4th Gen FAQ - If you are new, please read before posting

Could we please get this stickied. If everyone contributes to it with Frequently Asked Questions that would be cool. Please don't ask questions or take it off-topic.

I'll start with:

#1 It's VTEC, NOT V-tech, VTEK or any other varient :)

#2 Power is a derivitive of torque. anyone that says that one is more impotant than the other has no idea of what they are talking about.

You can easily convert torque to horsepower by multiplying torque by rpm/5,252.

When a graph ...points out is that any engine has a peak horsepower -- an rpm value at which the power available from the engine is at its maximum. An engine also has a peak torque at a specific rpm. You will often see this expressed in a brochure or a review in a magazine as "320 HP @ 6500 rpm, 290 lb-ft torque @ 5000 rpm" (the figures for the 1999 Shelby Series 1). When people say an engine has "lots of low-end torque," what they mean is that the peak torque occurs at a fairly low rpm value, like 2,000 or 3,000 rpm.

Another thing you can see from a car's horsepower curve is the place where the engine has maximum power. When you are trying to accelerate quickly, you want to try to keep the engine close to its maximum horsepower point on the curve. That is why you often downshift to accelerate -- by downshifting, you increase engine rpm, which typically moves you closer to the peak horsepower point on the curve. From HowStuffWorks

#3 If you can't find info here, please use the search engine as a lot of things will be easily available :)

#4 Please don't ask "how fast will my car go if..." because there are a lot more factors involved - mostly the idea that you suck as a driver :p

More to follow I guess :)

A Quick Engine List

Since everyone always asks, "which engine can i put in my 4g?" heres a small list.. feel free to add to it.

direct bolt in engines: (least performance to most performance)
D15B1 -70hp
D15B6 -70hp
D15Z1 - SOHC VTEC-E
D15B2 - DPI, 92HP
D15B7 - 92-95 DX/LX, MPFI 105hp
D16Y7 - 96-00 DX, "DPMPFI" 105hp (?)

direct bolt in performance engines:
D16A6 or SOHC ZC - 108hp, great upgrade from DX/LX engine. cheap.
JDM D15B - welcome to VTEC. nice peppy engine, 125-130hp
D16Z6 - quick, with bolt ons should be able to beat alot of other sport compacts, 125hp
D16y8 - same as D16Z6 but 127hp
DOHC ZC - quick, similar performance to SOHC VTEC but DOHC NON VTEC, aftermarket support not quite as great as SOHC VTEC, 130hp

B series swap (require motor mount kit, shift linkages, a few wiring changes may need to be made as well)
B18A1 - 130hp
B18B1 - 140hp the "LS" engines are great out of the box, even better for turbo applications, and can be found for very cheap. Base model "B" motor swap.
B16A - 160hp, the "popular" B motor. with a B16 swap, you should be eating up almost all V6, and taking a large bite out of stock V8s
B17A1 - same as B16A, slightly more torque
B18C1 - "GSR" 170hp. more torque than B16, overpriced IMHO
B18C5 - usdm Integra Type R 195hp, "king of the N/A streets"
JDM B18C - 200hp (?)
JDM B16B - 185hp Civic Type R engine, overpriced, but nice.
B20B/Z - 126-146hp, welcome to torque. These engines can be found for cheaper than most DOHC VTEC swaps, and should give about the same performance due to their high torque numbers.

H series swap (requires motor mount kit, shift linkages, and a large hammer to beat the crap out of the engine bay as these engines are huge)
H23A1 - 160hp 153tq. "B16 killer"
H22A1 - "MONSTER VTEC" 190-195hp, torque to boot. H22A should be used strictly for drag racing as it is known to be rather heavy.

There are many more engines which can be put into the 4g civic/2g CRX, but require modifications beyond motor mount bolt in kit.

Take your time when deciding on an engine swap, nobody should make the decision for you. Do a little research. Dont you think someone has asked "do you like this engine" before you?

FAQ sticky! great idea :bigthumb:


2nd gen CRX / 4th gen Civic Auto to Manual Conversion

link:

http://hometown.aol.com/jrmupzaii/auto2man.html

for DPFI to MPFI conversion info and most common engine swaps info can be found at www.4thgenerationcivic.com. swap info in engine section. MPFI info is in how-to section.

:bigthumb:

hmm, wut can i add.......

oh yea!

#1...... 4 x 100 is the bolt pattern for rims

#2...... for a gauge cluster swap... 88 - 89 are the same... 90 - 91 r the same and yes u can use the wagovan cluster

#3...... u can use 5w30 and 10w30 oil in ur car... honda recommends 5w30 tho

#4...... ECU Codes....

Code 1 (1 flash) Oxygen content

Code 3 or 5 Manifold absolute pressure

Code 4 (4 flashes) Crank angle sensor

Code 6 (6 flashes) Coolant temperature

Code 7 (7 flashes) Throttle angle

Code 8 (8 flashes) TDC position (top dead center) timing

Code 9 (9 flashes) No. 1 cylinder position (1.6L)

Code 10 (10 flashes) Intake air temperature

Code 12(12 flashes) No code 11 don't know why. Exhaust gas recirculation system

Code 13 (13 flashes) Atmospheric pressure

Code 14 (14 flashes) Electronic air control (EACV)

Code 15 (15 flashes) Ignition output signal

Code 16 (16 flashes) Fuel injector

Code 17 (17flashes) Vehicle speed sensor

Code 19 (19 flashes) No code 18 for some reason Lock up control solenoid valve

Code 20 (20 flashes) Electric Load

taken from http://www.4thgenerationcivic.com


#5...... Civic Hatch and CRX hoods are the same!


#6...... Sedan rear bumpers wont fit a hatch or CRX because they are too long

CRX WEIGHTS. HF=1850,SI=2150,DX=2080

fOR those of you that always start of by asking what the best mod you can do to your car.The best mod you could possibly do is get your car running straight.they are pertty old cars so start off by changing oil,plugs,pcv valve etc.Then you should start doing engine mods.

honda civic paint codes from 88-91

(courtesy of www.paintscratch.com)

1988
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/45666888pc.jpg

1989
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/85680189pc.jpg

1990
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/67817190pc.jpg

1991
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/17352191pc.jpg

If Your Car Won't Start Replace The Main Relay!

Surprised this wasn't mentioned.

not really a "FAQ", but useful for everyone

how to: headlight warning buzzer

http://www.torontocivics.com/articles/buzzer/buzzer.html



:cool:

tought this could be helpfull
got it form www.the12volt.com
1988-91 Honda Civic Security Information
Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Black/White Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Blue/White Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Blue Distributor
Brake Switch Green/White Brake Switch
Trunk Pin Green/Black (-) Harness from Dash INDICATOR
Parking Lights Red/Black Fuse Panel
Head Lamp Red/Blue Fuse Panel
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm n/a
Door Trigger Green/Red (-) Driver's Kick
Door Lock Green/White (-) In Driver's Door at Door Lock Module
Door Unlock Green/Red (-)
Horn Wire Blue/Red (-) Steering Column, use Relay







1988-91 Honda Civic Cruise Information
Constant 12V+ White Ignition Switch Harness or Use Hot Side of Brake
Switched 12V+ Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Ground Use Chassis Near Cruise Control Module
Hot Side of Brake n/a Brake Switch
Cold Side of Brake Green/White Brake Switch
Tach Blue Distributor
VSS Lead Yellow/Red Driver's Side Dash at Firewall,13 Pin Connector
Pulses Per Mile 4000 PPM

Notes: Vehicles with Manual Transmission require Clutch Switch. Some vehicles may require a speed signal generator and/or other parts/adapters not listed above. Rostra® Cruise module switch settings may differ if you use a speed signal generator or magnets and a pick up coil.












1988-91 Honda Civic Stereo Information
Constant 12V+ Blue/White
Switched 12V+ Yellow/Red
Ground Black
Illumination Red/Black
Dimmer n/a
Antenna Driver's Pillar
Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors
Left Front (+) Blue/Green
Left Front (-) Gray/Black
Right Front (+) Red/Green
Right Front (-) Brown/Black
Rear Speakers 6 1/2" Rear Deck
Left Rear (+) Blue/Yellow
Left Rear (-) Gray/White
Right Rear (+) Red/Yellow
Right Rear (-) Brown/White

If your car is having idle issues - too high when cold and hot or fluctuating, here's a checklist (this seems to be a popular problem):

3 things (4 if you've bent the idle screw).

#1 Check the vacume hoses to your manifold (unlikely).

#2 Fast Idle Valve will need replacing (located on the block).

#3 Get a new/second hand throttle body with the Throttle Position Sensor UNTOUCHED, as in having the original sealed screws in it. Do NOT buy it if it's been tampered with or reset.

Reset the ECU and drive away happy

It always seems to be these things

http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/manual.htm

you can view or download the service manual there.

Ok here is the easiest way to go about chaning your thermo stat. First locate your lower radiator hose. Fallow it(should lead to a spot under yoru intake maifold) Take the two bolts off on each side and pull the hose and "cap" back. Your thermostat should be right there. Pull it out and put in a new one, make sure you use a NEW thermostat gasket. They only run a couple of bucks, so don't risk having to do this over again. Now if your like me and don't have skinny arms and can't do jack with your left hand, I suggest putting some gasket sealer on the back of the gasket to hold it and the thermostat in white you bolt the cap back up. If you don't it will slide/fall out if not careful. Anyways, after letting the sealer settle bolt the cap back up and you are ready to go. Here is a copy of the page out of the book just so you know what you are looking for. http://www.binghamtonlife.com/manual/2gsm/images/91-10-6.jpg

Im a 4door enthusiast!!

Hatch or crx bumpers wont work on a sedan, so return the crx bodykit.

Even thought they look the same hatch/crx hoods wont work on a sedan.

Despit the fact that lx gauges and EX/SI gauges have a tach they arent the same at all so those white face gauges wont fit, ~learned from personal experience.

A CATBACK exhaust for a hatch/crx wont fit a 4dr unless you dont mind it being 1 foot shorter!!
The only place to get the 4dr CATBACK EXHAUST is ebay or www.stillen.com

Clear altezza lights wont work on a sedan! SO dont even try to buy them!! They are shorter in length and taller.

If you get a fender bender you best buy 4dr fenders if you want them to fit.

Well thats about it. THanks 4 door People. Enjoy!!

Thermal R&D also makes a catback for fourdoors :D

You can use EG springs and struts on the front of an EF, but you must use the EG upper wishbone as the struts run a slightly larger diameter. These bolt straight to the EF mounting point and the strut. The rubber cups at the top of the strut may need to have a slight internal trim to make the springs seat properly. Rear springs will swap too with no mods. This also is true of the later 'teg springs and EK4 struts and springs (although you must still use EG wishbones.

