Ferrari F150

Hi guys,

It's been a while since I last made a model which was a Nu Project Honda Team rode by Shoya Tomizawa. Here are the photos of the Ferrari F150 model in different angle.

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle1_zpsbd369314.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle1_zpsbd369314.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle2_zps04b164ff.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle2_zps04b164ff.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle3_zps5a58ec33.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle3_zps5a58ec33.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle4_zps177f71e9.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle4_zps177f71e9.jpg.html)

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p10/ace_f91/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle5_zps78f48f30.jpg (http://s124.photobucket.com/user/ace_f91/media/ferrari/Ferrari%20F150/completedmodelangle5_zps78f48f30.jpg.html)

The things that I faced are building the rear wing & the front wing. I'm not sure but I always have the difficulty in making the rear wing as it's not easy to stick the parts. Anyway, I've tried what I could. I think you can notice that the rear wing is a little out of position by the look of it instead of being upright.

Not sure which model I want to make next as I do not have anymore space to put the models. I have some models in my mind to build that are Ferrari F10 & Mclaren MP4/27. But then, I still have time to think about it as I have no rush into thinking about the next project.

Adrian

really nicely done Adrian - did you do a WIP/
John

Nice car, but a shame that the rear wing isn't in the right position.

Thanks guys,

John18d : Sorry to say that I didn't do any WIP on that. Maybe the next project which might be McLaren MP4/27 or Ferrari F10 I'll put WIP though it'll be just out of box type as I still haven't decided what to make yet.

michel1973 : I had difficulty on putting on the rear wing as the parts detaches quite easily & I couldn't put it up right unlike the F2012 that I've made the last time along with the RB6. Hopefully the next F1 car I'm planning to make I can improve on that part. Are there any better methods in making the rear wing? All these while when I make F1 kits, I always face difficulty on that part.

Adrian

Adrian, you've done decent job on this kit. But I think proper alignment of wings is very important for models of Formula 1 cars.
I've come to conclusion that epoxy glue is the way to go when assembling rear wings. It allows time for adjustments and makes
stronger bonds. I practice 2 approaches to assembly of rear wings. If you can hold all the parts in place while glue is drying with
just your two hands and fingers, then I would apply small amounts of glue to vertical and horizontal elements and attachment points
and carefully assemble wing in place. Then I would hold it until glue settles. It's also useful to come up with some kind of support for
wing position for a longer period, while glue dries completely. Some epoxy glues need up to 24 hours to dry fully. Alternative approach
would be to partially assemble top wing elements keeping alignment in check using your modeling mat or caliper. Because epoxy glue
bonds have some flexibility, it's often possible to attache pre-assembled wing to lower attachment points later, slightly puling its end
plates wider apart in process. Hope my explanation makes some sense. In any case each model of Formula 1 car requires a bit of
planing and thinking ahead of time on how rear wing should be assembled and attached.

Also gap at the bottom of the nose and front of the monocoque could be eliminated. I usually figure a way on how to attach it and
fill a gap with putty before painting. Sometimes I even paint internal surfaces with black beforehand. depending on the model, you might
also need to put some components in during this assembly. In any case. model will look a lot better without that gap, even though it
might require more masking for proper painting.

For this model I would actually suggest to carefully brake of rear wing and reassemble it using epoxy glue. As soon as it's assembled
you can touch up ruined spots with black paint. Fortunately lower part of rear wing end plates on this car are all black.

Good luck ! Don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also you might benefit from joining Formula 1 model builders community at f1m.com/forums/
You can search for WIPs for my builds via looking for threads started by user with same "lezdep" nick.

