Bike question.

I've got a question about choosing a bicycle. When I do decide to ride a bike, I usually use an old mountain bike that was given to me by my brother who never used it - but since practically all unpaved roads, and a majority of the trails where I live have been paved over, or no longer exist, and I ride almost entirely on pavement now I was thinking about getting a road bike or at least something better for use on pavement.
My question is this, mountain bikes are geared lower than road going bikes to go up steep hills, and steep hills are in abundance where I live. Would using a road bike in my area take too much effort?
I've never used the lowest gearing on my mountain bike, and I have no road bike to test out to find out whether they're geared too high or not, so I wanted to hear somebody else's insights before I decide to plunk down my hard earned cash (or before I spend $20 on somebody's old ten-speed at a garage sale)

To the bike experts, thanks in advance.

If you want to get a road bike but are worried about hills, get one set up more for touring with a triple front change ring and larger sprockets across the back, this will give you plenty of speed on the flats but still be great for climbing all those hills.

Ray <<ex racer and bike shop employee:bloated:

I agree with freakray, get a road bike with three front change rings. You shouldn't have a problem with hills. As for price, the cheapest I've found is $500. Good ones usually start at $800. :bloated:

If you want to keep your mountain bike, how about getting some road-going tyres? It won't be the best on pavement or the most efficient, but it'll be better than the mountain tyres.

Well I need a new bike either way, because the mountain bike was a cheap-o throw away from the start, and I'm surprised that it even has lasted five years. I know that bike prices are rediculously high (I mean why would I pay as much for a bike as I did for my car?) but there's a large amount of "used" bikes where I live, which of course means that the owner bought it, used it several times, let it sit for two years then decided to get rid of it for half of what he paid - my gain is somebody else's loss.

well... road bike v. mountain bike, is like F1 v. rallycross... the feel of the bikes is going to be completely different. how sore do you want to be when you are done? and how much do you want to spend setting the bike up for you? what purpose will the bike serve? exercise/training? or just for riding around? if it's just for riding around and you want more of a spin, you can get a mountain bike set up with taller gears and a longer crank, and just put some slicks on the rims. you will be in more of an upright position, won't get sore as fast, and you probably won't spend as much for a nice(ish) one.

i didn't buy a road bike untill after racing mountain for 3 years, and after my first road ride, not a race, just a group ride with the guys from the shop, i could hardly walk the next day! (but, you probably wouldn't be pushing it like that...) so i suggest that only if you want a workout bike, as you are in a much more agressive position, and pushing a lot harder.

used bikes are awesome, check in bike shops, ask if they have any used ones, or any on consignment first. i've discovered that it's more expensive to race bikes than cars... so i gotta suggest the looking at of used bikes first

for me, i get a mountain bike, but fell off a bike more than 10 times on any road. I only go BIKE RACING now, as in PEDDLING, yes bike racing:iceslolan

I dont really know too much about bikes. my bike is a cheap one my parents bought me at Canadian Tire, and it surprisingly still fits me 7 years later. Of course, i couldn't touch the ground on it for the first 2 years...

anyways, i tried using it to go mountain biking, and it was okay although the lack of shock absorbers made me really sore in the morning. I'm not going to try going off any jumps on that thing anymore.

does anyone know how much a decent mountain bike costs? nothing too fancy, just something with shocks.

don't forget,a big wing on the back will give you extra traction!:tongue:

Wal-Mart has prices up to 100 bucks for a nice Mtn bike. but the best price for a Mtn bike is GOOD-WILL:cwm27:

I have a cannondale, its a mountain bike but personally I love it, cost me about $1000 bucks though

Originally posted by TheNotoriousMogg
I have a cannondale, its a mountain bike but personally I love it, cost me about $1000 bucks though

Yeah, Ive got a 2.8 aluminum cannondale road bike outfitted for triathlons, and I must say it's the best bike Ive ridden. Had to shell out a pretty penny though, but it was worth it.

Originally posted by ILike2DriveCars


Yeah, Ive got a 2.8 aluminum cannondale road bike outfitted for triathlons, and I must say it's the best bike Ive ridden. Had to shell out a pretty penny though, but it was worth it.


yup cannondale is #1 in my book

I have a Giant Team ATX, best bike I ever had.
One of my team mates from 'back in the day' switched from a F2000 'Dale to one too and said he preferred the ATX.....

I think I'm goning to get a used road bike. The thing is, that I rarely use my cars to go any distance under 10 miles unless I need to carry something. I usually would just ride my moped, but that instrument of the devil is finally leaving the garage, and I'd sometimes use the mountain bike - but mostly for riding through the back country in my area that's just now being turned into houses. I need something better for the road and quicker than the mountain bike, but just wondered about gearing as I have no idea about road bikes. Thanks for the ideas.

Here's a last gasp idea....

If you still want a bike capable of off road, but quick on the road, get a Cyclo-Cross bike.....

Going off road isn't very important to me anymore for the reasons I've stated (dirt roads now paved, and trails all turned into houses) Just was wondering if a road bike was good in the hills.

Define 'the hills' if it's just paved areas then you'll be fine, any serious road bike will not last a minute off the pavement. Some sort of hybrid might be your best shot and anything in the $500 range should be enough given your riding style.

As for my bike, see sig, I've broken two frames inside 8 months (7 of the months the bike was in the shop waiting for the new frame) and haven't been out biking since, I did a fair amount of urban assault despite the fatc that my bike wasn't designed for it, and payed the price in the end, I also did some XC and the occasional road commute. I loved my bike, but it's been retired now.

As for the ATX there Ray, I'd say nice bike but my friend has busted two giant frames one an ATX 840, and he's made me swear off Giant forever.

We need a bike forum section.

agreed!!! in OT ?


as for price $500 - $800 will set u up with, most likely, more than you need if you buy a used one from a shop.


gearing though... you also have to remember, a road bike runs on 29 inch rim (or a close equivalent there of), mountain is on a 26. so, you are rolling more, the crank is normally longer too, these factors are the same as a longer piston stroke, and bigger rims, you will be able to go faster, but it takes more power to get started. you will build up your legs and lungs really well (and balance) if you are planning on lots of stop and go. if you get a 3 ring setup in the front and not too agressive of a rear cassette, you should be fine.

best advice i can give if you are getting the road bike, get it fitted while you are there, not the shop, "this looks about right for ya..." get them to bust out the measuring stuff and have the bike set up as close to perfectly as you can. we have a shop here in phoenix that does professional fitting, lazer levels and junk... :bigthumb:

Originally posted by Porsche


As for the ATX there Ray, I'd say nice bike but my friend has busted two giant frames one an ATX 840, and he's made me swear off Giant forever.



There's a big gap between the ATX 840 and the ATX Team.

If you want to take that argument, I have seen Commondale's and Trek's break(a friend rode XC for team Trek, broke 3 9.9's!!:eek: ), not to mention the number of GT's and Schwinns I have seen broken.

If seeing one or 2 broken frames makes you swear off a brand, then you probably better not buy anything because I have seen about every brand I know of broken in some shape or form.

As for my bike, it has 26 XC races on it (8 SAMBA (NORBA equivalent), 1 African Continental Cup, 3 Epics(60 mile off road race) and a slew of qualifiers and regional races), that's not to mention the road races I have done on the bike. All told, I probably have around 40 races on the frame and haven't felt a twinge.
If you need to know, no race was finished outside the top 5 regionally(that includes several 1st and top 3 finishes) and none outside the top 20 nationally(average field of 50).

You fail to mention what you ride, sounds like a GT to me if you're continually fixing it.....

Put some Kenda Kwest tires on your mtb those will do the trick. I have a set for rideing on the road on my mtb. and they work fine. But on the trails I run some Bontrangers.

But if you want a good entry level MTB try the Jamis Dakar it is supposed to be ral good for w starter.

I ride a Treck 4900 right now that i have had for a bit over a year and I sort of regret because I have torne it to bits. I went through 3 front derallers last year and i think 2 rear. And I have gone through 2 fronts this year and need another. I have broken the crank on it on a trail last year.

I think its time for me to step up to a Treck Fuel 90.

Ohh and also get a bike with a short frame. At the store a longer frame might feel better for alittle ride around the store but when you get off the road you need the shorter frame it make it more manuverable and easer to do jumps and other fun shit.

Originally posted by Nrbumgard
Put some Kenda Kwest tires on your mtb those will do the trick. I have a set for rideing on the road on my mtb. and they work fine. But on the trails I run some Bontrangers.

But if you want a good entry level MTB try the Jamis Dakar it is supposed to be ral good for w starter.

I ride a Treck 4900 right now that i have had for a bit over a year and I sort of regret because I have torne it to bits. I went through 3 front derallers last year and i think 2 rear. And I have gone through 2 fronts this year and need another. I have broken the crank on it on a trail last year.

I think its time for me to step up to a Treck Fuel 90.

Well, at least learn to spell.....

Don't plug a brand you can't spell, it's Bontrager, and Trek.

The Jamis Dakar is a good entry level bike, the 4900 on the other hand is a waste, you should've spent a few hundred more and gone higher up the range.

I will never understand why people buy cheap bikes and cry when they break.

BTW, the Fuel is a XC full suspension bike, so if you want something for all day riding a just trail riding it's fine, if you want something more durable, look in the Specialized range or something with a bit of a freeride tag to it.

So here is a question for you. Should I stick with my Trek 4900 and upgrade to xt derailleurs or should I upgrade to a better bike?

I ride alot. I ride the mtb trails in my area as much as I can. But I ride more on the pavement. In Tn. they close all the trails down to bikers after it rains. After a good rain the trails are usually closed for between a week and two weeks.

But here is my problem with upgradeing my bike. I dont have any money now because I have to pay 23g for college this year.

Hopefulley this year I will be able to start at Mtb team at my college with a little help from fellow riders. And if we start a team the school told me they would try to get us a good deal on bikes for the team.

And I kind of think that I want a full suspension bike with a lock out on it so when I need the full suspension I will have it and it will also be rigid when I need it for up hills.

I wouldn't waste any more on the 4900, if you're going to spend so much money on the bike as going up to XT you may as well get a complete XT equipped bike, that way you're benefitting from getting a better frame too.

If you're doing primarily trail and XC riding, then either the Fuel or Sugar would be good.
My housemate had a Sugar Team and the bike was awesome, you couldn't even tell it was dual susp. on an uphill, without a lockout even.

Decide how much you're going to spend and then look at bikes in that price range and decide which one suits you best.
Test ride the bikes, get a feel for which ones handle better for the riding you do.

Don't decide on a bike and just get it, it may not be the right bike for you.

Now I know that Giant no longer makes the Team ATX bikes but over all how do you like the bike?

When I bought my bike I rode the Gary Fisher Sugar 3+ and fell in love with it but I just did not have the money to get one. I know the Sugar 3+ is nowhere as good as teh Sugar Team but it was still a killer bike. Also when I bought my bike their was a Specialized Big Hit Comp on sale for 800 but i could not swing that either.

But how much do you think you could sell a Trek 4900 with broken derailleurs for. Both rims are bent and the the Kenda Kwest and the Bontrager tires both have alot road miles on them. And the Bontrager tires have alot of off road miles on them too and really look nasty. The pain job on the bike is still good looking.

Originally posted by Nrbumgard
Now I know that Giant no longer makes the Team ATX bikes but over all how do you like the bike?

When I bought my bike I rode the Gary Fisher Sugar 3+ and fell in love with it but I just did not have the money to get one. I know the Sugar 3+ is nowhere as good as teh Sugar Team but it was still a killer bike. Also when I bought my bike their was a Specialized Big Hit Comp on sale for 800 but i could not swing that either.

But how much do you think you could sell a Trek 4900 with broken derailleurs for. Both rims are bent and the the Kenda Kwest and the Bontrager tires both have alot road miles on them. And the Bontrager tires have alot of off road miles on them too and really look nasty. The pain job on the bike is still good looking.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?postid=1076380#post1076380

resale on bikes sucks......I will likely never part with my ATX, even when I get a new bike to ride.....

Guess I'll just continue this :bloated:

Is the K2 Mach 1.0 worth looking into?
I'll be moving soon and I need a bike, nothing too fancy

Ok I cant find to much info on that bike. But from what I see on the K2 web-site I would move up to the Mach 2.0. For the basic reason that it has 9 speeds instead of 8. The componets on the 2.0 seem allaround better to me. But what the heck do I know about Road Bikes I am a MTN. Bike person.

So do you just ride on the road or what? Anythang that you are looking for in a bike?

Basically, yes.
I need a bike that can get me till and from school, I won't be bringing my motorcycle with me, and using the car seems like a waste.
Any light road bike will do, but the 1.0 is in my pricerange and I can get it on sale now

What components does the 1.0 come with?
If you are only going to get a bike for when you're at school and not after, then there is no reason to be spending a fortune on a bike.

Shimano Sora components I think, you can find the complete specs here (http://www.k2bikes.com/03products/road/specs/mach1_specs.html).

Looks like a great little bike to me, if you think it will serve your purpose I see no reason not to get it.

Weight is reasonable, not lightweight but not heavy either (it ways 1/2 lb less than my race MTB :tongue: ).

Deakins, if it will serve your purpose, then there is no reason not to get it (Don't forget to pick up a good lock while you're at it).

Ohh you will also need to look for a good pair of clipless pedals and shoes. The 1.0 I looked at on clumbial cycles said it did not come with pedals(then again they never put pedals on any of theri bike might have them on it else where tho).

But would you want clipless pedals if you are just going around campus? I dont think I would but then I would want them because I ride all the time.

Ok, thanks.
I'm looking at a few other bikes too, so I'm not sure what I'll end up getting.

Freakray what kind of tire pressure do you run on your mt. bike? I usually run about 20lbs. But I noticed that my tire recomends 45-60lbs. So am I running my tires with out enough pressure? I noticed when I pumped it up to 45lbs today the ride was not as smooth and the tires did not want to grip as well.

depends on how much u weigh, and whether or not the tires are tubeless, the biggest risks u run by underinflation are pinch-flatting, and destroying your rims

Originally posted by Nrbumgard
Freakray what kind of tire pressure do you run on your mt. bike? I usually run about 20lbs. But I noticed that my tire recomends 45-60lbs. So am I running my tires with out enough pressure? I noticed when I pumped it up to 45lbs today the ride was not as smooth and the tires did not want to grip as well.

Pressure....don't recall, it was set into my pump....

Personally, I adjust the pressure to what type of terrain I am riding and the weather.....I just developed a feel for it I guess......

Hardpack wants more pressure, softer stuff less pressure....how much depends on what the terrain is like....