1997 Honda Accord changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor (4-cylinder B22F2)
CheeseHead1
12-29-2014, 06:16 PM
Doing a tune-up on a 1997 Honda Accord 4-cylinder has got to be about the easiest car to do it on. Everything is accessible and easy to work on. My car is a non-VTEC (B22F2) but I expect the VTEC (B22F1) is similar.
I don’t pretend to be a great mechanic. I am mostly self-taught and just try to save some money doing smaller projects that are accessible to the beginner/intermediate home mechanic.
I have been troubleshooting some starting issues with my Honda Accord when conditions are wet or damp outside (no spark). So over time I have replaced my spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. They were all easy to replace so I wanted to share what I have learned and some tips for other people.
Spark Plugs: the links below were helpful to me, so I won’t repeat that same information.
YouTube video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdBR967Hdv8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdBR967Hdv8)
This video is for a V-6 Accord, but the V-4 is similar.
A couple of comments that were included below the video, (1) he didn’t use a torque wrench to to tighten the new spark plugs, and (2) using anti-seize is recommended on the new spark plugs.
This article had a good summary on how to replace the spark plugs:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4507504_replace-spark-plugs-honda-accord.html (http://www.ehow.com/how_4507504_replace-spark-plugs-honda-accord.html)
Recommended spark plugs for a 1997 Honda Accord 4-cylinder B22F2
I did some reading online and it sounds like the NGK is the OEM spark plug. The V-Power is the basic plug and was recommended as the OEM plug, the part number is NGK ZFR5F-11 V-Power. These are inexpensive, around $2.50 or $3 per plug. I read some other posts that discussed using NGK Platinum or Iridium plugs for longer life. These plugs are so easy to change, I wouldn’t bother to use the more expensive plugs. If the plugs were more difficult to change, then I think the extra money for a longer life plug might be worth it.
The good folks at AutoZone recommended a magnetic spark plug socket to me, it was perfect for the job and I highly recommend purchasing it. Cost was only around $6 or $7. I think this is the tool, but just ask at the shop and make sure you tell them you want the magnetic one. The magnet works great because the spark plugs are set down into a hole. You will need an extension on the spark plug socket to reach down in the hole. Later when you are done tightening the spark plug, if the spark plug socket is the old rubber kind and it has a tight grip, the extension could slip out of the spark plug socket and leave the socket stuck down in the hold (still gripping the spark plug). So you want the socket to have a loose grip on the spark plug – tight enough to hold the spark plug securely to insert it, but then loose enough that you can easily extract the socket from the spark plug and get it out of that deep hole. So the magnetic socket was perfect for the job.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/spark-plug-socket/duralast-3-8-in-drive-5-8-in-spark-plug-socket/482599_0_0/ (http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/spark-plug-socket/duralast-3-8-in-drive-5-8-in-spark-plug-socket/482599_0_0/)
I had read some questions and discussion on other posts about the correct spark plug gap to set. My Haynes manual said .039 to .043 inches, but Auto Zone looked it up and said .044 inches. I figured the gap increases as the spark plug wears over time, so why not start with a slightly smaller gap if possible. I also read that the circular spark plug gap measuring tool wasn’t recommended as much for adjusting the spark plug gap as the “wire type”. I had a wire type spark plug measurement/adjustment tool that had a wire size of .040 inches, so that’s what I used and it worked fine.
Remember to let the engine cool before you remove the old plugs. Apparently removing plugs from a hot engine can cause problems.
Remember to use anti-seize on the spark plug threads before you insert the new plugs. I don’t know if you need to use a special heat-resistant anti-seize compound. I didn’t think about it, so I just used the standard silver colored anti-seize. Try just to get the anti-seize on the threads, not on the business ends of the spark plug.
The recommended torque spec I found to tighten the plugs was 13 foot-pounds, which is 152 inch-pounds. I have a nice “click style” small torque wrench from Sears with inch-pounds, which I like and recommend.
