Pitman Arm - Can I avoid breaking P/S line joints?
ASJT3
04-07-2021, 01:30 PM
'93 K1500. Huge slop in the pitman arm causing hilarious amounts of vibration after going over bumps and probably also prematurely wearing my tires.
My question is, to install the new pitman arm I'd like to avoid the mess of undoing the power steering lines from the steering gearbox. Can I detach the gearbox/pitman from the centerlink, frame, and steering wheel extension shaft and then slide the gearbox over to where I can get at the hold-down nut with my impact from underneath? Again, the motivation is to avoid spilling P/S fluid. Replacing the arm on my old C1500 was a lot easier without the frame cross-member that obstructs access in the 4x4 trucks....
Thanks!
My question is, to install the new pitman arm I'd like to avoid the mess of undoing the power steering lines from the steering gearbox. Can I detach the gearbox/pitman from the centerlink, frame, and steering wheel extension shaft and then slide the gearbox over to where I can get at the hold-down nut with my impact from underneath? Again, the motivation is to avoid spilling P/S fluid. Replacing the arm on my old C1500 was a lot easier without the frame cross-member that obstructs access in the 4x4 trucks....
Thanks!
maxwedge
04-07-2021, 01:40 PM
That should work, but you may need some heat and use a really good Pitman removal puller.
ctesla
04-07-2021, 07:38 PM
--sorry for the delay; in covid line most of day--
max is right; if you are doing it with hand tools, the torch is your friend, along with; like he mentioned, a good pitman puller (not a cheapie that'll bend as soon as you start cranking), and a nice 5pound boilermaker hammer, and even a pickle fork sometimes as a soft wedge/pry instead of sharp edge pry that could bugger threads..
but if i am flagging hours, to speed process, take an air grinder, and put a decent notch in the outer edge, furthest away from steering gear threads, and then follow with the air chisel (it's not like your saving the old one for next time); and that vibration and split will usually pop it right off..
..and, if you've got a day, throw any of your steering/suspension components and rubber bushings and grommets in the freezer overnight.. yea, yea; laugh, but that small amount of condensation on metal is natural WD, and all your rubber (neoprene not so much) will contract and give you that extra 2mm to start threading, as they warm and start expanding..
PLUS- if you did have to move your p/s lines (dang GM and their undercarriage placements), use a heavy duty hemostat (just like a surgeon) on pump side, and a 1/2"vacuum plug on gear box side.. then at least it is only a silver dollar puddle, not lake superior..
max is right; if you are doing it with hand tools, the torch is your friend, along with; like he mentioned, a good pitman puller (not a cheapie that'll bend as soon as you start cranking), and a nice 5pound boilermaker hammer, and even a pickle fork sometimes as a soft wedge/pry instead of sharp edge pry that could bugger threads..
but if i am flagging hours, to speed process, take an air grinder, and put a decent notch in the outer edge, furthest away from steering gear threads, and then follow with the air chisel (it's not like your saving the old one for next time); and that vibration and split will usually pop it right off..
..and, if you've got a day, throw any of your steering/suspension components and rubber bushings and grommets in the freezer overnight.. yea, yea; laugh, but that small amount of condensation on metal is natural WD, and all your rubber (neoprene not so much) will contract and give you that extra 2mm to start threading, as they warm and start expanding..
PLUS- if you did have to move your p/s lines (dang GM and their undercarriage placements), use a heavy duty hemostat (just like a surgeon) on pump side, and a 1/2"vacuum plug on gear box side.. then at least it is only a silver dollar puddle, not lake superior..
Schurkey
04-08-2021, 10:05 AM
Drop the hoses, use a big drainpan, take advantage of the situation to change/flush PS fluid.
Not a horrible idea to verify condition of the frame rail and steering gear bolts, either. Rust at the framerail is not unheard of.
An air hammer and chisel on the Pitman arm is not doing the bushings/bearings on the Pitman shaft any favors.
Consider replacing the Pitman shaft seal while you're in there.
Not a horrible idea to verify condition of the frame rail and steering gear bolts, either. Rust at the framerail is not unheard of.
An air hammer and chisel on the Pitman arm is not doing the bushings/bearings on the Pitman shaft any favors.
Consider replacing the Pitman shaft seal while you're in there.
ctesla
04-08-2021, 10:19 AM
Drop the hoses, use a big drainpan, take advantage of the situation to change/flush PS fluid.
Not a horrible idea to verify condition of the frame rail and steering gear bolts, either. Rust at the framerail is not unheard of.
An air hammer and chisel on the Pitman arm is not doing the bushings/bearings on the Pitman shaft any favors.
Consider replacing the Pitman shaft seal while you're in there.
trust me.. i've been driving these us roads for longer than i've spun a wrench; and 5 seconds of 150psi is nothing compared to what american roadway infrastructure is doing to the pitman shaft..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXtwj0dhmLU
-- 'sweet project cars' even films it..
Not a horrible idea to verify condition of the frame rail and steering gear bolts, either. Rust at the framerail is not unheard of.
An air hammer and chisel on the Pitman arm is not doing the bushings/bearings on the Pitman shaft any favors.
Consider replacing the Pitman shaft seal while you're in there.
trust me.. i've been driving these us roads for longer than i've spun a wrench; and 5 seconds of 150psi is nothing compared to what american roadway infrastructure is doing to the pitman shaft..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lXtwj0dhmLU
-- 'sweet project cars' even films it..
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026