turbo wanted, what all's needed

ok, my neighbor hasa a turbo which spins frely and has no slop, I am gonna trade him a D15B that i basicaally got for free for it and it has a wastegate.

so I got what I think is the most expensive part already.

I know a guy that I am just gonna cut a steel plate to match the turbine housing flange and then Im gonna cut my manifold and have the plate welded to it. so that is taken car of very inexpensively, the piping I am just gonna bend exhaust pipe, so that is cheap. I am not gonna run an intercooler cuz I am only gonna run about 6 psi. new FMIC's on ebay are around 250-400 bucks, theres a side mount from a 2g talon for 30 bucks with a day to go tho so iof needed i can afford one, but I heard you have alot more lag with a big intercooler cuz that has to be pressurised as well so it takes longer for you to reach full boost. but will the air coming in be really hot without it, seems like it to me but ive seen del sols at 6 psi w/o it and it was running fine.

I dont know exactly what kind of turbo it is but it loks to be a prety small one so I bet it will spool nicely,I will measure the tirbines sometime to see, when I hear .60, .40, what is that referring to? would the diameter of the turbines tell me about spool time at all?

the other things I think I need are
-oil lines (cant be too much)
-BOV around 100 bucks (is this an essential item for a turbo'd car?
-map check valve (think ive heard it called that before) )no idea about $$$
-the FMU

I found a brand new FMU for 100 bucks on ebay
FMU - tp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2420944399&category=33742

will my stock injectors suffice?

just to let you know it is a DOHC ZC with injectors from a 92 d15. i think they are the same with just different impedences.

the downpipe i am gonna have a mufler shop make one for me for prety cheap.

anything else I need.

also what should the timneing be at. cuz I got a B20 dist in it so tha I dont throw the CAS code and cut fuel early. but it only goes in onee way and I cant adjust it, I am thinking a grinder willl make it adjustable a bit. I havent checked it with a light but i think it is advanced if anything.


thanks

Dude Cutting corners with turbo systems is a very bad thing to do. They are not cheap to build. Cutting corners means you will be spending money on something else later on. I highly suggest you get a book called "maximum boost" by Corky Bell. This book is full of great info for beginers. This should answer all of your questions about turbo systems. Good Luck with your project.

You also need an EGT gauge, boost gauge, you better use an intercooler. Just get a decent Talon/Eclipse IC and clean it thoroughly with alcohol. An APEX'i SAFC wouldn't hurt.

I agree with efini13. Do it right the first time, or you'll be fixing it later.

1. The turbo is NOT the most expensive part. You have to remember that you need to change your entire exhaust. The backpressure that your stock exhaust will cause will ruin the power gain of the turbo. Also a GOOD intercooler will cost you more than the turbo alone will.

2. You have to have oil lines going to and from the turbo. Oil is a turbos life blood.

3. A Blow Off Valve or a Diverter Valve is necessary. A turbo often tries to flow more air than the engine or closed throttle plate will accept. That means that the turbo has to push air against a closed throttle plate. This creates backpressure. This can be very damaging to a turbo. A BOV or DV will relieve that excess boost. A BOV will let it out into the atmosphere while a DV re-circulates it.

4. For 6 PSI you do not need an intercooler. If you ever plan to go 10PSI or above you had better build up the engine, get lower compression pistons, and add the intercooler. You would be surprised at how hot a turbo gets. The impeller spins at 100,000 plus RPM. Just take a turbo charged car out for a very spirited drive and pull over and look at the turbo, it will be glowing red. In intercooler helps a lot. There are two types, just find out which one is better for you.

5. I wouldn't know about the rest for your car, hopefully someone else can answer that for you, but I would suggest taking this to someone who knows exactly what they are doing. Installing a turbo is one of the most complicated things you can do to a car if not the most.

ok,

1. I knew about the oil lines

2. I found a smic off a laser for cheap

3. this guy knows how to weld, he works at a company that just built a cruiseship and is the top welder there, he has welded many things for me and does an excellent job, but he told me it will be hard to do since he has to heat it up to the right temps, us ni-rofd and not let it cool too quickly or it will crack, and hes gonna make me a downpipe as well

4. I dont have stock exhaust. it is 2.25" with a brosal prospeed(crap) muffler but im replacing it cuz it is too damn big, sticks out too far but cant go back none cuz it already hits the rear arm.

5. I was planning on getting a boost guage but that wasnt really a part of the turbo kit itself so i left it out. as for the SAFC, it is expensive and I didnt know that it worked with boost, I figured id need the AVCR but again $$$$

6. and I dont want to cut corners, I just want to do as much as I can myself or friends doing it for me to save lots of money, turbo manifold would be like 300 bucks, mines gonna cost about 20 bucks. downpipe- dont know how much, mine - free.

7. no more boost than 6 or 7 psi cuz I dont wanna hjave to do internal woirk and am gonna sell the car soon anyways, just wanna have some fun first.

ok, so how about this updated list

IHI turbo w/ WG 0
manifold 20
downpipe 0
FMU 100
oil lines ?
smic off a eclipse/talon/laser 40
piping using 2.5 inch exhaust pipe 30
boost guage 50
BOV 90



and it is a IHI turbo and the guy said he saw a manifold that had a flange that fit it and it was off an MX6 so maybe thats where it came from. it has 4 oil lines tho? is it a oil feed and return line and the other 2 for water or what?