Looking for parts or sites to buy parts from at a cheap price? Check out this wholesale list posted a while ago by one of our members.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=69102&highlight=wholesale

Oh and to everyone, dont bring up posts from the grave that are over 3 weeks old. If its that important for an answer make a thread.

oh one thing the b18a1 from a 90-91 integra has 130hp while the b18a1 from a 92-93 integra has 140hp

for a list of recalls for our cars....

http://alldata.com/recalls/index.html

i've been told that we have a lifetime guarantee on the seatbelts in our cars

A Little Long but heres a way (for those that need it to) decipher their VIN #:

1983-97 HONDA V.I.N. DEFINED (Japan/USA):

1st POSITION NATION OF ORIGIN

J = Japan
1 = USA
2 = Canada

2nd POSITION MANUFACTURER

H = Honda

3rd POSITION VEHICLE TYPE

M = Passenger Car, Built in Japan G = Passenger Car, Built in USA/Canada

4th & 5th POSITION, 1983-86 BODY TYPE & ENGINE

ACCORD

AC = Accord, 1.6L
AD = Accord, 1.8L
BA = Accord, B
SZ = Accord, EK

PRELUDE

AB = Prelude
BB = Prelude Si

CIVIC

AE = 1300cc Coupe (CRX)
AF = 1500cc Coupe (CRX)
AG = 1300cc 3 door
AH = 1500cc 3 door
AK = 1500cc 4 door
AN = 1500cc Wagon
AR = 1500cc Wagon 4WD
SL = 1300cc 3 door
SR = 1500cc 3 door
ST = 1500cc 4 door
VN = Wagovan
WD = 1500cc 4 door Wagon

4th & 6th POSITION, 1987-97 BODY & ENGINE TYPE

ACCORD

CA5 = 2-Door Hatchback & 4-Door Sedan, 2.0L (87-89)
CA6 = 2-Door Coupe, 2.0L (88-89)
CB7 = 4-Door Sedan, 2.2L (90-93)
CB9 = Wagon, 2.2L (91-93)
CD5 = 4-Door Sedan, 2.2L (94-97)
CD7 = 2-Door Coupe, 2.2L (94-97)
CE1 = Wagon, 2.2L (94-97)
CE6 = Sedan V6

PRELUDE

BA4 = 2.0L & 2.05L (1987-91)
BA8 = 2.2L (1996)
BB1 = 2.2L VTEC (1992-96)
BB2 = 2.3L (1992-96)
BB6 = 2.2L (1997)

CIVIC

EC1 = CRX, 1.5L
EC2 = Hatchback, 1.3L
EC3 = Hatchback, 1.5L
EC4 = Sedan, 1.5L
EC5 = Wagon, 1.5L
EC6 = Wagon 4WD, 1.5L
ED3 = 4-Door, 1.5L
ED4 = 4-Door, 1.6L
ED6 = Hatchback, 1.5L
ED7 = Hatchback, 1.6L
ED8 = CRX, 1.5L
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
EE2 = Wagon, 1.5L
EE4 = Wagon 4WD, 1.6L
EG1 = del Sol, 1.5L 102HP
EG2 = del Sol, 1.6L 160HP
EG8 = 4-Door, 1.5L
EH2 = 2-Door, 1.5L
EH3 = 2-Door, 1.6L
EH6 = del Sol, 1.6L 125HP
EH9 = 4-Door, 1.6L
EJ1 = Coupe, 1.6L
EJ2 = Coupe, 1.5L
EJ6 = Coupe/Hatchback/Sedan, 1.6L
EJ7 = Coupe, 1.6L VTEC-2
EJ8 = Coupe/Sedan, 1.6L VTEC
EY1 = Wagovan, 1.5L
EY3 = Wagovan, 1.5L

6th POSITION, 1983-86 TRANSMISSION TYPE

3 = Auto
4 = 4-Speed Man
5 = 5-Speed Man
6 = 5-Speed Man Plus Super Low
7 = Auto

7th POSITION, 1987-97 BODY & TRANSMISSION TYPE

1 = 2-Door Conv, 5-Speed Man
1 = 2-Door Coupe, 5-Speed Man
2 = 2-Door Coupe, 4-Speed Auto
2 = 2-Door Coupe CVT
2 = 2-Door Conv, 5-Speed Man
2 = 2-Door Conv, 4-Speed Auto
3 = 2-Door Hatchback, Manual
3 = 2-Door Coupe, Manual
4 = 4-Door Sedan
4 = 2 Door Hatchback, 4-Speed Auto
4 = 2-Door Coupe, 4-Speed Auto
5 = Civic Wagon & Wagovan
5 = 4-Door Sedan, 5-Speed Man
6 = 4-Door Sedan, 4-Speed Auto
7 = 5-Door Sedan, 5-Speed Man
7 = 4-Door Wagon, 5-Speed Man
8 = 4 Door Wagon, 4-Speed Auto
8 = 5-Door Sedan, 4-Speed Auto

8th VEHICLE GRADE (MODEL & YEAR)

ACCORD (US)

0 = SE (Special Edition)
1 = DX w/ABS Coupe & Sedan (1994-97)
2 = DX w/o ABS Coupe & Sedan (1994-97)
2 = DX Hatchback & Sedan (1986-89)
2 = S, Std Hatchback & Sedan (1984-85)
2 = LX w/o ABS Wagon (1994-97)
3 = LX Hatchback & Sedan (1984-89)
3 = LX w/ABS Wagon (1994-97)
3 = LX w/o ABS Coupe & Sedan (1994-97)
3 = LX w/o ABS-V6 (1996-97)
4 = DX Coupe & Sedan (1990-93)
4 = LX w/ABS Coupe & Sedan (1994-97)
4 = LX w/ABS ABS-V6 (1995-97)
4 = LXi Hatchback & Sedan (1986-89)
5 = LX (1990-93)
5 = EX Coupe & Sedan (1994-97)
5 = EX V6
5 = SEi Hatchback & Sedan (1986-89)
6 = DX Passive Belt, Hatchback & Sedan (1986-89)
6 = EX (1990-91)
6 = EX (Leather) (1994-97)
6 = EXL-V6 (Leather) (1995)
7 = EX (1992-93)
7 = EXL-V6 (Leather) (1996-97)
7 = SE Coupe
8 = DXA (25th Anniversary Edition)
8 = LX Passive Belt, Hatchback & Sedan (1986-89)
9 = DXSV (Special Value)
9 = EX Wagon (1994-95)
9 = LXA Coupe & Sedan 10th Anniversary Edition (1993)

ACCORD (Canada)

0 = SE (Special Edition)
1 = LX Sedan (1994-96)
2 = EX Wagon (1994-96)
2 = LX w/ABS Sedan (1994-96)
2 = S (1984-86)
2 = EX Sedan (1994-96)
2, 7 = S, Limited, EX (1987-89)
3 = EX w/ABS Wagon (1994-96)
3 = EX Coupe & Sedan (1997)
3 = LX (1986-89)
3 = LX Coupe (1994-96)
3 = LX, EX (1984-85)
4 = EX w/ABS Sedan (1994-96)
4 = EXi (1986-89)
4 = LX Coupe & Sedan (1990-93)
4 = LX w/ABS (1994-96)
5 = EX Sedan & Wagon (1990-93)
5 = EX-R Wagon (1994-96)
5 = EX-R Sedan w/o Leather Seats(1994-97)
5 = SEi (1987-89)
6 = EX-R (1990-93)
6 = EX-R w/Leather (1994-97)
7 = EX-R w/ABS (1990-93)
8 = SE (1990-93)

CIVIC (1984-95)

1 = BA (1984)
1 = STD, HF (CRX) (1985-87)
2 = STD (1985-87), DX (1984-89)
2 = DX, EX Coupe (1994-95)
3 = GL (1984-87), Si (1984-86)
3 = EX Coupe w/ABS (1994-95)
3 = LX Sedan (1992-95)
4 = S del Sol
4 = DX Coupe (1993)
4 = DX Sedan (1994-95)
4 = CX Hatchback (1992)
4 = Si (1987)
4 = STD Hatchback (1988-92)
4 = DX Sedan (1988-93)
4 = LX w/ABS (1992-95) (Canada)
4 = Wagovan (1989)
5 = CX Hatchback (1993-95)
5 = DX Hatchback (1988-92)
5 = EX Coupe (1993-95)
5 = LX Sedan (1988-95)
5 = Si Coupe (1993) (Canada)
5 = Wagon (Standard) (1990-91)
5 = DX CRX (1990-91)
6 = DX Hatchback (1993-95)
6 = HF CRX (1990-91)
6 = Si CRX (1990-91)
6 = Si del Sol
6 = EX Sedan (1990-91)
6 = EX-S Coupe (1993-95)
6 = LX Sedan w/ABS (1992-95) (US)
6 = Si Hatchback (1990-91)
6 = Si del Sol
6 = Wagon 4WD (1988-91)
6 = VX Hatchback(1992)
7 = EX w/ABS
7 = EX-R (1990-92)
7 = VX Hatchback(1993-95)
7 = VTEC del Sol
8 = LX (Special)
8 = Si Hatchback
8 = EX-V 4-Door
9 = EX 4-Door
9 = EX-V 4-Door w/ABS
9 = VX Hatchback
9 = Si Hatchback w/ABS

CIVIC 2 Door Coupe (USA) (1996-97)

2 = DX, HX
3 = DX w/ABS, HX w/ABS
4 = DX w/A/C, HX w/A/C, EX
5 = DX w/ABS & A/C
5 = HX w/ABS & A/C
5 = EX w/ABS

CIVIC 2 Door Coupe (CANADA) (1996-97)

2 = DX, Si
3 = Si w/ABS
4 = DX w/ABS
5 = EX w/ABS
6 = DX w/ABS & A/C
7 = Si w/ABS & A/C

CIVIC 2 Door Hatchback (USA) (1996-97)

2 = CX
3 = CX w/A/C
4 = DX
5 = DX w/A/C
6 = DX w/ABS
7 = DX w/ABS & A/C

CIVIC 2 Door Hatchback (CANADA) (1996-97)

0 = CX
2 = CX-G

CIVIC 4 Door Sedan (USA) (1996-97)

0 = LX (1997)
2 = DX
3 = DX w/A/C
4 = DX w/ABS, EX
5 = DX w/ABS & A/C
6 = LX (1996)
7 = LX w/A/C
8 = LX w/ABS
9 = LX w/ABS & A/C

CIVIC 4 Door Sedan (CANADA) (1996-97)

0 = EX (1997)
3 = LX
4 = LX w/ABS
5 = LX w/ABS & A/C
6 = EX (1996)
7 = EX w/ABS
8 = EX w/ABS & A/C

CIVIC Del Sol (1996-97)

4 = S
6 = Si
7 = Si w/ABS, VTEC

PRELUDE (1983-86)

2 = DX Model
3 = Si Model

PRELUDE (1997)

4 = Base Model
5 = SH Model

8th ENGINE TYPE PRELUDE

1987

2 = 1800 DX
4 = 2000 Si

1988-89

2 = 2.0 S
3 = 2.0 Si
4 = 2.0 Si 4WS option

1990-91

1 = 2.0 S
2 = 2.0 Si
3 = 2.05 Si
4 = 2.05 Si 4WS option

8th GRADE & RESTRAINT SYSTEM PRELUDE 1992-96

4 = 2.2 w/Seat Belt & Air Bag
5 = 2.3 Si/SR w/Seat Belt & Air Bag
6 = 2.3 Si/SR 4WS w/Seat Belt & Dual Air Bag
7 = Si-VT/SR-V w/Seat Belt & Dual Air Bag
7 = 2.2 SR; Si VTEC w/Seat Belt & Dual Air Bag

9th POSITION CHECK DIGIT

10th POSITION MODEL YEAR

D = 1983
E = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
V = 1997

11th POSITION ASSEMBLY PLANT

A = Marysville, Ohio, USA
C = Sayama, Japan
H = Alliston, Canada
H = Ontario, Canada
L = East Liberty, Ohio, USA
S = Suzuka, Japan
4 = SIA, USA

12th Thru 17th POSITION PRODUCTION SEQUENCE NUMBER

Addition to T-Mo's post. This applies to Japanese export vehicles to the US only. Japanese Domestic Market vehicles merely use the designation eg: EF9, EF8, EF2 etc plus the production serial number with no other VIN identifiers.

