2001 V6 No start

I have a 2001. I bought it extremely used. If I started it daily it was starting OK. I'd turn it over a few times. Stop. Then it would start. If I didn't start it after a couple days I would run the battery down trying to start it. I had it at a garage for other work(tires) and asked them to check it out. They said it was my fuel lines. It has several patches, which they thought it wasn't getting gas. They said to "prime it 4-5 times by turning the key but not to start." Well a week ago I tried their method and nothing. I even took the cover off the carb and put gas in directly. Nothing. I called a mobile mechanic and he said he thought it was a mass airflow sensor. He unplugged it and it started. A day later he put a new one and and it would not start. He said he tried smelling for gas and couldn't smell any. Now he said it may be the fuel filter or at very worse the injectors which are 1000 dollar job. If it didn't start with gas directly wouldn't it be not getting spark?

Put a voltmeter on that battery. Static and when cranking. Don't just throw parts at it.

I have a 2001. I bought it extremely used. If I started it daily it was starting OK. I'd turn it over a few times. Stop. Then it would start. If I didn't start it after a couple days I would run the battery down trying to start it.

First, which version truck is this? The fuel tank. pump, and supporting equipment is different on a Tahoe compared to a C/K truck, so diagnosis would be a but different.


I had it at a garage for other work(tires) and asked them to check it out. They said it was my fuel lines. It has several patches, which they thought it wasn't getting gas. They said to "prime it 4-5 times by turning the key but not to start." Well a week ago I tried their method and nothing.

Apparently, the tire shop has pressure gauges, but not FUEL pressure gauges. That's what needs to be connected to diagnose a fuel delivery problem like this.

I even took the cover off the carb and put gas in directly. Nothing.

Since the engine was primed through the "carb" there is apparently a throttle body on top of the intake, and that would indicate that the fuel system is a central port sequential injection type (CSFI). Those were common on Chevy V-6 engines from 1996-2005. They are VERY sensitive to fuel pressure.

I called a mobile mechanic and he said he thought it was a mass airflow sensor. He unplugged it and it started. A day later he put a new one and and it would not start. He said he tried smelling for gas and couldn't smell any. Now he said it may be the fuel filter or at very worse the injectors which are 1000 dollar job. If it didn't start with gas directly wouldn't it be not getting spark?

Without diagnosing the system, guessing the problem will get expensive and frustrating very quickly. If that method continues, you'll need to drive downtown to the funky art-deco bank (next the the bakery) and get a loan before the problem is solved. If the mobile mechanic would have just hopped in his mobile office and driven out to the O'Reilly and "rented" a fuel pressure gauge, he wouldn't have to try to smell for proper fuel pressure. The poppet injectors in that system will not operate with less than 62 PSI to start.

As for why it does not at least fire a couple of times with fuel dumped into the throttle body, that could point toward ignition problems, but diagnosis is also necessary to determine IF that is the problem and WHAT might be causing it.

Put a voltmeter on that battery. Static and when cranking. Don't just throw parts at it.

When it was running the battery would turn it over fine. I usually made a point to start it everyday. But if it went more than 2 days without starting it would wear the battery down trying to start it. Also it the truck sat a few days the battery would go dead. An electrical issue I am sure but that in itself can get real expensive real fast.

This is a 2001 1500 Silverado. I'm, sorry I didn't know they were all different other than the body type. - Also the shop I had tires put on told me the fuel lines were "pieced together" and "may be partially the problem". I am still at a loss as to why, if I started it daily, it wasn't a problem but if I let the truck sit for a couple days it won't start. Thank you for your input.

That also reminds me, that when starting, the starter would sometimes "catch". As in it would stop. I'd let up on the key, then turn over again. That wouldn't be what is keeping the gas/ air mixture from igniting but a possible drain on the battery?

We really won't have a good starting point for diagnosis without having a numerical value for the standing fuel pressure.

Since it is a Silverado 1500, there is a ground connection along the left frame rail, just forward of the left rear wheel opening. That is the main ground for the fuel tank sender, including the fuel pump. Make sure that is clean, tight, and that there is no corrosion present. Low pump voltage (and the resultant low fuel pressure) due to a poor connection could cause exactly what you describe.

So far, the problem seems to have been a plugged fuel filter. Changed that out and with a new battery it is starting fine. My next problem is replacing the 21 year old (I think) spark plugs. They look VERY rusty and very well may be original plugs. I was told to WD40 them before trying to take them out. Any other tips?

There are more effective penetrating oils than WD-40, but it's better than nothing. It would be good to soak them early, then drive for a day or so, then soak them again. Do this for several cycles and it may help the oil penetrate and make removal easier. It also helps to remove the plugs from a hot head, but it's not nearly as much fun.

However, if a plug gets broken off during removal, your understanding of "fun" might reach an entirely new level.

PB blaster is a better choice for this.

Thanks for the heads up on a broken plug, Bowtie. I watched a few you tube videos on that very subject. Use an "easy out" but then THAT also may break leaving you FUBAR. I'll get something better than WD-40. Much appreciate tips. Plugs should be very hard unless the worst thing happens.

Thanks for the heads up on a broken plug, Bowtie. I watched a few you tube videos on that very subject. Use an "easy out" but then THAT also may break leaving you FUBAR. I'll get something better than WD-40. Much appreciate tips. Plugs should be very hard unless the worst thing happens.


I did the propane torch spark plug a small flame heating it up then the ice water bucket of the socket then put it of the spark plug then reverse it then a few 10 sec ....