Adrian, you've done decent job on this kit. But I think proper alignment of wings is very important for models of Formula 1 cars.
I've come to conclusion that epoxy glue is the way to go when assembling rear wings. It allows time for adjustments and makes
stronger bonds. I practice 2 approaches to assembly of rear wings. If you can hold all the parts in place while glue is drying with
just your two hands and fingers, then I would apply small amounts of glue to vertical and horizontal elements and attachment points
and carefully assemble wing in place. Then I would hold it until glue settles. It's also useful to come up with some kind of support for
wing position for a longer period, while glue dries completely. Some epoxy glues need up to 24 hours to dry fully. Alternative approach
would be to partially assemble top wing elements keeping alignment in check using your modeling mat or caliper. Because epoxy glue
bonds have some flexibility, it's often possible to attache pre-assembled wing to lower attachment points later, slightly puling its end
plates wider apart in process. Hope my explanation makes some sense. In any case each model of Formula 1 car requires a bit of
planing and thinking ahead of time on how rear wing should be assembled and attached.

Also gap at the bottom of the nose and front of the monocoque could be eliminated. I usually figure a way on how to attach it and
fill a gap with putty before painting. Sometimes I even paint internal surfaces with black beforehand. depending on the model, you might
also need to put some components in during this assembly. In any case. model will look a lot better without that gap, even though it
might require more masking for proper painting.

For this model I would actually suggest to carefully brake of rear wing and reassemble it using epoxy glue. As soon as it's assembled
you can touch up ruined spots with black paint. Fortunately lower part of rear wing end plates on this car are all black.

Good luck ! Don't hesitate to ask any questions. Also you might benefit from joining Formula 1 model builders community at f1m.com/forums/
You can search for WIPs for my builds via looking for threads started by user with same "lezdep" nick.

lezdep : Thanks for the advice, Sergey. I will try those methods.

I saw your work on MP4/27 & F10 in the website & your blog. I was thinking of making either one of them but I couldn't decide what to take. In your opinion, which kit is easier to make? MP4/27 or F10? I thought of wanting to do something different after making lots of Ferraris, thus the idea of making MP4/27 came into my mind.

Do you think TS-83 (metallic silver) would be a good colour scheme for the MP4/27? Which red do you use to make Ferrari F1s? Cause I use TS-49 (bright red) after priming the surface. I did consider using TS-85 (bright mica red) when I tried to make F150, F2007 or F2012. The only gripe I had for F2007 was there was no instruction to saw off the edge of the bolt. Thus, I had difficulty placing the tyres & as a result that I had difficulty putting in the tyres, the marking on the tyres were ruined.

I need some more practice on making the rear wing along with the nose cowl. Even my F2012 also has the opening at the engine cover where the side exhausts are supposed to be covered. You can have a look at my WIP : http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1085791

Adrian

I saw your work on MP4/27 & F10 in the website & your blog. I was thinking of making either one of them but I couldn't decide what to take. In your opinion, which kit is easier to make? MP4/27 or F10? I thought of wanting to do something different after making lots of Ferraris, thus the idea of making MP4/27 came into my mind.

MP4/27 is curbside, so might be a little simpler to build. Otherwise they are quite similar in terms of kit engineering and complexity.


Do you think TS-83 (metallic silver) would be a good colour scheme for the MP4/27? Which red do you use to make Ferrari F1s? Cause I use TS-49 (bright red) after priming the surface. I did consider using TS-85 (bright mica red) when I tried to make F150, F2007 or F2012. The only gripe I had for F2007 was there was no instruction to saw off the edge of the bolt. Thus, I had difficulty placing the tyres & as a result that I had difficulty putting in the tyres, the marking on the tyres were ruined.
Color is tricky for MP4/27. I don't think there is consensus on what that color actually is. I have no experience with TS83, so cannot comment on it. It also depends on how close you what to get
to real car look. For F10 I've used TS8 over white primer, as that was a collective conclusion in forums. TS8 is a bit tricky to apply, as it changes depending on number of coats. If you can get matching
Zero paint, that would be better.


I need some more practice on making the rear wing along with the nose cowl. Even my F2012 also has the opening at the engine cover where the side exhausts are supposed to be covered. You can have a look at my WIP : http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1085791

As a rule of thumb I try to glue as many parts together as possible prior to painting. Unless I absolutely cannot pre-assemble parts because of assembly sequence or painting requirements,
I will try to glue parts together beforehand. That allows me to eliminate unnecessary seams as well. You can see all the steps and explanations in my WIPs. Btw, I have WIPs for F2007
and F248 as well.