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1995 Geo Metro 3 cyl starter wiring needed

06-14-2013, 09:27 PM
Changed out a starter on my 95 this week. the solenoid was on back on the starter and three wires were connected two were bolted down. I traced one to the battery and one that started it (clip on end). The other one I did not find. Two of theses was screwed on.

I bought a replacement, all of the connections on the new one are on the starter itself. I connected the wire to start it, and the line from the battery. All has ran good for a while but now it seems not be charging. I have one post on the new starter but now I cannot trace down that third wire (the second one that was bolted down)

Please someone tell me where to find that final wire and if this is what is causing the battery issue. I know it sounds obvious, I just cant find it or know where to trace it. The different connections on the new starter threw me completely!

Thanks as usual!


1995 3 cylinder

06-15-2013, 11:40 AM
My info only shows two wires going to starter. Black is from battery. Black wire with yellow tracer goes hot with key in the crank position. Don't know about the third wire?

As far as the charging system, make sure the battery has a full charge and battery connections all clean and tight on both ends. Use a digital multimeter across battery posts, everything off. The generic spec for a full charge is around 12.6 volts. Then, start the vehicle, take second reading across battery posts. The second reading should be higher than the first if charging system is working.

Maybe a problem with alternator or alternator wiring?

06-15-2013, 03:55 PM
yes, only the 2 wires to starter, make sure the large wire is still conected to rear of alternator and the green wire plug is tight

06-16-2013, 06:13 PM
http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y404/oilyspill/metrostarter_zps9a657ac1.jpg (http://s1273.photobucket.com/user/oilyspill/media/metrostarter_zps9a657ac1.jpg.html)

Don't pay any attention to me, I'm just fooling around. Trying to see if picture will work.

06-16-2013, 06:14 PM
Well, it worked.

06-18-2013, 08:50 PM
What are the connections on the back of the alternator? I am starting to believe it may be a wiring issue. I cannot read diagrams but thanks for the assist.This car needs an engine clean before I can see color wires. For now I will have to just take each one and run back to origin. The cluster of wires in the center, where should I trace them back as well?

Thought- Could starter wires be on reverse and still work? I had Autozone check and they said alternator, starter and battery were all good. The next day battery was dead. I can really use the help!


06-18-2013, 09:32 PM
battery cable is on right or it would not have started the first time. on the back of the alternator there is a green plug with a couple wires molded into it, unless you cut one they should be ok. there will also be a large wire going to a insulated post on the alternator, its larger than the other wires and about 1/3 the size of the large wire going to starter. if you can get battery charged and car started and it still goes dead you may have a drain, take the cable off overmight and see if it will still start in the morning

06-26-2013, 07:16 AM
Tried all listed and got running, found loose, non clean wires at positive post. Ran for about three hours, turned off, and would not turn back over just clicked(battery dead). Makes me think alternator,

Corvette- Green cap on solid, no frayed wires,can you tell me where the other two wires go? I think from above post the small one goes to battery terminal.

You mentioned a larger cable to starter? I do not have a cable to the starter, just the battery Hot, and the "clip wire that goes to the key start. I do have an empty post on the starter but I have had several tell me I do not need but the two wires on this new starter.

It has to be running off of the battery. Alternater is new, shows 12.6 wire coming to battery?,starter is new and battery is new. I just feel like I have one wire from alter. not sending signal to the battery?

I could really use advise. This is now my grandson's transportation around town.Thanks,


06-27-2013, 03:54 PM
Hi-a newby here-own 2 metros a 95 manual 3 cylinder and a 96 automatic 4 cylinder. having recently installed an new auto transmission in my 96 (quite a project-found out after disconnecting that engine must be moved sideways for flywheel to clear bellhousing-crane from harbor freight saved the day) I remember 2 connections to starter-one is positive battery cable which goes right to post on starter and one blade type push on which goes on solenoid -the alternator had 2 connections big green plug and wire which was similar to positive battery cable only a little smaller which was fastened by a bolt to the back of the alternator-is it possible this wire is disconnected on your car?-my 96 runs fine with these 4 wire connections which were made 2 weeks ago-which is why this is fresh in my mind-good luck.

06-27-2013, 03:59 PM
also make sure the larger wire to alternator have battery voltage with car off, if the main fuse is popped it won't charge but alternators also wear out, most local parts stores can check them for you

06-27-2013, 11:53 PM
Alternator has been checked along with starter and battery. Bought all at Autozone. Am I in the right area if I trace all wires from alternator to battery? Are there any wire that go from alternator to starter? Dont see it just asking to eliminate.

06-28-2013, 03:02 AM
the large wire goes from alternator to a large fuse then to battery, other wires run from ignition switch it, none go to starter. check for 12v at the large wire on back of alternator with engine off

07-14-2013, 12:00 AM
I checked the bolt on back of the alternator. I have 12v when off. Could this be an ignition issue? I have taken out and replaced the alternator, starter, and battery at this point as well as the 70 fuse for the battery in case it was going bad?

