2001 Lesabre Pulls to the left while driving

ok well i have a 2001 lesabre and when i drive if i let go of the steering wheel at any speed the car tries to turn to the left. i replaced the brakes this past fall and the tie rod ends. I dont know if this is connected to my problem or not but also when i first start the car, when i put it in gear to get out of my garage, it will act as if the brakes are holding the car still then ill hear a loud pop and the car will move normally. and when i come to a stop at a light, stop sign, etc, sometimes when the car is almost stopped it will jerk forward and stutter like the brakes(?) are pulsing and im sure everyone outside the car can hear and see this. the front driver side tire is also wearing uneven as well just on the outside edge and the passenger side too but no so much. I looked at the the brakes and they look like they are wearing evenly on both sides but the driver brake piston was VERY hard to push even with a large c-clamp. I was thinking maybe this was the prob, it might be seizing up but i wont replace it until i get a better idea of what im dealing with. as always any and all info tips or suggestions are welcome this forum has never let me down so thanks in advance peoples.

It's possible that left caliper is hanging up.....

If you have a portable lift jack, first thing I would do, is have someone start car, apply e-brake.......step on brake, shift into neutral...jack up front end...take foot off the brake, and see if you can easily rotate the left wheel by hand, and then compare it to the right side. If there is resistance on the left side, and sliding pins are ok, and there is no contact interference, probably need a caliper

Go for a ride, applying the brakes several times(don't overheat them), and do the same test in a safe area....

Tire pressures the same? Replaced the tie rods? Did you get an alignment?

No I didn't get an alignment (couldn't afford it. I know im gonna get majorly chewed out for that), so im sure thats whats up with the tires. I dont have a portable lift but i know someone who does and i will do exactly as you suggested and update as soon as i can. thanks again for the info

i replaced the brakes this past fall and the tie rod ends. I dont know if this is connected to my problem or not but also when i first start the car, when i put it in gear to get out of my garage, it will act as if the brakes are holding the car still then ill hear a loud pop and the car will move normally.

The holding back when first put in gear sounds like it is a caliper dragging. The noise may be from a hot pad that stuck to the rotor after the car was stopped. If your wheels have holes big enough and if you can drive the car without using the front brakes for a mile or so and then stop it using the parking brake, then get out and touch carefully the caliper, rotor, and one or both pad edges to see what's hot. It may be very hot, so touch carefully.

Were the slide bolts lubed when the brakes were replaced using a lube meant for disk brakes? I think you need to take both off and do the lube work on them, even with the small packets they sell of lube next to the registers at auto box stores if you don't want to buy a small container.

The lead may be from the tie rod end replacements if the alignment wasn't checked and reset after they were done.

You also might have a bushing on the A-arm that has worn and is allowing movement there.

Yea I made sure to grease them when I did the brakes, i had an experience with my girlfriends car. She bought it and then when I went to do the brakes i had to buy a whole new assembly because the pins were seized in the worst way possible. Unfortunately I have the aluminum rims with the small slots, so it would be too much trouble to try and stick my finger in between them. I'm just going to replace the calipers and assemblies on both sides and get an alignment. I agree with the rotor dragging as well. When I press the brake to stop the car kind of veers to the left side, not to the point that I think I'm going to lose control, but noticeable. Thanks for the info and I will update as soon as I make progress. SN: I just realized we are in the same city! How you like this winter were having?

I'm just going to replace the calipers and assemblies on both sides and get an alignment. I agree with the rotor dragging as well. When I press the brake to stop the car kind of veers to the left side,

If I remember right, with a dragging caliper the car pulls to the other side when brake is applied. So you might check the right caliper extra well and see if you can tell it's dragging either from the piston or the slides before replacing both. I'd also watch the rotor on the dragging side for warping. If it doesn't grab and let go when cold at lower speeds, you may get by on it.

Remember to check the rear suspension.

As for our weather, this is normal winter other than lots of extra cold nights and days over the 4-5 we would usually have. I'm tired of it and glad our local rodent at the museum saw it's shadow on Groundhog Day. I'm ready for spring.

You also might have a bushing on the A-arm that has worn and is allowing movement there.

Or a strut mount, but both of those can make a detectable noise.

I had the same issue my was one of my rear frame rubber mounts has rusted out. To check look just aft of the tire where the motor support frame attaches to the frame with a large round 3" rubber grommet.. They are fairly easy to repair given basic tools and parts. If so, repair isn't costly. The bolt screws into a frame hidden captive nut.

how does the car ride? any vibration ? I am thinking the pop noise is one of the CV joints as long as you are not turning the wheel at the time of the pop. if the "pop" noise is every day when you start out. Why not park on a hill facing down the hill. Get in, do not start the engine, put the trans in neutral release the brake and coast...do u still hear the pop ?. How are the wheel bearings any lateral play. any other issues with the car as slight as they may be?

On Sunday I'm off work so I'm going to go and look at everything you guys suggested. I'm going to replace the guide pins on the passenger side they were a pain to remove when I checked my brakes last week see if that helps. I'll have an update Sunday afternoon as always thanks for the info!!!!

After re-reading these posts, one thing I forgot to mention.....

Drive your vehicle....then park car ,in Neutral, apply e-brake/block rear wheels, raise front end....rotate one front wheel and then then other....if the LF is harder to rotate, remove both front wheels......without removing the caliper, use large channel locks/C-clamps to retract piston on rf caliper....does it go in easy?
Now using rags or gloves(caliper may be hot), move caliper side to side to test the sliding pins....should move easily.....

Now go to the LF, driver's side...start to retract the piston...if it is initially hard to move, stop....open the bleeder valve....now continue to retract the piston....if it is now easy to retract, then you have a possible bad rubber brake line....if it is still hard to retract, then it's a piston/caliper problem....

If it went in easy, close the bleeder, and move the caliper side to side to test the sliding pins....

Thanks I'm going to do that as well. It's rather annoying having to deal with this I just hope the solution is a simple one and not anything crazy. I do appreciate all the help you guys give!