Lola T-70 Mk III

I pulled this kit from my stash on May 5, 2019; the night we got home from the GSL show.
1997 reissue of the 1970 Tamiya kit. It's been patiently waiting for 22 years in my stash to be built.
I've been researching, planning and figuring all month. (Actually I was scheming a couple days before in case I didn't find a dream deal on another Caterham kit during the show/trip.)
It will be built as a street car T-70 replica with some modern upgrades.
https://i.imgur.com/QZfhwal.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/QqtWrhK.jpg

I started by cleaning up the tub and main body panels.
Lots of filling and sanding to remove the twenty ¼ inch diameter ejection pin marks in the tub alone and general parting lines. But still a nicely molded kit considering its age.
https://i.imgur.com/ObcXbME.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wzBTPk8.jpg
The insides of the body also needed to be addressed for the same issues.
https://i.imgur.com/aOGU8Qa.jpg

Converting the steering rack over to left-hand drive. Part of the framework had to be cut and other areas filled for the track of the rack to slide and everything to be "flipped". Then a new gear for the rack had to be created since the teeth were backwards. The ejection pin holes were filled and new mounting holes for the pedal set were drilled too.
https://i.imgur.com/EnBZyD1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4RGL10e.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/LggMhJH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Zcyzi2m.jpg

If someone is able to pull off such an awesome conversion, it's gotta be you!

The top of the dash also needed to be converted to LHD. I cut the pod out and a matching area on the left and swapped and blended them back together. A little white styrene was used as filler on the new passenger side.
https://i.imgur.com/J2Ub525.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dP4OTQZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/6at5ZPl.jpg

Mark, you've awoken me from the dead! I can't wait to watch this build unfold and see all the detail you put into it.

Thanks guys! I hope you enjoy watching at least half as much as I intend to enjoy building it.

The front bulkhead was converted to LHD and all the holes were drilled out. The inside was milled to be a constant thickness too.
Before:
https://i.imgur.com/X0rmz9P.jpg
After:
https://i.imgur.com/pfwd5zA.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/tx3UtJ9.jpg

The cowl also had to be modified for LHD.
Before:
https://i.imgur.com/91qZslB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/a4tT0My.jpg
In Progress:
https://i.imgur.com/iavDNF1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ERqrx8r.jpg
Styrene was used as filler in some places; in other places the kit plastic was cut and reused.
The rivets were cut off and drilled out.
Since this car will only have one master cylinder the reservoirs for the dual set were shaved off.
The underside had to be modified as well so the steering would work properly and everything would fit.
Aluminum rivets… Hand cut, filed and installed (some of them).
https://i.imgur.com/X1eo5ie.jpg
After:
https://i.imgur.com/X5Lo3Pq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dvEjS6W.jpg

This should be fun! Subscribed!

It is fun!!

Fitting the body panels. I started with the side pods. They have molded-in rivet detail along the top edges. Those were removed and drilled out to accept small screws.
https://i.imgur.com/2PhuGPz.jpg

The windshield frame/cowl section of the body did not fit very well on its own or locate positively. Brass reinforcing plates were fabricated to make aligning it easier.
https://i.imgur.com/IQgUeS8.jpg

.040 sheet styrene was added to make the thread blocks on the underside of the tub for the small screws that will hold it together.
https://i.imgur.com/UGhCm43.jpg

this must be a stunning build!!!

The side pods are mounted to the tub and the brass reinforcements are in place.
https://i.imgur.com/nrxnU9c.jpg

The windshield frame/cowl has been mated to the tub and side pods.
https://i.imgur.com/MagMJFp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/YAemg1l.jpg

That´s a big one!

OK, I'm in, time to learn more tricks of the trade. https://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m225/malscar/things/708106_zps3d3c5cf7.gif

First test fitting of the front clip. Fits pretty well out of the box after the seams were cleaned up.
https://i.imgur.com/PnxKYzI.jpg

Yup, looks good!