"as for the SAFC, it is expensive and I didnt know that it worked with boost,"

It allows you to tune for the proper A/F. But at 6-7psi and a A/F gauge, you might be able to up the fuel pressure with a AFPR so you dont lean out.

The right af gauge you need for tuning is a bit pricey. A wide band is the only one that will work. The cheap ones you get for like $60 dont tell you anything. The wide band o2 go for about $800. The wideband will tell you exactly what the afr is.

ok, so is the 60 dollar AF guage COMP{LETELY wortthless or will it somewhat tell me whats going on, no way am i spending 800 bucks.

but I am getting the FMU, it is a little canister looking thing that has a vaccum line or something from the mnanifold, and as the manifold pressure rises it puts back pressure on the regulator and the rail has more fuel pressure. I dont know if that is how they all work, but this one is like that. it says its what comes in a vortech SC kit.

also, whats with the 4 lines???

I found the SAFC ofor 220 new on ebay and about 60+ used, so ill go new if i get one. and it will work with boost? does it read the AFR off of the O2 like the 800 dollar gauge does? if not, how is it better than tuning just with AFPR and a cheap guage.

well, he cant weld it for me cause he has no way to keep it from cooling too quickly at his house, and he doesnt want to chance ruining my manifold, so im gonna buy 1.75" O.D. 1/8" walled, 1.5" I.D pipe, about 3 feet of it ($45), cut 4 equal lengths and bend them all the the same point put steep angles on all so that I can weld them together to one flange. then Im gonna get a 3/8" thick 4x24" ($50) plate anf cut out the flange to bolt to the turbo housing, the plate that bolts to the head, and the plate that bolts to the exhaust side of the housing and weld them on. and im just gonna get exhaust pipe to weld to thew exhaust side flange.

so for 100 bucks I got a turbo manifold, instead of 200 and up plus shipping. the metal is local so i dont got to pay for shipping. labor is free cuz my landlord has a welder that I can use, I just didnt want to use ni rod and do delicate stuff.

anyways, that pricing is for stainless T-304. I can get the flat stock in 1018 cold rolled steel for only 18 bucks. but the pipe is the same cost in 4130 cold rolled steel. is aluminum strong enough and able to handle the heat for this application cuz I could get it all in 6061 T6 aluminum for 46 bucks and I can get a kid to take it to school and weld it for me cuz shop has a tig welder.



so anyways, i need to know what kind of metal is best for this. also I might get some thin stock of any kind of metal and make bolt on the flange with one of the 3 bolts hiolding the manifold to turbo, and maybe go back to the PS pump mount bolt or something to help suprt it as well. but I think it will be strong enough.

I plan on piecing together my own turbo kit soon myself useing a T3 for about 7 psi. I think you'll need to do something with the ECU so it'll work correctly with the boost not sure if Jim Wolf Technology does work with honda/acura i know he great or nissan stuff. my only question is how do you run the lines for the oil to the turbo. And also you may wanna look in to new injectors and a bigger fuel pump.

ok, basically my idea is the same but for a different engine. I have the B20 still and seeing as it is at least 6 years newer I would rather turbo that. now with 8.8:1 it has 126 HP, 133 ft./lbs

I was thinking of l;eaving it like that and throw on lots of boost, but am unsure of how much the turbo I got can push. also I have spent a pretty penny on JE 11:1 pistons for it. I have heard that an LS can handle about 11-12 psi and a GSR can handle about 8-9 psi safely if tuned properly. and I think it is like 9.6:1 and 10.2:1 for those 2 cars

now what thickness of a head gasket would I need to drop it down to around 10:1, then I will throw about 8 pounds at it. I realy dont know cuz the wastegate is internal and is non adjustable, but I doubt it is much boost cuz its off of an older MX6 I think.

ok, now does anybody know where I can go get info on the turbo I have. I wanna know what the gates set at so I know if I wanna up the comp[ression or not. since its already tiued in HP, and has much more torque earlier than my ZC, it will already be a great improvement. so then with the turbo it will be even greater.

so if it turns out to be lots of boost, aqnybody wanna buy some JE 111:1 pistons for a B20, if you go crvtec with them it will be about 11.2:1 I was told by the guy at JE.

ill post some pics later, but for now it is IHI is alls I know off hand

Its was probably about 10psi give ot take a few. A stock Mitsu 14b from the 90-94 DSM's could push 20-22psi, but at the much boost on that small of a turbo your blowing a lot of hot air. And if its from an older MX6, your talking pre-93 I doubt its even as good as the 14b, and it probably doesn't have much life left in it anyway.

ok, well, the exhaust side is 1.75" dia. and the compressor side is 1.5" dia.

would it be a god idea to run some of that low weight detergent synthetic to flush the engine and the turbine and cleasn out any deposits? and what abot an inline poil cooler on the oil feed line to the turbo?

ok here it is

and it says
line 1- turbo spec VF28507
line 2- serial no. RHB524 32
line 3- parts no. 14412AA002

first pic

pic2

pic3

pic 4