2005 1gr-fe no spark no start

hoping you guys can help me out. car ran fine then one day parked and wouldn't start hour later. Plugs were overdue for a change so swapped them, as well as rotated a new coil in each cylinder...no luck...got a scantool, pulled 3 codes...one for crankshaft sensor, one for cam sensor bank 1 and one for cam and crank sensors out of alignment. Erased codes swapped, tried starting, cam sensor bank 1 code reappeared. Swapped bank 1 and bank 2 sensors, cleared, tried starting and cam sensor bank 2 code was triggered. Got new cam sensor, swapped w/ broken, still wont start. Getting about 9V at coils but tested cylinder 3, and still no spark. Now no codes after multiple start attempts. Tested cam sensor circuit...all good.

At this point, decided to go back to cranksensor...Pulled it and it had a gash across the face of the sensor. Replaced crank sensor, quickly visual inspection of wiring and harness looked fine...put it all back together still wont start.

I'm going to go back and check for spark again on the off chance the problem is 2 fold. But I smelled gas when changing plugs and starter fluid didn't do anything so I don't think fuel is the issue. I also checked timing chain through oil fill cap and can see it turning.

I've been so busy I haven't slept in a couple days and want to make sure I'm not missing something obvious...any thoughts are welcome.

Thanks

IGT signal from ECM?

Shouldn't voltage at coil be 12 V?

IGT signal from ECM?

Shouldn't voltage at coil be 12 V?

I was told about 9V w/ key in ON position, and it elevates to 12+ when cranking. :dunno: I am seeing 9V w/ key in ON...not seeing elevation when cranking. I checked again, definitely getting fuel, definitely not getting spark. I visually inspected all fuses which look fine. Any idea what Pins i should be checking for IGT signal, i'm really flying at this blind with no manual.

Thanks

Try this link:
http://www.4shared.com/zip/8h81tin6/2006Toyota4RunnerRepairManual.html
You may have to log in to the site to download.

IGT signal from ECM?

Shouldn't voltage at coil be 12 V?

so electrical has never been my forte, and I'm continuing to troubleshoot after I type this...but I checked and have no IGT signal at any of coil harnesses. So I checked ECU pins and same thing there. So few random questions, no particular order:

1) So correct me if I'm wrong...but if Crank Sensor was good and 1 of 2 cam sensors was good, I would see IGT signal on 3 of 6 coils...but as I see no IGT signal on any of the 6, can I assume the issue is crank sensor related?

2) The gash in the face of the removed/broken crank sensor has me wondering if the teeth in the wheel it reads may be broken (thoughts?)

3) I'm reading different things online, regarding whether I can actually read IGT signal with ignition 'ON', cranking, or idling, or all 3...any idea which is true? I would tend to think it would at least be present when cranking, not just idling....

4) Any other random sensors (as I've already replaced crank and 1 cam sensor) that would prevent ECU from sending IGT signal?

5) When I reinstalled Crank Sensor, did I have to line it up in any special way.. I just reinserted,but didn't give any thought to actual crank position, etc.

Thanks

What were your original trouble codes? What are they now? Did you download the FSM in the link above? Perform the troubleshooting procedure in the FSM for the codes you are getting now.

1) So correct me if I'm wrong...but if Crank Sensor was good and 1 of 2 cam sensors was good, I would see IGT signal on 3 of 6 coils...but as I see no IGT signal on any of the 6, can I assume the issue is crank sensor related?

Not sure, but I believe a wrong or no signal from the crank or either cam sensor will cut the IGT signal. Your plugs will all get spark of none of them.

2) The gash in the face of the removed/broken crank sensor has me wondering if the teeth in the wheel it reads may be broken (thoughts?)

Maybe, but you have to check. Bad sensor implies nothing about the wheel.

3) I'm reading different things online, regarding whether I can actually read IGT signal with ignition 'ON', cranking, or idling, or all 3...any idea which is true? I would tend to think it would at least be present when cranking, not just idling....

You should normally get an IGT signal when the engine is rotating, either cranking or idling. Not with the ignition on. Turning the crank by hand (clockwise from the front) will give you a varying voltage signal from both the cam position sensors.

4) Any other random sensors (as I've already replaced crank and 1 cam sensor) that would prevent ECU from sending IGT signal?

No spark is most likely ignition coil, power to ignition coils, cam sensor, crank sensor or ECM wiring to ignition coils (lack of IGT).

5) When I reinstalled Crank Sensor, did I have to line it up in any special way.. I just reinserted,but didn't give any thought to actual crank position, etc.

Crank position doesn't matter.

First pulled p0335, p0340, p0016 check engine light had apparently been on for months (wife's DD). Cleared, tried to start a few times and p0340 was only one to return. I replaced the bad cam sensor, and haven't gotten a code since...but still no start.

Check your battery voltage during cranking. Low battery voltage can cause a P0340 and P0335. Your battery may be on its last legs. This would explain your low voltage measurement at the coils.

Also, check the camshaft and crankshaft sensors circuit wiring/connectors. Make sure the wires and connectors are undamaged and tight.

Check your battery voltage during cranking. Low battery voltage can cause a P0340 and P0335. Your battery may be on its last legs. This would explain your low voltage measurement at the coils.

Also, check the camshaft and crankshaft sensors circuit wiring/connectors. Make sure the wires and connectors are undamaged and tight.

All circuits and connectors are good, checked repeatedly. I'll check battery...I've had it on a battery tender this entire time, but I don't have a clue how old the battery is, was on there when we bought the car, so it's worth a shot. I don't see why it would cause no IGT signal...but I'll try tonight. Thanks for suggestions.

You must take it to Toyota to get it diagnosed.