Hicas Problems?????

I have a 1994 r33 skyline gts and the hicas light came on a couple of times and it has not been on again since. Although now when i am parking or doing slow sharp turns, there is this huge bang sound that sounds like i have hit something but you can feel it right throughout the car. this only has happened whilst reverse parking when turning the steering wheel all the way to right and then when i go to turn it back the other way the noise happens. it sounds like it is my power steering but i really dont know.:confused: has anybody experienced anything like this before?

Hey Beth,

I would do a diagnostic on your car, I have heard that some 33's have that problem with rear suspension. Do you have lower springs?

Cheers,
Doc

thanks doc,

no i dont have lower springs, i havent really done any mods as yet...pretty stock at the moment.

Here are the instruction to get into diagnostic mode. Hope this helps. I got this from http://www.geocities.com/skyline_gtst_2001. ALso check your fluid levels. If you have an aftermarket steering wheel, this also will stuff up your HICAS.

Regards,
Doc (aka Ben):smoker2:


To get into HICAS diagnostics for R33:

1) Switch ignition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park.

2) Start engine

3) Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from center five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more - this will enter diagnostic mode.

4) Drive forwards or backwards about 5 meters at a speed less than 10 kph, this will enter full diagnostic mode.

5) The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems.

Long flash = first digit
short flash = second digit.

Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10k/pH, or ignition is turned off. Result codes:



11 HICAS control unit
12 HICAS motor power supply not present
13 HICAS motor output not present
21 Vehicle speed sensor not present
22 Steering angle sensor not present
23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present
24 Rear main sensor input not present
25 Rear sub sensor input not present
31 Parking brake sensor input not present
32 (Auto) Inhibitor switch input not present
(Manual) Neutral switch input not present
33 Engine speed signal not present

Make sure you do it a couple of times to ensure that you are getting a consistent set of codes.

Information by Arithon
Auto diagnostics for Transmission:

Most of the diagnostic routines are very similar even though the cars are different models.

So, here it is. I have not yet been able to verify if this works in a R32.

1) Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on

2) Start the engine - the power light will go out after 2 seconds

3) Turn the ignition off

4) Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release)

5) Overdrive off

6) Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on

7) Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2

8) Overdrive on

9) Move the selector to 1

10) Overdrive Off

11) Press the accelerator fully and release

12) Hopefully the power light will flash out a series of

10 or 11 flashes. Anyone experiment with the above (and variations) to confirm?

Here are the auto trans codes. The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes. Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes.



1st flash longer: revolution sensor shorted or disconnected
2nd flash longer: speed sensor shorted or disconnected
3rd flash longer: throttle sensor shorted or disconnected
4th flash longer: shift solenoid A shorted or disconnected
5th flash longer: shift solenoid B shorted or disconnected
6th flash longer: overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconnected
7th flash longer: lockup solenoid shorted or disconnected
8th flash longer: fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or the control unit power source is damaged
9th flash longer: engine revolution sensor shorted or disconnected
10th flash longer: line pressure solenoid shorted or disconnected

All flashes the same with no long start flash: battery voltage low, has been recently disconnected or control unit has just been reconected.

aight Ben

thanks heaps for that....ill give it a go.;)

There was a similar question somewhere recently on this subject. Turned out a screw had come loose inside the 'black box' and was shorting the circuit board. Might be a place to start.

I had a similar problem in a R32, there wasnt a bang but the rear end gave a kick and got pretty fidgity....
Turns out the screw had come loose inside the HICAS unit and when going round a sharp corner or bump it would move round on the circuit board inside the unit and start doing all sorts of weird stuff to the steering...
Easily fixed though after taking the control unit out..... suggest that you give it a look