95 Blazer questions / problems

hello I am new to the forum and very glad I found it thanks. I have a few questions / problems and one bit of information to pass on to the forum that I am having with my daughters '95 S10 blazer 4.3L CPI

1) This blazer has had problems with the EGR valve sticking with carbon deposits( 3 EGR's replaced and cleaned 4 times(after I found out you could clean the carbon deposits out) I saw in another post about the Tomco clean screen gasket. I contacted Tomco and they gave me the name of a distributor in the Dallas area( Tune-Up warehouse part no. 2-1357 $7.31) the gasket has a screen on the EGR intake that they say is guarantee to stop the large carbon deposits from sticking the valve and and presenting you with engine code 32 so if your having EGR problems you might want to try it.

2) It was starting fine until this last time the EGR valve stuck. after cleaning the EGR valve and replacing the gasket with the Tomco clean screen clearing the computer no more code 32 at this point but after doing this the engine does not start the same way that it did before. If you just turn the ignition on it wont start up I now have to slightly depress the gas pedal ( like it is not getting any fuel)and it fires right up does anyone have any ideas about this? injectors have recently been cleaned and fuel filter replaced.

3) I can not get the ABS dash light to go off there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brakes they have been checked and re-checked anything I can check to possibly eliminate the trouble light.

4) this is the most baffling problem. the plastic case that houses the blower motor and the evaporator along the passenger side firewall is disentigrating it breaks off in pieces and you can crumble the plastic in your hands over half of the entire case is now gone you just touch it and it falls apart the pieces that are left are being held together with foil tape. I took it to 3 chevrolet dealers in the Dallas area two of them said that they had never seen anything like that and they could only come up with some sort of chemical had been sprayed on it to cause it to deteriorate. the last dealer had two tech's that had been with GM for along time 20+ years and they said they had seen that condition three or four times but had no idea what causes it. we have owned this blazer since new and at no time were any chemicals sprayed in the engine compartment. since the housing has exposed the evaporator the ac no longer works as it once did. on the highway when you are running at speed( even on long trips) it cools fine no problem but when you get in stop and go traffic it will just stop cooling you can turn it off wait a few minutes turn it back on and it will work for a while and the you have to go through the same drill. the compressor has been checked the system is fully charged.

i am sorry this has been so long but I would appreciate any comments or help on these problems. thanks

HI
I have a 94 S10 4X4 w/ 116,00 mi when I bought it.
Became hard to start, crank for like 20-30 seconds and then cylinders would start to fire. Came to Autoforums and was told - Change the CPI unit.
I bought it NEW on Ebay $250.00 and had my mechanic install it for about $170.00. That fixed the hard starting. The guy told me the CPI's are only good for about 115,000-125,000 miles.
Now I found my Ignition Coil went, $ 16.00 @ auto zone and I'm gonna change my Ignition Module now - Misfires every once in a while.
Good Luck.
Timmy from Connecticut

For the egr valve issue... Run a can of seafoam through the system, run it out. Then remove and clean the EGR... Then use a screw driver to pick out as much of the carbon on the egr hole on the manifold itself as you can. Then run the engine for a minute or 2 and rev it several times up to 3000rpm... This will insure any loose carbon gets blown out of the manifold... Then take it to the dealer and get the latest flash for your ECM as one of the fixes addresses your issue..

For the hard starts, I would check the CPI unit just to be on the safe side. Pull the upper plenum and check for washing. Also check your fuel pressure after doing that. If you turn the ignition to the RUN position (don't start it) and it goes to the correct pressure (56-60) but then you have a rapid drop off, that will mean you have a faulty check valve in your fuel tank. This is not a critical issue, just annoying.

For the ABS issue, get the code scanned. Your brakes will always work fine regardless if the ABS is working or not, the abs system is not working at this point with that code on. More than likely one of your sensors are bad. Get the code scanned to see what's at fault.

Talked to a client this morning while reading this post. He's an HVAC tech (who also replaced my r134 with Hot Shot) and he says leaking freon over long period of time can cause the chemical changes in that type of abs plastic and cause it to become brittle. Most likely you have a leak in the evap. You definatly are low on freon by your description. The pressure is not there till higher RPM at higher speeds indicates this. At this point I would stop by anyone who does HVAC and have them wand the AC system and detect the leak. If your evap has to be replaced, grab one from a newer wreck and grab the housing. Hope this has helped somewhat

I have the same problem with my heater box. I have not replaced it yet. I am going to replace the EGR gasket later in week with a Tomco. Unplugged for now, after getting it to seat by hitting it with hammer.(not hard)
bill