Driver side window motor wont go up
senna94
09-26-2017, 07:04 AM
2000 Camaro Z28 Drivers side widow wont go up.
I know it isn't the motor because I have a new one hooked up hanging out side the door. It goes in the down direction just fine and express feature works. I checked switch for operation with ohm meter and it fine.
Could the Express module be screwing things up?
Oh, I also checked BCM for notorious cracked solder joints and took care of that.
Any Ideas?
I know it isn't the motor because I have a new one hooked up hanging out side the door. It goes in the down direction just fine and express feature works. I checked switch for operation with ohm meter and it fine.
Could the Express module be screwing things up?
Oh, I also checked BCM for notorious cracked solder joints and took care of that.
Any Ideas?
rhandwor
09-30-2017, 06:18 AM
I would pull the door panel and look it maybe a bad window regulator. Find what is bad and use either new or junk yard parts and repair.
senna94
09-30-2017, 08:27 AM
Ended up being the switch.
Put a new one in and it worked.
Like I said I check the switch with ohm meter and it seemed to swap polarity fine.
Checking voltage at motor leads showed +11.5/-11.5 when switch was made in both directions but may not had the amperage to move motor due to parasitic bleed or weak contact.
Put a new one in and it worked.
Like I said I check the switch with ohm meter and it seemed to swap polarity fine.
Checking voltage at motor leads showed +11.5/-11.5 when switch was made in both directions but may not had the amperage to move motor due to parasitic bleed or weak contact.
Tech II
09-30-2017, 12:29 PM
Good work on solving the problem.....
Just a little info.....whenever you are testing high current circuits like motors, actuators, etc., you should use a test light, not a meter...reason being there is no working current used....a meter just shows polarity and voltage on an open circuit....it does not show voltage on a working circuit....for example if you open a circuit, that has a high resistance element in it, and you apply a voltmeter to the open circuit, it shows a voltage of 12 volts(battery voltage)....but if you insert a low resistance test light instead of a meter, that test light will hardly light(even though the meter showed 12 volts) because most of the voltage drop will be across the high resistance element and very little across the low resistance test light......
Same thing happened probably with your meter on the test of the harness...pressing the switch in both directions showed enough voltage.....but if instead, you attached a test light to the harness, and you moved the switch, the test light would have been bright in one direction, and dim or not lit at all, in the other direction, due to a voltage drop across one of the switch contacts....
Just a little info.....whenever you are testing high current circuits like motors, actuators, etc., you should use a test light, not a meter...reason being there is no working current used....a meter just shows polarity and voltage on an open circuit....it does not show voltage on a working circuit....for example if you open a circuit, that has a high resistance element in it, and you apply a voltmeter to the open circuit, it shows a voltage of 12 volts(battery voltage)....but if you insert a low resistance test light instead of a meter, that test light will hardly light(even though the meter showed 12 volts) because most of the voltage drop will be across the high resistance element and very little across the low resistance test light......
Same thing happened probably with your meter on the test of the harness...pressing the switch in both directions showed enough voltage.....but if instead, you attached a test light to the harness, and you moved the switch, the test light would have been bright in one direction, and dim or not lit at all, in the other direction, due to a voltage drop across one of the switch contacts....
senna94
09-30-2017, 12:57 PM
Wont be making that mistake again.
Thanks
Thanks
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