1993 Window Motor Tips
half-fast
10-04-2013, 10:13 AM
The procedure for repairing the nylon clutch in the door motor assembly has been covered in several posts, but I found the procedures missing a few vital points. I have received a lot of help from ya'll here, so here's my feeble attempt at partial payback.
I just finished replacing the nylon inserts in the passenger side front window motor clutch for my 93 Town Car. I have read several tech tips that say you must drill holes through the door sheet metal to gain access to the 3 square drive (robertson) screws that attach the motor/clutch housing to the regulator. This is not necessary. Once the 3 rivets that attach the motor bracket to the door are removed (as covered in other posts), the 1993 motor and bracket can be manipulated separately for each of the 3 square drive screws to be accessed through existing holes in the sheet metal. The #3 square drive tool can be inserted through the holes to loosen the screws, and the assembly can be rotated to pull the screws out completely. The motor, clutch housing & bracket can then be removed for service. No holes have to be drilled in a 1993 pass front door to remove the #3 square drive screws.
The #3 square drive screws are very difficult to re-install, and it requires some acrobatics for your fingers, but it can be done by using both hands through the access ports/holes.
Also... the nylon inserts (Dorman/Help #74409) were completely pulverized from repeated attempts to raise the window. The pulverized particles and chunks were distributed throughout the entire clutch housing including the area to each side of the worm drive gear. I tried to blow them out with air pressure, but the grease held them intact. When I removed the 4 screws (torx 20) that hold the motor case to the clutch housing and pulled the motor armature and gear from the clutch housing, I found the remaining grease to be completely full of nylon chunks. These would have made quick work of the new gear and inserts.
Also, while cleaning the clutch housing, cleaning solvent will seep into the motor case and inundate the bearing/bushing in the rear of the case. There is nothing in the design to prevent this. So if/when the clutch housing is cleaned with solvent, it is necessary to completely disassemble the motor and clutch to remove ALL of the old grease and re-lube the motor shaft/bushing. I used an old toothbrush handle (non-magnetic) to place a dab of grease into the rear bushing.
The commutator (copper segments) on the motor armature was also all crudded up. It needed to be cleaned for proper operation of the motor.
When the motor housing is removed and the motor armature (and worm gear) is pulled out of the clutch housing, the motor brushes and springs will pop out of their slides. To re-assemble, push the springs back in with the brushes and wrap a wire/paper tie (such as found on a loaf of bread) around each brush/spring to keep the brushes in place, pre-lube the bushing in the clutch housing, then insert the pre-lubricated armature/worm gear into the clutch housing. Then remove the ties to allow the brushes to snap back into place on the armature. To reinstall the motor case onto the clutch housing and not have the armature fly out due to the case magnets, hold the armature in place by placing your thumb on the worm gear. Slide the motor case over the armature and get 1 screw snugged. Release the worm gear and finish up.
I have to do the same operation on the driv rear door and if it is different, I'll report back.
I just finished replacing the nylon inserts in the passenger side front window motor clutch for my 93 Town Car. I have read several tech tips that say you must drill holes through the door sheet metal to gain access to the 3 square drive (robertson) screws that attach the motor/clutch housing to the regulator. This is not necessary. Once the 3 rivets that attach the motor bracket to the door are removed (as covered in other posts), the 1993 motor and bracket can be manipulated separately for each of the 3 square drive screws to be accessed through existing holes in the sheet metal. The #3 square drive tool can be inserted through the holes to loosen the screws, and the assembly can be rotated to pull the screws out completely. The motor, clutch housing & bracket can then be removed for service. No holes have to be drilled in a 1993 pass front door to remove the #3 square drive screws.
The #3 square drive screws are very difficult to re-install, and it requires some acrobatics for your fingers, but it can be done by using both hands through the access ports/holes.
Also... the nylon inserts (Dorman/Help #74409) were completely pulverized from repeated attempts to raise the window. The pulverized particles and chunks were distributed throughout the entire clutch housing including the area to each side of the worm drive gear. I tried to blow them out with air pressure, but the grease held them intact. When I removed the 4 screws (torx 20) that hold the motor case to the clutch housing and pulled the motor armature and gear from the clutch housing, I found the remaining grease to be completely full of nylon chunks. These would have made quick work of the new gear and inserts.
Also, while cleaning the clutch housing, cleaning solvent will seep into the motor case and inundate the bearing/bushing in the rear of the case. There is nothing in the design to prevent this. So if/when the clutch housing is cleaned with solvent, it is necessary to completely disassemble the motor and clutch to remove ALL of the old grease and re-lube the motor shaft/bushing. I used an old toothbrush handle (non-magnetic) to place a dab of grease into the rear bushing.
The commutator (copper segments) on the motor armature was also all crudded up. It needed to be cleaned for proper operation of the motor.
When the motor housing is removed and the motor armature (and worm gear) is pulled out of the clutch housing, the motor brushes and springs will pop out of their slides. To re-assemble, push the springs back in with the brushes and wrap a wire/paper tie (such as found on a loaf of bread) around each brush/spring to keep the brushes in place, pre-lube the bushing in the clutch housing, then insert the pre-lubricated armature/worm gear into the clutch housing. Then remove the ties to allow the brushes to snap back into place on the armature. To reinstall the motor case onto the clutch housing and not have the armature fly out due to the case magnets, hold the armature in place by placing your thumb on the worm gear. Slide the motor case over the armature and get 1 screw snugged. Release the worm gear and finish up.
I have to do the same operation on the driv rear door and if it is different, I'll report back.
half-fast
10-16-2013, 11:01 AM
Update... just finished the rear passenger door. The 3 square drive screws are easily reached just by pulling the assembly toward the opening in the door sheet metal. This motor had absolutely NO grease on the rear (opposite commutator) sleeve bearing in the motor. It was never applied during the manufacturing process. Pulverized pieces of plastic filled the worm gear cavity completely.
half-fast
10-17-2013, 04:05 PM
I just did the drivers side rear window gear and found that somebody had drilled those fugly holes all over the sheet metal. Apparently a previous "mechanic" installed a gear kit. I don't know his name, so I'll just call him "bubba". What a friggin mess he made. To top it off, he didn't clean out the cavity where the worm gear (armature) sits... and it was FULL of plastic chips from the previous destroyed gear set. The chips were all mixed in with the new gear and had started to grind the new gear up. The buttons were okay, but I just replaced the whole shootin' match (after cleaning & re-lubing the motor etc).
So just for grins, I pulled the panel off the drivers side front to see if bubba was in there too... and sure enough... the sheet metal is slaughtered, AND, bubba hit the wiring harness with the drill bit and frayed 3 wires in the loom... and just left it that way. In order to keep the loom fitting properly, I had to strip the insulation off each wire for about 1-1/2 inches, wrap the frayed wire with strands off copper from a new piece of wire, solder the mess, tape them up individually, and then re-tape the loom.
Now I'm wondering what else I'll find on this car. :(
So just for grins, I pulled the panel off the drivers side front to see if bubba was in there too... and sure enough... the sheet metal is slaughtered, AND, bubba hit the wiring harness with the drill bit and frayed 3 wires in the loom... and just left it that way. In order to keep the loom fitting properly, I had to strip the insulation off each wire for about 1-1/2 inches, wrap the frayed wire with strands off copper from a new piece of wire, solder the mess, tape them up individually, and then re-tape the loom.
Now I'm wondering what else I'll find on this car. :(
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