Maserati 3500GT -- Monogram 1/25

... a "golden oldie", which I believe started life with Aurora, back in 1964.

Job #1 is to fix a significant shape issue with the kit, which changes the look significantly. The top line of the windscreen is too high. I think there's maybe one car where the roofline is like that on the kit, but most of the photos I've found show a much lower line, continuing the gutters above the doors horizontally, parallel to the ground. The kit has a "wide-eyed" look, because the windscreen top heads upward over the roof at 45 degrees to the level.

It's taken me a while to figure out how to do this!

What I decided to do is cut the top section off the windscreen and glue it to the body, and then make a new windscreen.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-W7fzf3K/0/XL/roofline-before-2-XL.jpg

Here's the top part of the clear part stuck in place, and filled.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-5rhx9wS/0/XL/roofline-after-2-XL.jpg

...and here it is sanded. You can see where the original roofline goes. The clear piece is backed up with Milliput just in case the sanding makes it a bit thin!

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-TRDsjpz/0/XL/roof-with-rim-2-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-9PHwHx4/0/XL/roof-with-rim-XL.jpg

It also needs a "trim" to continue the chrome above the doors. This is just a thin strip of plastic card, applied slowly, a bit at a time, with liquid cement.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-CKcC7Xq/0/XL/roof-done-XL.jpg

...and here it is with a bit of primer to see where the imperfections are...

Of course... this means we need a new windscreen. Apologies if this is familiar, but people often ask me what "plunge moulding is", so here we are.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-M8kcNnR/0/XL/plunge-mould-1-XL.jpg

The original windscreen is backed with Milliput (it cracked as I was cutting it ;-()

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-4FQSJZq/0/XL/plunge-mould-2-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-XpLv5Nc/0/XL/plunge-mould-3-XL.jpg

I cut a hole in a piece of hardboard from a chocolate box to make the outer "mould". The plastic is packaging from some Sennheiser headphones. Basically, any of those "clamshell" packs that you have to cut your way into, and avoid being cut by the packaging afterwards, make good material for this kind of thing...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-TSH2qqv/0/XL/windscreens-XL.jpg

... I made quite a few. This is to allow for my incompetence while I try to trim and fit them...

This one looks like it might be a long haul, but it'll be a rarity on the shelf!

bestest,
M

Super subject Matt.
You are on a roll!!!!!!!!!!!
Not only do you keep hammering them out, but you're attacking them with quality work like Bob Downie or Dave Thibodeau. Top notch!!!!

Cant wait to see how you progress with this one.
Keep up the super work!!!!
Andy

I used to eye up these kits as there aren't many Maserati ones about but then I got hold of their Aston Martin DB4 kit and well, decided against both of them after all.

I know I have a tendency to battle against old kits but something about these two put even me off.
In any case, it's good to see someone tackling them with some sort of determination.

One final thing, make sure that the putty and milliput you have around the clear plastic is properly fully cured before continuing. I have a few instances where I could've sworn the putty was cured but it still shrank and showed itself.

Thanks, guys. The last major cosmetic change is to reshape the grille.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-rDZQvqJ/0/XL/reshaped-grille-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-t4Zg3TH/0/XL/reshaped-grille-2-XL.jpg

The kit grille is pretty much oval, whereas you can see that the real thing is more like a round-cornered rectangle. The "snout" also sticks out further than the kit's effort. I started by filing out the corners and reshaping the hole in the kit, and then adding a band of plastic card around the inside of the reshaped hole.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-jBsg7X4/0/XL/grille-with-milliput-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-3BQvJ9N/0/XL/grille-with-milliput-2-XL.jpg

I sanded the plastic strip to an even 1.5mm or so outside the hole in the body, and then I built up the surround with Milliput (two-part epoxy putty). When it's set good and hard, there'll be a fair bit of sanding and shaping to do... I'm aiming to sand it back until the plastic core is just showing through, and blend the snout smoothly in, in a slightly squarer shape than the original curve.

