What to do, 95LX low compression, runs poor

95LX 1.9L 195,000 miles. About a year ago I started having idle problems. When I came to a stop it would idle OK for ~30 seconds, then idle very rough or stall. If I re-started the engine it would idle OK again for ~30 sec. I replaced IAC, swapped oxygen sensors, plugs, cleaned MAF, nothing seemed to help. Over the course of a year it has steadily gotten worse to where once the engine is warm anytime I don't have my foot on the gas it is running poorly. Seems to be getting worse with the warming weather also.
Checked the compression, 4 to 1, it was 180, 180, 150, 80. Shot some oil in #1 & it came up to about 130. I'm thinking the compression problem sounds like the rings. But does the idle problem sound like some other problem or could engine mechanical problems throw sensors out of wack enough to cause that 30 sec delayed problem?.... About the engine, I've never done any engine rebuild work. I don't want to fix one thing only to find that I'm in the spiral of death... one thing after another. Thoughts or suggestions? Thank you.

At that mileage be prepared for anything. Check the price of a bone yard or rebuilt engine. I'd have to evaluate the rest of the car before I sunk that kind of time and money into it.

Thanks, that's the way I'm thinking. I really haven't done anything major to this car, it has been a very cheap 200k. Have some body rust problems starting also.

If you want to keep it a little longer ... you might consider removing the head for an inspection. Unless the cyl walls are deeply scored or worn, a cyl head rebuild by a respectable cyl head shop should be most that you need. I would suspect the block is gonna be OK ... and that you just have worn/burned valves and seals. I don't put much faith in "oiled" compression tests ... the oil ends up everywhere, including valve seats, giving meaningless info.

cyl head repair $250
gasket set, including headbolts $150
varous belts, tensioners, etc ....$150

$600 should do it, with your free labor .... and you've got 75K - 100K miles, or more, most likely. (Be sure to use torque wrench where required)

Interesting. Are you basing that on the history of the 1.9 engine? That it will typically need a valve job at this mileage, but the block/cylinders typically go much longer? I've had the car since 40k, so don't know how the original owner took care of it, but I've always changed oil/filter every 5k, mostly highway miles.
If I removed the head, how would I accurately identify the problem before having the work done?
I did forget one other issue, the car is leaking oil, steadily getting worse. I haven't been able to pinpoint where it is coming from. Oh & the airbag light is flashing the driver airbag code which I think is the clockspring needs to be replaced.
Thanks!

Rings? I dont know. If its the head, I got a solution ( or a longerterm quick fix). I did this on my car, and guess what, it works. (Edited post for faster Posting time: Do a search for my honest mechanic, KN Block sealer on google. Website should be my honest mechanic. You will see people there who have tried it with good results.)

How I knew my car had a head problem, was it smelled of burning coolant, had white smoke come out the back, and my plugs had inconsitent build up on them. Some plugs were "dirtier" than others. The build up on the plugs was whitish pink( since I ran DeathCool at the time aka DexCool). The buildup was the last bit of the puzzle that I knew it was the head gasket. It also was giving me pressure readings much like yours. Except I had 4 good/ consistent, and 1 mid, and 1 low. Good luck.

I used the KN in the orange can with the pop top. Cost 8 bux. Took out my TStat and flushed system with garden hose shoving it up into the supply tube that connects to the lower radiator port, besure to plug up the supply hose around the garden hose so the water actually goes into the engine, it will circulate and come spewing out the supply port of the radiator. Then put some distilled water in, and dumped it, x2. Put block sealer in with distilled water, ran for 700 miles, dumped it. and it hasent burned coolant in over 7000 miles. Its a quick and semi permanent fix.

Ive done it both ways. Ive pulled heads off and had them machined etc etc etc. Took several days. This took less than an hour. (Oh yeah, And cost hundreds less.)

Just be sure to replace belts and what not. I would replace waterpump after this since your probably have 200k on the original.

I should have mentioned the spark plugs all looked pretty much the same, pale white color which has been normal for this car, no significant buildup of any kind on them. I'm not using any significant amount of coolant. It doesn't seem to be using an excessive amount of oil either. Like I mentioned it does have an oil leak which accounts for some of it.

Yes, I have rebuilt a few Escort engines. If the cyl walls do not have score lines, or vertical cuts, in the walls ... all is likely to be well in the crankcase ... but a thorough cleaning is always in order.

Since you mentioned oil loss ... and if you have time, I would remove the engine and take it to a work bench. This way you can really do a better job, cleaning everything and replacing all gaskets and seals. You will be probably be able to reuse the rings, but keep them oriented and placed in original grooves ... but decarb the piston tops and gouge out the ring-grooves leaving them free of all carbon built-up.

Once the head and manifolds are removed, the engine gets pretty light ....easy for two folks to lift right out.

Be sure to use a Haynes or the like .... for more info.

Thanks for the info 12ounce. I'll have to think about it. I've always wanted to take on this sort of project but unfortunately not sure I have the space to tie up. What you said about taking the engine out on a bench makes sense, no sense taking care of the head unless I fix the oil leak problem also. Thanks again for your insight & suggestions.

I'd identify that oil leak before I tore it apart or pulled it out of the chassis. Replacing front and rear crank seals would be in order.
As far as compression tests go a high spike on the first stroke of a wet test usually indicates valve sealing,guides,seals,etc worn. But do a dry test first.

You asked a question I failed to answer: I would estimate, based on the engine overhauls I have done, that in an engine that gets good maintenance:
... the lower crankcase outlasts the heads/valves by a factor of 3-to-1, or more. If I do an "entire overhaul" ... I am apt to use the short block as...no maching, reuse the pistons...after cleaning, reuse crank and rod bearings if there are no wear issues visible. But the valves, seals and seats always require attention.

The valves get the worse end of the combustion cycle. The guides and stems get very little lubrication. The valve heads are stuck directly in the "fire". Both require good contact with the seats to stay somewhat cool. The exhaust valve head is smaller in dia and sturdier ... but the inlet valve gets a little wetness from the fuel borne in the airstream. But with direct injection, the inlet valve doesn't get even this little break.

The pistons and rings, on the other hand, stay in contact with the cyl walls ... good heat transfer and lubrication.