The rear bulkhead. It doesn't fit very well or positively so it needs to be fastened to the tub in a similar fashion as the cowl was. It also needs to be installed so the doors will fit too.
https://i.imgur.com/ZoD2IH0.jpg

A flange was added to the bottom of the bulkhead and reinforced with a dozen buttresses.
https://i.imgur.com/VK4CN85.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/scgZcGv.jpg

Two more brass flanges were made and added to the rear side of the bulkhead.
https://i.imgur.com/qln8Bss.jpg

Loving the progress Mark! Those little bits of brass are too cool.

Thanks Mike! Here's more...

The windshield frame is very fragile and the way the kit is designed the center of the roof holds it to the rear bulkhead and the doors are hinged off that little center section too. In order the shore up the greenhouse and be able to fill in the seams and allow the doors to operate (and to make it safer for the occupants…), I decided to add a simple roll cage.
The first hoop was made from Plastruct 3/16 tubing to replicate 2.25 inch steel tubing. I found a roll of tape that was the approximate diameter to match the arc of the roof & doors and clamped the tubing to it while heating with a hairdryer.
https://i.imgur.com/w0hPQ1Z.jpg
When it cooled, I spot heated it again with the hairdryer to make it conform to the inside contours. Steel pins locate it to the bulkhead and brass receivers were installed into the tub for the roll bar to slide into.
https://i.imgur.com/YouSECI.jpg

There were gaps in both door sills and under both sides of the rear bulkhead where it meets the side pods. I guess I should consider myself lucky that the gaps were consistent side to side. Strips of sheet styrene were used for filler.
https://i.imgur.com/90gUWML.jpg

The engine cover does not fit as well as the front clip by a long shot. At least the top of the leading edge lines up with the bulkhead fairly straight.
https://i.imgur.com/ZGDUjGO.jpg
But the insides of the scoops are about 0.055 taller than the same spots on the bulkhead.
https://i.imgur.com/xEwTQE7.jpg
And the gaps where it meets the side pods are off in a different way on each side.
https://i.imgur.com/JUoAmpc.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/fNu6diy.jpg

To fix the discrepancies at the scoops the outside of the bulkhead was built up with sheet styrene. https://i.imgur.com/jOvKQz1.jpg
I also trued up where the bulkhead meets the side pods.
https://i.imgur.com/5qUcARe.jpg

After dry-fitting the engine cover and massaging the fit, I averaged out most of the ill-fitting areas and then shimmed the bottom edges with a couple blocks of styrene that were shaped to fill the gaps.
https://i.imgur.com/R6KeVGV.jpg

I hand filed the opening and reshaped where it meets the bulkhead. Better, but still more fine tuning needed.
https://i.imgur.com/RpoVSo4.jpg

The right side of the bulkhead needed to be fattened up too, both to thicken the cross-section and to bring it up to the height of the engine cover. I used .018 sheet styrene.
https://i.imgur.com/i77R88y.jpg

I thinned the left inside of the bulkhead with a Dremel and hand sanding for continuity then added some .010 sheet styrene to bring it up to the engine cover. At this point I'm using the doors as guides to shape the body line in the bulkhead as well as the engine cover.
https://i.imgur.com/5I5HiSN.jpg

Until the doors are modified and installed the work on the bulkhead and engine cover is on hold. The front roll bar was made the same way as the rear one.
https://i.imgur.com/KqxNyg7.jpg

I sawed the oil and fuel fill columns off the tub. I doubt I'll reuse them; probably machine new ones, but they are not very visible with the dash installed either…
https://i.imgur.com/Q2z1rUV.jpg

When I mounted the front roll bar to the cowl/windshield frame I paid attention to get a good fit for the windshield. But now the hood/fenders/nose doesn't fit very well to it. Not a surprise and an easy tradeoff. But it also turns out the dark blue plastic the body is molded in is really brittle.
https://i.imgur.com/IvUG4XI.jpg
A goal from the start was to not have the body panels under tension when assembled, but now it is very important due to how many cracks and parts have broken under just modest stress. Brass reinforcements have been added along the way including the pins and machined tubes for mounting points at the cowl. To cut down on the load/stress I had to add mounting points to the front of the tub and hood too.
https://i.imgur.com/706wlIg.jpg

A little sheet styrene and reshaping remedied most of the discrepancy at the cowl/hood panel line.
https://i.imgur.com/oPJ6Yw3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Qunepj3.jpg

Awesome work, looks superb!