My car is old and has lots of miles on it, around 170,000 miles. Apparently oil can leak or collect by the spark plugs and spark plug wires. When I pulled off the first spark plug wire, it was covered with oil at the end, which concerned me. The car runs fine and I did some reading online, and apparently having oil collecting around the spark plugs and the wires is not a big deal. I’m sure someone will set me straight if that’s wrong. :-) Anyway, so I had some shop rags handy and as I disconnected each spark plug wire, I had a rag handy to wipe down the end so oil would not run off and make a mess. Also after I removed each spark plug, the spark plug socket would come out with some oil on it. So I wiped off the socket after removing each spark plug. And then later, when I removed the spark plug from the magnetic spark plug socket, some more oil would run off. I did one plug at a time (remove wire, remove plug, insert plug, replace wire). I didn’t want to get oil on the new plug while inserting it. So after removing one plug, I carefully wiped the oil out of the spark plug socket, before using it to insert the new plug. With the new plugs replaced and new spark plug wires, the car ran great! So apparently the oil around the plugs and wires isn’t a big problem. Maybe it also helps the spark plugs to come out and go in easier… :grinyes:
Replacing the spark plug wires was easy. First I bought a set of spark plug wires (including the wire between the coil and distributor cap) at Auto Zone. The wire for the coil and distributor cap was what I needed, and the new wire seemed to work fine. However, later when I was looking at changing the four spark plug wires, the wires didn’t seem to fit very well. The fit seemed a little loose at the end with the spark plugs. And the end with the distributor cap, the connector seemed to stick too far out of the rubber cover, so it didn’t seem like the rubber cover would provide as much protection as the original offered. I decided to buy OEM spark plug wires instead.
I was able to purchase OEM spark plug wires at Advance Auto Parts. They are NGK and worked fantastic. The fit was perfect, and they had them in stock. The set also included the wire between the coil and distributor cap, so I went ahead and changed that as well. I recommend them, cost was around $50 by buying online and picking up in the store.
Changing the distributor cap was easy. Two 8mm bolts, remove the old distributor cap, stick on the new one, put the wires in the same locations. However, I bought the new distributor cap from Auto Zone and it didn’t seem to fit quite as well as the original. If doing the project again I would try to buy either the OEM replacement part (preferably) or to buy from Honda. Also, when you change the distributor cap there is a small gasket that goes around the rim of the distributor to help make a sealed connection. The first time I replaced the cap I overlooked the gasket. Later I changed it. You will need some kind of tiny tool to get the old gasket to lift out of the tiny slot it is sitting in. I used a corkscrew from the kitchen which worked, but I’m sure there is a better tool for that purpose. :grinyes:
After replacing the cap, initially it helped my starting problems (that will be the subject of a different post), but later I was still having starting problems in damp/wet weather. I tried spraying misty water around the engine while it was running in the dark (spark plug wires, coil, coil wire, distributor cap) and sure enough when I sprayed water around the distributor cap it started flashing internally and also the car started hesitating. That’s when I noticed a tiny gap around part of the distributor cap (the part further away from the bolts). I discussed with some Auto Zone employees and decided to seal that gap with a little bit of silicone sealant, which seemed to work ok.
Last but not least, the distributor rotor, it is the part that spins inside the distributor cap. This sounds easy but was a bit of a pain. First, remove the distributor cap. Then there is a tiny Phillips screw that holds it on. To remove properly, you will have to rotate the engine until the tiny screw is visible. There is discussion online about the “correct” way to get to the screw. Some people mentioned cranking the engine a little at a time with the distributor cap removed, until the screw becomes visible. Others said that could damage your coil and so instead you should rotate your engine manually, using a socket on the crankshaft. Also they said if you rotate the engine manually, the direction is important. I’m guessing either approach can work. I used a part from Auto Zone. If doing it again, I would try to find the OEM replacement part (if possible) or buy the Honda part. Be careful not to over-tighten the bolts after removing, replacing the distributor cap - remember it's only plastic.
As an aside, here is also a YouTube video about how to slip on a tiny wire to crank the engine on a Honda from under the hood. I don’t know if this is a recommended approach, but here is the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtxsPuJK6BA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtxsPuJK6BA)
OK, back to changing the distributor rotor. Once you get the screw visible, it sounds easy right? Wrong. The screw is probably stuck firmly in place and is easy to strip. Do yourself a favor and purchase a manual impact driver, I bought one from Sears for around $20 on sale. Someone else also recommended putting a little valve grinding paste on the top of the Phillips screw hole. First my screw did not want to come out and it started to strip a little (but not badly). I tried PB Blaster. No luck. I probably tried WD40 also. Later I tried Deep Creep. No luck. I tried twisting with a Phillips screwdriver while also trying to turn the outside of the screw with a small needle nose lock jaw pliers. No luck. :banghead: But using the impact driver and the valve grinding paste worked great (along with a large rubber mallet). See this post for more info and discussion on removing that darn screw from the distributor rotor.
http://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/need-help-removing-stubborn-distributor-rotor-screw-281723/#post50121942 (http://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/need-help-removing-stubborn-distributor-rotor-screw-281723/#post50121942)
OK, sorry for the long post, but I hope this information is helpful to fellow Accord owners. Good luck!
