Method to remove scrathes from see-through parts?

Anyone with some good advice on how to remove or minimize scratches on see through parts (in my case the windscreen) ?
Do I dare use a real fine micromesh, like a 12000 grade?

In the past I have covered scrathes up with a fine layer of clearcoat, but it is not a flawless method.

/J.

Anyone with some good advice on how to remove or minimize scratches on see through parts (in my case the windscreen) ?
Do I dare use a real fine micromesh, like a 12000 grade?

In the past I have covered scratches up with a fine layer of clearcoat, but it is not a flawless method.

/J.

I've used many methods over the years, including micromesh (fine only) I've also used rubbing compounds and a microfibre cloth, which works well, especially to remove the last of the fine scratches. Another tip is one of those polishing pads that ladies use to buff their nails, the ones with 3/4 different sides. You use them in order from roughest to smoothest and they create a mirror like surface. When I used to model aircraft I used them on the canopies to restore a glass like finish after removal of the central molding seem..

Just like polishing a car body start with 8000 and go all the way up. Then polish with a fine compound. Little scary but works will post link when i get home.

Ok found it go to : www.scale-racing.com
Then to tip and tricks

Its from a very good german modeler!!!

toothpaste works incredibly good as polish for such parts. better if really good quality one.

I use micromesh & plastic polish. Every one of my 1/12 Countach windscreens has a nasty set of marks across them. Plus in that scale, the parts aren't exactly clear as glass, so I sanded all the clear parts. They look much better now. Don't be too afraid to try it...12,000 grit is pretty fine & pretty well polishes on its own. I use them wet to prevent clogging...

toothpaste works incredibly good as polish for such parts. better if really good quality one.

:evillol: Toothpaste is cheap and readily available in my household.
Will give it a try when I get home.

On a Revell Corvette, I used 1500 sandpaper and clear coated with Tamiya clear. It did not melt the plastic. The clear coat will allow you to skip the finer grit sandpaper as metioned by several other members. Which I have also done and they are correct. I had a spare windshield so I could effectively not worry about melting the plastic or whatever disaster may have happened. So I don't recommend my method unless you have a way to test it.