Of course, it means building a new grille, because the kit part no longer fits, but I'll take the emblem from the original and use mesh for the grille itself.

Wish me luck!

bestest,
M.

Happy to see this vintage kit, in a wip here.
Also, a very useful vac tutorial.
A question... You only press the miliput master to the clear plastic sheet or you heat the clear sheet first?
Thank you for sharing this!

Thanks, George... sorry, I should have said. I heated the plastic very carefully under the gas grille on my oven. Hold it a 10-15 cm below the grille, and you can see it warp slightly and then sag into the hole. Then it's ready. Push the master through firmly but not too quickly, and you'll feel it suddenly "give" and stretch. Practice and experiment with what works for your plastic -- too little heat and it won't stretch far enough to mould to the master; too much and it'll spoil the plastic and ultimately catch fire! I threw away three failed ones before I got on a roll with these...

bestest,
M.

Phew... I'm really glad to get THIS done:

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-XX8gCbr/0/XL/nose1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-LVb7dSr/0/XL/nose2-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-n8fLT74/0/XL/nose3-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-K7JfHFZ/0/XL/nose4-XL.jpg

Obviously, now I "just" need to sort out the badge, grille itself and the chrome effect. Easy! http://staticaf.com/vbulletin/images/smilies/screwy.gif

One thing I have noticed is that it looks from the instructions like it will be impossible to get the chassis in with the rear underbody in place. Can anyone who has built the kit confirm that is really so?

If it is the case, my inclination is to tack the part in position, prime, paint and clearcoat as normal, then remove it by cutting through the Clear with a VERY sharp knife. Hopefully, then I can put the chassis in and fit the part back in place, and once it's set just polish over the join if needed. It won't _quite_ disappear, but most of it's behind the rear bumper. I do NOT want to be filling sanding and repainting and revarnishing a seam right at the end of the build!

Anyone got any better suggestions?

bestest,
M.

A fair bit of work here to open the bonnet vent, without a very "in your face" result, but I think it'll make a subtle difference:

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-k6hMFsW/0/XL/bonnet-vent-XL.jpg

I scribed a line along the front face of the "scoop" with a P-Cutter, used flat -- ie parallel with the bonnet. Once that was reasonably deep, I scraped away under the bonnet, and alternated both until I had a narrow slot cut through. Then I used a "Flexi-File" - thin strips of abrasive on a plastic backing held in a U-shaped handle. I threaded the strip through the slot before attaching it to the handle, and then used it to widen the slot at both sides. I also used a fresh #11 blade to carve away a bit on the inside of the scoop as well, to get the sort of "W" cross section. Finally I sanded the upper corners of the scoop a bit, which are too square on the kit...

...best part of an hour to make a small hole. Who'd'a thunk it? ;-P

bestest,
M.

Excellent work on the body!

Excellent craftsmanship going on here!

Thanks, chaps! I decided to take a bit of a break from the bodywork, and progress elsewhere for a bit.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-DmhZQb2/0/XL/dechromed-XL.jpg

Here are lots of parts that used to be chromed. Five minutes in some carefully handled caustic soda solution, and they're clean. You can see the varnish is still there, but glue does work... There are some sink marks in the bumpers which prompted stripping them, and obviously the chromed engine parts are just daft.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-54cBpwk/0/XL/engine1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-RjnTJg4/0/XL/engine2-XL.jpg

I'm actually pleasantly surprised by the level of detail supplied for the engine -- separate alternator, starter motor and distributor, belts etc. As you can see from the engine pic at the bottom left, this is clearly a car with the fuel injection engine rather than carbs.

The decals are in a parlous state. I can see that several cracks across the number plates. I've painted the logos and instruments with liquid decal film to try and save them, but I've also made a scan just in case I need to make my own. Anyone know of an aftermarket silver-ink decal sheet of Maserati logos...? ;-P

bestest,
M.

Man o man wat an amazing WIP. Really enjoy seeing your work man!

Thanks, Tom!

