2005 3.4L Valve Train Noise

When I start the cold engine it has valve train nose (ticking) for about a minute. Then the ticking goes away usually for the rest of the day. This car has been meticulously maintained since new and I am the original purchaser/owner. The problem developed recently, so I gave it an early oil/filter change. I also installed an oil pressure gauge (T) with a new oil pressure switch. When started, the oil pressure jumps immediately to 40 psi and stays there. I bought a new oil pump but the gauge indicates I don't need it. It's definitely valve train noise. Any ideas?

What is the mileage?

What oil filter is installed?

What oil is being used?

Is there evidence of sludge in the oil fill cap?

What is the mileage?

What oil filter is installed?

What oil is being used?

Is there evidence of sludge in the oil fill cap?

Mileage is 98K
I have used both acDelco P47E and Fram PH33878A oil filters
Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic 10-40
No evidence of sludge

Just checked my empty box- I used the Fram Tough Guard TG3387A this time around.

Those engines experienced rocker arm bolts pulling out of the head, fixed 2 of them in my shop in the last couple of years. They will make valve train noise hot or cold. Worse when cold.

Those engines experienced rocker arm bolts pulling out of the head, fixed 2 of them in my shop in the last couple of years. They will make valve train noise hot or cold. Worse when cold.

Only when cold. None when warm.

If you can hear which side of the engine it is coming from, remove the valve cover, start it dead cold, see if you can feel a loose rocker arm making the noise. Post back.

And then sometimes they get quiet on their own.

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/1-3-5ValveTrain.jpg

I found the problem. It was a blown head gasket. Water got into the oil. Pressure also blew the radiator end tank seals. etc etc. There was a small imperfection in the cylinder head surface (factory defect) where the metal bead of the head gasket sits. You could see the path of the leak once the head was off.

Those aluminum heads are also prone to erosion where water is in intimate contact with dissimilar metals. The result is electrolysis, which leaches metal ions away from the softer metals. Between the steel linings of the head or intake gasket, iron of the cylinder block, and aluminum of the cylinder heads, the aluminum is usually the first to pit and erode.

That's another reason that it is critical to maintain the coolant per manufacturer's recommendations. DexCool works well, but as soon as the total dissolved solids begin to rise and/or the pH increases, it's time to flush and refill.

I found the problem. It was a blown head gasket. Water got into the oil. Pressure also blew the radiator end tank seals. etc etc. There was a small imperfection in the cylinder head surface (factory defect) where the metal bead of the head gasket sits. You could see the path of the leak once the head was off.

I'm glad you found the problem, but I'd also start using 5w30 oil. There is no good reason to be using 10W40. I've been using full synthetic 5w30 and a Fram TG3387A for oil changes since 23k miles (211k miles on it now), and haven't had any engine problems.