2.2 A/T park switch jump
trox
05-25-2013, 08:04 PM
I have a 2000 2.2 with a bad auto trans that is removed from the truck. I want to sell the truck and show the engine runs good but it won't crank because of the Park/Neutral switch not getting made. I have the 2 connectors at the switch on the side of the the trans and I think it's the 6 pin connector I need to work with. What wires do I ground or jumper to get it to crank and run?
MT-2500
05-26-2013, 09:12 AM
I have a 2000 2.2 with a bad auto trans that is removed from the truck. I want to sell the truck and show the engine runs good but it won't crank because of the Park/Neutral switch not getting made. I have the 2 connectors at the switch on the side of the the trans and I think it's the 6 pin connector I need to work with. What wires do I ground or jumper to get it to crank and run?
I would just jump 12 volts to starter solenoid small wire.
Most of the time I tap into purple starter wire on top of engine.
I would just jump 12 volts to starter solenoid small wire.
Most of the time I tap into purple starter wire on top of engine.
trox
05-26-2013, 10:41 AM
Thanks MT, can I leave the 12 volts hooked up and use the key as normal?
trox
05-26-2013, 03:50 PM
never mind, I thought about it and realized this was just for cranking. It worked good, thanks MT
MT-2500
05-27-2013, 07:29 AM
never mind, I thought about it and realized this was just for cranking. It worked good, thanks MT
You are welcome and thanks for posting back how it went.
You are welcome and thanks for posting back how it went.
trox
05-31-2013, 09:36 AM
I spoke too soon. I started it 3, maybe 4 times. I used a lead from the small starter terminal to the battery positive. Each time I started it, if I didn't catch it on light off and keep it going for a couple seconds, it would die and I would have to re-cycle the key to prime the pump again. Now it won't stay running at all after the initial light off no matter what. It's like if I hold the lead on the battery it would keep going but that's keeping the starter engaged so I can't do that. Could I have blown a fuse? Is it the pump that's not running once it gets going. I ran for several minutes before this for 3 or 4 times.
MT-2500
05-31-2013, 04:20 PM
I spoke too soon. I started it 3, maybe 4 times. I used a lead from the small starter terminal to the battery positive. Each time I started it, if I didn't catch it on light off and keep it going for a couple seconds, it would die and I would have to re-cycle the key to prime the pump again. Now it won't stay running at all after the initial light off no matter what. It's like if I hold the lead on the battery it would keep going but that's keeping the starter engaged so I can't do that. Could I have blown a fuse? Is it the pump that's not running once it gets going. I ran for several minutes before this for 3 or 4 times.
Check all fuses and ign power.
Does it have the key on 2 second fuel pump prime up?
Check all fuses and ign power.
Does it have the key on 2 second fuel pump prime up?
trox
06-05-2013, 08:53 AM
Yes it has the FP prime up and that's about how much of a start I get. A short light-off and depending how much throttle I have input, how high it revs then immediatly quits. I have to turn the key off and back on to get it to light off again, otherwise it just cranks over. So, I have ignition and temporary fuel. What kept the fuel pump running when I first did this? I didn't question it before but now I'm wondering.
MT-2500
06-05-2013, 11:28 AM
Yes it has the FP prime up and that's about how much of a start I get. A short light-off and depending how much throttle I have input, how high it revs then immediatly quits. I have to turn the key off and back on to get it to light off again, otherwise it just cranks over. So, I have ignition and temporary fuel. What kept the fuel pump running when I first did this? I didn't question it before but now I'm wondering.
Check fuel pump fuse and relay.
Check fuel pump fuse and relay.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
