Inner tie rod end replacement

I noted I was getting some minor tire cupping on my right front tie and found some play in my passenger side inner tie rod. Before I get a new alignment I will replace it.

My factory manual shows using two wrenches to break loose the tie rod from the steering rack. I wondered if anyone knew about what size wrench is going to be needed. If it is 1.25" I will have to find a bigger one as my largest adjustable goes up to just under that. I know it is on tight so may be hard to break loose.

From watching some youtube video's I think there is a special tool I might can rent but I don't see anyone using a backer wrench on the rack side to prevent stressing or damage to the gears. Do you need to use a backer wrench on the rack side or not?

I know I will need to take the flex boot off to get to it but if anyone has removed the inner tie rod end and can remember what you used to break loose that joint I'd like to hear about it so I can get the tools I will need.

I will use some thread locker when I install the new one and probably use a zip tie or hose clamp for the inner side of that boot.

I noted I was getting some minor tire cupping on my right front tie and found some play in my passenger side inner tie rod. Before I get a new alignment I will replace it.

My factory manual shows using two wrenches to break loose the tie rod from the steering rack. I wondered if anyone knew about what size wrench is going to be needed. If it is 1.25" I will have to find a bigger one as my largest adjustable goes up to just under that. I know it is on tight so may be hard to break loose.

From watching some youtube video's I think there is a special tool I might can rent but I don't see anyone using a backer wrench on the rack side to prevent stressing or damage to the gears. Do you need to use a backer wrench on the rack side or not?

I know I will need to take the flex boot off to get to it but if anyone has removed the inner tie rod end and can remember what you used to break loose that joint I'd like to hear about it so I can get the tools I will need.

I will use some thread locker when I install the new one and probably use a zip tie or hose clamp for the inner side of that boot.


The special tool is the way to go, I have done several with that tool, without using a backer wrench, without having any issues. It should come with several different size adapters for the tie rod. As far as separating the outer tie rod from the knuckle, there is a tool for that also, but a few good whacks on the knuckle where tie rod stud goes through usually will loosen it. Don't use a pickle fork unless you want to tear the boot. Use the thread locker and a zip tie on the boot, then get your alignment done.

For anyone else doing this - the size of the flats on the inner tie rod are 1 7/16". There were no flats on the steering rod so I don't see where using a backer wrench would even be possible. There is no room to get a pipe wrench into that area either.

It was difficult to break loose even with a "special tool".

I really pulled a good one doing this job and it made for much more of a headache. After pulling the outer tie rod end and outer boot clamp I changed tools and position to get ready to remove the inner boot clamp which I knew would be more difficult to access and remove. I looked up and saw the clamp on that black inner boot and went to work getting it off. I couldn't cut it with my dikes and finally loosened the crimp connection and bent it enough to get it loose where I could push it off the backside of that boot - all the while thinking why did they use such a heavy duty clamp? Seemed way overkill to me - - and then I suddenly noticed I had just removed the clamp on the inner CV joint boot! :banghead:

Fortunately there were no women or children in the immediate area.

So I ended up spending part of the day running around trying to locate a large replacement clamp for the CV boot. I first found a set from Autozone called Speedi-boot that has a small buckle you have to bend back to tension the clamp. About the time I got the tension on it the buckle broke so that was a wasted effort.

Next I purchased a couple of 14" zip ties only to find they were 1/2" too short. Eventually I just used a large (4") screw-on hose clamp that seemed to secure the boot well. Nevertheless, I don't know if it will stay put with all the spinning force but I guess time will tell.... I might have to put some thread locker in it later and hope it doesn't create a balance issue.