95 pa a/c problems
Cfrye66
08-13-2015, 08:58 PM
I have a 95 pa base, the control assembly doesn't light up at all. I replaced it and it's the same. The blower motor runs all the time on defrost. My question is could it be the blower resistor.
I would greatly appreciate if anyone has any idea.
I would greatly appreciate if anyone has any idea.
brcidd
08-14-2015, 05:00 AM
The blower runs all the time and defrost--does blower shut off when car is shut off?
Defrost means a lack of vacuum control- as in a vacuum leak-
you say it is a base model- does it have auto temp control? you stated display does not light up, so I'll assume you do- (but on a base model?)
Most common problem is the vacuum manifold port on the a/c controller behind the glove box- it needs to be bypassed if the vacuum leak is there.
Temp display not working is very common- normally a bad solder joint inside control head- take it apart and reheat all power points.
If blower runs all the time and runs down your battery when car is off- then blower resistor module in HVAC box underhood needs replaced- very common failure mode.
Defrost means a lack of vacuum control- as in a vacuum leak-
you say it is a base model- does it have auto temp control? you stated display does not light up, so I'll assume you do- (but on a base model?)
Most common problem is the vacuum manifold port on the a/c controller behind the glove box- it needs to be bypassed if the vacuum leak is there.
Temp display not working is very common- normally a bad solder joint inside control head- take it apart and reheat all power points.
If blower runs all the time and runs down your battery when car is off- then blower resistor module in HVAC box underhood needs replaced- very common failure mode.
Tech II
08-14-2015, 10:42 AM
If the blower motor runs all the time, even with the key off, and you have auto temp, then it's the blower control module....
Cfrye66
08-14-2015, 03:46 PM
The blower shuts off when you turn the key off.
I just replaced the controller. The blower runs even when you unplug the controller
If car isn't running there shouldn't be any vacuum should there?
I just replaced the controller. The blower runs even when you unplug the controller
If car isn't running there shouldn't be any vacuum should there?
Cfrye66
08-14-2015, 03:48 PM
It is auto temperature
brcidd
08-14-2015, 05:54 PM
Since you replaced the controller (underdash behind glove box) - how did the vacuum port manifold look? You had to unplug it to change controllers- yet I suspect it is in this manifold that your problem lies- I bypass them almost always when vacuum failure occurs.
And no, there is limited vacuum left after engine shuts off- based on vacuum canister size- to be sure, run the engine while testing.
And no, there is limited vacuum left after engine shuts off- based on vacuum canister size- to be sure, run the engine while testing.
Cfrye66
08-14-2015, 06:58 PM
I didn't replace the one behind glovebox it was the heater-A/C control assembly in dash
Cfrye66
08-14-2015, 07:03 PM
The control assembly won't even light up,and can't turn it on or off or air,heat or anything
Cfrye66
08-14-2015, 07:20 PM
I didn't replace the one behind glovebox,I replaced the heater-A/C control assembly.
The one behind glovebox,is that the ECM?
The one behind glovebox,is that the ECM?
brcidd
08-14-2015, 09:46 PM
The one in the dash is called the control head.
The one behind the glove box is the a/c controller, or sometimes called the a/c computer-- definitely NOT the ecm. Ecms don't use vacuum lines. or have rods connected to temperature doors.....this is the one that I highly suspect has the input vacuum leak (purple hose) at the vacuum manifold into the a/c controller. The nipples break easily after they age and sometimes turn to soft rubber mush- this is why I bypass the manifold- go inside the controller and splice rubber hoses (5 total) around the manifold and into their respected lines outside the box. If you have air on only defrost- then I'm 99% sure the manifold is your issue-- new a/c controllers are $400+ - rubber hose is $1 - it is your choice.
The one behind the glove box is the a/c controller, or sometimes called the a/c computer-- definitely NOT the ecm. Ecms don't use vacuum lines. or have rods connected to temperature doors.....this is the one that I highly suspect has the input vacuum leak (purple hose) at the vacuum manifold into the a/c controller. The nipples break easily after they age and sometimes turn to soft rubber mush- this is why I bypass the manifold- go inside the controller and splice rubber hoses (5 total) around the manifold and into their respected lines outside the box. If you have air on only defrost- then I'm 99% sure the manifold is your issue-- new a/c controllers are $400+ - rubber hose is $1 - it is your choice.
Cfrye66
08-15-2015, 09:40 AM
Does the vacuum manifold operate the control head then, because the control head doesn't work at all? I examined the manifold and it appears to be in very good shape
brcidd
08-15-2015, 05:25 PM
Did you take the manifold off (unscrew the nut and slip manifold apart?) The vacuum supply (purple) nipple will shear off inside the manifold- can't see it without removing manifold. And no, the control head is not run by vacuum.
Cfrye66
08-16-2015, 03:40 PM
I took nut off and slipped manifold off, vacuum is good. I unplugged the electrical connection to the controller and repluged it in, air blew at floor first then vents then went back to defrost.
I think my problem is that I can't get the head to function,no lights at all,head is new.
I think my problem is that I can't get the head to function,no lights at all,head is new.
Cfrye66
08-17-2015, 04:21 PM
Updated: problems solved, when I put a new head on it was bad , I took the old one apart and did some soldering on it and got it to light up. Will send head back to be reworked
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