96 chevy 2500 cheyenne

Hey I'm purchasing a new truck tomorrow. I'm just trying to figure out what it's capable of and if there are any issues that are common with these trucks. I used to have a 94 2500 with the 454 and auto, how will this truck compare? It has the 5.7 and a manual. Also is it difficult to put in a gooseneck? That was the only thing that made me hesitate is I need to put one in so I can pull the horsetrailer. I'm just nervous about putting holes in the bed etc. Does anyone know the max tow capacity, I don't believe the 6k lbs that Google comes up with seeing as I pulled 20k with my f150 (I know that's too much but I didn't have anything bigger at the time)

Thanks, hope yall can add some info to my overflowing brain.

1. The Vortec 5.7 will have similar power although somewhat less torque than the 7.4L you used to have. Given the difference in transmissions, and--maybe--a difference in axle gear ratio, I don't know how different it will drive compared to your old truck.

2. Common problems: Intake gaskets, the fuel injection "spider", and be sure to inspect the distributor. First Guess: The intake gaskets and spider were already repaired by the previous owner because they typically didn't last this many years.

3. Small-block truck pulling a gooseneck? You better hope for advantageous rear axle gears.

4. 2500 stopping a gooseneck? You'd better hope it's not a light-duty 2500. If it has six-lug wheels, you might want to reconsider (or at least verify the trailer weight won't exceed the pulling/carrying capacity.)

I pulled a 36 foot gooseneck with a backhoe on it with the 7.4 all the time so I know the truck itself can handle it, just wasn't sure about the engine. It is an 8 lug wheel pattern so it's the heavier duty 2500. As for problems I have my first one, no issues driving it home nor any this morning. But driving back home after work everything seemed fine but 30 seconds after I shut it off it sounded and looked like it puked coolant from the radiator (just installed) I located a male hose fitting under the filler cap that's obviously where it's coming from, and there is no hose attached. However I have no clue what would be connected there, or where the hose went since it was fine for the first 100 miles I had it. I'm also asking the people I bought it from who are the ones that replaced the radiator. Hoping they'll reply soon.

The nipple under the rad cap should connect to the plastic overflow bottle via a rubber/plastic hose. Find the overflow bottle, find the hose, connect it to the nipple using some kind of clamp.

Top off the coolant level in the bottle to the "Full Cold" mark, re-check when hot. GM has suggested that the bottles in various vehicles be over-filled to combat deterioration of the Dex-Cool coolant, but your vehicle may not have Dex-Cool antifreeze, and your vehicle may or may not be one of the ones that GM recommends overfilling.

"I" do not have much problem with lightly over-filling the recovery bottle no matter what GM says.

There's already one going to the overflow from the radiator cap. I'm assuming the radiator just has an extra since it's a replacement. I'll plug it seeing as it already has one and see what that does.

Woo new problem with the truck. I know Chevys from the 90s have electrical issues but what would cause it to be ok during normal weather but have problems when it's humid. I love in colorado so humidity is not normal, but if it's heavy rain or very humid sometimes the engine won't crank, sometimes it dies when I press the clutch, and for the first time, 3 days ago while it was pouring (2inches in 12 hours) it wouldn't even crank. Today it was dry and I took it 400 miles with no issues whatsoever. Also every now and then all my gauges die, they usually come back within 30 seconds. Is there any ideas/fixes or just crappy 21 year old Chevy electronics? And 0 money can be put towards fixing this at this time as I have another 4x4 to deal with the muddy county roads when it rains.


Random thought, when did gm come out with the 8.1? Looking for something with a bigger engine, 35k lbs gross was toooooo much for the 5.7 and I can't afford a diesel... honestly I don't know what a 8.1 is rated for anyway. I ask because I like the 94ish through 98ish Chevys but he'll, even the 454 may or may not be strong enough.

The 8.1 can be made to produce power...but it's really expensive.

You're better off hot-rodding a 454. All the parts you could want are readily available. START with the muffler and exhaust system. The Vortec 7.4 is known to have an extremely restrictive muffler.

I like the 454/know the engine pretty well so id prefer that just didn't know if there were advantages of the 8.1. How hard is it to find a 454 with a manual transmission? I'm also curious if y'all think the issues with my current truck is easily fixable or since I need something bigger just work my way to a 454?

