Need new A/C compressor. Suggestions?

The A/c compressor is shot in my 2001 Suburban. Any recommendations for a replacement kit. I don't want to spend a ton on a compressor that will require new mounts, etc. Just plug and play. It is the low mounted compressor and I have rear A/C with separate controls.

What do you mean by shot?

If it has launched internally, you not only need a compressor, but you need a possible flush.....possibly an external filter....and a new orifice tube....

Generally, compressors don't come with mounts, they are transferred to the new one...

What do you mean by shot?

If it has launched internally, you not only need a compressor, but you need a possible flush.....possibly an external filter....and a new orifice tube....

Generally, compressors don't come with mounts, they are transferred to the new one...

The compressor is broken. Any particular model or brand? I mentioned mounts because some have suggested Sanden compressors which may not work with the stock mount.

The compressor is broken. Any particular model or brand? I mentioned mounts because some have suggested Sanden compressors which may not work with the stock mount.

if the compressor is not working because it is internally worn/damaged then your idea of just replacing is not the way this is handled.

much work and knowledge is needed , to do this job and not waste your effort and cash. You get a auto ac book and do some study on this or have a auto ac shop do it.

with your comments about this IMO , go to repair shop. you will save money and be cool..

on the type compressor you use , the same one that was in there.

if the compressor is not working because it is internally worn/damaged then your idea of just replacing is not the way this is handled.

much work and knowledge is needed , to do this job and not waste your effort and cash. You get a auto ac book and do some study on this or have a auto ac shop do it.

with your comments about this IMO , go to repair shop. you will save money and be cool..

on the type compressor you use , the same one that was in there.

I will be having a repair shop do it. After further research, I have read that it is important to find out why the compressor failed in the first place. It seems that it is usually do to restrictions, leaks. I needed to add freon each of the previous years. Should I also be changing the condenser, expansion valve, lines, and/or anything else besides the compressor, receiver/dryer, and orifice?

My 2001 compressor failed. It ws also breaking the compressor belt brackets. Took it to many shops all to no avail. The compressor shot particles throughout the system. I replaced EVERYTHING and then had to replace the orifice tube twice and flush it twice. That was 2010. Now it still runs cold.

In August I replaced the compressor on the 2005 Yukon Denali, was still cooling great at 150K, but compressor "slugging" caused belt breakage every two weeks, and associated noise at 1800 rpm. Since this was still cooling great, turned by hand readily, and ran without noise except for the occasional slugging, figured to just replace the compressor, no flush, left orifice tube and accumulator untouched. I bought a brand-new OEM Denso compressor from RockAuto.com for about $210, there are models for dual AC and for front AC.

It has worked fine so far, no slugging. I also replaced the tensioner for the small separate AC serpentine belt.

In August I replaced the compressor on the 2005 Yukon Denali, was still cooling great at 150K, but compressor "slugging" caused belt breakage every two weeks, and associated noise at 1800 rpm. Since this was still cooling great, turned by hand readily, and ran without noise except for the occasional slugging, figured to just replace the compressor, no flush, left orifice tube and accumulator untouched. I bought a brand-new OEM Denso compressor from RockAuto.com for about $210, there are models for dual AC and for front AC.

It has worked fine so far, no slugging. I also replaced the tension-er for the small separate AC serpentine belt.

hello . slugging is from too much refrigerant most times .... check that the high side is not too high.... slugging means the liquid is getting into the suction side... damages the valves of compressor.

hello . slugging is from too much refrigerant most times .... check that the high side is not too high.... slugging means the liquid is getting into the suction side... damages the valves of compressor.

j cAT - this 2005 Yukon still had the factory charge in it, worked great at 150K. There's a fall 2004 TSB from GM that describes this, due to low location of the compressor so too much oil gets into the suction side.

Bulletin No.: 03-01-38~019A

Date: September, 2004

TECHNICAL

Subject:
Underhood Rattle Noise Heard On Acceleration (Check A/C System Performance and Compressor Operation)

Models:
2003-2004 Cadillac CTS
2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV
2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche, Express, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
2002-2004 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Savana, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL
2002-2004 Commercial Upfitter Chassis Vehicles

with Air Conditioning (A/C)

This bulletin is being revised to update the service procedure and parts information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-019 (Section 01 - HVAC).

Condition

Some customers may comment about an underhood rattle noise heard on acceleration or a sudden loss of A/C system performance.

Cause

This condition may be caused by liquid slugging of the A/C compressor. This condition may cause an internal failure in the A/C compressor. The serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt may also be damaged.

Correction

Technicians are to check the A/C system performance and compressor operation using the following repair procedure:

1. Open the hood and inspect the A/C compressor for damage and to see if the compressor is seized. Verify that the serpentine belt is not damaged or missing. If the A/C compressor is seized, proceed to Step 5.

2. Perform the A/C System Performance test. Refer to the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) section of SI. Correct any performance concerns or refrigerant leaks that are found.

3. Inspect the vehicle for other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-013 for more information.

4. After all other possible sources of A/C compressor noise or performance concerns have been eliminated, only then should the A/C compressor be replaced.

5. Remove the A/C compressor. Refer to the A/C Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC section of SI.

6. Inspect the transmission cooler lines for damage due to contact from the serpentine belt. Replace the transmission cooler lines if necessary.

7. Install an inline A/C system filter. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-38-006C for more information about A/C system flushing and filter installation procedures. An A/C system flush is not to be done unless prior authorization is given by the GM Area Service Manager (in Canada, the District Service Manager).

8. Install an A/C Suction Screen. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-39-003A for more information about A/C suction screen repair recommendations and procedures.

9. Install a new A/C compressor. Refer to the Compressor Replacement procedure in the HVAC section of SI.

10. Install a new orifice tube for the front A/C system. Refer to the Expansion (Orifice) Tube Replacement procedure in SI.

11. If the vehicle is a 2003 model year Chevrolet Express or GMC Savana van, the vehicle may require a new accumulator. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-016 for more information. This bulletin refers to an updated design accumulator that may improve the performance of the A/C system.

12. Install a new serpentine belt tensioner and serpentine belt if they have been damaged due to A/C system slugging or an A/C compressor seizure. The serpentine belt tensioner may have broken stop tabs and/or a missing front cap.

13. Verify proper operation of the A/C system.

I bitched about this change in location when GM did this decades ago... every AC guy knows the compressor low means oil can get sucked back into the compressor.. then when it starts after shutdown for a long period you get the slugging..

now with a 2005 that has not been charged for a decade that would be weird though not impossible..out your way if its just a little off on the charge you will not be happy when it hits 120 DEG F out there..

slugging could be a valve problem also you do use the ac a lot more where you live 10 yrs for a compressor is good.. I had to replace the compressor on my 96 impala 2 yrs ago.. all the oil leaked out the compressor body seals failed then the compressor lost all oil over the winter when the warm weather hit the pulley snapped off.. had to do the complete flush .. with air compressor many times to get the valve metal out of the condenser.. good thing I have a license for this saved about $1000 on that one..

I also installed the "Deslugger" timer that won MVAC innovation award for 2014, cost me $38 from Rock Auto. If your system is already slugging, it won't help. Plugs right into GM. See http://www.4s.com/Marketing%20Programs-The%20Deslugger/Content.aspx

I also installed the "Deslugger" timer that won MVAC innovation award for 2014, cost me $38 from Rock Auto. If your system is already slugging, it won't help. Plugs right into GM. See http://www.4s.com/Marketing%20Programs-The%20Deslugger/Content.aspx

that is a great tip for this issue on these low mounted compressors.

After reading your post again, I am just saying you do not install a new compressor with how you did it. filter dryer/orifice/flush/new seals on all components is required. since the compressor was locking up on you , what you did by not replacing these components and no flushing is not good practice. you change your oil and oil filter the reason is it has dirt in it particles. with an AC system same deal. more particles more wear. compressor will not last as long with a dirty system.. I have worked much larger vehicle ac systems and a lot warranty work was done to remove dirt from the new vehicles ac systems which was the reason we had ac failures. I also will say even if you purchased this 2005 new it is very possible the HVAC was serviced by the dealership and was over charged. I believe you purchased this in 2009/2010.

I also will say even if you purchased this 2005 new it is very possible the HVAC was serviced by the dealership and was over charged. I believe you purchased this in 2009/2010.

Yes, we purchased the 2005 Yukon in 2010, with no real history of it. The family we purchased it from had bought it at auction in Utah, had moved to Phoenix where he was a police officer with four little kids and stay at home wife. So their issue is that they couldn't afford it (and also had to move out of their home 2 weeks later). We bought it for $15K at 89K miles, had a sticker price of $61K (Yukon XL Denali).

Yes, it's possible that "someone" had serviced the AC before we got it, didn't look like it to me. GM Tech on an AC board says he only replaces accumulators when air/moisture gets into a system. I didn't want to risk breaking the orifice tube upon removal (know replacements are inexpensive), or risk a leak at that fitting. Since the compressor had not seized and turned readily by hand, and the air was still super-cold, I gambled and did things how I did; time will tell if my gamble pays off. I know that most modern condensers are not flushable, so that would've needed replacing at that time too, so would've been a much bigger job.

I've read significant stuff about R134a systems needing pretty close to the correct refrigerant charge to operate correctly, one other reason I doubt that the system was overcharged, and finally this caused the issue.

Now: help me out. I was surprised to see almost zero oil in the removed compressor, and I did rotate it trying to get out every last drop, way less than 1/2 ounce in there. So I'm also wondering if LACK of oil caused the issue, not too much. But is it even possible to lose oil without losing refrigerant? If refrigerant had been lost, I would've expected lack of cooling. I also observed no oil in my 1988 Mazda compressor when I replaced that in fall 2014 (that one I did replace drier, and back flushed its serpentine condenser and lines, that compressor had seized, was a rebuilt one 11 years old, never had to re-charge during that period, R-12).

Yes, we purchased the 2005 Yukon in 2010, with no real history of it. The family we purchased it from had bought it at auction in Utah, had moved to Phoenix where he was a police officer with four little kids and stay at home wife. So their issue is that they couldn't afford it (and also had to move out of their home 2 weeks later). We bought it for $15K at 89K miles, had a sticker price of $61K (Yukon XL Denali).

Yes, it's possible that "someone" had serviced the AC before we got it, didn't look like it to me. GM Tech on an AC board says he only replaces accumulators when air/moisture gets into a system. I didn't want to risk breaking the orifice tube upon removal (know replacements are inexpensive), or risk a leak at that fitting. Since the compressor had not seized and turned readily by hand, and the air was still super-cold, I gambled and did things how I did; time will tell if my gamble pays off. I know that most modern condensers are not flushable, so that would've needed replacing at that time too, so would've been a much bigger job.

I've read significant stuff about R134a systems needing pretty close to the correct refrigerant charge to operate correctly, one other reason I doubt that the system was overcharged, and finally this caused the issue.

Now: help me out. I was surprised to see almost zero oil in the removed compressor, and I did rotate it trying to get out every last drop, way less than 1/2 ounce in there. So I'm also wondering if LACK of oil caused the issue, not too much. But is it even possible to lose oil without losing refrigerant? If refrigerant had been lost, I would've expected lack of cooling. I also observed no oil in my 1988 Mazda compressor when I replaced that in fall 2014 (that one I did replace drier, and back flushed its serpentine condenser and lines, that compressor had seized, was a rebuilt one 11 years old, never had to re-charge during that period, R-12).

when the compressor is replaced that is a big air contamination into the ac system. when the system is opened the filter dryer is replaced that is the procedure. what also is done is the orifice is replaced or cleaned.

now on the condenser flushing these can be flushed with ac flush then you use an air compressor , no air compressor then you use a water hose.

the orifice if dirty then the condenser needs cleaning.

suck out any water with a wet vac. many pro's use water type based cleaners, also on the tranny lines/coolers with a tranny re-build.

as years go by the system looses oil. also possible there was not much when factory serviced/installed.

so the other reason you flush it all out is so you are sure you add the correct amount of oil.. normal oil removed with a old compressor is about 2 OZ of oil.. so 6OZ should be in the rest of the system but we are guessing!!!

never use the oil in a new compressor /always add your oil to it...
add oil to compressor/filter dryer/condenser spread it out over the components.. I use 9 OZ... some gets spilled ..I add leak det. dye at this time just a small amount .when its put together you then rotate the compressor a few times to lube it.. then suck it down for an hr.. shut the manifold valves then vac pump see if it holds vac for an hour..then start charging the system..use

my 1996 impala had the oil leak out of the compressor body seals .. never added much refrigerant like 8OZ every 2-3 yrs...



ac worked great then one day it locked up.. no oil in the system it was leaking only at the compressor belly...what oil was left was burned..

what I found was the rear support ear was pulling the compressor apart. this support was not adjusted correctly.. when I purchased new compressor this was noted in the instructions to make sure its locked into the position correctly ..

when the compressor is replaced that is a big air contamination into the ac system. when the system is opened the filter dryer is replaced that is the procedure. what also is done is the orifice is replaced or cleaned.


Do you know how low the humidity was that day here in Phoenix when I did that, and how the physical swap of compressor to replace the old one took just a few minutes? I know from my work (chemist) that indicating-desiccant pellets sitting in a tray don't immediately turn color when exposed to air; and pellets in a see-through tube require flow of moisture containing flow to cause them to turn color.

And GM Tech says he rarely changes the driers when he does AC work, I went with his experience. I added 6 ounces of oil to the compressor, and that dual AC system has a lot of line/volume.

Do you know how low the humidity was that day here in Phoenix when I did that, and how the physical swap of compressor to replace the old one took just a few minutes? I know from my work (chemist) that indicating-desiccant pellets sitting in a tray don't immediately turn color when exposed to air; and pellets in a see-through tube require flow of moisture containing flow to cause them to turn color.

And GM Tech says he rarely changes the driers when he does AC work, I went with his experience. I added 6 ounces of oil to the compressor, and that dual AC system has a lot of line/volume.

It is your vehicle do what you want. what I gave you on how to do this is how licensed ac techs do it. you removed old compressor put in new with guessing that 6 OZ of oil was good no vacuum then charge it with air in the system and oil .. oil absorbs air/water. with these oils the oil turns to acid with any water in the system. sure AZ area where you live does get dry at times still , you have air in the system that is not good for long term trouble free operation..

you removed old compressor put in new with guessing that 6 OZ of oil was good

There was essentially no oil in the old compressor when I drained it. Adding additional oil when replacing ANY component is a best guess/estimate unless a system was completely free of oil. In a similar situation I added 6 ounces to the Sanden compressor for the Mazda truck. I'd rather be 2 ounces over than 2 ounces under.


no vacuum then charge it with air in the system and oil .. oil absorbs air/water. with these oils the oil turns to acid with any water in the system. sure AZ area where you live does get dry at times still , you have air in the system that is not good for long term trouble free operation..


Huh ??? I have two vacuum pumps of my own, and I borrowed one from work just because it was smaller and lighter (and had ports for both R-12 and R134a). I pulled vacuum measured at 29 inch for 45 to 60 minutes, then did a 30 minute leakdown test. When I added refrigerant, I also purged the lines of air. So I don't have any air in the system, and not only is cooling great (was 105F here over the weekend), the low and high pressures read fine.

I also know that with 160K on this Yukon that Mrs. Cusser will likely "be afraid" to drive it once it hits the 200K mark on the odometer, even though it's just a number, and the Yukon is 100% rust free, nice inside, etc. It still has the dent on rear right it had when we bought it, and the driver side rear window is bolted in the up position, something with the cables, but extremely rare for anyone to sit in the rear seats anyway, and besides the windows are "up" 99.9% of the time and the AC on. So I figure maybe to try for 3 or 4 more years from it, and figure it will be worth $2K to $4K then at most.

I asked $1994 for the 1994 Suburban ($1 a year !!!) and sold it for $1800, over 220K on it.

you did not say you put the vacuum pump on it ... since you did then at least the oil will not break down. you look and study about all this on ac compressor replacing and you will see what I stated about flushing/filter dryer/orifice these are well documented component replacing at the AC compressor change.. I did this on large vehicles, on all , whenever the compressor was replaced and the filter dryer was replaced and when the system was opened . this was the required procedure where I worked.. asking some shop on how they do their ac work , its about profit and also with improper procedures they create more work.