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Fuel Pressure Sensor 1999 Mystique


lionheartsails
02-07-2014, 09:55 AM
I have diagnosed my issue to the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. It appears the diaphragm is blown. I can get the car to run fine by plugging the vacuum hose nipple and disconnecting the wiring but now the check engine light is on. I have tried Ford and every other parts house I can think of and I am unable to find a replacement Fuel Pressure Sensor. Ford says its a discontinued part.

Anybody have a source for a Fuel Pressure Sensor or a work around for the check engine light?

Thanks

1999 Mercury Mystique V6-2540 2.5L DOHC

50451

rhandwor
02-09-2014, 07:11 AM
I have diagnosed my issue to the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor. It appears the diaphragm is blown. I can get the car to run fine by plugging the vacuum hose nipple and disconnecting the wiring but now the check engine light is on. I have tried Ford and every other parts house I can think of and I am unable to find a replacement Fuel Pressure Sensor. Ford says its a discontinued part.

Anybody have a source for a Fuel Pressure Sensor or a work around for the check engine light?

Thanks

1999 Mercury Mystique V6-2540 2.5L DOHC

50451
http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/a5-5g1143

lionheartsails
02-09-2014, 09:32 AM
rhandwor,

Thanks. I saw this. I called them and they don't have any in stock. I have found it listed on several websites but nobody has it in stock. At this point I think I'm going to have to find a work around and/or try to get a waiver for the State Inspection.

rhandwor
02-09-2014, 11:08 AM
rhandwor,

Thanks. I saw this. I called them and they don't have any in stock. I have found it listed on several websites but nobody has it in stock. At this point I think I'm going to have to find a work around and/or try to get a waiver for the State Inspection.
I found a couple of others one said one in stock. Send me a private email and I will send you a link. To hard to make one I use my browser.

rhandwor
02-09-2014, 01:08 PM
Google Duralast SU13803 The Airtex unit sold.
Wells SU13803

lionheartsails
02-17-2014, 08:52 PM
II Found One:
XS4Z9F972DA Ford Sensor - Fuel Injector Pressure
on ebay from
ford-parts-depot
It appears to be working but have only put 5 miles.
One thing that has happened which I don't think is related but began the first time I started the car after replacing is the following electrical do not work:
Radio
Key-less entry remote
Side mirror remote
Interior light
The sensor that prevents you from removing the ignition key unless in park
These are the things I have found so far.

rhandwor
02-18-2014, 06:41 AM
II Found One:
XS4Z9F972DA Ford Sensor - Fuel Injector Pressure
on ebay from
ford-parts-depot
It appears to be working but have only put 5 miles.
One thing that has happened which I don't think is related but began the first time I started the car after replacing is the following electrical do not work:
Radio
Key-less entry remote
Side mirror remote
Interior light
The sensor that prevents you from removing the ignition key unless in park
These are the things I have found so far.
Stop at Auto Zone and have codes deleted from the computer. Drive for a while and have them recheck this is a free service.
Check all fuses for these items. Was everything shut down before plugging in new sensor?

lionheartsails
02-19-2014, 12:33 PM
No codes are coming up. The car was off but the battery was not disconnected. All fuses have been checked and are ok.

I'm wondering if it the diode in the fude block. (reverse voltage protection).

It appears that most everything on the bottom row of the fuse block under the dash is affected.

rhandwor
02-19-2014, 12:59 PM
No codes are coming up. The car was off but the battery was not disconnected. All fuses have been checked and are ok.

I'm wondering if it the diode in the fude block. (reverse voltage protection).

It appears that most everything on the bottom row of the fuse block under the dash is affected.
I would disconnect the battery ground and pick up the electrical center and look for broken or burned wires. I check diodes with an ohm meter current will flow one way if no current flow reverse the leads. If you have a Haynes manual with an electrical diagram check grounds usually around the kick panels.
Use a test light or DVOM and check voltages on both sides of the fuses. Their is an opening on top where the probe will hit both sides of the fuses.

lionheartsails
04-17-2014, 11:54 AM
I have have physically check all the fuses with a meter in the Power Distribution Box (under hood) and Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel.


Fuses 29, 31, 33, & 35 have no power on the (+) side of the fuse block (lower bank of passenger compartment fuse panel.

rhandwor
04-17-2014, 06:43 PM
I have have physically check all the fuses with a meter in the Power Distribution Box (under hood) and Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel.


Fuses 29, 31, 33, & 35 have no power on the (+) side of the fuse block (lower bank of passenger compartment fuse panel.
Older Fords have fuseable links located in wires coming from the starter these are two wire sizes smaller than the wire.
Newer Ford's have fuseable links in the electrical panel under hood. Ford's have the amp rating on top and look like a big fuse.

lionheartsails
04-18-2014, 01:47 PM
I have check the Fusible links in the Distribution Block under the hood with a meter. I checked the wiring on the back of the distribution block for loose / burned wiring. The insulation on all the wiring around the distribution block and around / under the battery appear to be in good condition.

All fuses in both fuse boxes and both Diodes check out OK.

No Codes are registering.

Next step, I guess, is to find a wiring diagram of the cabin fuse block?

Still puzzled why Fuses 29, 31, 33, & 35 have no power on the (+) side of the fuse block (lower bank of passenger compartment fuse panel).

Beside the above listed electrical issues, I also noticed the PAT light in the center of the dash no longer flashes like it did before theses issues arose.

rhandwor
04-18-2014, 02:07 PM
I have check the Fusible links in the Distribution Block under the hood with a meter. I checked the wiring on the back of the distribution block for loose / burned wiring. The insulation on all the wiring around the distribution block and around / under the battery appear to be in good condition.

All fuses in both fuse boxes and both Diodes check out OK.

No Codes are registering.

Next step, I guess, is to find a wiring diagram of the cabin fuse block?

Still puzzled why Fuses 29, 31, 33, & 35 have no power on the (+) side of the fuse block (lower bank of passenger compartment fuse panel).

Beside the above listed electrical issues, I also noticed the PAT light in the center of the dash no longer flashes like it did before theses issues arose.
Did you check with the ignition switch on if so use a volt meter and check outlet of ignition switch.

lionheartsails
04-18-2014, 04:12 PM
Did you check with the ignition switch on if so use a volt meter and check outlet of ignition switch.

Here is what I am getting at the Ignition Switch:

Grey/White: Start
Black: n/a
Black/Blue: n/a
Yellow: ACC - On

Orange: +
n/a
Red/Black: Key - ACC - On - Start
Green: On - Start

rhandwor
04-19-2014, 07:53 AM
Here is what I am getting at the Ignition Switch:

Grey/White: Start
Black: n/a
Black/Blue: n/a
Yellow: ACC - On

Orange: +
n/a
Red/Black: Key - ACC - On - Start
Green: On - Start
http://www.ebay.com/ search 370883559885 Check the color wire of terminals your not getting power on at the steering column. If this doesn't work purchase a Haynes manual at the parts store for your vehicle. Look at the wiring diagram and check source for each wire that needs power. You can also purchase a relay at the parts store and make replacement feeds for these items. This is what I did for my tractor horns.

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