McLaren MP 4/6

ace91

09-16-2013, 12:05 AM

ZEQUIELLE

09-16-2013, 08:45 AM

Beware, this kit has a terrible fitting problem, the engine cowling does not fit when te monocoque is finished. Try to make a test fitting, y may be useful to grind inside the cowling to make it fit .....

ace91

09-16-2013, 09:45 AM

Thanks for the advise. I will take note on that.

Have you made Williams FW 14B made by Fujimi? Any fitting issue? Cause I'm planning to build that kit after the MP 4/6. Maybe next time I'll try to make MP 4/4 Tamiya version I guess for a change. :wink:

Adrian

ace91

09-27-2013, 12:03 PM

stevenoble

09-27-2013, 01:18 PM

Nice work so far, it looks very good. I too started this kit many months ago but lost interest due to many little problems with it. It can be built into a really nice model it just takes a lot of extra work. Looking forward to seeing more progress..

Porsnatic

09-27-2013, 05:57 PM

Great work so far, what silver or chrome did you use for the headers?

ace91

09-27-2013, 10:49 PM

Great work so far, what silver or chrome did you use for the headers?

I used Mr Hobby H 8 (Silver).

Adrian

Porsnatic

09-28-2013, 09:29 AM

Aqueous?

I used Mr Hobby H 8 (Silver).

Adrian

ace91

09-28-2013, 10:52 AM

John18d

09-30-2013, 06:34 AM

wow Adrian - your skills are really improving
you're doing an excellent job on a problematic kit
John

ace91

09-30-2013, 09:32 AM

wow Adrian - your skills are really improving
you're doing an excellent job on a problematic kit
John

Thanks John,

Some more work on the project. The Malboro logo on the rear wing is kind of small for me when I looked up at photos on the car though the size for other parts are right. Oh, well.... :shakehead
This took me a while just now due to fitting problem as I have to sand on the red part & I have to drill the hole bigger so that the upper parts of the rear wing can fit. The black part below was suggested to be coloured with red in the instruction sheet. But somehow, it was kind of unusual then I look up again on the photos & just as I thought, it was black. Some instruction sheet it is. :shakehead

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/rearwingangle1_zps8565a700.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/rearwingangle1_zps8565a700.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/rearwingangle2_zpsdd28713d.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/rearwingangle2_zpsdd28713d.jpg.html)

Completed the both set of brake discs (The 2 below are the front brake discs while the other 2 are rear brake discs). I believe it would look good if there is photo etch for the brake discs but it would be pricey for me.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/brakes_zpsabb51cea.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/brakes_zpsabb51cea.jpg.html)

After completing the brake discs, I've attached the front brake discs on the front suspension. I have to drill a hole bigger on 2 parts of front suspension till they can fit.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/monocoquewithbrakesangle2_zps58f3f506.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/monocoquewithbrakesangle2_zps58f3f506.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/monocoquewithbrakesangle1_zps3578d3b0.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/monocoquewithbrakesangle1_zps3578d3b0.jpg.html)

I need some help here for this. The cowling is kind of down with 'measles' (photo below). If you guys notice, there are pink spots on the rear part of the cowl while the other part is all white as I managed to put enough coverage as partly was covered with Tamiya masking tape. I should have trusted my instinct that I should use the Tamiya masking tape instead of the tape provided in the kit cause the tape is hard to stick on as it comes off easily.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/cowlingwithmeaslesangle1_zps9d8e3165.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/cowlingwithmeaslesangle1_zps9d8e3165.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/cowlingwithmeaselsangle2_zps47be79e8.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/cowlingwithmeaselsangle2_zps47be79e8.jpg.html)

Guys, please I need some advice or recommendation to 'cure' that ''measles' on the cowl.

