HELP!! 95 Lesabre No Start

As stated my Lesabre is a 95. I was driving my wife to work the other morning and the car died and I had to coast into the nearest parking lot. I had it towed back home and have been working on it ever since. It just cranks over but wont start.

The first thing I was told has check the MAF and the Crankshaft Position and Cam sensors. I just replaced the MAF a month ago. I was also informed if the CAM or Crank sensors were bad I wouldn't get any spark with I do. The coils are throwing bright blue sparks when testing which is good. Was also told to then check the ICM which is good because the coils are getting spark.

I have tested all the Fuel injectors with a Multimeter. Getting perfect OHMs from all the injectors (12.4) There is fuel in the fuel rail. I can't tell if the fuel pump is kicking on or not because I have never been able to hear it kick on and ive owned the car for almost 3 years.

And I have killed the battery cranking over on it and testing all the relays, sensors, injectors and all that. I am in serious need of help.

Also forgot to mention had a friend hook jumper cables up to me for a jump start but still just turned over no start.

If you have ruled out ignition, will it start with starting fluid?
Plugs wet or dry?

If you have ruled out ignition, will it start with starting fluid?
Plugs wet or dry?

I have squirted gas in to try to start it to rule out the fuel pump but it still would not start.

As for the plugs I have only really checked one but will pull and inspect the rest in the morning.

Its my only means of transportation so it is killing me. I paid someone to take me to the salvage yard the other day and to bring me home I walk in and the guy leaves me there to walk 5 miles home. Wasn't a good day

I paid someone to take me to the salvage yard the other day and to bring me home I walk in and the guy leaves me there to walk 5 miles home. Wasn't a good day Worthless POS, that would leave you stranded in a salvage yard! Have you checked injector pulse with a noid light? What you have mentioned so far, does not make any sense. You said you have "blue spark" but no fire. What is fuel pressure readings?

Thanks to the guys that replied I think I finally got it. FUEL PUMP. I have never heard the fuel pump since i have owned the car and the previous owner told me it was new and it was one of the quiet models so i never thought much about it. Then that with the fuel not starting it before I ruled it out. Then after almost 6 hours going through every fuse relay sensor and shecking them with a multimeter I stopped and thought maybe the gas wasnt going far enough back when i sprayed it so took a little hose dipped it in gas to trap gas inside like a straw released gas in and turned over and bam. Fired up for a second did it one more time to make sure. Then as a double check disconnected the fuel filter put the hose from the gas tank in an empty clean bottle turned over a couple of times and nothing. Will be replacing it this weekend.

Yes, just depressing the schraeder valve on the fuel rail is no indication of how much pressure you have....should be in excess of 40 PSI.....

Before dropping that tank you should disconnect the harness to the fuel tank and test the fuel pump circuit with a test light....should turn on for 2 seconds when the key is turned to on....should be on steady, when the car is cranked....If it isn't, better check that relay circuit first....hate to see you drop the tank for nothing....

One more thing, make sure there is gas in the tank....you won't be the first guy fooled by a bad level sensor...

Yes, just depressing the schraeder valve on the fuel rail is no indication of how much pressure you have....should be in excess of 40 PSI.....

Before dropping that tank you should disconnect the harness to the fuel tank and test the fuel pump circuit with a test light....should turn on for 2 seconds when the key is turned to on....should be on steady, when the car is cranked....If it isn't, better check that relay circuit first....hate to see you drop the tank for nothing....

One more thing, make sure there is gas in the tank....you won't be the first guy fooled by a bad level sensor...

Fuel pump circuit As in the fuel relay that is located behind the Glove Box?
If that's what you're speaking of I recently (yesterday) pulled it out and and swapped it out.

Ill use my siphon hose to snake in and double check for fuel i filled the car up about 150 miles ago so it should still have about a half tank. I use the trip odometer ever time I fill up so I can keep a record of the Miles per gallon im getting. Another reason for the lack of thinking that it was the fuel pump that went bad is because the MPG finally started going back up from 18.5 per mile and the last few fill ups i have been averaging about 19.75.

Are there directions of removal of the gas tank. I dont want to miss anything or mess anything up I just cant afford it. Like a true tutorial?

Try listening with your ear under the fuel tank as close as possible while someone else turns the igniton key to ON. The pump should run for 2-3 seconds.

If it doesn't tap the bottom with a rubber hammer or something similar during that 2-second period to see if the pump starts running.

And do as someone else said about checking the circuit to the connector as close to the tank as you can get. All to verify the problem is the pump and not a connection or circuit problem.

I have put my ear to the spout and to the tank itself while my wife turned the key on for me nothing.

I checked the fuel pump fuse and relay both good even swapped out the relay just in case nothing.

It has gas in the tank so I know its not out of gas.

I checked the lines, wire, and plugs under the hood and under the car.

So it does seem to be the fuel pump. I was in the process of taking it out when my jack went bad thank goodness for bricks under the tires or I would be a pancake. So I am waiting on my Brother in law to bring over his jack and some jack stands and extras he is on his way now and hopefully it will be out and the new fuel pump in by dark.

I will update you guys on my progress tonight either way to let you know how far I have made it or how it went later tonight.

I want to thank everyone again for your help and input.

If you haven't already discovered it, the exhaust system will have to be dropped at the rear in order to remove the fuel tank. The system also uses a pulsation damper to quiet the noise from the fuel pump, and those have been known to fail, allowing pumped fuel to just return to the tank instead of reaching the injector rails. If you replace the pump, hopefully the new unit will not include the pulsation damper. If it does, you might want to consider eliminating it with a section of fuel-rated hose and the appropriate clamps.

Well guys it's a pretty late update but I got the tank down last night and worked well into the dark but had a hard time getting the filler and vent hose to slide on plus it was freezing and raining so I called it a night. Woke up today still raining and freezing. Needless to say it finally slowed down and i took off the tire slid on the hoses and finished ratcheting down the straps put my gas back in and went for a ride. :) It was a great day I was out of a car almost 11 days. Thanks again everyone for your input.

I was actually able to get the tank down without bringing down the exhaust.

Anyone doing this job on their back, dropping the exhaust makes removal a little easier......don't have to remove it, just release the hangers and let it down about a foot, and move it to the side a little......late 90's early 2000's had an access plate in the trunk, and you didn't have to drop the tank.....then the newer ones, eliminated it....