A lot of T-Mo's info applies to Aussie Civics as well (yes, a few Aussies use these forums), but don't take it as gospel as we have a slightly different system. As I recollect, my old GL Hatch started JHMED6-serial and the Si (DOHC) CRX was JHMED9-serial. Can any Aussie confirm the latter please?

(I'm just adding this is as I get a lot of Q's about people following USDM manuals etc and getting confused because we don't have quite the same cars).

Nice post T-Mo :)

taken from this thread - http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=303625

REPROGRAMMING MSD RPM PILLS

Various ignition systems and accessories are often configured to do certain things at a particular RPM level. These devices may be used to set a rev limit, a stage limit, trigger a shift-light, or even activate a nitrous system. The popular systems made by MSD utilize external replaceable modules called "pills" to select that point based on a pre-determined resistance value. The following pictures detail how to disassemble and reassemble an MSD RPM pill, thus allowing that point to be modified as desired. This is especially useful if your application requires a non-standard set point or it's 10pm the night before the drags and you don't happen to have the required pill handy. Even a potentiometer works wonders in a jam!
Refer to the chart below to select the proper resistor value. For most applications it's not essential to have the exact resistor listed and you may choose to adjust the value up or down slightly to fit your needs. If you're familiar with resistors, you can easily combine them to create virtually any value you require.

RPM Ohms
100 10.8
200 10.9
300 11
400 11.1
500 11.7
600 101
700 191
800 274
900 354
1000 432
1100 506
1200 580
1300 653
1400 724
1500 795
1600 867
1700 937
1800 1010
1900 1081
2000 1152
2100 1224
2200 1297
2300 1370
2400 1444
2500 1518
2600 1592
2700 1668
2800 1744
2900 1820
3000 1896
3100 1978
3200 2049
3300 2132
3400 2215
3500 2288
3600 2373
3700 2460
3800 2534
3900 2622
4000 2710
4100 2787
4200 2877
4300 2969
4400 3048
4500 3141
4600 3235
4700 3316
4800 3412
4900 3509
5000 3592
5100 3691
5200 3791
5300 3877
5400 3979
5500 4082
5600 4171
5700 4277
5800 4383
5900 4475
6000 4584
6100 4693
6200 4788
6300 4901
6400 5014
6500 5112
6600 5232
6700 5349
6800 5449
6900 5569
7000 5689
7100 5793
7200 5919
7300 6043
7400 6150
7500 6277
7600 6406
7700 6517
7800 6649
7900 6782
8000 6897
8100 7034
8200 7171
8300 7291
8400 7432
8500 7575
8600 7699
8700 7845
8800 7994
8900 8122
9000 8274
9100 8428
9200 8561
9300 8719
9400 8879
9500 9018
9600 9182
9700 9348
9800 9491
9900 9662
10000 9834






Notes:
All resistors are 1/4W rated. To enable the switch at all times, 0 ohms/shorting wire may be used. *Values below 500 RPM are not consistent, nor recommended and this range would typically be impractical.
Here's a graph of the resistance versus RPM:
http://members.aol.com/blownf1/Image1.gif

I highly recommend using precision metal film resistors (like the quality ones used by MSD) and not the typical carbon ones found at places like Radio Shack. In a pinch they'll probably do, but the carbon based type are far more sensitive to heat/humidity and as a result their resistance can change, sometimes by a huge percentage. If you're mounting the RPM switch inside the interior of the car, it's probably not as big of a deal, but just be sure to do some of your own testing to verify proper operation under normal conditions.

Here's a typical MSD RPM Pill:
http://members.aol.com/blownf1/Image2.jpg


Here's one with the label removed by simply lifting an edge and peeling it back. There may also be a small amount of hot melt type glue underneath that you can easily pull out with a pair of tweezers.
http://members.aol.com/blownf1/Image3.jpg

There are a couple methods of removing the internal resistor. You can use a de-soldering tool (i.e. a solder sucker) and remove all the solder from the end of each hollow post, or if you don't have one of those available, you can simply heat one post at a time and gently pull the resistor lead out a little bit, then switch to the other lead, and repeat as necessary (see photo series below). If you use the latter method, you'll have to do the same in reverse to install the new resistor. The de-soldering method is much better and far quicker/easier, but either will work just fine.
http://members.aol.com/blownf1/Image4.jpg
http://members.aol.com/blownf1/Image5.jpg
http://members.aol.com/blownf1/Image6.jpg

Here's all the guts…there's not much to it!
http://members.aol.com/blownf1/Image7.jpg

Select your new resistor value, or the closest one available. Gently bend the leads at 90 degree angles, trim both to approximately 3/4", and place back into the holder. Re-solder by heating the post and flowing solder into it.
http://members.aol.com/blownf1/Image8.jpg

Viola! Ready for testing.
http://members.aol.com/blownf1/Image9.jpg

If you just need a standard value, can't locate the proper resistor, or simply don't have the required skills or equipment to do this, you can visit MSD's web site for information on obtaining plug-n-play pills by clicking here: www.msdignition.com

NO WARRANTY IS EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.
WHILE EVERY EFFORT HAS BEEN TAKEN TO ENSURE THE ACCURACY OF THE INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN THIS DOCUMENT, IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY TO VERIFY THE USEFULLNESS AND SUITABILITY FOR YOUR PARTICULAR APPLICATION PRIOR TO USE.
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The side vents from the hatchback dash will fit on the crx dash or vis versa.

heres some more great info.

Someone is allways asking "what came in what with what ECU", so I figured I would throw this up to help out.



ECU


PG6 : 88-89 Integra (all makes)
PM5 : 88-91 Civic/CRX DX
PM6 : 88-91 Civic/CRX SOHC Si
PM7 : 89-91 DOHC ZC (JDM 'EF' ECU)
PM8 : 88-91 CRX HF
PM9 : 88-91 Civic STD
PR2 : 89-91 ZC (Euro)
PR3 : 89-91 JDM B16A EF8/9
PR3 -J00 or J51 : 92 JDM Integra B16A EF8/9
PW0 : 89-91 JDM B16A EF8/9 DA6-XSi
PR4 : 90-91 Integra LS/GS
PS9 : 88-91 4 door Civic EX Auto
P05 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic CX
P06 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic DX
P07 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic VX
P08 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic D15 JDM
P0A : 94-95 OBD-1 Accord EX
P13 : 93-95 OBD-1 Prelude Vtec
P14 : 93-95 OBD-1 Prelude Si (non Vtec)
P27 : 92-95 OBD-1 EG JDM Civic 1600 sohc
P28 : 92-95 OBD-1 Civic Si/Ex
P30 : 92-95 OBD-1 DelSol DOHC Vtec Si/EG SiR
P54-G31 : 1997 Honda Accord 1.8 LS
P61 : 92-93 OBD-1 Integra GSR
P72 : 94-95 OBD-1 Integra GSR
P72 : 96-00 OBD-2 Integra GSR
P73 : 96-00 OBD-2 Integra Type-R (JDM & USDM)
P74/75: 92-95 OBD-1 Integra LS/GS
P75 : 96-00 OBD-2 Integra LS/GS
P2N : 96+ OBD-2 Civic HX Coupe
P2P : 96+ OBD-2 Civic EX Coupe
P2E : 96+ OBD-2 Civic DX Coupe
P2M : 96+ OBD-2 NZ Civic SOHC VTEC
P2T : 99+ OBD-? Civic Si Coupe
P5P : 97-00 OBD-2 Prelude Type-S (JDM ECU)
PBA : 97+ US Acura 1.6EL
PCT : 98+ JDM ITR / CTR
PCX : 99+ OBD-? S2000


