Pushrod ripped through rocker

http://i68.tinypic.com/34jeqrq.jpg

Do i need to assume the valve is bent or the seat is messed up and i need to remove the head? (groan)
the rod is all damaged scratched where it pushed through the metal. Do i need a new one and i know when you remove them they need to go back in the right order. if i get a new one how can i guarantee that?
This is on an 03 century. has new head gaskets a lim gaskets. can run smooth until i started getting misfire in cylinder 6. I opened the valve cover and the rocker on 6 was loose. i thought ity stripped out like these heads are prone to but it wasn't. I didn't look at the other rockers just tightened up , closed up and started. it ran real rough. So i figured it was stripped even though it didn't seem like it. Reopened the valve cover and 6 was real tight and then my eye caught this.

That's pretty severe. At least we now know which one is harder.

If you have access, install a valve spring compressor (lever type) and see if the valve will move. Make sure the piston is clear. If the valve is not sticking or bent, I'd try a new rocker and push rod. Be aware that the intake and exhaust push rods are different lengths. Once assembled, roll the engine over by hand to check for binding and interference.

If yo don't have access to a valve spring compressor you can move a rocker and push rod from an adjacent cylinder to the one in question, and roll the engine over by hand slowly to check for interference, valve binding, or other problems.

Of course if you determine a valve is stuck or damaged the head will have to be removed.

If this is on #6 your luck is better than mine. It's almost never a front cylinder for me.

I've heard of a broken cam shaft doing this--does engine turn over and all valves move?

I have never seen a lever type . I guess I can get one but need to figure out how to use it. I have the screw down. Just worried that the valve will slide down into the piston and I will be forced. To remove the head. Anything to do to prevent that.
What is the procedure to roll over the engine by hand?

Engine runs car drives but rough

So, someone has been in there before? When were the head gaskets done?

Was the valve train making a noise, prior to misfire?

I did the head gaskets around October time and car was running perfectly till the loose rocker arm. Just want to clarify this arm isn't tbe same one as the one that came loose.

I got a new pushrod and rocker
what is the procedure to roll over the engine by hand?
lift the wheels, neutral, remove belt..ect?
the machine shop that gave the rocker said the lifter might be jammed in the up position. Do i need to remove the head to change if true?

I got a new pushrod and rocker
what is the procedure to roll over the engine by hand?
lift the wheels, neutral, remove belt..ect?

Nothing really.......with everything off, in park. just attach a long wrench to the crank bolt and rotate the engine clockwise(facing the belt side of the engine).....it makes it easier to rotate the engine if the spark plugs are removed....


the machine shop that gave the rocker said the lifter might be jammed in the up position. Do i need to remove the head to change if true?

You better hope not........with the valve cover off, install the push rod on top of the lifter......have someone manually rotate the engine by hand....with light downward pressure on the push rod, you should feel that lifter easily move up and down, as the cam rotates......if it doesn't, and it is some how jammed, you could have block problems.....

As far as replacing a lifter, you have to remove the lower intake, not the head......

Real pain to remove the back spark plugs so will skip that.
So I need to lift the wheels?
Remove the belt?
But leave in park?

Bigger problem is the piece of metal that came off the rocker- the rounded half circle that the pushrod sits in. It is somewhere in there. I will try with a magnetic rod . Any other ideas?

On a positive note, the judging by the size of the missing section it is too large to pass through the oil pump pickup screen. If the chunk makes it to the oil pan it should remain there, and hopefully get caught on your magnetic oil drain plug (hint-hint).

Isn't inside the valve cover already past the oil screen? Can't it get through the holes into the block. Should I feel around with a magnetic rod?
BTW did I get the steps for turning over the engine by hand right?

Use a magnet if you can to sweep out the debris as much as possible. If there is anything left it will likely fall through the drain holes in the heads and valley back into the oil pan, just like the oil drains as it returns to the pan. Anything that falls into the oil pan it should remain there as the oil pump screen will not allow larger particles to get drawn into the pump and circulated through the rest of the engine.

As for rotating the engine, when the transmission is placed in Park the engine should turn freely. There is no reason to raise the front wheels or do anything else. Of course you'll remember that the engine is free to idle when in Park without being connected to the drive wheels.

Carefully and slowly turn the crank pulley bolt clockwise with the proper tool. Remove as many spark plugs as you can conveniently to allow the engine to rotate without fighting compression. The resistance should be relatively constant through two full revolutions at a minimum to prove that the valve train is not binding. If it turns by hand without interference, remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine with the starter for several revolutions to verify that nothing is binding or interfering.

I found the pieces using a magnetic rod fished around in the oil sitting sitting in the top of the head.