Clutch issue on 92' Escort GT

I have a 92' Escort GT and the clutch started to act up, it's not burnt cause it is fairly new. The clutch pedal feels slightly looser when pushing it to the floor, the feeling like a cable snapped or something?

I'm pretty sure the clutch is a hydraulic one, not 100%
is there a hydraulic reservoir that somewhere that might be low?

I'd like to fix this myself, cause I'm a student and cannot afford to bring it to a shop. :banghead:

ANY help would be highly appreciated, Thanks!

I'm not directly familiar with that vehicle, but it sounds like a hydraulic clutch low on fluid. Look under the hood on the firewall, where the master cylinder for the brakes would be only farther in from the brake master cylinder.

I am quite familiar with the hydraulic clutches on pickup trucks of that year. The lid on the clutch master cylinder just turns(screws off). There is a rubber cup under the cap that needs lifted out before checking or adding brake fluid. Yes brake fluid to the clutch hydraulic system.

I am going to check the parts layout for your vehicle on the rockauto parts site and if I figure anymore out I will post back.

I looked at the rockauto site and it looks like that car has a strange looking master cylinder. So I'm not sure how you add fluid to it. The good news is, it looks like it has an external slave cylinder, so it shouldn't take much labor to replace. The slave cylinder is usually what goes bad when the system starts leaking fluid. It could be the master cylinder though, still not bad to replace.

Maybe a fellow student at college is in to mechanics somewhat, if you're not, and can help you out. Good luck.

(From the internet) but this is exactly what it looks like, wont go into reverse and 1st on the first try.http://www.smartautosearch.com/SellMyCar/GetImg?imgGuid=8d9c749c-392c-4f27-881d-c0c0bd347ff4

I recently replaced the clutch master cylinder on my daughter's 94LX 5-speed. Shifting required pushing the clutch pedal all the way down, and hoping it would let you go into first or reverse. If not, letting the clutch pedal all the way and quickly pushing it back down again would make it shift okay that one time.

In removing the old clutch master cylinder I saw fluid leakage from the nose of the cylinder - looking at it from inside the car. By the way; unbolting that cylinder is easier if you take out the driver's seat, put down a sheet of plywood, and lie on your back with your head next to the pedals. On this car it had a nut taking a 12mm socket, of the kind having a u-joint as part of the socket.

Anyway, after the usual slow bleeding process, the clutch now works normally. The bleeding process involved first squeezing the rubber hose that runs from the side of the brake master cylinder reservoir down to the clutch master cylinder, to get the air bubbles out of that line, and ensure the clutch cylinder had fluid coming to it - not air. I kept squeezing the hose every five minutes while I did other work.
For bleeding the slave cylinder, I opened the bleeder screw 1/4 turn, and pushed a clear vinyl tube onto the bleeder screw, with the length of the tube coming up where I could see it from the driver's seat with the hood open. Then I worked the clutch pedal till fluid was visible in the tube, and giving it a minute or so between pushes on the pedal, I watched until I didnt see any more bubble comings up form the slave cylinder. There was slight seepage from the threads of the bleeder screw, but the brake fluid in the vinyl tube keep any air from getting into the slave cylinder. Of course I had to keep topping up the fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir. I think the whole bleeding process took 3o minutes.