TCC solenoid?

I have a 95 caprice classic 4.3L V8. Car has 156,00 miles and runs great beside this one problem. When the car is warm and is shifted from drive into reverse it sometimes stalls but always chokes and almost dies. When cold it does not do this. Also when warm and shifted from park into drive it does the same thing. Also when warm and idling at a red light, the idle drops and the voltmeter on the dash shakes until the car starts moving. If in neutral or park the idle is fine. Someone told me to change the TCC solenoid. Anyone have any ideas or have had the same problem?

Converter lockup could be causing that. So could other things.

The next time this occurs, slip the trans into neutral. Once idle recovers, drop it back into D. Is the engagement harsh?

I just tried what u suggested and when put back in D from neutral it did the same thing. Idle dropped and voltmeter was shaking on dash. Same thing from neutral to reverse as well. It did not seem to drop as much as usual though. Usually when warm and shifted from drive to reverse voltmeter will drop past dead center and sometimes quickly recover back to normal and sometimes car will stall.

Anyone have any ideas as to what may cause this?

Anyone have any ideas as to what may cause this?

you ever clean the IAC . this if dirty and the passageways where its mounted in the throttle body will cause idle issues . the other item that should be checked replaced is the PCV and the hoses for it.

only use throttle body cleaner when cleaning . do not try to move the IAC valve or you will break it. the motor operates this valve to keep idle correct.

Iac and Pcv valve are both new. I did not replace any hose for the Pcv valve. Car idle in neutral and park is fine but when in drive or reverse with engine warm and at a complete stop the idle drops and voltmeter shakes. I can try replacing the iac again as it is still under warrantee.

Iac and Pcv valve are both new. I did not replace any hose for the Pcv valve. Car idle in neutral and park is fine but when in drive or reverse with engine warm and at a complete stop the idle drops and voltmeter shakes. I can try replacing the iac again as it is still under warrantee.

the pcv hoses must be with no leaks. any leaks will create idle issues. throttle body needs cleaning . did you clean throttle body when you replaced the IAC ?

another idle test is with the vehicle in gear foot on brake firmly move steering wheel left then right every 2 seconds. what is the idle doing ?
the idle should be 650 rpm in drive or neutral/park.

I did clean the throttle body when I replaced the iac. When foot on break and car in drive if I move the steering wheel left then right every 2 seconds idle stays where it is. Have not checked Pcv hoses so I will have to do that.

I did clean the throttle body when I replaced the iac. When foot on break and car in drive if I move the steering wheel left then right every 2 seconds idle stays where it is. Have not checked Pcv hoses so I will have to do that.

if the idle IS ? 650 RPM and the moving of the steering wheel does not cause any idle variation then it could be a transmission problem. could be the TCC valve is sticking.

what transmission fluid are you using ? also what brand ? how often / miles since last fluid change ?

just to be sure another thing to check is the battery wire to the underhood fuse box on the passenger side . remove the cover over the wire connection at this fuse box and make sure that the wire/lug is not melted or burned.

Tranny itself has 60,000 miles on it. Tranny fluid has under 20,000 miles on it. It is synthetic dexron 3. Not sure what brand. The battery wire by the fuse box looks fine. Not melted or rusted at all. How hard is it to change the TCC solenoid if that is in fact my issue? Will that problem come up if I get the computer scanned? The TCC solenoid itself is only 35 bucks.

Tranny itself has 60,000 miles on it. Tranny fluid has under 20,000 miles on it. It is synthetic dexron 3. Not sure what brand. The battery wire by the fuse box looks fine. Not melted or rusted at all. How hard is it to change the TCC solenoid if that is in fact my issue? Will that problem come up if I get the computer scanned? The TCC solenoid itself is only 35 bucks.

since it is not the original transmission now it could be anything with that circuit.control. I would have a recommended transmission shop with the correct drive train diagnostic equipment to see if indeed it is the TCC circuit.

synthetic dexron III is a very good product . I used this mobil synthetic dexron III in my 96 impala since 1998. If you had dexron III non synthetic and those miles of 160,000 I would expect internal wear/damage.

post back with what the diagnostics found.

So I got a diagnosis and I need a new torque converter. The solenoids were working properly but the torque converter itself was staying locked up. Anyone know a good place online to get a towing torque converter? I'm going to order one and have my mechanic put it in.

So I got a diagnosis and I need a new torque converter. The solenoids were working properly but the torque converter itself was staying locked up. Anyone know a good place online to get a towing torque converter? I'm going to order one and have my mechanic put it in.

start a new post requesting that info. any reason how the torque converter go damaged. usually particles .