Engine

EW4 1.4L & 1.5L SOHC PGM-Fi '84-'87 Civic 60-92hp
D15B 1.5L SOHC non-VTEC '88-'95 Civic's 62-102hp
D16A1 1.6 L DOHC 86-89 Integra 86/87 113hp 88/89 118hp
D16A6 1.6L SOHC 88-91 Civic Si/ CRX Si 108hp
ZC JDM equivalent of D16A1 130hp
D16Z6 1.6L SOHC VTEC 92-95 Civic EX/Si 125hp
D16Y5 1.6L SOHC VTEC-E 96-00 Civic HX 115hp
D16Y7 1.6L SOHC non-VTEC 96+ Civic CX/DX/LX 106hp
D16Y8 1.6L SOHC VTEC 96+ Civic EX 127hp
B16A 1.6L JDM DOHC VTEC 89-91 Civic Si-R I/CRX Si-R, Integra RSi/XSi 160hp
B16A2/3 1.6L USDM DOHC VTEC 93-97 DelSol VTEC/99-00 Civic Si 160hp
B16A 1.6L JDM DOHC VTEC 92-95 Civic Si-R II/ 92-97 CRX DelSol SiR 170hp
B16B 1.6L JDM DOHC VTEC 98+ Civic Type R 185hp
D17A2 1.7L SOHC VTEC-E 01 Civic EX 127hp
D17A1 1.7L SOHC non-VTEC '01+ Civic DX/LX 115hp
B17A1 1.7L USDM DOHC VTEC 92-93 Integra GS-R 160hp
B18A1 1.8L USDM DOHC non-VTEC 90-93 Integra RS/LS/GS 90-91: 130hp / 92-93: 140hp
B18B1 1.8L USDM DOHC non-VTEC 94-01 Integra RS/LS/GS 140hp
B18C 1.8L JDM DOHC VTEC 94+ Integra SiR-G 180hp
B18C1 1.8L USDM DOHC VTEC 94+ Integra GS-R 170hp
B18C5 1.8L USDM DOHC VTEC 97+ Integra Type R 195hp
B18C6/7 1.8L JDM DOHC VTEC 96+ Integra Type R 200hp
B20A5 2.0L DOHC non-VTEC 87-91 Prelude 2.0Si 135hp
B20B 2.0L DOHC non-VTEC 96-98 CR-V 126hp
B20Z 2.0L DOHC non-VTEC 99-01 CR-V 143hp
B21A1 2.1L DOHC non-VTEC 90-91 Prelude Si 145hp
K20A3 2.0L DOHC i-VTEC '02+ RSX '02+ Civic Si 160hp
K20A2 2.0L DOHC i-VTEC 02+ RSX Type S 02+ Civic TypeR 200hp
K20A 2.0L JDM DOHC i-VTEC '02+ Integra Type R 220hp
F20A1 2.0L JDM DOHC non-VTEC 90-93 Accord Si 155hp
F20B 2.0L JDM DOHC VTEC 90-93 Accord Si-R 190hp
F20C1 2.0L DOHC VTEC '00+ S2000 250ps/240hp
F22A1 2.2L USDM non-VTEC 92-96 Prelude S 90-93 Accord LX/EX 130hp-135hp
F22B 2.2L USDM SOHC VTEC 94-97 Accord EX/97 2.2CL 145hp
F23A5 2.3L USDM SOHC 98+ Accord DX 135hp
F23A1 2.3L USDM SOHC VTEC 98+ Accord EX & LX/98-99 2.3CL 150hp
F23A4 2.3L USDM SOHC ULEV VTEC 98+ Accord EX & LX 148hp
H22A1 2.2L USDM DOHC VTEC 92-96 Prelude VTEC 190hp
H22A4 2.2L DOHC VTEC 97-01 Prelude VTEC/SH 97-98: 195hp 99-01: 200hp
H22A 2.2L JDM DOHC VTEC 92+ Prelude Type-S, 97+ Prelude SiRS Spec 220hp
H23A1 2.3L USDM DOHC non-VTEC Prelude Si 160hp
G25A1 2.5L USDM SOHC non-VTEC 96-98 2.5TL 176hp
J25A 2.5L JDM SOHC VTEC V6 JDM Honda Aspire/Sabre 200hp
C27?? 2.7L USDM SOHC non-VTEC V6 86-89 Legend 150-160hp
C27?? 2.7L USDM SOHC non-VTEC V6 95-97 Accord V6 170hp
C30A(?) 3.0L DOHC VTEC V6 91-96 NSX/NSX-T 270hp
J30A1 3.0L USDM SOHC VTEC V6 98-02 Accord V6/97-99 3.2CL 200hp
C32A6 3.2L USDM SOHC non-VTEC V6 91-95 Legend Sdn, 91-92 Legend Cpe 96-98 3.2TL 200hp
C32A5 3.2L USDM SOHC non-VTEC V6 94-95 Legend GS Sdn, 93-95 Legend Cpe 230hp
C32A? 3.2L DOHC VTEC- V6 97+ NSX/NSX-T 290hp
J32A1 3.2L USDM SOHC VTEC V6 98+ 3.2TL/3.2CL 225hp
J32A2 3.2L USDM SOHC VTEC V6 00+ 3.2CL Type-S, 01 3.2TL Type-S 260hp
C35A2 3.5L USDM SOHC non-VTEC V6 3.5RL 215-225hp
J35A1 3.5L USDM SOHC VTEC V6 98+ Odyessy 210hp
J35A3 3.5L USDM SOHC VTEC V6 Acura MDX 240hp

WOW i feel welcome.

thank you ladynred for that site, i was wondering about the mini me in my 88 civic. i only have one ? just to see if i got this right. i can use the si ECU, i don't need to change it? just have to make a v-tec controler?

So you have an EF/ED. Chances are that it is slow as fuck, especially if you ended up with a DX, LX, STD or some other long-geared, gas-saving, dual point model. So this guide is here to help you decide how you want to make faster without the aid of forced induction (well, you can go that route too but its not covered). If you are a newbie read EVERYTHING here. That way you will spend less time asking questions on message boards. Also, I didn’t feel like reiterating everything in every specific motor section so read at least the first few before you scroll down to the motor you want to get.

B-series.
These are by far the most popular swaps. They are fairly easy for the average joe to do and are pretty fast right out of the box (errr…clip). But in doing a b-series swap you WILL need to do some things in order for this swap to work:
-Get some mounts. Hasports, Place Racing, HCP, and some others make them as well.
-You have to either find EF SiR shift linkage or you can shorten 90-93 integra shift linkage by 2-3/8” . I do the latter because DA linkage is easy to find and its cheap. I also always shorten it in the straightest portion possible. The 3rd option is to get some adjustable shift linkage From Hasport or Place Racing.
-You need (maybe not NEED) a tranny that has a Cable actuated clutch. This will be covered on a case by case basis in the motor portion of this guide.
-If you have a Dual-Point car you will NEED to convert it to Multi-Point. If you are going the VTEC route you will need to wire the VTEC stuff in all EFs no matter the trim level.
-MPFI wiring: http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/4gtech/dx-zc-wiring.htm-VTEC wiring; wires to add if using PR3/PW0:
o Pin A8 – VTEC solenoid.
o Pin B5 – VTEC oil pressure switch (plug with 2 wires, Black is ground)
o Pin B19 – Knock sensor.
o Pin C8 – Second oxygen sensor
-Get some 90-93 integra axles, JDM EF SiR axles (good luck finding them if they didn’t come with your swap) or get custom ones. You need to have a 90-93 teg intermediate shaft with the teg axles and an SiR int shaft with the SiR axles. If you get customs ones ask the manufacturer of the axles which intermediate shaft you should use.
-If using 90-93 axles, take out the dust rings on your knuckles. Also take off the dust rings on the axles. It sucks but you pretty much need the clearance for the axles. Try to stay out of the dirt.
-You need a 90-93 integra throttle cable (except if you are going JRSC, then you can use the stock one).
-You need to make a large dent in the frame rail right below the shock tower (right under the rectangular hole). This dent clears the alternator pulley. NOTE: if you’re putting a JRSC in this dent will NEED to be further forward and a lot deeper. Trust me. Experience talking. We pulled the motor a few times messing with this.
-Your stock exhaust probably wont bolt up (if it does you are lucky). If you are using a stock exhaust manifold on the b-series then you can use you stock D-series down pipe on the b-series manifold. But what you really should do is get rid of the stock manifold, buy a header, and get some 2.25” exhaust made at a muffler shop. Or you could buy an aftermarket cat-back exhaust and get it modified to fit. Either way you WILL want to get rid of that 1.5” crush bent stock crap and the stock header/downpipe.

ECU pin outs are here: http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/ECU_Pin_Outs.xls
I know this sounds like a lot of stuff but it really isn’t when you get down to it.

D-series.
Your car comes stock with a d-series engine. These bolt right in with out mount kits. You can use your stock shift linkage, axles, mounts, and even the tranny if you want (you’ll want to find an Si one).

H-series.
You are on your own. Few people have done it and some say it's not worth the effort, unless its going into an 88 CRX Hf (1819lbs stock) and even then it would be a huge pain. If you want an H-series buy an early low-model EG hatch. Your time will be better spent and the cars aren’t all that much heavier than a low model EF. If you are learning a lot by what you are reading right now this is NOT the swap for you.

On with the engines.

B-series VTEC motors:

Engine: 1988-1991 JDM B16A
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Hp/Torque: 160hp@7600rpm/112lb-ft@7000rpm
Transmission: JDM S1, J1, Y1, A1 (cable)
OBD: 0
ECU: integra motor - PR3, civic motor - PW0. But the motor can be run with a PR4 and an RPM switch or a PS9 with DaveB’s wonderful one-wire VTEC chip (PM6’s can be converted too).

This is one of the easiest B-series swaps to do (and the most common). You can get full swaps for $1200-1600 depending on where you get it from and if you get any special stuff with it (like, for instance the LSD tranny which is a GREAT thing to get). If you can, try to get a motor from an EF SiR. That way you get the axles and shift linkage that were made for your car. It goes in like butta. But if you get an integra motor those are ok too. The shift linkage will need to be shortened and the axles will work. The car will need to be wired for only VTEC if you have an Si, Hf, or EX. If you have an LX, DX, STD or another dual point car I forgot then the car will have to be wired for multipoint as well.

For Multipoint wiring go here: http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/4gtech/dx-zc-wiring.htm I printed that out and have used it every time I wired a DPFI car. Its invaluable. For VTEC wiring I just make my own harness from other harnesses I have laying around (or from the one that came with the swap). I run a plug from the ECU to the passenger side plug holder (there is already a spot for it!) and then run the other side of the plug to all the VTEC sensors.

With the motor, the tranny supplied is great. The only problem with b16 trannies is the 3rd gear grinds. They are tough to find without.

Stock B16 EF’s typically run high 14s to low 15s down the drag strip. Pretty damn good for a 1.6 liter.

Engine: 1992-up JDM B16A
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.4:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Hp/Torque: 170hp@7800rpm/116lb-ft@7300
Transmission: Y21, S4C (hydraulic)
OBD: 1
ECU: P30

This is the same motor as above but out of a 92-95 civic SIR (with higher compression), so the motor will be, of course, newer. These go for $1500-$2000. The problems are with the OBD1 and the hydraulic clutch trannies and because of these problems they really aren’t a great choice for our generation civics.

The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 and this motor is OBD1. Almost all of the wiring is different. So you can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD1 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 1 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box.

The other option is to convert your whole car to OBD1. There is a lot of work involved. Heres a link: http://www.geocities.com/kurtsi_on/page7.html

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. I’m pretty sure the Hasport one is out now so you can check out their site www.hasport.com.

The easier path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.

Engine: 1993-1995 USDM B16A2/3
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Hp/Torque: 160hp@7600rpm/112lb-ft@7000
Transmission: Y21 (hydraulic)
OBD: 1
ECU: P30

This motor came out of the 94-95 Del Sol VTECs and is the same as above but with lower compression and weaker fuel/ignition maps in the ECU.

Engine: 1996-1997 & 1999-2000 USDM B16A
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Hp/Torque: 160hp@7600rpm/112lb-ft@7000
Transmission: S4C (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: 99-00 – P2T

The 96-97 motors came out of DelSol VTECs, and the 99-00 motors came from Civic Si’s. These are going to be expensive if you can find one. The same stuff from the OBD1 motor applies.

The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 (or non-OBD if you are anal) and this motor is OBD2. All of the wiring is different. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can use the OBD 2 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box.

You’re not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. If you really want to convert the car to a different OBD, go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that’s not as hard as going from OBD1 – 0 or OBD 2 - 0.

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. I’m pretty sure the Hasport one is out now so you can check out their site www.hasport.com .

The easier path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.

Engine: 1992-1993 USDM B17A1
Displacement: 1678cc
Compression Ratio: 9.7:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.68
Hp/Torque: 160hp@7600rpm/117lb-ft@7000
Transmission: YS1 (short geared cable)
OBD: 1
ECU: P61 (pretty much a P30)

This motor came ONLY in 92-93 integra GS-R’s. It is essentially a stroked B16 with low compression. The B17 and B16 blocks are the same in all aspects except the block stamp. The difference is in the crank, rods, and pistons (lower comp). The b17 cams are also better than the 88-97 b16 cams. These are great motors but are a tad hard to find and the price varies a ton. If you can, try and get one with a stock GS-R tranny. It is one of the shortest geared ones out there and it’s a cable tranny(!). Unfortunately they only came in OBD1 so again you have some choices

The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 and this motor is OBD1. Almost all of the wiring is different. So you can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD1 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 1 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box. If you get a PW0 or PR3 I would suggest getting it chipped for the displacement increased. This is of course not as good as dyno tuning but it helps.

