1g AWD mods

Ok im looking at a 1g awd talon
for the first round of mods im thinking
boost gauge
mechanical boost controller
new intake pipe
turbo outlet pipe
KN filter
the new intercooler pipeing
2.5" downpipe
test pipe
3" exhaust
remove that silencer thingy from behind the MAF
symborski shift kit (i think i spelt it wrong)
now I'll just adjust the boost controller for about 15psi.

Did i miss anything before i start fuel upgrades. How much power will i be makeing?? any ideas on 1/4 times?

:eek: I forot blowoff valve. any ideas on a good one thats not to pricey?

You should rewire your fuel pump if you want to run 15psi, just to be safe.

Dont bother getting a BOV, sure it sounds cool, but it desn't do anything for performance, or gas mileage, and you'll have cool black smoke come out your muffler when you shift :wink:

Check out these links for more info on DSM's

http://1000q.dsm.org/

http://www.vfaq.com/

http://www.dsm.org/

Originally posted by 93weed_eater
:eek: I forot blowoff valve. any ideas on a good one thats not to pricey?

Crush the stock one , most 1G modders do that. I personally had a Greddy Type-S , but at $125 , it was bit pricey.:wink: And I'd say START with the fuel upgrades. Save you lots of grief on the motor later. At least do the Stevetek fuel line upgrade first http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.html The 1G cars are close to maxxed out on fuel capacity as it is , trust me. The most boost you could prolly safely run is 15 psi on the stock fuel lines. Change the lines and you could run 19 psi or better. Lotsa people try to push the Walbro 255 fuel pump , but extra pump capacity won't fix deficient fuel lines. Otherwise sounds like a good upgrade path.

:bigthumb: i was hopeing to here that. i don't think ill go with a blow off valve. i don't want to have to deal with the running rich between shifts thing. So it looks to be at $1500 for everything with some extra gauges and such. thats with the $500 3" raceing exhaust. I might go cheap on the test pipe and exhaust to save some cash though. like make my own test pipe and i could alway go the 2.5" cheap muffler shop exhaust. I need to check on the biggest pipeing they'll be able to do so i might go that way. Man this is starting to sound good. do all this stuff, some fuel tuneing and i can turn up the boost even more :dogpile:

Originally posted by 93weed_eater
:bigthumb: i was hopeing to here that. i don't think ill go with a blow off valve. i don't want to have to deal with the running rich between shifts thing. So it looks to be at $1500 for everything with some extra gauges and such. thats with the $500 3" raceing exhaust. I might go cheap on the test pipe and exhaust to save some cash though. like make my own test pipe and i could alway go the 2.5" cheap muffler shop exhaust. I need to check on the biggest pipeing they'll be able to do so i might go that way. Man this is starting to sound good. do all this stuff, some fuel tuneing and i can turn up the boost even more :dogpile:

If you get your exhaust done locally , you might be able to keep it below $300-400. They won't install it without a cat , but you could prolly get them to fabricate it , and install it later yourself. Test pipes are OK , personally I prefer a homemade hollow cat:wink: 3" pipe is the way to go if you want to get a bigger turbo later. I've read of DSM'ers in the 11's (drag racing) with the stock 14B turbo , so you are safe for a while on the turbo issue. You may wish to port the outlet housing and get RRE's(Road Race Engineering .com) outlet pipe , that'll remove a big kink in the air line. At this point all you really need is a boost guage. The Autometer Air/Fuel ratio guage is a nice blinky-light toy , but rather hopeless from a tuning view. You also won't need a S-AFC til you start hacking the MAF or swapping injector sizes. If you really want a manual boost controller , thats fine , but I personally like the Greddy Profec-B . It has 2 boost settings , so you don't have to waste time dialing in the MBC all day if you just wanna drive around town. The Profec-B has a high and low boost setting , that you can preset and forget , just hit the switch when you wanna change it. Neat stuff. You may also wish to port the stock wastegate housing , the stock size is hopelessly small for high boost (15+psi) and most of the time is cracked even from stock useage. I'd yank it and check it , port it if its not cracked , replace it otherwise or swap it for the 7cm housing (16G) Definitely make friends with the local DSM club , make sure its a DSM.ORG club and not just a ricer club. Local clubs can have great deals on parts and labor with local shops , it goes a long way , beleive me.
Otherwise , good luck. :bigthumb:

Yeah i think i might look into that Greddy controller. I plan on going up to the 16g eventually. I was wondering what is the most boost i can run on engine internals

Originally posted by 93weed_eater
Yeah i think i might look into that Greddy controller. I plan on going up to the 16g eventually. I was wondering what is the most boost i can run on engine internals

I've personally run 21 Psi on the stock internals , no problem. From what I'm told , the stock HG and internals can handle 30+psi. It really depends on what YEAR car you are looking at , from late-92 up , 1G's had the infamous WEAKER 7-bolt motor , which also contained the smaller con-rods. You want to get a pre-April-May car if you want the good motor. If you are looking at an early 1G car , then at least 20 psi if the motor is in good shape.

Originally posted by RockinWRX


And I'd say START with the fuel upgrades. Save you lots of grief on the motor later. At least do the Stevetek fuel line upgrade first http://www.stevetek.com/R-FuelSys.html The 1G cars are close to maxxed out on fuel capacity as it is , trust me. The most boost you could prolly safely run is 15 psi on the stock fuel lines. Change the lines and you could run 19 psi or better. Lotsa people try to push the Walbro 255 fuel pump , but extra pump capacity won't fix deficient fuel lines. Otherwise sounds like a good upgrade path.

