91pa no start

I have a 91 park ave it wont start all the lights come on the dash . If I run jumper to starter it turns wont stay running unless I pour gas in line. appears to not be getting power to starter and fuel system any idea what controls both of these? thanks

Yes, your SECURITY system......turn your key to "on"....do not crank the car...all the lights will light on the dash......Look for your SECURITY light....it should come on for 3-5 seconds and then go out.....If it doesn't go out, that is your problem........the usual problem is the wire harness in the steering column from your ignition lock cylinder, has a broken wire.....two options: replace the lock cylinder, or cut the harness and attach a resistor equal to the resistor in your ignition key......

thanks i'll try that. I was just under car by starter and the wire that runs off to 3-4 sensors is all melted together and exposed?

I got underneath and found that all 4 sensors have exposed wires that have been grounding out all the way to starter should I get all new wiring harness im at a point where I don't know what to do

I'm a little confused by the wires you are describing....if wires are bare and exposed, they would ground out and either blow fuses or melt fuseable links.....

The purple wire, that goes to your starter solenoid, is that one of the wires?

Exactly where are these wires? What are they attached to, to get a clearer picture of their position?

the wire are in the front of car one wire runs down from battery and braches off to 4 sensors? where they are grounding out one is below alternator on the top of?whatever is below it at the bottom where serpentine belt goes around others possibly knock sensor & tps & sir system

Are you talking about the pos cable running down from the battery, attaches to the starter solenoid, and the fuseable links that branch off from this?

Okay they go opposite way of purple wire. one goes to top of crank one goes to a/c & 2 other unknown A couple are round 2 prong 1 is flat 3 prong and have not got the last one off (crank) sorry about that I'm kind of learning as I go which isn't good for this situation. Thank you very much

Have you checked the SECURITY light, yet?

going to bypass security now thanks

bypassed security and security light is still on and still no start what next?

Exactly, how did you bypass the SECURITY?

Does the vehicle now crank over, where before you had to use a jumper wire?

Do you have fuel pressure? You obviously have spark.....

Have you checked for codes by jumping A to B in the ALDL connector(install jumper, then just turn key to "on", and count the flashes.....will flash "12" three times, and then flash codes after that, three times for each code)?

Did you at least tape those exposed wires?

http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/gm-aldl-connector.gif

i bypassed the vats by putting the same value resistors to the two white wires leading away from steering wheel 1 on each. had key and resistor checked by alarm place. sill no crank or gas. fuel pressure checks okay .taped wires going to jump a&b right now

just tried to check codes jumped a&b turned key on all that showed on dash was security and service eng soon no flashing or codes tried jumping starter it turned but wont start

The CE light did not flash when you jumpered A to B with the key on?

Next thing I would do, is start checking all the fuses......I believe you have them in more than one place....check your owner's manual for locations.......those bare wires could have taken out a fuse(s).....

found a 15 amp blown for the automatic door locks - security? going to try jumping a&b again

Well I tried to jump a&b again nothing but after sitting there for fifteen minutes the security light went off. So
I tried to start it, it turned once (which it hadn't done in 2 weeks) and everything was dead. I then disconnected battery and then re-connected it then turned the key (still had a&b hooked up) it started right up let it run for 10 minutes. removed a&b jumper and have started it several times with no problem, glad its running again but not real sure why. But I wanted to thank you for all your help and information, I couldn't have fixed it otherwise so, THANK YOU very much

Actually, it sounds like you fixed it by accident......I don't think you had a problem, with the battery connections, because the car started before......but it's possible, that there was one.....

The other thing is this.......and I didn't think of it......you bypassed the VATS system.....I think the wire inside the steering column, broke where it flexes when you turned the key......now, I am sure you measured the Resistance of the key, and got a resistor or set of resistors, that equaled the key......however, if you did not have good connections when you installed the resistors, that resistance would change......and if that happened, then the VATS module would not recognize the key, or in this case the resistance....

Every P/A has a "master" key(s)......if you lose both of them,and you don't know what the resistance was, you cut a new key with a 1 in 15 chance that it is the right resistor......so the odds of it starting the car are miniscule.......but, it can be "learned".....

You insert the new key, turn to "on", and leave it on for 10 minutes, light should go out, shut it off.....you have to do this two more times....this relearns the key with the new resistance....in your case, somehow it relearned the resistance of the resistors, you installed, that's why the light went out.....I hope you have good, solid connections at those resistors, because if they loosen/come apart, then the car won't start again......

Sometimes shit happens for the bad....in this case, it worked out for you.....enjoy your P/A.....it was a nice riding car.....don't make them like that anymore....