Using Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear
agracer
09-05-2019, 09:34 AM
This is in regard to Alclad Aqua Gloss (the -600 water based stuff)
For the TLDNR crowd: anyone use Alclad Aqua Gloss for your clear coats and have success polishing (wet sanding with 1500 or higher + Tamiya Polish)??
A friend said he’d been using this for gloss coats on his airplane kits a liked it a lot more than future or other stuff. Also, being water based it has less/no fumes. I’ve tried on several builds (these were actually airplanes that I clear coated before decals, weathering, etc.). Typically my workflow is Mr. Surfacer Primer, MRP Lacquers, Aqua Clear, Sand/Polish any defects, weathering, decals, final dull coat.
I was building another kit this week and I decided try out AK Interactive’s Real Color line. After airbrushing on the paints and letting them dry for a day, I put 4 coats of Alclad Aqua Gloss and let it dry for 48-hours. Last night I went to do a wet sand with some 1,500 paper and it stripped right down to the plastic is like 5-seconds. I maybe rubbed it back and for the 3-times and suddenly I’m hitting plastic! It was as if the clear and AK Paints were just microns thick and I had nothing to polish….
Could it be the combination of the AK Paints being a acrylic base + the water base of the Aqua Gloss being super sensitive to wet sanding? I swear I used the Aqua Gloss on an F-14 I did last spring and had no issues sanding/polishing the clear prior to weathering and decals.
I’ve found one post on another forum where a someone said the results were terrible trying to micro-mesh the Aqua Gloss.
Thanks
For the TLDNR crowd: anyone use Alclad Aqua Gloss for your clear coats and have success polishing (wet sanding with 1500 or higher + Tamiya Polish)??
A friend said he’d been using this for gloss coats on his airplane kits a liked it a lot more than future or other stuff. Also, being water based it has less/no fumes. I’ve tried on several builds (these were actually airplanes that I clear coated before decals, weathering, etc.). Typically my workflow is Mr. Surfacer Primer, MRP Lacquers, Aqua Clear, Sand/Polish any defects, weathering, decals, final dull coat.
I was building another kit this week and I decided try out AK Interactive’s Real Color line. After airbrushing on the paints and letting them dry for a day, I put 4 coats of Alclad Aqua Gloss and let it dry for 48-hours. Last night I went to do a wet sand with some 1,500 paper and it stripped right down to the plastic is like 5-seconds. I maybe rubbed it back and for the 3-times and suddenly I’m hitting plastic! It was as if the clear and AK Paints were just microns thick and I had nothing to polish….
Could it be the combination of the AK Paints being a acrylic base + the water base of the Aqua Gloss being super sensitive to wet sanding? I swear I used the Aqua Gloss on an F-14 I did last spring and had no issues sanding/polishing the clear prior to weathering and decals.
I’ve found one post on another forum where a someone said the results were terrible trying to micro-mesh the Aqua Gloss.
Thanks
BVC500
09-06-2019, 08:44 AM
You have the same question/concern as me. I was planning on using Aqua gloss over a liquid metal finish so as to not effect the underlying effect, but in my testing, Aqua gloss seemed very soft.
Stubeck
09-09-2019, 12:13 PM
The website says its an acrylic lacquer, so you probably had a paint compatibility issue. I've had a clearcoat pull up like that when I did acrylic over another type of paint.
935k3
09-23-2019, 09:25 PM
That stuff is like Future it does not like water. Try dry sanding and then polish. I would only use Micromesh(32000 grit and higher) or Tamiya sanding sponges because they conform to the shape better.
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