S10 no start, leaking valves

Hello,
I've been trying to fix my '98 2.2 s10 since it didn't start one day. I know it gets fuel and spark fine and the timing is correct. Does not start when spraying anything into the intake.

After seeing coolant on the plugs I took off the head to find that the gasket was blown, I got a new gasket and bolts, cleaned it well and put it together with correct specs. Still no start!

I did a leak down and kept hearing noise from the intake on a couple cylinders, it was hard to tell if any noise was coming from the dipstick tube so I have no clue on that.
I take the head back off and I use a thin penetrant spray onto the valves and this shows me leaking from cylinder 1,2 and 3 on both intake and exhaust ports within 5-15 min depending on the valve. So basically cylinder 4 is good and never leaks.

I am told this wouldn't cause a no start and it should still be running but rough. So I am afraid if I buy a replacement head that it won't fix the problem and I'll waste my money. I'd like to get more opinions. Perhaps replacing valve parts would be cheaper? I can't find any guide on how to do it and all the parts seem to be sold separately.

Thanks!

I would call around to local machine shops. My area around 150-200 redo the head, milling, valve job etc. Did it overheat when the head gasket went?

I don't think I have any machine shops anywhere near me, we have too many small tire or body shops :\ (not in orlando, fl anymore)
I was looking at exhanging my head with headsonly.com for $200 but want to know if this is most likely the cause of the no start before I put that much money into it. It's a beat up truck I want to use for work but it's not worth putting money in to if it's not going to fix it.

I already will have to buy a second set of new gasket and bolts. Don't know if I can reuse the gasket or not.

I don't think it ever overheated not from looking at the gauge at least. I was guessing the valves might have though.
It ran until I stopped it, then I guess after it cooled it could no longer get up to the right temp to start.

I can't speculate a new head will fix your problem. Compression test/leak down test would give you more information.

:S did leak down, it shows loss of compression through the valves. You are saying the rest of the compression has got to be going somewhere else?
All I'm asking is if this could possibly cause a no start. How likely? Because I'm basically told it wouldn't.

what percentage did it leak when you did the leakdown, gauge on tool should show you how much. also a compresion check would have told you condition of valves and rings. it takes about 90psi for the cylinder to fire, any less and you have problems. most have 120psi or more per cyl. if you look in your phone book under automotive machine shops i bet you will find several. the shops in town have to have someone do their machine work

Did you ever do a compression test on it before pulling the head? And a wet compression test? Did you check the head surface with a straight edge? Did it make any attempt to start,backfire,fart,anything? Where's the blowout on the gasket?
No,the head gasket is not reusable. The bolts maybe. Check them for stretch with a straight edge down the bolt, along the threads. Any variation in threads makes them unusable. Need a micrometer to measure length and compare to specs.
Didn't see engine mileage. Maybe get prices a used engine. Bone yards can tell you what model and year GM engines are compatible. Some will run them for ya prior to purchase.

Didn't do wet test, I know I should have :\ my helper stopped cranking for me so I couldn't keep reading the gauge. Never got to record the leak % either.
I figured any leak would be bad especially almost all valves. Like the 4th cylinder has no leaking valves at all.

Head surface is good

When you spray enough starting fluid in the intake it does start backfiring, it through flames out of the intake once

The gasket was blown out in a few places throughout but not on the edge or anything. I threw it out awhile ago though so can't look at it. It was mostly just allowing coolant to get through.

New gasket was only installed for a little while and engine never ran with it. I guess it isn't as flat as it was though.

Another thing I noticed is that the valve cover is clean when I take it back off, from when I cleaned it. Does oil only flow through the pushrods when running or should it flow when cranking also?

By the way no DTC's.

Well thanks for the input guys, I guess I'll bolt the head back and try to test more. I have a strong feeling it's not the rings though.

Usually backfire indicates timing is off.

You get enough starting fluid in anything and its gonna backfire.... Maybe even drop a valve.

You get enough starting fluid in anything and its gonna backfire.... Maybe even drop a valve.

True.

ah ok
yea, most people that mess with starting fluid end up shooting it in there for hours like it's going to fix something. very annoying. I just try it real quick and see what it does but then someone comes over and says hey let me try. several wasted cans later..

hey boss are you sure you put the distributor back in correctly and you are not 180 degrees ofF

if you have been spring fluids in there and it is not burning them you will see stuff coming out whether the valves are leaking or not

lol No distributor on this one man but I've had the coil packs & module swapped out and wires were correctly installed. nothing.
No dtc's so guessing sensors aren't bad.
New battery New alternator, not that it matters.