2001 olds intrigue starting issues 3.5 l twin cam

Last Thursday my car started just shutting off on me while on the road. I'll put it on nuetral and start it back up just fine and it'll continue to drive. The next day it started fine again until it warmed up and I turn it off. So when I try to turn it back on it stalled for a while and then it turned on. This continued until last Monday when it just finally died on me and had to get it towed home. I figured my crankshaft sensor was bad so I replaced it with a bad battery I found out I had. I also replaced the fuel filter, air filter, fuel pump, fuel injectors, spark plugs, ignition coil packs, air mass flow sensor and still nothing. It cranks now but I'm not sure if im getting enough fuel or spark for it to run. I'm thinking its the fuel pressure regulator or ignition module at this point but I'm getting tired of guessing, especially spending money. Would appreciate some help, thanks.

Well, it sounds like your bad battery was the main culprit......wasn't the BAT light on in your dash, showing that you had a charging problem?

Also, have you scanned for codes?

Did you replace all of those parts because of this?

No bat light was on, I knew it was bad because I had it charged and checked. I tried yesterday but it says no codes which I don't understand why since I originally had the catalytic converter check light and the abs system also. I also tried to get a code by unplugging the air mass sensor and still got nothing. I replaced all this since I wasn't getting fuel pressure in the fuel rail and with that I found burnt spark plugs so I replaced that with the coil pads (just in case), I also wanted to make sure I was getting spark. When I tried starting it when I replaced the coils and air mass sensor, it idled for a half a second and died. So now I'm not sure if it's getting enough fuel pressure or not enough spark still?

Jrod -
If it isn't fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump, which I would check first, how about the old faithful, the ignition switch? There is still info on the forum about that problem -- we had enough discussion about it. Littlehoov may chime in; he wrote a good procedure, and so did a guy named krivasauto, if I remember right. Do a search of this forum for "ignition" or "ignition switch". If I read your posts right, you haven't checked that yet. Hope that helps.

I had somewhat of a similar issue a few months ago. The car would start and then a few moments later die. The car would then start. No dash lights. Was going to get the ignition switch replaced at dealer but was under the hood poking around and pulled the PVC valve to see if it was working. It was fine but when I went to replace it I noticed that a small part of its rubber boot had broken off and had been sucked into the tube, blocking most of it. Removing that little piece of rubber solved the problem. Couldn't find a replacement boot so wrapped the PVC boot and tube with duct tape.

I had previously replaced the fuel filter with no change.

When a car won't start, that is when diagnosis is the easiest....

Basics: spark, fuel pressure, injector pulse, compression....

When key is turned to on(don't crank), Does security light come on and then go out after 3 seconds? Does the CE light come on?

When a car won't start, that is when diagnosis is the easiest....

Basics: spark, fuel pressure, injector pulse, compression....

When key is turned to on(don't crank), Does security light come on and then go out after 3 seconds? Does the CE light come on?

I second the Security Light.
I didn't see it mentioned.
If the bulb is burned out you could be looking in the wrong place.
The light should come on for a second when you turn the key to on.
Sometimes if you have a bad lock cylinder or you turn the key to fast it doesn't read right and the light will flash and lock out the car for exactly 10 minutes.

This could be a problem for starting, but not dying while driving. That may be the Ignition Switch. Both of these things are hard to get at BTW.