89 escourt horn problem
paint master
06-29-2013, 10:13 PM
I am trying to get the horn to work on an 89 escourt without cruise control.The horn and the fuse are both good.Anyone have a solution?
12Ounce
06-30-2013, 01:31 AM
There is also a horn relay underneath the dash.
paint master
06-30-2013, 08:57 AM
Thanks 12 Ounce,I thought only those with speed control had a horn relay.
12Ounce
06-30-2013, 09:08 AM
I would not think they would want that much current flowing through the horn switch and "clock spring" commuter. The diagram book shows a relay for all models ... but its been less than exact many times .... ??
My book is for the '97 model ... it may not apply, but I would think so.
My book is for the '97 model ... it may not apply, but I would think so.
paint master
06-30-2013, 09:23 AM
Thanks again.I'll look for it.:smile:
12Ounce
06-30-2013, 10:11 AM
The more I look on-line, the more I think you may be right. Do you have a Ford dealership nearby that may let you look at their old diagram books?
Intuit
07-01-2013, 05:13 PM
Horn systems are pretty simplistic with only a few systems to test.
It's just a matter of where you choose to start.
The relay is central to every point of that system and so it is possible to test all circuits from that point. The relay will have four (active) pins. Arbitrarily labeling them...
Pin 1 - From Horn Switch
Pin 2 - To Ground
Pin 3 - From Battery 12v
Pin 4 - Out to Horn device
Circuit might be slightly different, but basically you should be able to test the horn switch and horn, all from that relay. Shorting Pin 3 to Pin 4 should manually activate the horn. Assuming Pin 1 doesn't possess 12v, resistance testing from Pin 1 to ground while activating the horn switch should test both the switch and "clock spring". Assuming Pin 2 doesn't have 12v, resistance testing from Pin 2 to ground should verify adequate grounding for the relay. I had a relay that wouldn't activate due to poor grounding on it's coil side of the circuit.
For many vehicles the horn itself is grounded to the frame up front. Being up front either in or near all that rain and wind exposure, that ground point itself can be a point of failure.
Again, those pin #s were totally generic. So you'll have to map your own relay.
It's just a matter of where you choose to start.
The relay is central to every point of that system and so it is possible to test all circuits from that point. The relay will have four (active) pins. Arbitrarily labeling them...
Pin 1 - From Horn Switch
Pin 2 - To Ground
Pin 3 - From Battery 12v
Pin 4 - Out to Horn device
Circuit might be slightly different, but basically you should be able to test the horn switch and horn, all from that relay. Shorting Pin 3 to Pin 4 should manually activate the horn. Assuming Pin 1 doesn't possess 12v, resistance testing from Pin 1 to ground while activating the horn switch should test both the switch and "clock spring". Assuming Pin 2 doesn't have 12v, resistance testing from Pin 2 to ground should verify adequate grounding for the relay. I had a relay that wouldn't activate due to poor grounding on it's coil side of the circuit.
For many vehicles the horn itself is grounded to the frame up front. Being up front either in or near all that rain and wind exposure, that ground point itself can be a point of failure.
Again, those pin #s were totally generic. So you'll have to map your own relay.
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