"Won't crank when it's humid or raining" is going to depend on whether there's power to the "S" terminal at the starter solenoid when you turn the key to "start".

If there's healthy power--12 volts or more--then the problem is in the starter motor or solenoid.

If there's no or weak power, the problem is in the vehicle harness including the ignition switch, and power source all the way back to the battery.

Hopefully it's not the harness, I'd be lost. I'll check out the starter and hope it's there.

Well it rained today, figured I'd check the truck. Starter/solenoid both had power. Engine wouldn't crank, came back 20 minutes later and it started right up. That would be the harness then right? How expensive are they, and can someone that works 80 hours a week do it in a day or 2 and still get sleep ha?

Well it rained today, figured I'd check the truck. Starter/solenoid both had power. Engine wouldn't crank, came back 20 minutes later and it started right up. That would be the harness then right?
The starter "S" terminal had 12+ volts with the key turned to "Start"? Starter motor didn't crank?

You need a replacement solenoid, or starter, or both. Easiest to replace both.

How expensive are they, and can someone that works 80 hours a week do it in a day or 2 and still get sleep ha?
A starter is anywhere from $40 to $300 depending on the vehicle and the desired replacement starter/solenoid assembly.

Last time I pitched a starter motor into my '88 K1500, I paid about $60 for the starter motor and new starter motor bolts, and it took me about three hours to deal with some aftermarket wiring and heat-shielding in addition to bolting the starter in place. A straight-up ordinary replacement starter might cost about the same, probably would not need different bolts or heat shield, and wouldn't need the wiring changed. One hour from the time you jack it up until you test-drive it. Add 1/2 hour if you need to play games shimming the starter. Not likely...but possible.

Again, what you pay for a starter depends on what you want. It might be that the starter you need is more expensive than what I put on. I took a quick look at www.napaonline.com and saw that their suggestions for starters for a '96 K2500 ranged from $75 to nearly $250.

Keep in mind that "new" starters will almost certainly be Communist Chinese junk. I go out of my way to buy rebuilt DELCO starters.

Everything to the starter had power, my reader doesn't show how much power but did show as it being there. It's raining right now, same thing, it shows power but won't crank at all. The inconsistency is what was making me think harness now. Or am I overthinking a bad starter?

Sun came out, started right up, went on a 25 mile round trip for beer, it stalled at 65 mph 3 times, all the times once I pushed the clutch it turned back on without me having to turn the key..... is it possessed? Seriously though, I'm at a loss for words about it. And when I say stalled, I mean all electronics dead, no engine noise, no power steering or brakes, then I push the clutch, engine noise came back and everything worked like a champ. Till it happened 2 more times.

Everything to the starter had power, my reader doesn't show how much power but did show as it being there.
"Reader"??? What is a "reader"? You need to be testing with a voltmeter.

Are you testing the "S" terminal WITH THE KEY TURNED TO "START"? There will be no power at the "S" terminal in "Accessory", "Off", or "Run". There will ONLY be power at the "S" terminal in "Start".

It's raining right now, same thing, it shows power but won't crank at all. The inconsistency is what was making me think harness now. Or am I overthinking a bad starter?
Are you testing the "S" terminal WITH THE KEY TURNED TO "START"?

Sun came out, started right up, went on a 25 mile round trip for beer, it stalled at 65 mph 3 times, all the times once I pushed the clutch it turned back on without me having to turn the key..... is it possessed? Seriously though, I'm at a loss for words about it. And when I say stalled, I mean all electronics dead, no engine noise, no power steering or brakes, then I push the clutch, engine noise came back and everything worked like a champ. Till it happened 2 more times.
Have you cleaned/tightened the battery connections?

I would consider a faulty ignition switch and/or loose connector at the ignition switch or bulkhead connector.

My reader is a volt meter, but it's broken so it doesn't show volts, only the light that shows power is present comes on anymore. Hopefully just seeing power would be enough to rule something out, or diagnose. But yes I had my fiance keep the key turned while I checked for power. I havnt pulled the cables off the battery but they are tight and appear clean. I don't have a whole lot of time available to devote to this as im a rancher that works sun up to sun down. I was thinking it could be a wiring issue in the steering column, the plastic cover is missing and you can see where keys or a key chain hit the unprotected connections and got burnt. I've known about that since I bought it but it hasn't come to me that maybe that would be it.

