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'91 S-10 Runs like crap, no acceleration


robzombie92881
05-27-2013, 02:57 PM
As stated in the title of this thread, I have a 1991 S-10 with 6 cylinders and 4.3 L. that isn't running too good at all. It is 2 wheel drive, and has an automatic trans. It cranks and starts, but dies out unless my foot is on the gas. It seems as if it wants to stay running once I have held the gas pedal down slightly for about ten minutes. When I put it into gear, and step on the gas, it slowly takes off, even if I have the pedal to the floor, and it doesn't go over about 15 m.p.h. Also, all of the gears seem to engage as I cycle from Park all the way through and back to Park again.

I have cleaned the EGR valve out. Put in a new Idle Air Control Valve. Changed the distributor cap and rotor. And my last attempt was changing the Coolant Temp. Sensor. None of these steps have even made the truck run a little better.

I am scheduled to have the truck junked on Saturday, but wanted to check here first. Any suggestions would be wonderful.

With everything I have put into the truck (including purchasing, title, plates, and parts) it has run me about $1,200 and it has seen more time on the back of a tow truck then on the road. The company taking the truck will only give $250. Thanks in advance for any advice that is given.

MT-2500
05-28-2013, 07:14 AM
As stated in the title of this thread, I have a 1991 S-10 with 6 cylinders and 4.3 L. that isn't running too good at all. It is 2 wheel drive, and has an automatic trans. It cranks and starts, but dies out unless my foot is on the gas. It seems as if it wants to stay running once I have held the gas pedal down slightly for about ten minutes. When I put it into gear, and step on the gas, it slowly takes off, even if I have the pedal to the floor, and it doesn't go over about 15 m.p.h. Also, all of the gears seem to engage as I cycle from Park all the way through and back to Park again.

I have cleaned the EGR valve out. Put in a new Idle Air Control Valve. Changed the distributor cap and rotor. And my last attempt was changing the Coolant Temp. Sensor. None of these steps have even made the truck run a little better.

I am scheduled to have the truck junked on Saturday, but wanted to check here first. Any suggestions would be wonderful.

With everything I have put into the truck (including purchasing, title, plates, and parts) it has run me about $1,200 and it has seen more time on the back of a tow truck then on the road. The company taking the truck will only give $250. Thanks in advance for any advice that is given.

Do you want to fix it or junk it?
If you want to fix it do some proper checking out.
Fuel pressure?
Is it losing spark or fuel pressure?
Good hot blue spark?
Chek dist shaft for wear.
Any engine codes?

jamesslcx
05-28-2013, 12:18 PM
Check the fuel pressure first. Check engine light on? Tps Sensor?

jdmccright
05-28-2013, 12:42 PM
I wouldn't write it off yet. I second the fuel pressure check and also check for vacum leaks around the TBI base and the hoses running to the aforementioned valves.

I would invest in a TBI rebuild kit, about $40, to install new o-rings, injector filters, a new fuel pressure regulator diaphragm, base gasket, etc. The diaphragm becomes brittle over time and can't provide the correct pressure.

Next check your engine grounds as well as the ground for your fuel pump.

I had a '92 and loved it...pulled like a horse and fun as hell. For that money I'd buy it off you if you weren't so far away.

robzombie92881
05-28-2013, 12:42 PM
I am hoping to fix it. I have used a spark tester on it. All six plugs are firing a good looking spark. I checked it up to about a quarter of an inch. Unfortunately, I don't have a gauge to check the fuel pressure. But the fuel injectors are constantly giving a seemingly good supply of fuel. I know that even if it seems to be a "good" supply of fuel, that there must be a good constant pressure to it as well.

The check engine light did come one once when the truck first died out on me when I was going about 55 m.p.h. If I recall correctly it was a code 43, which refers to the knock sensor, but it turned itself off, and I haven't been able to get it to throw that code again. The engine light does light up with key on engine off.

jamesslcx
05-28-2013, 04:31 PM
Be worth buying a fuel pressure tester to check it out. Have you ever replaced the catalytic converter?

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