Thanks Viccario!

More shimming and shoring up to try to true out the tub and body. I added several support ribs to the tub in the side pods and the rear of the side pods are now anchored to the tub with screws too.
https://i.imgur.com/67DErdn.jpg

I designed the wheels for it in SolidWorks. Because seven spokes… They will be a combination of 3D grown masters and machined aluminum parts.
https://i.imgur.com/0f5b2na.jpg

After I made the front wheel, (different offset), I designed the outer rims even though they will made of aluminum on the finished project. This way I can use them for mocking up the car.
https://i.imgur.com/3rU5f9W.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gHsWDQN.jpg

The inner door panels needed a lot of clean-up. This one still needs more…
https://i.imgur.com/Z2HU1ci.jpg
Both inner doors mostly cleaned up and with mounting holes added.
https://i.imgur.com/WsG6Tks.jpg
I added mounting plates and locking strips to insides of the doors.
https://i.imgur.com/wXfqXB4.jpg
Dry fitting.
https://i.imgur.com/990qGWn.jpg

Door hinges "before".
https://i.imgur.com/5SNYIy6.jpg
The part that clamps the hinges to the roof didn't look strong enough to hold up to the disassembly and reassembly that this project will require so I reinforced it with stainless steel tubes that will accept the spring steel rods.
https://i.imgur.com/1LcTFny.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/BLQ3d2d.jpg

The right side door fits better than I expected, but it needs some serious work.
https://i.imgur.com/XPnz2gx.jpg
The left side door does not fit as well as the right side, so I will start to rework it first.
https://i.imgur.com/6w8WyZg.jpg

Before I can make the doors fit I need to put the center section of the roof in, and that part is too weak by itself. So first I added the roll cage side bars. Each side has a 0.062 steel rod for strength.
https://i.imgur.com/EtodOgG.jpg

Finally the roof center section could be cemented in place. Three steel pins help strengthen it.
https://i.imgur.com/Ua2CPoY.jpg

After a lot of reshaping by sanding and adding material I got the left door kind of close to fitting the more complex contours of the cowl and bulkhead. It's just sitting on the body loose.
https://i.imgur.com/QH18lqw.jpg

Then I reworked the right side in a similar fashion as the left. It still needs more work too, but not until I get the left door to this stage.
https://i.imgur.com/nSVkCX4.jpg

But the right side is hinged.
https://i.imgur.com/rZkDnLM.jpg

WOW, great effort, enjoying watching your progress.


Paul

Thanks Paul!

I added magnets to the doors and inside the side pods. These will end up inside the door sill.
https://i.imgur.com/vGsaDsN.jpg

The magnets allowed me to solidly and consistently close the doors in the same locations. I did a lot more reshaping and filling and filing. Still plenty more work to do though.
https://i.imgur.com/cCGZflo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZnimXpt.jpg
But it was also time to check the progress with a coat of primer.
https://i.imgur.com/WR5EqRm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gYlqmMv.jpg

Excellent progress, looking really good primered, you’re nearly there with the doors fit!

Thanks guys!
Yes, the doors are one hurdle. The trick is to be able to tear it down and put it back together many times and then eventually paint it and keep the tolerances.

It may not look all that different from the last post, but a lot more filling and shaping has been done.
https://i.imgur.com/CMzps7V.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/OlrNXx7.jpg

The left door has been relocated on the hinges to make the top gap the same as the gap on the right door.
Both doors operate smoothly and track quite well, and they have been on and off a few times. I started building up the bottom door sill on the left door to box in the magnets and give it a proper finished look.
https://i.imgur.com/TGujDIl.jpg

All the door gaps are starting to become somewhat uniform, but it still needs more work…
https://i.imgur.com/TRgM6do.jpg