We just ran it approx. 3 hours at different times using air, lights, etc. and battery is now dead again. I get a click if lucky. Shy of replacing all of the wires between the alternator and battery I am not sure what to do. That is why I was thinking of the ignition.:frown:

Please need help!

07-14-2013, 12:36 AM
try starting the car and unhooking one of the battery cables, see if it keeps running or dies

07-14-2013, 12:37 AM
Hondadad-I have a suggestion for you-why don't you buy a remote starter switch. If the motor cranks when the switch is hooked up then look for a problem in the ignition up to the starter. If the motor won't turn over with the remote switch hooked up look for a problem in the battery/charging system. When you fix the car you will find the remote switch will come in very handy in future jobs such as checking engine compression.

07-14-2013, 03:59 AM
man I am obsessing over this thing just like I do when I work on my own cars-you didn't have the dead battery type issues before you changed out the starter right? What were the symptoms that caused you to buy a new starter? (clicking noise?) After reading your first post I get the impression you may have loosened the nut terminal which has the short wire which goes from the solenoid to the starter and counted that as a third wire-Is this bottom nut on the solenoid with the short wire which goes into the starter tight on your new starter? Also if you can I would get your starter, alternator, and battery tested at a store where you did not purchase them-who don't have an interest in any warranty adjustments-keep us posted...

07-14-2013, 08:00 AM

I have tried the method start it and pull the cables before. The car continues to run! And when I read the cables they are still sending juice over from the alternator as well.?

07-14-2013, 08:05 AM

The remote starter sounds good. Can I disconnect the ignition while using this device? As I have stated, it takes several hours of driving to kill the battery. If I could use this remote to start this and disconnect the ignition that sounds like it would point to the ignition for sure.

Are these available at Autozone or Advanced Auto type stores? Price?

07-14-2013, 08:16 AM

starter was changed after grinding and clicking noise started at the starter and would not start or turn over with a hot battery. Teeth fine in flywheel. I have double checked the connections on the starter where solenoid is connected and it is tight. "slide on" connection is on tight that goes to the ignition. The other connection is on tight as well.

07-14-2013, 08:29 AM
Would replacing the large wire running from the alternator to the batter post be of any help? Eliminate possible break in this line even though it is showing juice flowing?

07-14-2013, 09:38 AM
if you have 12 at alternator ends thats fine. do you have to charge battery to get it to restart or just wait till car cools down? what is voltage at the battery when car is running?

07-14-2013, 03:23 PM
Hi hondadad-first of all I would rate myself as a "Saturday mechanic" I do as much work on my cars as I can but I don't have as much knowledge as other members appear to have-you would not have to disconnect your ignition to use the remote starter switch it has two alligator clips-you put one on the end of the post on the solenoid where the positive cable is (just clip it on-you don't need to loosen nut at all) the other alligator clip goes on the blade connection on the solenoid (you have to pull the wire off-then put the clip on the blade-don' forget to put the wire back when you're done!) if the battery is good the car will start when you squeeze the handle of the remote starter switch-(in effect you are just transferring the ignition from where the key is to your hands) If you don't want the car to start when you squeeze the switch just disconnect the small wire going to the ignition coil and the car will just crank (or maybe the car won't start unless the key is turned on-can't remember) the switch should be available at any auto parts store for about 15 to 20 dollars-hope you fix it soon!

07-14-2013, 03:43 PM
I bought a new starter wire today and installed it. As soon as I connected the battery the motor started to turn over. I must have something incorrectly wired on the relay? I tried to jump the truck off and the jumper cables almost melted within 20 seconds of connected them and would not show any signs of life. I could not get to the switch to try it that time.

Does anyone have the correct wiring diagram for a 1967 F-100 (in "shadetree" English)? 4 post. I must have reversed a wire. This just says short to me. Thoughts.

I never had this issue before until I was setting points and using the relay to set the high point.?

Remote starter- The switch you are describing is the same method I use to get the distributor to a high point so I can set the points. I use a screwdriver.Thanks!

07-14-2013, 04:01 PM
yeah come to think of it that would do the same thing for cheaper-(checked autozone $14.99 for switch)-I don't know to me it sounds like it may be a short to ground in your ignition system which is draining your battery-well I have to go to work-good luck!

07-14-2013, 05:56 PM
I just quick charged the battery enough to where it should have started. I could not even get a click. I did test the pos. point on the left of the relay to where the ignition connects. I can only get a .23 reading from post to post. I also tried from the positive on the battery to the ignition and got the same reading. Should that not have given me a much stronger reading?

I know I have to be getting close. I hope anyway! Still taking suggestions. Thanks for any help!


07-14-2013, 07:33 PM
check your battery voltage when its running and if its dead you can only run it down a couple times before you ruin it. not sure what you are checking for, between +on battery and + on ignition you should have close to 0 volts. might try jumping it

07-14-2013, 09:42 PM
Hi I would also check past posts for clues to your problem, there are hundreds of them. I have sucessfully fixed my cars several times just by reading the information in previous posts which date back to 2005-hope you get it fixed soon

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