The other option is to convert your whole car to OBD1. There is a lot of work involved. Here’s a link: http://www.geocities.com/kurtsi_on/page7.html

Engine: 1994-1995 USDM B18C1
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.0:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 170hp@7600rpm/128lb-ft@6200
Transmission: Y80 (hydraulic)
OBD: 1
ECU: P72

This motor is out of a 94-95 GS-R. It does not share too many components with the B16. It has, among other things, a different head (p72 as opposed to pr3), more aggressive cams, and a taller block. It also has a “Dual Runner” intake manifold. But like most the others this motor is OBD1 and hydro tranny equipped. Expect to pay around $3200 for the whole swap.

The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 (or non-OBD if you are anal) and this motor is OBD1. Almost all of the wiring is different. So you can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD1 plugs on your OBD0 harness). If you go this route you will have to get rid of the dual runner intake manifold by buying a skunk2 manifold. The OBD0 VTEC ECUs don’t support the dual runners. Again, you can utilize the OBD 1 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box. If you get a PW0 or PR3 I would suggest getting it chipped for the displacement increased. This is of course not as good as dyno tuning but it helps.

The other option is to convert your whole car to OBD1. There is a lot of work involved. Heres a link: http://www.geocities.com/kurtsi_on/page7.html

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. I’m pretty sure the Hasport one is out now so you can check out their site www.hasport.com .

The easier path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.

Engine: 1996-up USDM B18C1
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.0:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 170hp@7600rpm/128lb-ft@6200
Transmission: Y80 (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: P72

This is the OBD2 version of the above motor and it came in 96-01 GS-R’s. Other than the wiring it is the same as above. Expect to pay around $3000-$4000 for the whole swap.

The OBD problem:
Your car is OBD0 and this motor is OBD2. All of the wiring is different. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor, getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). If you go this route you will have to get rid of the dual runner intake manifold by buying a skunk2 manifold. The OBD0 VTEC ECUs don’t support the dual runners. Again, you can utilize the OBD 2 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box. If you get a PW0 or PR3 I would suggest getting it chipped for the displacement increased. This is of course not as good as dyno tuning but it helps.

You’re not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. If you really want to convert the car to a different OBD, go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that’s not as hard as going from OBD1 – 0 or OBD 2 - 0.

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport now makes a mount kit with hydro-cable conversion pieces and the special hydro tranny mount. Check out their site www.hasport.com.

The other path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.

Engine: 1996-up JDM B18C
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 180hp@7600rpm/129lb-ft@6200
Transmission: Y80, S80 (hydraulic/optional LSD)
OBD: 2
ECU: P72

Same motor as the 96+ USDM motor but with higher compression and an optional LSD tranny. These motors are probably easier to find than the USDM motors because you can get them from one of the many engine importers. Expect to pay around $3200 for the whole swap. Other than that see the USDM 96+ B18C listing above.

Engine: 1997-up JDM B16B
Displacement: 1595cc
Compression Ratio: 10.8:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.77
Hp/Torque: 185hp@8200rpm/118lb-ft@7500
Transmission: S80 w/ LSD (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: PCT

The B16B is a one of a kind Honda 1.6liter. It came from the JDM Civic Type R and shares a block with the Integra Type R B18C5 but has a shorter stoke and longer rods giving it that rev-happy 1.77 rod stroke ratio (highest of all the B-series motors). B16B’s also have more aggressive cams than even the B18C5/R motors. These motors are fairly rare and very rarely swapped into anything. This is probably because they go for around $3800 (whole swap). That’s $600 more than the JDM B18C1 which has only 5hp less and 10lb-ft more torque (at lower RPM, too).

The OBD problem:
This motor is OBD2. All of the wiring is different. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor (OBD0 B18a dist will work with modification), getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 2 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box.

You’re not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. If you really want to convert the car to a different OBD, go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that’s not as hard as going from OBD1 – 0 or OBD 2 - 0.

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. There are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport now makes a mount kit with hydro-cable conversion pieces and the special hydro tranny mount. Check out their site www.hasport.com .

The other path is to sell the hydro tranny (which go for quite a bit more than cable trannies) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one.

Engine: 1997-up USDM B18C5
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 195hp@8000rpm/130lb-ft@7500rpm
Transmission: S80 w/ LSD (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: P73

Out of 97+ Integra Type Rs this motor is Honda’s king-dingaling 1.8 liter. It features larger cams/better valve train than the B18C1, factory polished PR3 Head (different than the B18C1’s P72), short/fat single runner intake manifold, 14lb flywheel (4 lbs lighter than all the other B-series motors), and a very short geared LSD tranny. These swaps typically run $4300-$4700 depending on where you get it.

The OBD problem:
This motor is OBD2. All of the wiring is different. You can convert the motor to obd0 by installing a 1g b16 distributor (OBD0 B18a dist will work with modification), getting an OBD0 VTEC ECU, and getting a whole bunch of OBD0 sensors (or putting OBD2 plugs on your OBD0 harness). You can utilize the OBD 2 injectors if you don’t use an injector resistor box. These injectors are no bigger than normal b-series injectors.

You’re probably not going to want to convert the car to OBD2. If you really want to convert the car to a different OBD, go to OBD1. Then you will still have to convert the motor to OBD 1 but that’s not as hard as going from OBD1 – 0 or OBD 2 - 0. This motor does, however, run very well on its native OBD2.

The tranny problem:
Your car uses a Cable actuated clutch. The tranny is meant to go in a car with a hydraulic actuated clutch. However, there are kits available to use the hydro trannies in cable cars. Hasport now makes a mount kit with hydro-cable conversion pieces and the special hydro tranny mount (get it; ITR trannies are the best stock b-series tranny). Check out their site www.hasport.com .

The other path is to sell the hydro tranny (ITR trannies go for a LOT) and buy a B16 cable tranny. Expect to pay around $300 for a non LSD one and about $600 if you can find an LSD one (get an LSD one at the very least).

Engine: 1995-up JDM B18C-R
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 11.0:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: 200hp@8000rpm/135lb-ft@7500rpm
Transmission: S80 w/ LSD (hydraulic)
OBD: 2
ECU: P73

This motor is the same as the USDM B18C5 but with higher compression. See above.

Engine: Poorman’s Type R
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: ?
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.58
Hp/Torque: ?
Transmission: ?
OBD: ?
ECU: ?

This motor is a B18C1 block (94+ GSR) with a b16 head. Some people buy B16 swaps, drive them for a while then swap the B16 block out for a B18C1 one. This is a pretty good alternative to the B18C in EFs because you can get an LSD equipped B16 for $1400 then a B18c block for around $700-$1k and then you already have all the OBD0 stuff. Also, this motor gives you the ability to build/rebuild the block slowly while still driving your swapped car. Unfortunately B18C short blocks are hard to find and go quick when you do find them.

It is recommended to get some higher compression pistons and a better valve train/cams. Might as well, right?

Engine: LS/VTEC CR/VTEC
Displacement: 1834cc - 1973cc and up
Compression Ratio: ?
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54 (this stays the same)
Hp/Torque: ?
Transmission: ?
OBD: ?
ECU: ?

In these you essentially take a non-vtec block like the b18a/b or the b20b/z and put a VTEC head on. The idea is to take the low end torque of the non-vtec motors and combine it with the high rpm power of the VTEC motors. People do it and succeed in making a lot of power but a lot of people do it and just end up with a blown motor. These motors range from “stock” LS/VTECs where someone slaps a stock head on a stock non-vtec block (this is dumb), to fully built monsters.

The main reason a lot of people don’t like them (me included) is because of the low rod/stroke ratios inherent in the non-vtec blocks. This low r/s ratio stresses the bottom end a bunch. If you’ll notice, Honda reduced the stroke from the B18A/B to the B18C. Now if the B18C is supposed to be a more performance oriented motor why didn’t they keep the displacement? For the better r/s ratio.

Another reason is that the non-vtec blocks don’t come with some of the features that the VTEC blocks. These include oil squirters, block girdles (on the B18C’s), and a very balanced bottom end.

The upside to this is that they have the potential to make a large amount of power. Its up to you. I am not going to say anymore because there are SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO many threads on message boards all over the internet.

For info: Search on www.honda-tech.com or www.g2ic.com or one of the many others.
Links:
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69114
http://www.lsvtec.org/
http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/engine/6.html
http://www.indysol.com/resource/lsvtec.html

B-Series NON-VTEC motors:

Engine: 1990-1991 USDM B18A1
Displacement: 1834cc
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 130hp@6000rpm/121lb-ft@5000rpm
Transmission: S1, Y1, YS1, A1 (91 only) (cable)
OBD: 0
ECU: PR4

The B18A1 is out of 90-91 integras. This is one of the easiest swaps out there especially if you have an Si, Hf, or an EX. If you don’t, then you need to wire for multi-point. That’s it.

These motors are readily available as well. People often swap motors into their 90-91 integras so they have these pretty-much-complete swaps just laying around. You cant find them at engine importers but quite a few people sell them on www.g2ic.com and you could probably find a few at junkyards. I picked up a whole swap minus wiring harness and axles for $500. Cant beat that with a stick, eh? The downside to this is mileage on the motors and the fact that some people swap motors in their integras because the stock B18A is going out the door.

Performance is good. I had a B18a in my civic for a few months and it was a good motor. Great for daily driving and just enough torque for the tight autocrosses we occasionally have. I took it to the drag strip once and netted a 15.1 @ 91mph in two runs at 2240ft above sea level.

Engine: 1992-1993 USDM B18A1
Displacement: 1834cc
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 140hp@6300rpm/121lb-ft@5200rpm
Transmission: USDM YS1 (cable)
OBD: 1
ECU: OBD1 PR4

This B18A1 is out of 92-93 non-GSR integras. It is the same motor as the 90-91 B18A but with slightly larger cams and a (supposedly) better flowing intake manifold. These usually go for a few bucks more than the 90-91 motors.

This motor is OBD1 so you will have to either rewire your car or convert the motor to OBD0. I would suggest converting the motor. Its pretty cheap and very easy to do. You will need a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the only plug from the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to find one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them for $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. That’s all. Cake.

Engine: 1994-Up USDM B18B1
Displacement: 1834cc
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 142hp@6300rpm/127lb-ft@5200rpm
Transmission: USDM S80 (hydraulic, long gears)
OBD: 1 or 2
ECU: P75

The B18B1 comes from 94+ non-GSR integras. This motor differs from the 92-93 motor in that it has a different head casting (P75 as opposed to PR4), ever so slightly larger cams, a (again, supposedly) better flowing intake manifold, and a little more aggressive ECU tuning. The motors are also obviously newer than any of the other non-VTEC B18s and are most likely in better shape.

For 94-95 this motor was OBD1 and for 96+ it was OBD2. Either way it is easy to convert them to OBD0 by getting a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the only plug from the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to find one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them for $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. Its up to you.

Engine: 1996-1998 USDM B20B
Displacement: 1973cc
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 126hp@5400rpm/133lb-ft@4300rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
ECU: Don’t know/care. You wont use it.

