Aoshima 1/24 Rocket Bunny 86

It's been about 10 years since I last built a model. I got an airbrush as a gift, so figured I would try it out.

here's the kit
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1480/24424202042_4d82df1193_c.jpg

first piece i started out with was the exhaust. Going for burnt titanium look.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1690/24236927540_5979248e8c_c.jpg

primered the chassis
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1564/24450138501_4a73c73630_c.jpg

this is tamiya clear red on gold. looks uneven because some areas masked off, and others only lightly coated as I will be painting it another color.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1488/24164715789_a063df94c1_c.jpg

more to come later

nice. I just did this kit myself (it also was my first modelling project since 15 years) and I am looking forward to follow the progress on your build.

Thanks. I saw yours too, nice work! I am a bit surprised there was no engine in this kit.

i like the color you chose (clear red over gold). i've built one too, though it was a special version from a local hobby shop (they became aoshima's exclusive distributor) - it was the stock 86 (with engine - best car GT 103), then in another box were the rocket bunny parts. the kit is a joy to build, although i didn't like the window masks as paint bled under it (not sure why though, surface was clean and i pressed down the edges a couple of times).

a few updates.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1533/24687779171_234f8695b9_c.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1613/24781289765_3efdb275ee_c.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1678/24413619249_637dd64ac7_c.jpg

finally done with the chassis.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1518/24456585559_8ebf7329ae_c.jpg

The chassis was painted really well, keep us posted.

looks fantastic!

Thanks guys. started some work on the body. Requires cutting the fenders to fit the widebody.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1513/24510033889_326a7d3826_c.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1579/24510035129_a2fa75dbf3_c.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1653/24582174280_2532c8b4d3_c.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1585/24249478994_0b48217669_c.jpg

Thanks for sharing how you went about cutting the fenders. One day I'll get this kit lol

ok, question for anybody about clear coating:

I used to clear my models with future floor wax, but bought tamiya x-13 clear this time. I'm reading that I should either spray it about 15 mins after my color coat, or wait 30 days as the difference in drying can cause cracking in the clear coat.

My question has to do with decals. I plan to apply color coat, decal, then clear coat. But if I do it that way, I can't imaging it being a good idea applying decal on fresh paint? Am I pretty much only left with the option of apply clear after waiting 30 days?

Also it seems that consensus is that a couple of light coats followed by heavy coat should be fine. Thoughts?

Nice work so far!

X-13 is acrylic metallic blue. Do you mean TS-13, synthetic clear lacquer in a spray can?

I should either spray it about 15 mins after my color coat, or wait 30 days

That regimen applies only to enamel paints. Lacquers and acrylics don't have that limitation. The one most important thing you should know about TS13 is that it is very "hot"- it contains a significant amount of lacquer solvent. It can produce terrific results, but it requires care and patience. Take plenty of time between coats (hours or days), and build it up in many light coats. Do not spray it in heavy, wet coats- especially over decals or metallic paint. Much better six or eight light coats over several days than one or two wet coats.

Spray one or two light mist coats, and give them overnight to dry. Apply your decals, and let them sit again overnight. Then start building up light mist coats over top of the decals. Apply a light coat, wait an hour or two, then another mist coat. Once you have a few solid layers safely built over your decals, you can apply two mist coats at a time. But if you let this stuff go on wet, it will eat your decals- and possibly the paint as well.

Mist coats generally dry with a bit of a haze. This doesn't matter at all except for the final coat. Spray the final coat just like all the others, and then let the body sit for a week to outgas. Then take some Tamiya coarse compound and a soft cloth and polish away the haze.

Nice work so far!

X-13 is acrylic metallic blue. Do you mean TS-13, synthetic clear lacquer in a spray can?



That regimen applies only to enamel paints. Lacquers and acrylics don't have that limitation. The one most important thing you should know about TS13 is that it is very "hot"- it contains a significant amount of lacquer solvent. It can produce terrific results, but it requires care and patience. Take plenty of time between coats (hours or days), and build it up in many light coats. Do not spray it in heavy, wet coats- especially over decals or metallic paint. Much better six or eight light coats over several days than one or two wet coats.

Spray one or two light mist coats, and give them overnight to dry. Apply your decals, and let them sit again overnight. Then start building up light mist coats over top of the decals. Apply a light coat, wait an hour or two, then another mist coat. Once you have a few solid layers safely built over your decals, you can apply two mist coats at a time. But if you let this stuff go on wet, it will eat your decals- and possibly the paint as well.

Mist coats generally dry with a bit of a haze. This doesn't matter at all except for the final coat. Spray the final coat just like all the others, and then let the body sit for a week to outgas. Then take some Tamiya coarse compound and a soft cloth and polish away the haze.

Sorry, yes TS-13 is what I mean't. But thank you for the quick reply, I'll give that a try and report back!

did you use masking tape for the underchassis, or masking putty?

did you use masking tape for the underchassis, or masking putty?

I used masking tape

update: few pics below. Although I need some further advise. The paint right now is ok, but has slight orange peel and a bit dull. I plan to spray clear on top, but I'm really tempted sand the color coat before clear. I've heard different things, some people say never do that, some say it's ok as long as you know what you're doing.

Is that a good idea? Or should I just wait to compound/polish the clear coat at the end?

gold base
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1671/24675411170_5eaa95a21b_c.jpg

clear red over the gold. This one in direct light
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1466/24340322154_31d70a4e29_c.jpg

this is probably a more accurate representation of the color
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1716/24344060523_f6e04edac1_c.jpg

Looks awesome, great colour!!! Id clearcoat it first then sand it back, just incase you sand too much & reveal the gold colour through the red. & then clearcoat it again & polish it

Great looking color. But I am definitely with da_ashman on this.

Id clearcoat it first then sand it back, just incase you sand too much & reveal the gold colour through the red. & then clearcoat it again & polish it

Candy colors (clear color over a metallic base) are horrifically unforgiving. :uhoh: If you make a mistake, there is no way at all to hide it and no way to correct it. Best thing is just to clearcoat it. If the color is not so bad that you want to strip it right now, leave it alone and clearcoat it.

Got this tip from someone on here. outlined the lens in black sharpie to give it a slightly more realistic look
(top is normal headlight, bottom outlined in black)
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1637/24952543200_cc8fb2c820_c.jpg

painted the tail lights.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1493/24794033619_f142248009_c.jpg

Assembly.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1620/24952405530_fe34a48b87_c.jpg

and pretty much done... will post better pics later!
https://c2.staticflickr.com/2/1703/24621212123_221cfecdff_c.jpg

Looks awesome, great colour!!! Id clearcoat it first then sand it back, just incase you sand too much & reveal the gold colour through the red. & then clearcoat it again & polish it

Great looking color. But I am definitely with da_ashman on this.

Candy colors (clear color over a metallic base) are horrifically unforgiving. :uhoh: If you make a mistake, there is no way at all to hide it and no way to correct it. Best thing is just to clearcoat it. If the color is not so bad that you want to strip it right now, leave it alone and clearcoat it.

Thanks for the tip guys! Definitely helped. I think I probably could have spent more time sanding/polishing the body, but I'm satisfied

Wow !! Super job!!!

I like the way the painting turned out!