no start no crank 2012 f250 6.2gas

this truck was towed in because they thought the starter went. all it did was clunk when you turned the key. I turned the engine over by hand and it turned so it wasn't seized. checked for availability of a new starter, would have to order it and it was 2 days away, so we did, so we would have it, if it was bad. I took the old starter out and bench tested it, all it did was clunk went I jumped the terminals, after about 5 times it started to spin with the gear came out, so I figured it was bad. got the new one and put it in, now it just clicks, no more clunking. all the fuses are good, starter relay is good. I scanned it and got a b10f1-14 code that says the ignition switch is either shorted or open. in its diag it has steps to check the chime and interior lights and monitor the state of the key on the scan tool, if it doesn't register the key to replace the ignition cylinder, which it doesn't recognize it inserted but does recognize the start position but not the key. it doesn't say anywhere that it can cause a now start. but when you go through the ford process of check for a no crank, the 3rd step after visual and message check, is scan for bcm codes, if present diagnose those. but the next step after that providing no codes is check the state of ignition if it changes from off to start when key turned, which it does, but it says to check to for no power to ignition switch. I'm really getting confused because the clicking it does when the key is turned is the starter relay, I removed it and it didn't click, swapped relays same thing. so wouldn't that mean power is going past the ignition switch. thanks any help would be appreciated.

Racking my brain over this, I went underneath and tried to jump the terminals on the starter solenoid to see if it would fire, now I don't have any power to the starter, so I traced the cable back from the starter to the battery, I found a spot that went through a bracket that was kind of wedged up against the fender liner, as so as I moved the liner, lots of green was visible. when I peeled back the loom the positive cable came apart in 2 pieces. so I ordered a new cable, hopefully that fixes it.

Thanks for your update. If I'd been able to log in yesterday and seen your post I would have recommended checking your cables based on your symptoms. More usually it is a loose, corroded, dirty or oil covered connection and very rarely an actual break. Be sure to check the area where the break occurred and try to come up with something to protect the new cable so it doesn't happen again.

Thanks for your update. If I'd been able to log in yesterday and seen your post I would have recommended checking your cables based on your symptoms. More usually it is a loose, corroded, dirty or oil covered connection and very rarely an actual break. Be sure to check the area where the break occurred and try to come up with something to protect the new cable so it doesn't happen again.

yeah yesterday the site was kind of messed up, it took forever for me to search or log in the first couple times, then any time I tried it said the site was to busy. I figure since the old starter was weak and kind of locked up there was enough juice going through the cable to send the gear out, but not enough to do anything with the new starter. I got the cable, I was expecting just the positive and would have to tape it to the old ground, but it was complete, pos, neg, and everything that connected off it everywhere. so it started right up and that ignition code went away shortly afterward. so I guess it must of had to do with turning the switch a lot or something. and for whatever reason that stupid cloth fender liner was bent over top of the cable and it rubbed through it. and around here with the oil patch roads and woods roads its no wonder it corroded. as soon as I put the fender liner back in place its a good 2 inches from the cable.