These are from 97-98 CRV’s. Don’t be fooled by the low hp/tq rating, these motors came with the crappiest intake manifolds and exhaust manifolds known to man. If you do this swap you wont use either as the intake manifold wont fit in your car (its called the giraffe for a reason) and you will get a different header (even a stock integra manifold is WAY better). The USDM B20B is essentially a B18B1 with 84mm sleves/pistons. Everything else is the same: head, cams, crank, rods, etc. So you can think of it as a bored, low compression B18a/b.

For this motor you will want to get just a long block because the tranny, wiring, ECU, and even the intake and exhaust manifolds are not needed (some long blocks may come with them, though). Because of this it is wise to get a whole B18A swap and sell the B18. That way you wont have to search around for a whole bunch of parts that you didn’t anticipate needing. Trust me.

Intake manifold: You can use them from any non-vtec B18, a B20Z, or you can buy a skunk2 mani. I would suggest a B18B or skunk2 one. The skunk2 IM because it is supposedly the “mod to get” for the B20s, and the B18B IM because it is the best flowing of the B18 bunch. If you get a B18 or B20 IM then try and get it complete (fuel rail, injectors, TB and the like). I will cover the B20Z IM in the B20Z section.

Exhaust manifold: Get a header. If you want to be cheap you can use a stock integra one.

Tranny: Any B-series cable tranny will work. If you really want to use a hydro tranny or have one laying around get Hasport’s mount kit for hydro trannies.

Wiring: You will have to convert the motor to OBD0. You do this by getting a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU and putting them in your car. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the only plug from the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to find one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them for $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. Its up to you.

Engine: 1999-2000 USDM B20Z
Displacement: 1973cc
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: 146hp@6200rpm/133lb-ft@4500rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
ECU: Don’t know/care. You wont use it.

This is the high compression version of the USDM B20B. It came out of 99-00 CRV’s and is the king of all the non-vtec B-series motors. It comes with an intake cam that is .3mm larger in lift, a shorter/better intake manifold, and of course higher compression.

For this motor you will want to get just a long block because the tranny, wiring, ECU, and exhaust manifold is not needed. Because of this it is wise to get a whole B18A swap and sell the B18. That way you wont have to search around for a whole bunch of parts that you didn’t anticipate needing. Trust me.

Intake manifold: With this motor you can use the stock one. But you cannot use the chamber on top because it doesn’t clear the hood (I’ve tried it). Without that chamber there is a big gaping hole in the top of the IM and you, quite obviously, don’t want that. What I did was make a plug out of UHMW plastic on the lathe to the same size as the chamber inlet and then put the chamber inlet rubber seal on my plug. It works well and I haven’t had any vacuum leaks.

If you want to use the B20z throttle body (its 60mm as opposed to the 90-93 TB which is 58mm) then you either have to use the stock throttle cable bracket and mounting position (its straight up and down, it sucks). The better alternative (IMO) is to make a bracket that bolts onto the unused threaded holes that look to be in the same location as the throttle cable bracket on B18 IM’s. The holes aren’t in the same position and that is why you need to make a bracket. My bracket is out of 1/8” steel. It bolts to those holes and a stock B18 bracket bolts to my bracket. If you go this route you will need to use a throttle plate pulley (the throttle cable pulls on this to open the throttle) from a 90-93 integra.

If you want to use the stock CRV injectors you can. But I didn’t know the size of them and they were significantly physically smaller than my B18 injectors, so I used the B18 ones. These are taller than the B20 injectors. To make them fit I put one B18A (d16a6 ones will work too) fuel rail spacer under each of the 3 fuel rail studs on the B20 mani (between the stud and the IM, they do not fit between the rail and the stud). I had to put a drill through the all of the spacer’s holes so they would fit over the stud’s threads.

If you insist on not using the stock IM you can use one from any non-vtec B18 or you can buy a skunk2 mani. If you are going to use a B18 one and you don’t already have one, get the B18B IM because it is the best flowing of the b18 bunch. If you get a B18 IM try and get it complete (fuel rail, injectors, TB and the like).

Exhaust manifold: Get a header. If you want to be cheap you can use a stock integra one.

Tranny: Any B-series cable tranny will work. If you really want to use a hydro tranny or have one laying around get hasport’s mount kit for hydro trannies.

Wiring: You will have to convert the motor to OBD0. You do this by getting a 90-91 B18a distributor and ECU and putting them in your car. For the injectors you have to wire them without an injector resistor box. And the only plug from the OBD1 harness you cant use with ease is going to be the distributor plug. So you will need to find one and may have to buy an entire engine harness (I get them for $35 at the junkyard, not a big deal). Or you could use the OBD1/2 plugs and put them on your OBD0 dist. Its up to you.

A comparison between the B20B and Z with dyno charts exists and is at http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/b20/b20dyno.html

I have this motor in my car now and it rules. It is happy going fast anywhere above 3k and putts around town with no problem at 1500-3k. It also kicks major ass at auto-x events. The power is great, even for the long auto-x events we often have on the road course (80+ mph straights). I went to the drag strip and pulled a 14.42@95 on my first of 3 runs at 2240ft on a 100deg F day. I must say that this motor is WAY more fun than the B18A ever was. Oh yeah, and I’m getting 34 miles to the gallon on a chipped ECU when I drive sane.

Engine: 1995 or so-2000 JDM B20B
Displacement: 1973cc
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1, 9.2:1, 9.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.54
Hp/Torque: up to146hp@6200rpm/133lb-ft@4500rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 2
ECU: Don’t know/care. You wont use it.

These motors are a mixed bag. Who knows what you’re going to get when you buy your long block from an importer. There is no real concrete information available that accurately maps out which motor came from which years/cars. So I will attempt you tell you and at the very least tell you how to identify your motor (hopefully without taking the head off).

In general the 95 – 98 motors are the 8.8:1 compression motors and are exactly like the USDM B20B. They have the tall intake manifold and no knock sensor on the back of the block. If there is no knock sensor then you have an 8.8:1 compression motor. If you want to take off the head you will find the letters P3F on the top of the slightly dished piston.

Most of the 99-2000 motors are of the 9.6:1 compression variety and are just like the USDM B20Z. These motors have the short intake manifold with the chamber on top and a knock sensor. If you have a knock sensor on the back of the block, the motor is most likely has 9.6:1 compression. The pistons are almost flat and have a PHK designation.

I have read that the 9.2:1 motors exist but I have seen no proof. I don’t know what they are out of or what the identifying marks are. My guess is that if you get one it will be mistaken for a 9.6:1 motor. If you have any info on this please let me know.

If you got a motor with the tall manifold see the USDM B20B section. If yours came with a short manifold see the USDM B20Z section.

Expect to pay $700-$800 for a long block.

Engine: Up to 1991 USDM B20A/B21A
Displacement: 1958cc or 2056cc
Compression Ratio: 9.0:1 or 9.4:1
Rod/stroke ratio: lower than 1.54
Hp/Torque: 104hp@5800rpm/111lb-ft@4000rpm to140hp@5800rpm/135lb-ft@5000rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: Don’t know/care.

These came from 88-91 preludes (maybe others too). These engines are not worth swapping into your civic. Don’t be fooled by the price of them. They are regarded as the worst of all the Honda engines and aren’t even included in b20 discussions. They get their displacement increase by a very long stroke (95mm as opposed to the B18A’s already long 89mm). This means that they have to use short rods. That means a low rod/stroke ratio which puts a lot of stress on the bottom end components (cyl walls, rods, etc.).


D-Series: Some general D16 info here >> http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=385741

Engine: 1988 to 1991 USDM D16A6
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.1:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: 108hp@6000rpm/100lb-ft@5000rpm
Transmission: Si L3
OBD: 0
ECU: PM6 (PS9 if auto EX)

This engine came in 88-91 CRX Si’s, 89-91 Civic Si’s, and 90-91 Civic EX’s. So if you are swapping this motor then you probably have a Dual-Point motor in there now. This swap is the easiest of all motor swaps into the EF chassis. Pull old motor out, wire for multi-point and slide the new motor in. Easy. The only extra part you need is a 90-93 integra or CRX/Civic Si throttle cable.

These motors can be had for very cheap. A buddy of mine picked one up for $75 with 108K miles on it. We put it in an 88 four door DX and it ran high 15’s.

Engine: 1986 to 1989 USDM D16A1/3
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1 or 9.5:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: up to 118hp@6800rpm/103lb-ft@5700rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: PG6

These motors are out of 86-89 integras. They don’t fit in the EF chassis without mounts and no one makes mounts for them. I have also read that the tranny doesn’t bolt up to any other D-Series motors. Also the DOHC head does not fit on any of the other SOHC blocks. So don’t get one of these for your EF.

Engine: Up to 1991 ZC
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.3:1 or 9.5:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: up to 129hp@6800rpm/108lb-ft@5700rpm
Transmission: ?
OBD: 0
ECU: PM7

These motors came from a whole bunch of different cars in Japan (3g civics/crxs, 4g civics/crxs, 5g civics, and 1 and 2g integras). They came in a few different variations: carbed & pgmfi, SOHC and DOHC. They also came in a few cars in Europe but the motor was called the D16A8/9 and came with a PM2 ECU. Here is a site for identifying the ZC: http://www.geocities.com/teampimports/zcfiles/wzc.htm If it is down here is the main part I wanted you to read:

“The engine code will either state zc if it is a Japanese model or d16a8 if it is European model.
The second gen dohc zc will have a black valve cover with the bolts on the sides, and the Honda h at the exhaust side of the cover. There is a oil to water cooler on the back of the block. Motor mounts are identical to an 88-91 civic or crx's.”

If you get the right one, these motors bolt in with no problems at all. The swap is just like the D16A6 swap. You need a 90-93 integra or CRX/Civic Si throttle cable, then you need to wire for multi-point. That’s all. These motors can be run with a variety of ECU’s including (but probably not limited to) the PG7, PM7, PM6, PM2 (I’ve never ever seen one, not even on the internet), and PR4 (OBD0). Expect to pay around $500 for a ZC long block (about the same as a 1g B16A long block, crazy eh?).

If anyone has more ZC info please let me know.

Engine: 1992 to 1995 USDM D16Z6
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: up to 125hp@6600rpm/106lb-ft@5200rpm
Transmission: Something Hydraulic
OBD: 1
ECU: P28

The SOHC VTEC D16Z6 came from 92-95 civic Si’s and EX’s. This is a fairly common swap because Z6’s can be had for fairly cheap. I have seen them go for as little as $200 and as much as $500 (tranny may or may not be included, but you don’t need it anyway). The only problems are with the hydro tranny (if you get it) and the OBD1.

The hydro tranny isn’t of much use to us 4g swap folks because it is a large pain to make work. The best solution is to find an EF Si tranny and be done with it. Any D-series tranny will work, like say the ever so common DX tranny (wanna buy one? I have 3), but the Si tranny has a lower final drive (same gears) than the DX one. Shorter gears are your friend. Just stay away from the 4 speed at all costs.

As far as the OBD goes you have 2 options. You can make it easy on yourself and stay OBD0 or you can convert the car to OBD1. If you stay OBD0 its going to be a little ghetto and there is no way around it. Going OBD1 at least has the potential to not be ghetto but some people still make it ghetto. Either way, take your time.

For OBD0 you first off need a D16A6 distributor. No, you cant use your D15B2 dual-point one. The A6 dist fits on the head but you can only secure it with 2 of the 3 bolts. One lines right up and the other two don’t but fortunately one of those two is close enough to use. I suppose you could cut the mounting ears off and weld them on in the right location but that is a lot of work and I haven’t seen it done yet. Then you need a way to make VTEC work. There are a variety of ways to do this. MSD makes an RPM activated switch you can use (shift lights also contain one of these and I have seen people use them), you can get a VAFC, you can run a PR3 or PW0 ECU (have to add another o2 sensor or get the ECU chipped to remove BOTH o2 sensors), or you can find a PS9 ECU and get it chipped with a 1 wire vtec program (one of the best ways IMO). Here is a link to a Z6 swap writeup: http://www.geocities.com/chacofgs/swap.html

If you go for the gusto and decide to convert everything to OBD1 then you will need to get a P28 ECU and then do a bunch of wiring. Here is a link to a really good write-up on the Z6 swap and OBD1 conversion: http://www.geocities.com/kurtsi_on/page7.html

Engine: 1996 to 2000 USDM D16Y8
Displacement: 1590cc
Compression Ratio: 9.6:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52
Hp/Torque: 127hp@6600rpm/107lb-ft@5500rpm
Transmission: Something Hydraulic
OBD: 2
ECU: P2P

This motor comes out of 96-2000 civic EXs. The block is essentially the same as the a6 and z6 blocks, but the head is a lot different. It has been said that the z6 head flows better than the y8 head at high rpm. This is due to the port shapes and sizes. There have been many threads on many message boards debating which one is better. Here is a link to one: http://pub143.ezboard.com/fhondadseriesfrm6.showMessageRange?topicID=672.top ic&start=21&stop=34 . Also the y8 manifold has shorter, fatter runners and a larger plenum than any of the other d-series manifolds. It has been called the “ITR manifold for the D-series.”

If you are not going for all out power then the head difference doesn’t really matter. This motor has higher compression and a slightly larger cam than the Z6 and so even though the Z6 head is “better,” stock for stock they are about the same as far as moving your car. The Y8 head does have 1 advantage over the Z6 head for us EF OBD0 d00ds. The A6 distributor bolts right up with no modification so there is less ghettoness with this swap than with the z6. Other than the A6 dist you will need a way to activate VTEC which can be done a few different ways. MSD makes an RPM activated switch you can use (shift lights also contain one of these and I have seen people use them), you can get a VAFC, you can run a PR3 or PW0 ECU (have to add another o2 sensor or get the ECU chipped to remove BOTH o2 sensors), or you can find a PS9 ECU and get it chipped with a 1 wire vtec program (one of the best ways IMO).

If you want to go OBD1 follow the link in the Z6 section. I have read that there are a few OBD1 distributors that bolt onto the y8 head (like the CX one) so that shouldn’t really be a problem.

Then you need to get a D series cable tranny. The hydro tranny isn’t of much use to us EF swap folks because it is a pain to make work. The best solution is to find an EF Si tranny and be done with it. Any D-series tranny will work, like say the ever so common DX tranny (wanna buy one? I have 3), but the Si tranny has a lower final drive (same gears) than the DX one. Shorter gears are your friend. Just stay away from the 4 speed at all costs.

Engine: mini-me
Displacement: ~1493 - ~1590cc
Compression Ratio: ?
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.52 or 1.59
Hp/Torque: ?
Transmission: ?
OBD: probably 0
ECU: ?

This motor is the “LS/VTEC” for the D family. You take a D15 or D16 block and put a Z6 or Y8 head on there. There is, however, a whole lot less risk in building these than there is with the LS/VTECs because of the price and because most of the d16s (the ones you would use) come with essentially the same block (and therefore the same or even HIGHER rod/stroke ratio). If you use a d16 you will end up with a r/s ratio of 1.52 if you use the D15 block you end up with a r/s ratio of 1.59.

The usual, normal guy, good running mini-me consists of:
D16 or D15 block
Z6 head
Y8 intake manifold
B18A throttle body (2mm bigger than the Z6 and Y8 manis and 3mm larger than the A6 one)
PM6 and RPM switch (PS9 1 wire vtec is made for the D vtec swaps and is sooooooooooo much better than any rpm switch)

CR info (not calculated by me):
d16a6 block, d16z6 head: 10.4:1 (Head has 34.6cc combustion chamber volume)
d16a6 block, d16y8 head: 11.2:1 (Head has 32.8cc combustion chamber volume)
d15b2 block, d16z6 head: 10.6:1 (Head has 34.6cc combustion chamber volume)

Here are some mini-me links:
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/z6swap/z6swap.html
http://www.geocities.com/chipman_13/mini-me-parts.html http://www.geocities.com/c_rexboy/minime.html

Z6 vs Y8 head comparo:
http://pub143.ezboard.com/fhondadseriesfrm6.showMessageRange?topicID=672.top ic&start=21&stop=34

Pulled from ef-honda.com

decided to add some more info...kinda redundant but there's new info in it

take in mind that this is just USDM and that the ##-## is the years

Honda Civic 1.2 2Dr/3Dr
Engine: EB_ Chassis: SB_ 73-79
Honda Civic 1.3 3Dr
Engine: EJ1 Chassis: SL___ 80-83
Honda Civic 1.3 Hybrid 4Dr
Engine: LDA1 Chassis: ES9_6 03-04
Honda Civic 1.3 Std. 3dr
Engine: EV1,D13 Chassis: AG_,EC2 84-87
Honda Civic 1.5 2Dr/3Dr
Engine: ED_ Chassis: SG_ 75-79
Honda Civic 1.5 3Dr/4Dr
Engine: EM1 Chassis: SR_,ST_ 80-83
Honda Civic 1.5 CX 3dr
Engine: D15B/Z8 Chassis: : EH23_ 92-95
Honda Civic 1.5 DX 2dr
Engine: D15B7 Chassis: EJ2__ 93-95
Honda Civic 1.5 DX 3dr
Engine: EW1,D15 Chassis: AH_,EC3 84-87
Honda Civic 1.5 DX 3dr
Engine: D15B2 Chassis: ED6_5 88-91
Honda Civic 1.5 DX 3dr
Engine: D15B7 Chassis: EH2__ 92-95
Honda Civic 1.5 DX 4dr
Engine: D15B7 Chassis: EG8_4 92-95
Honda Civic 1.5 DX/LX 4dr
Engine: D15B2 Chassis: ED3__ 88-91
Honda Civic 1.5 GL 4dr
Engine: EW1,D15 Chassis: AK_,EC4 84-87
Honda Civic 1.5 LX 4dr
Engine: D15B7 Chassis: EG8__ 92-95
Honda Civic 1.5 S 3dr
Engine: EW1 Chassis: AH533 84-85
Honda Civic 1.5 Si 3Dr
Engine: EW4,D15 Chassis: AH5,EC3 86-87
Honda Civic 1.5 Std. 3dr
Engine: D15B1 Chassis: ED634 88-91
Honda Civic 1.5 VX 3Dr
Engine: D15Z1 Chassis: EH23_ 92-95
Honda Civic 1.5 Wagon
Engine: ED_ Chassis: WB_ 75-79
Honda Civic 1.5 Wagon
Engine: EM1 Chassis: WD_,VG_ 80-83
Honda Civic 1.5 Wagon 2WD
Engine: EW1,D15 84-87
Honda Civic 1.5 Wagon 2WD
Engine: D15B2 Chassis: EE2,EY3 88-91
Honda Civic 1.5 Wagon 4WD
Engine: EW1,D15 Chassis: AR_,EC6 85-87
Honda Civic 1.6 CX/DX 3dr
Engine: D16Y7 Chassis: EJ6__ 96-00
Honda Civic 1.6 DX 2dr
Engine: D16Y7 Chassis: EJ6_2 96-00
Honda Civic 1.6 DX 4dr
Engine: D16Y7 Chassis: EJ6_2 96-00
Honda Civic 1.6 EX 2dr
Engine: D16Y8 Chassis: EJ8__ 96-00
Honda Civic 1.6 EX 4Dr
Engine: D16A6 Chassis: ED4_6 90-91
Honda Civic 1.6 EX 4dr
Engine: D16Z6 Chassis: EH9_9 92-95
Honda Civic 1.6 EX 4dr
Engine: D16Y8 Chassis: EJ8_4 96-00
Honda Civic 1.6 GX CNGeng.
Engine: D16B5 Chassis: EN164 98-00
Honda Civic 1.6 HX 2Dr
Engine: D16Y5 Chassis: EJ7__ 96-00
Honda Civic 1.6 LX 4dr
Engine: D16Y7 Chassis: EJ6__ 96-00
Honda Civic 1.6 Si 2Dr
Engine: B16A2 Chassis: EM115 99-00
Honda Civic 1.6 Si 3Dr
Engine: D16A6 Chassis: ED736 89-91
Honda Civic 1.6 Si 3Dr
Engine: D16Z6 Chassis: EH33_ 92-95
Honda Civic 1.6 Wagon 4WD
Engine: D16A6 Chassis: EE4__ 88-91
Honda Civic 1.6EX/EX-S 2dr
Engine: D16Z6 Chassis: EJ1__ 93-95
Honda Civic 1.7 DX/LX 2dr
Engine: D17A1 Chassis: EM2__ 01-04
Honda Civic 1.7 DX/LX 4dr
Engine: D17A1 Chassis: ES1__ 01-04
Honda Civic 1.7 EX 2dr
Engine: D17A2 Chassis: EM2__ 01-04
Honda Civic 1.7 EX 4dr
Engine: D17A2 Chassis: ES2__ 01-04
Honda Civic 1.7 GX CNGeng.
Engine: D17A7 Chassis: EN26_ 01-04
Honda Civic 1.7 HX 2Dr
Engine: D17A6 Chassis: EM2_7 01-04
Honda Civic 2.0 Si 3Dr
Engine: K20A3 Chassis: EP33_ 02-03

Honda CRX 1.3 DX
Engine: EV1 Chassis: AE532 84-84
Honda CRX 1.5 DX
Engine: EW1,D15 Chassis: AF_,EC1 84-87
Honda CRX 1.5 DX
Engine: D15B2 Chassis: ED8__ 88-91
Honda CRX 1.5 HF
Engine: EW1,D15 Chassis: AF_,EC1 85-87
Honda CRX 1.5 HF
Engine: D15B6 Chassis: ED836 88-91
Honda CRX 1.5 Si
Engine: EW_,D15 Chassis: AF_,EC1 85-87
Honda CRX 1.6 Si
Engine: D16A6 Chassis: ED936 88-91

Honda Del Sol 1.5 S
Engine: D15B7 Chassis: EG1_4 93-95
Honda Del Sol 1.6 S
Engine: D16Y7 Chassis: EH6_4 96-97
Honda Del Sol 1.6 Si SOHC
Engine: D16Z6 Chassis: EH6_6 93-95
Honda Del Sol 1.6 Si SOHC
Engine: D16Y8 Chassis: EH6_6 96-97
Honda Del Sol V-TEC DOHC
Engine: B16A3 Chassis: EG217 94-95
Honda Del Sol V-TEC DOHC
Engine: B16A2 Chassis: EG217 96-97