My reader is a volt meter, but it's broken so it doesn't show volts, only the light that shows power is present comes on anymore. Hopefully just seeing power would be enough to rule something out, or diagnose. But yes I had my fiance keep the key turned while I checked for power. I havnt pulled the cables off the battery but they are tight and appear clean. I don't have a whole lot of time available to devote to this as im a rancher that works sun up to sun down. I was thinking it could be a wiring issue in the steering column, the plastic cover is missing and you can see where keys or a key chain hit the unprotected connections and got burnt. I've known about that since I bought it but it hasn't come to me that maybe that would be it.

Maybe the starter relay? It's a cheap part and a bad one could cause the symptoms. At least in my head it could cause the intermittent problems and now no cranking or anything at all.

My last 3 replys havnt worked for some reason so hopefully this one will. Anyway, my reader is a volt meter but it's broken so doesn't show exact volts, just that there's power present. I went ahead and pulled the starter. Starter and the solenoid tested ok. On the solenoid, the bigger bolt seems loose. I can put the nut on tight and that holds it in place well, but it's loose with no nut. Could that be it? If not I'm hoping it's the relay, if it's not that I'm sol because I just don't have the time to trade wires etc.

The relay is actually a part of the solenoid. When the 'S' terminal is energized, this draws the solenoid plunger up to engage the bendix drive with the flexplate. Also, it causes a disk within the relay portion to engage terminals that supply power from the battery to the starter. If this disk is burned or pitted, which is likely, then you will hear it 'click' but not turn over the engine. If this is what's happening, replace the solenoid. If there is no 'click' when you turn the key, then make sure that power is getting to the 'S' terminal on the solenoid, WHILE the key is in the Start position.

If there is no power at the S terminal while the key is in Start, then check the bulkhead connector for the wiring harness (big bolt in the center, usually a 10mm), unbolt to separate the engine harness from the bulkhead connector and then reattach. Also check operation of the ignition switch as this may be the source of your frustration as well.

the ignition coil is common for cracking on models from 95-98, at least in my experience. so when its wet (raining out) or humid, the moisture gets into it and they won't start. try a hair dryer pointed at the ignition coil, or compressed air whatever is available for about 5 mins. when you say it won't crank when its wet or humid, does it turn over at all or just click when turning the key? And the extra fitting on the radiator under the fill neck is common on aftermarket rads, most of the time there is a cap and a clamp on them out of the box, its just a manufacturing thing so the don't have to change there machine when producing so many different radiators.

for some reason it didn't come up with a second page for me or half the replies about the starter testing, until after I posted so maybe my info is going to be useless.

There is a "STARTER RELAY' in the underhood fuse block that sends 12v to "s" term on solenoid.

Try some basic trouble shooting:
1. When it won't crank, turn on the headlights and try again. Post back how the headlights respond.
2. Just for grins change 2 fuses. 1) In the underhood fuse block, IGN A Fuse #6 40a. 2) In the Instrument Panel fuse block, CRANK Fuse #8 10a.

I'm gonna try that troubleshooting when I get home. Thanks

Well guys and possible gals. After doing the troubleshooting, I got a little drunk... still am... but I found the issue in my more relaxed state. So, traced wires for 2ish hours, jiggling everything that looked iffy. And finally I came to the steering column. Where I mentioned previously that the plastic had been removed from my steering column and my keys were sparking on whatever that piece is below them. (I'm a bad mechanic, all I'm good for is throwing new parts at stuff) anyway, I turned the key and nothing. Then using my left hand I wiggled the wires and turned the keys and the beast roared once again... I repeated that cycles 3 more times and am 95% sure that's where my problem is. My new question is what is that part called and on a difficulty scale, remember I'm a rancher not a mechanic, how easy of a fix is that. Thanks y'all I have a car again... fairly urgent seeing as the wife left last week with the other car. But the good ol' vortec made me smile once again.

Just in case someone has the same issues I did, I know this post was not the most informative as far as what actually was wrong. The part is the ignition switch, took me 30 minutes to change. Would have been 5 but the screws are very small 12 point heads so I had to use needle nose pliers and it was a long process. I can give a complete step by step for anyone that's curious on how to replace it.