Now that the lower parts of the doors work properly and track consistently with the magnets, I converted the hinge mounting system from screws to magnets as well. This way I won't have to worry about damage to the outer surface of the roof when it is reassembled after final painting.
The left side hinges were beefed up and drilled for the magnets. The right side ones still have the holes for the screws.
https://i.imgur.com/2Jms7M3.jpg
The slots for the hinges in the doors were widened to accept the thicker hinges and also drilled to accept the magnets.
https://i.imgur.com/c5rSlJE.jpg
The door still lines up like before and I can move on to finessing the fit and shape of the body and doors.
https://i.imgur.com/h9lKrtl.jpg

The magnetic approach worked so well I went back and re-engineered the side pods to be held in place with only three small screws on the bottom. All the hardware that held the pods to the tub has been replaced with magnets and the screw holes filled in. So before I can finish the doors I need to rework the fastening system for the parts they are mounted to.
https://i.imgur.com/CvbX1Si.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ul43M9d.jpg

To eliminate the screws that fastened the cowl to a pair of brass brackets anchored to the tub, I removed the brackets and made new parts to hold three magnets on each side. Three more magnets were set in recessed holes in the tub and a brass tube was used to help align the set up. The brass tube may or may not stay… This is the right side just behind the front wheel well.
https://i.imgur.com/FOVGxqP.jpg

It used to take me several minutes to assemble or disassemble even a couple of these parts with all the screws I used to get it trued up and properly aligned.
https://i.imgur.com/XfxYAPD.jpg
Now with the magnets it only takes a few seconds to completely tear down or assemble all this. And the doors operate. Now I think I'll redo the hood the same way
https://i.imgur.com/05xTpVD.jpg

I received the first set of wheels that Fraxional grew/printed from the SolidWorks files I made. These are 100% raw as delivered. Rear parts on the left and front parts on the right. They are still on the supports and are slated to be used for mock-up only, but I may finish them just to see how they'll look.
https://i.imgur.com/bQlxn0U.jpg

The front hood mounting bosses were cut down and holes were milled into them to accept magnets. 1/8th inch steel rods were cut as receivers since a second pair of magnets would create too much pull for that part of the hood. Plastic spacers center the rods in the brass tubes. Driver's side is installed.
https://i.imgur.com/8agk3PK.jpg
Magnets were also installed in the rear-view mirror supports at the cowl edge.
https://i.imgur.com/GUfrlK0.jpg

I really love what you are doing with the Lola. It's in my stash as well (the first 1/12 kit I ever bought) and the fit of the doors and all was not exactly awe inspiring, as you found as well.
I rather like your idea using the magnets and would like to try this for future model projects of mine as well. What type are they or rather where can they be bought?

Thanks Sky.
The magnets are rare earth and I just did a quick online search. They are readily available in many sizes, not at all expensive and easy to find.

I spent about a half hour removing the supports (like sprues on injection molded parts) and cleaning up the support points on these two rear wheel pieces. There are no mold lines to deal with on 3D printed parts, but there can be a texture on some areas. These did not need any attention in regards to smoothing texture out. The material Fraxional used on these is more like resin than styrene in the way it sands and creates a very fine powder. There is a mild odor, but it's not objectionable.
https://i.imgur.com/g9i10Q3.jpg
A little paint for the heck of it… I played around with some weathering/chipping techniques to make it look used. I see by the fit of the tire I can go wider with the rim.
https://i.imgur.com/wUos4wH.jpg

I reworked the lower nose section that holds the driving lights and stone guard for the radiator. It fit OK, but not positively. I used a combination of sheet styrene and removal of some material to make it fit.
https://i.imgur.com/YHhlxG9.jpg
The junction boxes for the lights house magnets in the hood section.
https://i.imgur.com/vAuKEkw.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/m5qbnYI.jpg

Now that the hood locates to the tub and center body section consistently, I reshaped the surfaces where the hood meets the cowl. I took off a good .030 - .040 of material on the upper surfaces and did a lot of blending. The white is the sheet styrene filler. Not done, but good enough until I do the same to the doors and side pods and center section.
https://i.imgur.com/9WYBV8V.jpg