Honda Prelude 1.8
Engine: EK1 Chassis: SN___ 79-82
Honda Prelude 1.8 (carb)
Engine: 1.8 Chassis: AB_,BA6 83-87
Honda Prelude 2.0 S (carb)
Engine: B20A3 Chassis: BA4__ 88-90
Honda Prelude 2.0 Si
Engine: B20A5 Chassis: BA4__ 88-91
Honda Prelude 2.0 Si (F/I)
Engine: BT,A20A Chassis: BB_,BA3 85-87
Honda Prelude 2.05 Si
Engine: B21A1 Chassis: BA4__ 90-91
Honda Prelude 2.2 (exc.SH)
Engine: H22A4 Chassis: BB6_4 97-01
Honda Prelude 2.2 S SOHC
Engine: F22A1 Chassis: BA8__ 92-96
Honda Prelude 2.2 Si V-TEC
Engine: H22A1 Chassis: BB117 93-96
Honda Prelude 2.2 Type-SH
Engine: H22A4 Chassis: BB615 97-01
Honda Prelude 2.3 Si/SE
Engine: H23A1 Chassis: BB2__ 92-96

Honda S2000 2.0
Engine: F20C1 Chassis: AP114


this is all i could find as far as JDM and EDM

4G (1988-1991)
EF1 D13B JDM All Civic ?
EF2 D15B JDM All Civic ? / CR-X
EF3 n/a JDM All Civic ? / CR-X Si (ZC DOHC)
EF6 D15B JDM All Civic ? / CR-X
EF7 n/a JDM All Civic ? / CR-X Si (ZC DOHC)
EF8 B16A JDM All Civic ? / CR-X
EF9 B16A JDM All Civic ? / CR-X

5G (1992-1995)
EG1 D15B JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG2 B16A JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG3 D13B JDM All 3-door/4-door
EG4 D15B JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG5 n/a JDM All ? (ZC DOHC)
EG6 B16A JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG7 D13B JDM All 3-door/4-door
EG8 D15B JDM All 3-door/4-door/CR-X
EG9 B16A JDM All 3-door/4-door/del Sol CR-X
EH1 n/a JDM All 4-door/4WD (ZC DOHC)

6G (1996-2000)
EJ1 D16A JDM All 2-door
EJ3 n/a JDM All 2-door / 4WD
EK2 D13B JDM All 3-door/4-door
EK3 D15B JDM All 3-door/4-door
EK4 B16A JDM All 3-door/4-door
EK5 D16A JDM All 4-door 4WD/LEV
EK8 D16A JDM All 4-door 4WD/LEV
EK9 B16B JDM All 3-door Type-R

7G (2001+)
? K20C1 JDM All 3-door Type-R

http://www.albeedigital.com/supercoupe/articles/0-60times.html

0-60 and 1/4 mile times for factory stock cars
(looks like just he higher models)

Acura

1997 Acura 2.2CL 8.9 16.7
2002 Acura 3.2CL Type S 6.8 15.0
1996 Acura 3.2TL 8.1 16.4
1999 Acura 3.2TL 7.4 15.7
2002 Acura 3.2TL Type S 6.2 14.8
2003 Acura 3.2CL Type-S 6.5 14.9
1986 Acura Integra RS 9.3 17.0
1986 Acura Integra LS 8.8 16.5
1989 Acura Integra LS 9.3 17.1
1990 Acura Integra 3-Dr GS 9.2 16.8
1990 Acura Integra GS 8.9 16.6
1992 Acura Integra GS-R 6.8 15.4
1993 Acura Integra GS-R 6.5 15.2
1994 Acura Integra GS-R 7.1 15.5
1994 Acura Integra LS 7.6 16.0
1996 Acura Integra GS-R 7.1 15.5
1996 Acura Integra SE 7.9 16.1
1997 Acura Integra Type R 6.5 14.7
1986 Acura Legend 8.1 16.2
1986 Acura Legend Sedan 8.1 16.4
1987 Acura Legend Coupe L 7.7 16.0
1988 Acura Legend Coupe L 9.6 17.2
1990 Acura Legend Coupe 9.0 17.0
1991 Acura Legend Coupe 8.8 16.7
1991 Acura Legend LS 7.9 16.1
1991 Acura Legend Sedan 8.3 16.2
1991 Acura Legend Sedan LS 8.1 16.1
1992 Acura Legend LS 7.9 16.1
1993 Acura Legend Coupe 7.5 15.9
1993 Acura Legend Coupe LS 7.3 15.7
1993 Acura Legend LS 6.7 15.4
1991 Acura NSX 5.8 14.4
1992 Acura NSX 5.6 13.9
1993 Acura NSX 5.6 13.9
1994 Acura NSX 5.3 13.6
1996 Acura NSX 5.2 13.8
1996 Acura NSX-T 5.8 14.3
1997 Acura NSX-T 4.8 13.3
2002 Acura NSX 4.8 13.4
2002 Acura RSX Type S 6.1 14.8
2003 Acura RSX Type S 6.7 15.1
1996 Acura SLX Premium Pkg. 11.1 18.1
2004 Acura TL 6.3 14.8
2004 Acura TL 6 speed 6.0 14.44
2004 Acura TL A Spec 5.7 14.25
2004 Acura TSX 7.5 15.9 (est)
1992 Acura Vigor GS 8.6 16.6
1992 Acura Vigor LS 8.7 16.7

Honda

1976 Honda Accord 13.8 20.0
1981 Honda Accord 13.4 N/A
1982 Honda Accord LX 13.0 18.0
1986 Honda Accord LXi 9.8 17.3
1990 Honda Accord EX 10.0 17.2
1991 Honda Accord EX Wagon 9.4 17.0
1992 Honda Accord EX 9.8 17.4
1993 Honda Accord LX 10.1 17.6
1994 Honda Accord EX 9.3 17.1
1994 Honda Accord EX Coupe 9.2 16.9
1995 Honda Accord LX 8.5 16.5
1995 Honda Accord LX V-6 9.1 17.1
1996 Honda Accord EX V-6 8.8 16.8
1998 Honda Accord LX 7.8 16.1
1999 Honda Accord Coupe LX V-6 7.4 15.8
2001 Honda Accord LX V-6 8.3 16.6
2003 Honda Accord EX V-6 Coupe 6.2 14.5
2004 Honda Accord EX Sedan V-6 5 Speed 7.0 15.5
2004 Honda Accord EX Coupe V-6 6 Speed 5.9 14.5
2003 Honda Accord Sedan (I-4) 8.0 16.0
1973 Honda Civic 19.3 23.6
1974 Honda Civic 15.7 18.5
1976 Honda Civic 14.3 18.8
1980 Honda Civic 1500GL 11.2 18.1
1981 Honda Civic 15.1 N/A
1985 Honda Civic Wagon 11.9 18.5
1985 Honda Civic S 11.1 18.2
1987 Honda Civic Hatchback 13.6 19.3
1991 Honda Civic EX Sedan 9.7 17.2
1992 Honda Civic EX Sedan 9.4 17.0
1992 Honda Civic Si 8.5 16.4
1992 Honda Civic Si Hatchback 8.4 16.5
1993 Honda Civic Coupe EX 8.4 16.5
1993 Honda Civic del Sol Si 8.8 16.8
1994 Honda Civic del Sol VTEC 7.4 15.8
1994 Honda Civic EX Sedan 8.8 16.8
1995 Honda Civic EX 8.8 16.8
1996 Honda Civic Coupe HX 9.4 17.1
1996 Honda Civic EX Sedan 10.5 17.6
1996 Honda Civic LX Sedan 9.4 17.2
1998 Honda Civic GX (CNG.) 11.9 18.1
1999 Honda Civic Si 7.2 15.7
2000 Honda Civic EX Coupe 8.4 16.7
1984 Honda (Civic) CRX 10.1 17.6
1986 Honda (Civic) CRX Si 8.7 16.7
1988 Honda CRX Si 8.2 16.4
1991 Honda CRX Si 8.7 16.5
1995 Honda Odyssey EX 10.3 18.3
1980 Honda Prelude 11.5 N/A
1983 Honda Prelude 9.7 17.2
1984 Honda Prelude 9.7 17.2
1988 Honda Prelude 2.0 Si 4ws 9.3 16.8
1988 Honda Prelude Si 4WS 9.1 17.1
1992 Honda Prelude Si 4WS 7.8 15.9
1994 Honda Prelude VTEC 7.2 15.1
1995 Honda Prelude VTEC 6.7 15.1
1999 Honda Prelude 6.8 15.4
2000 Honda Prelude 6.8 15.4
2003 Honda Pilot EX 8.1 16.3
2004 Honda Pilot 7.6 15.9
2000 Honda S2000 5.5 14.2
2003 Honda S2000 6.3 14.9 (Manual)

how to calculate shift points and other info.

http://www.slowgt.com/Calc1.htm

How to time a DOHC ZC (D16A8, D16A9)

First remove the crank pulley, belt cover, and valve cover.

The Cam Gears
Look at the valve train and look at the cam towers closest to the cam gears. You will see a hole in the top of each, this hole lines with a hole in the cam itself. With 2 5mm punches, drill bits, or 2 4.5mm allen wrenches. Put them in the holes holding the cams to their tdc posistion, timing will be on 100%.
http://home.comcast.net/~techno_destructo/towerholes.jpg


The Crank Gear
Look at the crank gear, there is a line that is on it that indicates tdc. Now looking at the gear look up and right and you will see an arrow cast into the oil pump. If you line the line on the gear with the arrow you are at almost exactly tdc.
http://www.thezcr.com/gallery/data/500/timing-3.jpg

Putting the Belt on
I start at the exhaust cam gear(A) going to the crank gear(B) , then go around the other intake cam gear ,down to the water pump bring both side around on the crank pulley. You may have to adjust the crank gear a little to get it perfect. Tighten the belt tensioner.
http://www.thezcr.com/gallery/data/500/timing-1.jpg

put everything back on and you should be on time everytime. I have found this to be the fastest way to get the timing right. The lines on the stock cam gears should have the twuo up arrows obviously up and the two lines on the inner side of the gears should line up even with the head surface
http://www.thezcr.com/gallery/data/500/timing-2.jpg

can someone help me wit the dpfi swap to mpfi

What movie did that come from?????????

If Your Car Won't Start Replace The Main Relay!

Where "not start" means "cranks but doesn't fire" and may be intermittent, such as only hot days. An easy test is some starting fluid. If it then runs briefly, always suspect the main relay.

You can fix the relay or replace it. If you buy another, still fix the old one.

The hard part is finding it. It is NOT under the CRX's dash. It is directly above the hood release, mounted on the side of the car. Get help from a skilled yoga practitioner. Unbolt & drop the hood latch handle to get up to it.

This link (http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainrelay.html) and many others Google will find cover more details.

To fix it, you need good electronic soldering skills and tools. Don't let Joey who pours lead in a body shop near it.