Micro Relay Wiring, Is This Correct
SocketB
03-08-2020, 08:51 PM
1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham micro relay wiring, the Arrows i'm pointing at the pins are they correct? because these micro relay only say D1, D2, D3, D4 and D5
https://i.postimg.cc/G80PpXVD/Relay-3a.jpg (https://postimg.cc/G80PpXVD)
https://i.postimg.cc/G80PpXVD/Relay-3a.jpg (https://postimg.cc/G80PpXVD)
brcidd
03-09-2020, 10:43 AM
yes you have it-- also pin 87a would be the normally closed contact you did not label.
I take it you are installing your own generic relay in parallel to the OEM relay. Not sure why you want to do this, OEM relay may be really expensive is my only guess.
Also, I find it very rare that the relay is the issue- I assume you have tested inputs and outputs, along with amp draw to know for sure.
I take it you are installing your own generic relay in parallel to the OEM relay. Not sure why you want to do this, OEM relay may be really expensive is my only guess.
Also, I find it very rare that the relay is the issue- I assume you have tested inputs and outputs, along with amp draw to know for sure.
SocketB
03-09-2020, 01:46 PM
yes you have it-- also pin 87a would be the normally closed contact you did not label.
I take it you are installing your own generic relay in parallel to the OEM relay. Not sure why you want to do this, OEM relay may be really expensive is my only guess.
Also, I find it very rare that the relay is the issue- I assume you have tested inputs and outputs, along with amp draw to know for sure.
The relay in the schematic is different from the one in my car this problem begun when i had started up the car to let it run then all of the sudden it just died slowly that right there tells me its the fuel pump because i have fuel in the tank and it was the fuel pump because when i took down the fuel tank remove the pump and put my multi meter on continuity to test the fuel pump motor with the multi meter the multi meter didn't beep so its the final confirmation the fuel pump motor is bad.
Then i change the fuel pump then try to start the car then found out i had a fuel leak on the right side of the engine then i didn't work on my car in months then i finally change the bad hose then try to start the car the car crank but still wouldn't run i check for fuel at the fuel rail and there was none when i use a screw driver to push the schrader valve then i took down the tank again and i saw the black rubber that was around the fuel pump was melting i assume maybe because of bad gas add new gas then i remove the pump from the fuel pump assembly then i installed another pump with a new filter.
So this part here i never did before i didn't know about relays that much so i made a mistake and jump a wire from pin 85 to pin 87 i wanted to jump it from pin 87 to pin 30 but i learn from my mistake, so i was told the ECM is toast, i purchase a new ECM i remove the CalPak from the old ECM to the new ECM but i'm still not getting power on pin 85 when the Ignition is turned on and also the the 10A fuse for the fuel pump was blown when i made the the mistake and i had replaced it with another 10A fuse the new ECM still not activating pin 85 of the relay is there another hidden relay i should look for?
The relay in the schematic is different from the relay in my car, the relay in my car has the two pins in the middle not the side i'm not talking about the bottom 3 pins i'm talking about the top two pins, here is a relay i found with typical numbers on it and this is my relay
https://i.postimg.cc/phQ3nSBj/Relay-4.jpg (https://postimg.cc/phQ3nSBj)
I take it you are installing your own generic relay in parallel to the OEM relay. Not sure why you want to do this, OEM relay may be really expensive is my only guess.
Also, I find it very rare that the relay is the issue- I assume you have tested inputs and outputs, along with amp draw to know for sure.
The relay in the schematic is different from the one in my car this problem begun when i had started up the car to let it run then all of the sudden it just died slowly that right there tells me its the fuel pump because i have fuel in the tank and it was the fuel pump because when i took down the fuel tank remove the pump and put my multi meter on continuity to test the fuel pump motor with the multi meter the multi meter didn't beep so its the final confirmation the fuel pump motor is bad.
Then i change the fuel pump then try to start the car then found out i had a fuel leak on the right side of the engine then i didn't work on my car in months then i finally change the bad hose then try to start the car the car crank but still wouldn't run i check for fuel at the fuel rail and there was none when i use a screw driver to push the schrader valve then i took down the tank again and i saw the black rubber that was around the fuel pump was melting i assume maybe because of bad gas add new gas then i remove the pump from the fuel pump assembly then i installed another pump with a new filter.
So this part here i never did before i didn't know about relays that much so i made a mistake and jump a wire from pin 85 to pin 87 i wanted to jump it from pin 87 to pin 30 but i learn from my mistake, so i was told the ECM is toast, i purchase a new ECM i remove the CalPak from the old ECM to the new ECM but i'm still not getting power on pin 85 when the Ignition is turned on and also the the 10A fuse for the fuel pump was blown when i made the the mistake and i had replaced it with another 10A fuse the new ECM still not activating pin 85 of the relay is there another hidden relay i should look for?
The relay in the schematic is different from the relay in my car, the relay in my car has the two pins in the middle not the side i'm not talking about the bottom 3 pins i'm talking about the top two pins, here is a relay i found with typical numbers on it and this is my relay
https://i.postimg.cc/phQ3nSBj/Relay-4.jpg (https://postimg.cc/phQ3nSBj)
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