I don’t pretend to be a great mechanic. I am mostly self-taught and just try to save some money doing smaller projects that are accessible to the beginner/intermediate home mechanic.
I have been troubleshooting some starting issues with my Honda Accord when conditions are wet or damp outside (no spark). So over time I have replaced my spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor. They were all easy to replace so I wanted to share what I have learned and some tips for other people.
Spark Plugs: the links below were helpful to me, so I won’t repeat that same information.
YouTube video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdBR967Hdv8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdBR967Hdv8)
This video is for a V-6 Accord, but the V-4 is similar.
A couple of comments that were included below the video, (1) he didn’t use a torque wrench to to tighten the new spark plugs, and (2) using anti-seize is recommended on the new spark plugs.
This article had a good summary on how to replace the spark plugs:
http://www.ehow.com/how_4507504_replace-spark-plugs-honda-accord.html (http://www.ehow.com/how_4507504_replace-spark-plugs-honda-accord.html)
Recommended spark plugs for a 1997 Honda Accord 4-cylinder B22F2
I did some reading online and it sounds like the NGK is the OEM spark plug. The V-Power is the basic plug and was recommended as the OEM plug, the part number is NGK ZFR5F-11 V-Power. These are inexpensive, around $2.50 or $3 per plug. I read some other posts that discussed using NGK Platinum or Iridium plugs for longer life. These plugs are so easy to change, I wouldn’t bother to use the more expensive plugs. If the plugs were more difficult to change, then I think the extra money for a longer life plug might be worth it.
The good folks at AutoZone recommended a magnetic spark plug socket to me, it was perfect for the job and I highly recommend purchasing it. Cost was only around $6 or $7. I think this is the tool, but just ask at the shop and make sure you tell them you want the magnetic one. The magnet works great because the spark plugs are set down into a hole. You will need an extension on the spark plug socket to reach down in the hole. Later when you are done tightening the spark plug, if the spark plug socket is the old rubber kind and it has a tight grip, the extension could slip out of the spark plug socket and leave the socket stuck down in the hold (still gripping the spark plug). So you want the socket to have a loose grip on the spark plug – tight enough to hold the spark plug securely to insert it, but then loose enough that you can easily extract the socket from the spark plug and get it out of that deep hole. So the magnetic socket was perfect for the job.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/spark-plug-socket/duralast-3-8-in-drive-5-8-in-spark-plug-socket/482599_0_0/ (http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/spark-plug-socket/duralast-3-8-in-drive-5-8-in-spark-plug-socket/482599_0_0/)
I had read some questions and discussion on other posts about the correct spark plug gap to set. My Haynes manual said .039 to .043 inches, but Auto Zone looked it up and said .044 inches. I figured the gap increases as the spark plug wears over time, so why not start with a slightly smaller gap if possible. I also read that the circular spark plug gap measuring tool wasn’t recommended as much for adjusting the spark plug gap as the “wire type”. I had a wire type spark plug measurement/adjustment tool that had a wire size of .040 inches, so that’s what I used and it worked fine.
Remember to let the engine cool before you remove the old plugs. Apparently removing plugs from a hot engine can cause problems.
Remember to use anti-seize on the spark plug threads before you insert the new plugs. I don’t know if you need to use a special heat-resistant anti-seize compound. I didn’t think about it, so I just used the standard silver colored anti-seize. Try just to get the anti-seize on the threads, not on the business ends of the spark plug.
The recommended torque spec I found to tighten the plugs was 13 foot-pounds, which is 152 inch-pounds. I have a nice “click style” small torque wrench from Sears with inch-pounds, which I like and recommend.