I painted the cowl & rear wing with TS-26 & florescent red (Not Tamiya as I have difficulty getting paints here)

Thanks.
Adrian

stevenoble

09-30-2013, 10:40 AM

Adrian, I think that cowl will need to be re-painted. It looks like the red has reacted with the white and has cracked on the second photo. Personally I would sand the whole thing back with wet and dry used wet. Make sure you remove all of the red and sand the white so that it is smooth and blemish free. What brand is the red by the way, it would help to know..?? Once it's all smooth clean it off with warm soapy water and allow it to air dry, then apply a nice even coat of fresh primer. Allow that to dry thoroughly, then wet and dry that back until smooth and re spray the Tamiya TS26 white. Let that harden for a week until you do any masking on it. The tape can mark Tamiya TS very easily if it's not properly hardened. Although it may look dry it can still be soft underneath.
Now the masking. Use Tamiya tape only. Stick the tape onto a cutting mat. Then using a steel ruler and a fresh, sharp, scalpel blade cut the tape into a thin strip, maybe 1mm wide. Use this thin strip to mask the cowl freehand. You will find that the thin tape will follow anywhere you want it to go and will not wrinkle. Once that's done you can use the thicker Tamiya tape to fill in the sections where you don't want any red. I also sometimes use a plastic bag for this taped on so I don't waste loads of expensive tape. Spray the red in light coats at first especially at the tape edge to prevent any paint creeping under the tape. You could also spray some clear first or a little of the white to seal the tape edges and prevent creep. Once you have the red on and it's the correct colour leave it for 30-40 mins and slowly remove the masking, don't go fast or you may pull off the red you just applied.
I hope all that makes good sense because it's a lot to take in. Any problems post here or PM me and I'll try to help you some more..
Oh and one last thing. Did you spray the white on first and then the red, or red first and put the white over the top of the red..?? Looks like you got some pink hue in the white on the second picture, almost as if the red has bled into the white..

ace91

09-30-2013, 11:10 AM

Adrian, I think that cowl will need to be re-painted. It looks like the red has reacted with the white and has cracked on the second photo. Personally I would sand the whole thing back with wet and dry used wet. Make sure you remove all of the red and sand the white so that it is smooth and blemish free. What brand is the red by the way, it would help to know..?? Once it's all smooth clean it off with warm soapy water and allow it to air dry, then apply a nice even coat of fresh primer. Allow that to dry thoroughly, then wet and dry that back until smooth and re spray the Tamiya TS26 white. Let that harden for a week until you do any masking on it. The tape can mark Tamiya TS very easily if it's not properly hardened. Although it may look dry it can still be soft underneath.
Now the masking. Use Tamiya tape only. Stick the tape onto a cutting mat. Then using a steel ruler and a fresh, sharp, scalpel blade cut the tape into a thin strip, maybe 1mm wide. Use this thin strip to mask the cowl freehand. You will find that the thin tape will follow anywhere you want it to go and will not wrinkle. Once that's done you can use the thicker Tamiya tape to fill in the sections where you don't want any red. I also sometimes use a plastic bag for this taped on so I don't waste loads of expensive tape. Spray the red in light coats at first especially at the tape edge to prevent any paint creeping under the tape. You could also spray some clear first or a little of the white to seal the tape edges and prevent creep. Once you have the red on and it's the correct colour leave it for 30-40 mins and slowly remove the masking, don't go fast or you may pull off the red you just applied.
I hope all that makes good sense because it's a lot to take in. Any problems post here or PM me and I'll try to help you some more..
Oh and one last thing. Did you spray the white on first and then the red, or red first and put the white over the top of the red..?? Looks like you got some pink hue in the white on the second picture, almost as if the red has bled into the white..

How do I sand the parts? I'm lost here in the first paragraph cause this is something I haven't done. How do I start? For the red, I used Nippon Paint (Not sure if your place has it). I was informed by the art shop that the colour is no longer in production.

For the tape, I would try that as it is something new to me.

I sprayed white first before painting the red parts. The pink spot there was my attempt to try to clear it up but looks like to no avail for me. That time I wanted to paint the front part of the cowl but kind of spread to the parts I didn't want to paint red. I should've shown the photo of the cowl before I attempted to try to undo the parts by spraying them in layers.

Thanks.

stevenoble

09-30-2013, 11:30 AM

How do I sand the parts? I'm lost here in the first paragraph cause this is something I haven't done. How do I start? For the red, I used Nippon Paint (Not sure if your place has it). I was informed by the art shop that the colour is no longer in production.

For the tape, I would try that as it is something new to me.

I sprayed white first before painting the red parts. The pink spot there was my attempt to try to clear it up but looks like to no avail for me. That time I wanted to paint the front part of the cowl but kind of spread to the parts I didn't want to paint red. I should've shown the photo of the cowl before I attempted to try to undo the parts by spraying them in layers.

