I finally got ABS codes to work with

Well I finally got my abs module fixed on my 2001 DOHC taurus (see my other 3+ year long post) and now my abs scanner can communicate with my abs. I thought it was funny that I got my traction control light back on start up and my brake light is off but I don't see the ABS light flash when I start the car so, worried, I plugged in my scanner and this is what I got:

U1262 SCP communication failure
B1484 Brake pedal input open circuit
C1165 RR speed sensor input CKT failure

The input sensor is easy, I'll check that this weekend and replace if necessary.

I did some google searches on the other two and didn't get much info at all. I'm wondering if that omminous sounding SCP COMM Failure is why my ABS light doesn't come on and my ABS is not working although the traction control seems to be.
I'm also going to go back to BBA REMAN, who fixed my module to asked them if it's the module, meaning they really didn't fix it.

The abs light is not on when I'm driving.

The saga continues:banghead:

The ABS probably is not working due to the RR speed sensor code and the brake pedal input open circuit code. I suspect if you fix those two issues your codes will go away. There's a good chance the U1262 code is just due to a loss of power to the module due to being removed from the car for a period of time.

-Rod

Thanks Rod!

I hope that is the case. I'd hate to have to remove that module again. I've learned the true meaning of patience working on this car.:naughty:

Well I did end up removing the module again (gets easier every time as I get the routine down). Sent it Back to BBA but they checked it and said there was nothing wrong with it? Huh? so I put it back in and scanned it and had the same three codes, including the RR sensor even thoough I changed it. That gave me an idea. I have this Actron CP9449 scanner that I bought years ago when this issue first happened with this ABS. But it can't erase codes, only read them. Well guess what I went to the website and they had a software update for it that allows for erasing codes. So I downloaded the update into my scanner, ran out to the car and cleared all the codes. It's been three days of sriving and no codes so I guess my system is working!! Only issue is I don't get the ABS light on startup. Is that light a bulb or LED. Is it possible I'm dealing with a burned out bulb on my instrument cluster? I would think I would get a code for that.

Unless someone's changed it out, the ABS warning light would be a bulb. I know if the bulb for the airbag system is removed or burned out it will trigger a code and sound the chime, but I'm not so sure the ABS system would trigger either a code or a chime.

-Rod

Rod,

I looked my old instrument cluster ( I swapped it out because the backlighting bulbs kept burning out due to some short somewhere) and the Antilock brake bulb looks like an LED to me. I guess I can pull my cluster and swap out the LEDs to see if that works, or take ouot the LED and run 12 volts across it to see if it lights up.

At any rate both my traction control and ABS do work as we had a nasty snow event a couple of days ago right during rush hour and both systems came into play. Fixed it just in time so my long 3 year plus saga is over!:lol2:
I hope this experience and information can help someone else out there who runs into a similar issue.

I really doubt it's an LED, but that can be pretty easy to test if you have a standard multimeter. Just about every multimeter I've seen has a diode test mode and an LED will only conduct in one direction. Along that same though, if it's an LED it would need to be in a polarized mounting fixture so the anode and cathode always end up in the proper orientation.

Also, the typical forward voltage drop for an LED is 1.2 - 3 V depending on chemistry/color. If you apply 12V across a typical LED without a current limiting resistor, you will burn it up. There are 12V LEDs that have built in current limiting, but those generally cost more so I would expect Ford to just install a current limiting resistor on the trace for the instrument cluster versus using 12V LEDs.

-Rod

Thanks for that tip Rod. Well it looks like an LED but what do I know. I'll try to get a picture of it and post it. I know it will go into the cluster one way, maybe because it is polarized. Glad I didn't put 12 volts across it.

Well it was the bulb (or LED) after all. I pulled the cluster and swapped out the bulb from my old cluster and now it lights up along with the traction control when the car starts up. Of course now the transaxle light, which is right next to the ABS light, no longer lights:banghead: I must have bumped it or something but at this point I'm done pulling that stupid dash. Maybe after the snow melts if I'm not preoccupied with any other issues that invariably will crop up.