Outlaw Monte Carlo

After seeing YJGW's Mustang, and that beautiful 1969 Camaro done by someone else, i figured i needed to get my own 1/4 racing car started. I saw a 1971 Monte Carlo @ Richmond Int'l Drag Way. It looked beautiful. Well, heres my own version. (This better comeout right, i cut my finger up BAD trying to make a hole in the hood.. :angryfire

Hood scoop used from AMT Nova prostreet
Rear chassis used from AMT Nova Prostreet

heres the engine. Dont know what size it is.. 350 or 402 :confused:

nice engine/car... lets see you put some real detail into this. That engine is screaming for some wiring.


Seb, heres a tip on cutting holes in the hood, or just cutting out doors, etc. Light a candle and hold the blade in the flame for a little bit, then slide right through the plastic. You will have to do a little sanding afterwards, but this technique has never failed me.

heres the rear end

pffttt..... you should have made a custom 4link coil over rear suspension for it ;)

my idea is quciker... ghetto, prolly not a good idea, but it works.. Just put a flathead screw driver where you wanna cut, and hit it with a hammer till it goes through the plastic .... :rolleyes:

:lol:

EEEP! Hot blade techniques. I tried that once and I'm never doing it again.

I use a medical razor saw for my straight cuts, an exacto razor saw blade for free-hand cuts, and open panels by scribing with the backside of a #11 exacto blade. It takes a while, but I don't end up having to piece back together the cut parts to make up for lost plastic or deal with fit issues.

I like your approach to the Monte. It'll need quite a bit of lowering to get it to a street stalker stance, though. Hope it all works out in the end.

ive never had problems with loss of plastic on my pieces ive cut using the heated blade. I guess its just all in technique :confused:

a sweet yellow

engine & interior

I just realized this is a SS454...

I just realized this is a SS454 :biggrin:

no cage? :confused:

very sweet lemon yellow!:bigthumb: :dogpile:

no cage yet ..

werd

Nice yellow.

Next time for cutting... go with the cotton string ! Great way to go whitout any injuries to come.

BTW, this car will kick butt, very slick and cool.

i would have puttied up the side of the scoop

i was thinking about doing that... :rolleyes: but anyways, heres the cage, i have to do touch up painting because i built the cage inside the interior before i painted it.

nice


wats the duct tape 4?

only thing i gotta do now is paint all the chrome trim.. :rolleyes:

big, bad 454 (wired it up, still gonna need to put in the hoses, and master brake cylender.)

GRRRRRR :angryfire :angryfire :angryfire first i painted the trim, and painted all the door lines black. Then i phucked up on the window trim, so i used some paint thinner to remove the mistake, then it dried to quick, so i had silver smeared all over, then it wouldnt wipe the black away, then i tried to blow a fly away, and i accidently spit on it while the new coat of paint was drying... :bricks1: then the paint bottle wasnt working so it would "spit" bubbles of paint out so i got dots all over it...
:angryfire

installed new disc brakes up front.

is it clearcoated yet? doesnt look too glossy. btw how bad did u mess it up?

its actually glossy, and just imagine silver smeared down the ENTIRE side, roof, and trunk of your car

looks good, im glad to see you made a car that wasnt that twilight blue color:biggrin:

i like it so far!:bigthumb:

Ouch. Sounds like you really got bit by the same bug that plagued modelers for generations (especially back in the 60's when all the cars had chrome).

You need Bare Metal Foil for that trim in the future. The stuff works wonders, and looks ten times better than paint to boot.

I dunno if anyone ever had this kit, it was a street machine 1957 Chevy Bel Air, it was blue with Corvette 5-spoke rims on the box. Also the box was a bit larger then most boxes. But anyways, it came with photoetched parts, and it came with "bair metal foil" It was like tinfoil with a stickey side. Everytime i tried to cut it, it would always rip off where i wanted it to go. Is the REAL Bair Metal Foil like this?

A bit more resilient, but yes. You need to use a fresh #11 Exacto blade whenever you're working with foil in order to cut it cleanly without tearing the foil. Here's a pic of the results foil can get you as opposed to silver paint.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/390144Nomad_1.jpg

It's just a box stock Monogram '57 Nomad with nail-polish paint and wheels out of a Monogram '69 Camaro. But all the chrome trim was done with Bare Metal Foil.

would my local hobby store have Bare Metal Foil? Also i need some Tamiyia Wax, and Tamiyia rubbing compund..

They ought to, in several types as well. There's chrome, ultra-bright chrome (which tears easier and loses its luster with a few fingerprints), matte aluminum, copper, gold, and "black chrome" for doing trim on modern cars.

Expect to pay about $5 a sheet, and a sheet is usually good for about 5-10 cars, depending on the amount of chrome per car and how much you burn up with mistakes and trimming excess.

i did a complete engine swap dont know what size, but im sure its making over 700HP

long tube exhaust headers :biggrin:

:bigthumb: great job on this car :bigthumb:

nice,pro street :tongue:
you have to look into outlaw class i dont ever remember then using scoop hoods. this one is only 5 bucks at afx resin

http://www.afxnscaleresin.150m.com/images/70%20Monte%20hood.jpg