Thanks.

Ok, I'm assuming you have some wet and dry sandpaper..?? Well if not you should be able to buy that at your local hobby shop or motor parts store. It comes in various grades or roughness. For sanding back the paint on the cowling either 1200 or 1000 grade will be adequate. Use it with some warm water and gently rub the painted areas using a back and forth motion. You will see the paint slowly coming off. Keep rinsing the sandpaper and the model with fresh water to prevent the sandpaper from clogging. Do this to the entire painted surface until it's nice and smooth.

John18d

09-30-2013, 12:10 PM

Adrian - Steve is correct - you will need to follow his direction to be able to have a good result.
your skills are improving so do not let a poor finish on the cowl spoil your work.If you do not understand any of the directions keep asking questions - I know Steve is very helpful and I can try also to help you understand
John

ace91

10-16-2013, 09:37 AM

Hi again,

It's been a while since I last posted. Didn't have much time making this kit due to other commitments.

Anyway, first and foremost, my gripe for this kit is the misfit of the parts. If you can see the completed photos below, you will notice the cowling couldn't be put up properly. Secondly, the tyre fittings are really questionable as I had difficulty attaching all the four tyres even though in this completed photos, you will notice that the tyres are not completely fitted in. Honestly, I was pretty aghast and my patience was tested that time.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/completedmodelangle1_zpsd58e0ffc.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/completedmodelangle1_zpsd58e0ffc.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/completedmodelangle2_zpsc7e07ba0.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/completedmodelangle2_zpsc7e07ba0.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/completedmodelangle3_zps5b1c736c.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/completedmodelangle3_zps5b1c736c.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/mclaren%20mp%204%206/completedmodelangle4_zps846d559f.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/mclaren%20mp%204%206/completedmodelangle4_zps846d559f.jpg.html)

When making this kit, my patience was really tested a lot & honestly, I did not expect a lot of misfits in this kit. Also, I hate to say this, but I will be kind of embarrassed if I were to show the photos of the interior as I have to compromise the details of the interior due to fitting issues when placing the engine & monocoque on the under panel parts.

Hopefully my upcoming project that is 1/20 Fujimi Williams FW14B will not test my patience as much compare to this.

stevenoble & John18d : I really like to thank you for the advice you gave me in cleaning up the pink dots on the cowling. It took me a while when I sanded off the coloured parts & repaint it again. Thanks again

Adrian

John18d

10-16-2013, 05:31 PM

Adrian you did a great job of salvaging the paint work - and refinishing it
I think this is your best F-1 build to date
Your skills are coming along well
Is the rear wing attached properly?? it appears to be angled upwards a little
Still well done Adrian
John

generationx

10-17-2013, 12:04 AM

Sounds like you had difficulties but its come out pretty good. And don't worry, the FW14 goes together quite well.

hirofkd

10-17-2013, 02:25 AM

You deserve credit for finishing the difficult kit.
Next time, spend extra time on dry fit. It's a standard procedure during preparation of any kit from old to new. Today's CAD-designed kits have extremely small tolerance, and deformation of plastic at the time of removal from the mold is very difficult to predict.
Most of the manufacturers (except for Tamiya and Bandai) don't spend extra time on correcting the mold by hand (and experienced mold masters are getting fewer), so some of the perfectly designed parts (on the computer) can have a bad fitment issue.
Dry fit should help you identify poor-fitting parts before painting, so the overall build quality will be better.

ace91

10-17-2013, 09:24 AM

Thanks guys

john18d : The rear wing part needed some work to be done & I wasn't sure of the positioning of creating extra spacing as the sheet wasn't clear enough. he he

hirokfd : I will take note. Thanks.

Adrian

stevenoble

10-17-2013, 10:31 AM

Well, despite the problems it came out very nice indeed. Big pat on the back for even finishing what is not an easy kit. You made good the paintwork, it looks much better and above all else you've learnt new things and different techniques to take forward to your next build. Well done, look forward to following your FW14b now..

Balls77

02-09-2017, 03:38 PM

Great job on this, I gave up halfway through and spend countless hours on trying to make the cowling fit on properly.

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