My car is old and has lots of miles on it, around 170,000 miles. Apparently oil can leak or collect by the spark plugs and spark plug wires. When I pulled off the first spark plug wire, it was covered with oil at the end, which concerned me. The car runs fine and I did some reading online, and apparently having oil collecting around the spark plugs and the wires is not a big deal. I’m sure someone will set me straight if that’s wrong. :-) Anyway, so I had some shop rags handy and as I disconnected each spark plug wire, I had a rag handy to wipe down the end so oil would not run off and make a mess. Also after I removed each spark plug, the spark plug socket would come out with some oil on it. So I wiped off the socket after removing each spark plug. And then later, when I removed the spark plug from the magnetic spark plug socket, some more oil would run off. I did one plug at a time (remove wire, remove plug, insert plug, replace wire). I didn’t want to get oil on the new plug while inserting it. So after removing one plug, I carefully wiped the oil out of the spark plug socket, before using it to insert the new plug. With the new plugs replaced and new spark plug wires, the car ran great! So apparently the oil around the plugs and wires isn’t a big problem. Maybe it also helps the spark plugs to come out and go in easier… :grinyes:
Replacing the spark plug wires was easy. First I bought a set of spark plug wires (including the wire between the coil and distributor cap) at Auto Zone. The wire for the coil and distributor cap was what I needed, and the new wire seemed to work fine. However, later when I was looking at changing the four spark plug wires, the wires didn’t seem to fit very well. The fit seemed a little loose at the end with the spark plugs. And the end with the distributor cap, the connector seemed to stick too far out of the rubber cover, so it didn’t seem like the rubber cover would provide as much protection as the original offered. I decided to buy OEM spark plug wires instead.
I was able to purchase OEM spark plug wires at Advance Auto Parts. They are NGK and worked fantastic. The fit was perfect, and they had them in stock. The set also included the wire between the coil and distributor cap, so I went ahead and changed that as well. I recommend them, cost was around $50 by buying online and picking up in the store.
Changing the distributor cap was easy. Two 8mm bolts, remove the old distributor cap, stick on the new one, put the wires in the same locations. However, I bought the new distributor cap from Auto Zone and it didn’t seem to fit quite as well as the original. If doing the project again I would try to buy either the OEM replacement part (preferably) or to buy from Honda. Also, when you change the distributor cap there is a small gasket that goes around the rim of the distributor to help make a sealed connection. The first time I replaced the cap I overlooked the gasket. Later I changed it. You will need some kind of tiny tool to get the old gasket to lift out of the tiny slot it is sitting in. I used a corkscrew from the kitchen which worked, but I’m sure there is a better tool for that purpose. :grinyes:
After replacing the cap, initially it helped my starting problems (that will be the subject of a different post), but later I was still having starting problems in damp/wet weather. I tried spraying misty water around the engine while it was running in the dark (spark plug wires, coil, coil wire, distributor cap) and sure enough when I sprayed water around the distributor cap it started flashing internally and also the car started hesitating. That’s when I noticed a tiny gap around part of the distributor cap (the part further away from the bolts). I discussed with some Auto Zone employees and decided to seal that gap with a little bit of silicone sealant, which seemed to work ok.
Last but not least, the distributor rotor, it is the part that spins inside the distributor cap. This sounds easy but was a bit of a pain. First, remove the distributor cap. Then there is a tiny Phillips screw that holds it on. To remove properly, you will have to rotate the engine until the tiny screw is visible. There is discussion online about the “correct” way to get to the screw. Some people mentioned cranking the engine a little at a time with the distributor cap removed, until the screw becomes visible. Others said that could damage your coil and so instead you should rotate your engine manually, using a socket on the crankshaft. Also they said if you rotate the engine manually, the direction is important. I’m guessing either approach can work. I used a part from Auto Zone. If doing it again, I would try to find the OEM replacement part (if possible) or buy the Honda part. Be careful not to over-tighten the bolts after removing, replacing the distributor cap - remember it's only plastic.
As an aside, here is also a YouTube video about how to slip on a tiny wire to crank the engine on a Honda from under the hood. I don’t know if this is a recommended approach, but here is the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtxsPuJK6BA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vtxsPuJK6BA)
OK, back to changing the distributor rotor. Once you get the screw visible, it sounds easy right? Wrong. The screw is probably stuck firmly in place and is easy to strip. Do yourself a favor and purchase a manual impact driver, I bought one from Sears for around $20 on sale. Someone else also recommended putting a little valve grinding paste on the top of the Phillips screw hole. First my screw did not want to come out and it started to strip a little (but not badly). I tried PB Blaster. No luck. I probably tried WD40 also. Later I tried Deep Creep. No luck. I tried twisting with a Phillips screwdriver while also trying to turn the outside of the screw with a small needle nose lock jaw pliers. No luck. :banghead: But using the impact driver and the valve grinding paste worked great (along with a large rubber mallet). See this post for more info and discussion on removing that darn screw from the distributor rotor.
http://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/need-help-removing-stubborn-distributor-rotor-screw-281723/#post50121942 (http://honda-tech.com/tech-misc-15/need-help-removing-stubborn-distributor-rotor-screw-281723/#post50121942)
OK, sorry for the long post, but I hope this information is helpful to fellow Accord owners. Good luck!
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