2006 Taurus hard starting. Fuel pump?

My son bought an 06 Taurus sedan, 3.0L, 170k miles. When starting, it takes an excessive amount of cranking. Probably 5 seconds of cranking and then it seems to stumble to an idle. It isn't nearly as bad if it is started soon after shut down. I turned the key on to listen to the fuel pump and it seemed to "groan" to a stop instead of the crisp "whine" and crisp stop that a fuel pump usually makes. I'm quite sure I need to put a pump in, but wanted some expert opinions before I jump into a high dollar guess. I haven't checked fuel pressure on the rail. I plan to do that tomorrow afternoon. I've never done it before, so I plan to get a loaner gauge kit from the parts store and give it a whirl. I'm not sure what the pressure should be, but I've heard to check and see if the pressure achieved holds or quickly resides. Any info, tips or suggestions including proper fuel pressure readings would be greatly appreciated. Thanks gentlemen!

The fuel pressure, Key On, Engine Off, should be 30-55 psi. KOERunning should be 26-45 psi.

If the pressure is low you might want to replace the fuel filter before investing in a fuel pump. The symptoms you describe are a bit atypical for a fuel pump failure. They often fail when hot versus cold.

When is the last time the engine has had a tune up, consisting of at least spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, and air filter?

-Rod

Shorod thanks for your informative and prompt reply. I don't know when the last tune up was as he bought it used and didn't get any info with the car. I plan to try the fuel filter this afternoon as that is the cheapest option and should probably be done anyway. I'll then check the pressure at the rail. How long should the pressure hold, or what is acceptable as far as drop in readings?

I'm not sure if the service manual has a specification for how quickly the pressure can drop off, but what you don't want to see is that as soon as they key is turned off the pressure drops by 10 psi or so, and you want want to watch the needle continue to drop.

For the hard start condition I definitely suggest you check a couple of spark plugs as well. If they look pretty worn, replace them along with the spark plug wires (use a decent quality, not the cheapest on the shelf - you'd later regret that). Also, if the front plugs look fairly new, don't necessarily assume they all are. The rear three plugs are not too easy to get to and some folks have been known to give up on them and only replace the ones easy to get to.

-Rod

My son just texted me that his car started right away this morning. I haven't touched it yet. Today is quite cool compared to the weather we've been having. I don't know if that matters. He said it usually starts best first thing in the morning and then is harder the rest of the day.

That symptom is more consistent with a fuel pump issue. But, still worth checking the spark plugs and wires.

-Rod

Rod I've been out of town but wanted to update you. I did replace the filter, which turned into an adventure and ended with a rubber hose and two clamps instead of Ford's fitting. There was no change in the hard starts, so I'm hoping to try the spark plugs next. The fuel filter definitely needed changing as it looked like mud coming out of it. I'll update you as soon as I try the next step.
Thanks again!!

Next update- finally got time to replace the spark plugs. The old ones didn't look bad, but changed them all and no difference in the starting dept. Next up is the fuel pump. Just have to find the time and funds. Hopefully next week I'll update you on the result.

You might want to see if the local parts store has a fuel pressure tester in their loan-a-tool program. If your fuel pressure is good and yet the car starts hard, a new fuel pump won't likely solve anything.

Once the car starts does it idle fine, or does it idle roughly?

-Rod

Once the car stumbles to a run, it idles fine and runs fine. It just struggles to start. The pump still sounds like it groans at first before winding up to speed where most cars have an instant high pitched steady whine when the key is turned.

Once the car stumbles to a run, it idles fine and runs fine. It just struggles to start. The pump still sounds like it groans at first before winding up to speed where most cars have an instant high pitched steady whine when the key is turned.

Since the car idles and runs fine, you're probably not looking at a vacuum leak. And your description of the sound the pump makes does suggest the pump may be getting weak. I'd still suggest checking the fuel pressure at the rail to see what it gets to KOEO, how quickly it bleeds down, and what it remains at KOER.

-Rod

Rod I finally got a pressure gauge. Couldn't find a valve on the rail or anywhere, so I put it inline right after the new filter. Upon initial key on, I got 10psi. With bleed down. Then 15 with bleed down. Each key turn gave me more pressure which I'm sure was due to the fact that I had relieved all pressure putting the adapter inline. I started it and it ran at 52psi. I bled it off with the pressure relief tab on the gauge and did key on again and got 42. I started it and it stayed there. I shut it off after a few and it has come down to 35 after 10 min. I did key on again and it went to 52 and that's where it is now as it idles here.

Went in for dinner and came back an hour later and it had bled down to around 15 psi. I turned the key on, it went to 48. I started it and it stayed right at 48.

I don't have a list in front of me currently that shows what the specified pressure should be at KOEO, but bleeding down to 15psi after an hour does not seem bad.

-Rod

Rod are we still thinking pump? What about the fuel pressure regulator? I wish I knew the pressure at the rail after the regulator instead of inline, but I couldn't find a fitting there for the gauge.

The fuel pressure specifications are:

30-55 psi Key On Engine Off
26-45 psi Key On Engine Running.

Your pressure readings are within specifications so I wouldn't be quick to condemn the fuel pump or the pressure regulator.

Have you checked the air filter recently? Does the car start better if you manually hold the throttle open slightly when cranking the engine?

-Rod

Rod, the air filter looks good and holding the throttle didn't help it start easier.

It's probably not starved for air then. The next thing I'll suggest you try is crank the engine to start it a few revolutions, but stop before the engine actually starts. Then pull a couple of spark plugs and inspect them for raw fuel to see if maybe too much fuel is entering the cylinders.

-Rod

ronhud99 here so did u ever solve this problem as i have an 06 that does start when cold then shut down for half an hour then cranks for ten seconds with foot on gas pedal then stars up also runs fine after start

After I sold the car, the new owner texted me to tell me they found a bad injector. They changed it and it started like a champ after that.

hi i have a 06 3.0 ohv and it is doing all of the things above starts up cold fine once warm it needs gas psdal half way down to start after 6 to 8 seconds stinks of gas when it starts also if u do short trips and start it after 10 mins or so it starts ok after 20 mins it seems like flooding out i hope u guys get to bottom of this soon i'm reading ur updates this is driving me crazy good luck ron