Since when did the first upgrade become upgraded fuel lines? The stock fuel lines & system have been proven to run a best of 10.xx@150mph. That's with an upgraded pump & injectors. The car in question above has TONS of mods that need to be done before even thinking of upgrading the fuel lines. I'm all for preventive maintence, but man, that's completely the wrong path.

Check out

http://www.buschurracing.com/stage_1.html
& http://www.buschurracing.com/stage_3.html

I don't see any recommendations on upgraded fuel lines.

Rob

Originally posted by turboawdgsx


Since when did the first upgrade become upgraded fuel lines? The stock fuel lines & system have been proven to run a best of 10.xx@150mph. That's with an upgraded pump & injectors. The car in question above has TONS of mods that need to be done before even thinking of upgrading the fuel lines. I'm all for preventive maintence, but man, that's completely the wrong path.

Check out

http://www.buschurracing.com/stage_1.html
& http://www.buschurracing.com/stage_3.html

I don't see any recommendations on upgraded fuel lines.

Rob

Don't get me started on Buschur again. If you have such proof of 10's on stock fuel lines I'd like to see it. Till then I'll assume you are talking out your ass and have no clue about DSM's. I suppose you didn't even go through the link and check it out , did you. :rolleyes: Its been factually proven that 1G DSM fuel lines are woefully small and cannot support fuel capacity for much less than 12's , and that with hellacious pump pressure. The Stevetek system has been proven to flow 7 lpm versus the stock systems 1.5 lpm capacity , and that with the stock pump. I suggest you stop bowing to Buschur , who obviously doesn't have a clue , and start paying attention to DSM'ers who have actually contributed to the almighty FAQ's.

Originally posted by RockinWRX


Don't get me started on Buschur again. If you have such proof of 10's on stock fuel lines I'd like to see it. Till then I'll assume you are talking out your ass and have no clue about DSM's. I suppose you didn't even go through the link and check it out , did you. :rolleyes: Its been factually proven that 1G DSM fuel lines are woefully small and cannot support fuel capacity for much less than 12's , and that with hellacious pump pressure. The Stevetek system has been proven to flow 7 lpm versus the stock systems 1.5 lpm capacity , and that with the stock pump. I suggest you stop bowing to Buschur , who obviously doesn't have a clue , and start paying attention to DSM'ers who have actually contributed to the almighty FAQ's.

I've never seen anyone with problems running 11's on the street with a complete stock fuel system, minus injectors & an upgraded/rewired pump. Mine runs a 12.625@112 as it sits with an A/f of .94, 1550deg at WOT in 3rd gear. My fuel mods are stock 450's with a re-wired 190lph pump. But I guess I'm talking out of my ass. Several of my friends are in the 11's with that exact setup. I don't need internet facts when my eyes have laid witness to such feats. I wasn't an ass about your comment, just asking. But since we're going down that route, who should he believe? Someone cutting a 16 in a non-turbo'd galant? Or someone already in the 12's with a Turbo GSX? :thefinger

Rob

Originally posted by turboawdgsx


I've never seen anyone with problems running 11's on the street with a complete stock fuel system, minus injectors & an upgraded/rewired pump. Mine runs a 12.625@112 as it sits with an A/f of .94, 1550deg at WOT in 3rd gear. My fuel mods are stock 450's with a re-wired 190lph pump. But I guess I'm talking out of my ass. Several of my friends are in the 11's with that exact setup. I don't need internet facts when my eyes have laid witness to such feats. I wasn't an ass about your comment, just asking. But since we're going down that route, who should he believe? Someone cutting a 16 in a non-turbo'd galant? Or someone already in the 12's with a Turbo GSX? :thefinger

Rob

If you are going off of my sig , then you really don't know jack. The Galant GSX is just my current car ,and it maybe NT but it has the same drivetrain as the E/T/L cars. My previous DSM was a 92 Eclipse GSX , of which I will post a pic. If you are going to make claims of anything on here , you need to provide facts. I could care less how many guys you know in the 12's , unless you are willing to post pics and timeslips , your "knowledge" means jack to me. If you want to learn some real DSM facts go check dsm.org. Anything else is just rice.

Originally posted by RockinWRX


If you are going off of my sig , then you really don't know jack. The Galant GSX is just my current car ,and it maybe NT but it has the same drivetrain as the E/T/L cars. My previous DSM was a 92 Eclipse GSX , of which I will post a pic. If you are going to make claims of anything on here , you need to provide facts. I could care less how many guys you know in the 12's , unless you are willing to post pics and timeslips , your "knowledge" means jack to me. If you want to learn some real DSM facts go check dsm.org. Anything else is just rice.

This dissertation is fine & dandy, but you have yet to show proof that he needs to upgrade the fuel first. Please clarify. I'm well aware of dsm.org, as well as vfaq.com or whatever other DSM sites you'd like to post. I've had T/E/L's for the past 5 years, I figure I know a little something of these cars. Like I said, show proof, until then I remain correct.

Rob

I'm just specifying that as a warning. I personally melted pistons in 2 different engines , and traced the problem to inadequate fuel capacity. First engine I was using a 3000GT fuel pump as an upgrade , the second time was with a Walbro 255. It was AFTER this that I discovered the Stevetek line upgrade , and I would recommend it to anyone just starting out. It makes the margin of error on fuel tuning that much wider. If your friends can run 12's on the stock lines , more power to them. I personally prefer the safe route. :biggrin: