Our Community is over 1 Million Strong. Join Us.

Stop Feeding Overpriced Junk to Your Dogs!

GET HEALTHY AFFORDABLE DOG FOOD
DEVELOPED BY THE AUTOMOTIVEFORUMS.COM FOUNDER & THE TOP AMERICAN BULLDOG BREEDER IN THE WORLD THROUGH DECADES OF EXPERIENCE. WE KNOW DOGS.
CONSUMED BY HUNDREDS OF GRAND FUTURE AMERICAN BULLDOGS FOR YEARS.
NOW AVAILABLE TO THE GENERAL PUBLIC FOR THE FIRST TIME
PROPER NUTRITION FOR ALL BREEDS & AGES
TRY GRAND FUTURE AIR DRIED BEEF DOG FOOD

2008 equinox Brake problems.


rlanders
04-23-2015, 10:19 PM
I have a 2008 equinox and I am having problems with brakes it feels like they are being applied while driving down the road and then get tighter and tighter until the car just won't move while at the same time the brake pedal gets firmer and firmer. I am getting a code c0131 on the datalink. I pulled the fuse to the abs system but the problem still persist.

Ruley73
04-24-2015, 02:00 AM
You should take a look at this thread (http://www.2carpros.com/questions/update-on-ebcm-replacement-dtc-c0131). The part that you'll find most helpful is the last post on the first page. In their case it was a bad master cylinder which was leaking into the brake booster which also had to be replaced as a result.

rlanders
04-24-2015, 12:34 PM
Thanks for the info!! I replaced the master because it was leaking inside the booster. I found this quite by accident! I cleaned the booster out as best I could, I didn't think it would be causing the problem but maybe it is!!

DeltaP
04-25-2015, 10:24 AM
Do you still have the problem? But you DO still have a problem. I wouldn't trust cleaning out the booster. Once the booster diaphragm is contaminated with brake fluid its only a matter of time until it fails. In regards to the orig problem I've read: The brake pedal position sensor relearn procedure will need to be done as well as the steering angle centering relearn. A TECH2 scan tool is needed to perform the recalibrations. HTH

rlanders
04-26-2015, 10:23 AM
Yes I am still having the problem. I am going to replace the booster today. Thanks for the info. I will check on the sensors after I finish replacing the booster.

Ruley73
04-27-2015, 11:22 PM
The service manual doesn't mention anything about recalibrating or relearning any sensors. I can't see why it would be necessary either. You're not messing with the steering system at all and the brake pedal position should remain unchanged. I've attached the instructions for replacing the power brake booster below.

52390

rlanders
04-29-2015, 01:30 PM
Thanks for the info! I got the new booster on last night, my plans are to get everything else hooked back up and bled tonight. Hopefully everything will go well.

thanks again for the info!!

rlanders
05-02-2015, 09:57 PM
I finally got everything back together and what little I've been able to drive it I think this has solved my problem. If I have any more trouble with it I'll be back. Thanks again for all the info, It really helped a lot. :smile:

rlanders
05-04-2015, 03:46 PM
Still having the problem!! Any other ideas?

Ruley73
05-04-2015, 09:15 PM
Still having the problem!! Any other ideas?

I'd check for sticking calipers. More specifically, make sure the guide pins on all the calipers are properly lubed with brake caliper grease and moving freely. If that checks out, inspect the front brake hoses. If the bracket attached to each hose that bolts to the strut is really rusty I'd suggest replacing them. A rusty bracket could be restricting the flow of brake fluid through the hose which may cause your caliper(s) to not release. The logic here is that your brake booster & master cylinder force fluid through the crimped hose when you push on the brake pedal, but when you release the pedal there's nothing to force the fluid back through in the opposite direction. The bad hose basically acts like check-valve.

Add your comment to this topic!