It's been a while since the last update -- travelling away from the bench...

Anyway... I finished s few details, and have got to the stage when I can try a first coat of primer to see how it looks (and what needs fixing...)

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-HjX9KXT/0/XL/body-in-primer-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-t2qFLNB/0/XL/body-in-primer-3-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-JQ83PLC/0/XL/body-in-primer-5-XL.jpg

There's obviously some filling, sanding and repriming to do here and there, but overall, I'm pretty happy. As you can see, I've fitted the rear valance. I figured out that you can get the interior in and then fit the chassis in at the front and finally join the two, which means that you don't need to put the whole thing in as a unit and fit the valance last. I think I can get a much better finish on the back end by doing it this way, with the valance seamlessly blended before painting. Not quite seamless yet, obviously, but getting there.

The other main details are proper "scoops" over the engine bay vents, the windscreen trim, and fixing some odd damage at the rear lights.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-RxP2TBd/0/XL/vent-in-primer-XL.jpg

Not the best picture, but you get the idea. I added a thin strip of plastic card to the moulded ridge, and then built up and blended it using superglue + micro balloons, because I thought it would be structurally tougher than plastic putty, but still easy to sand and shape. It'll need a smear of regular putty to deal with a few imperfections, but you can see that there's now a decent, and thin, lip for the grille to hide behind.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-8DV6cG4/0/XL/windcsreen-trim-in-primer-XL.jpg

Skip Jordan pointed out to me that there's actually a gap between the windscreen and door chrome trim on the A-pillar, so I scribed and sanded one to give me something to work on with the BMF. I think that minimising the "weight" of the chrome on the kit will be key to achieving the elegant look of the real thing, especially on the door windows.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-3cx7NqV/0/XL/rear-lights-in-primer-XL.jpg

And finally, an odd one. On my kit, the outside lower edge of the rear light "oval" was misshaped on both sides -- almost as though it was "torn" outward. It's near the worst mould seam on the kit, between the light clusters and the boot opening, so I suspect it's something to do with the way the mould opens to eject the body... Anyway, once again out with the microballoons and superglue. Still not perfect, but much improved.

Next task is to hit those areas that these photos have highlighted as needing some more attention with the plastic putty, as well as a few more I haven't shown you (mostly front end seams...).

I'm hopeful that she'll be shiny and red by the end of the weekend...

bestest,
M.

OK... not shiny and red.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-cwM4zDG/0/XL/body-panel-test-fit-XL.jpg

I decided it was definitely better to get everything fitting properly BEFORE I painted it! The bonnet and boot have some issues -- the boot at the sides, and the bonnet at the windscreen end. And there's some serious gappage around the doors at the "shoulder".

I also decided that the rear lights as provided in the kit are pretty irredeemable. There's an entirely different style with a one-piece coloured plastic light unit which has a chrome "hood". It seems quite common, so I'll go for that instead -- I made a similar set-up for the DB4GT, so I know that it can be done, and how...

Time to break out the plastic card.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-HLpWmnX/0/XL/boot-n-bonnet-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-8vdkFwn/0/XL/doors-bulked-up-XL.jpg

I think for problems like this, plastic card and liquid cement is the best answer -- any kind of filler will just fall off, and the styrene is exactly as hard as the plastic of the kit part for easier sanding.

Some time later...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-H3PX8B6/0/XL/panels-XL.jpg

I fixed the hinge parts to be a little more realistic (not perfect scale, but not a toy, either).

In case you were wondering about the colour, here it is in sunlight:

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-9LqCrZM/0/XL/red-XL.jpg

There 's a fine, light, metal flake in there, which isn't so obvious behind the dust and reflections in this pic, mind...

And finally, here's where I am this evening:

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-GrjVnXJ/0/XL/workbench-12-mar-XL.jpg

I have test fitted the doors, boot etc before committing to primer. There are a couple of bit son the boot and one door that will need cleaning up, filling, and re-priming, but I think that'll be about it.

bestest,
M.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-Srk9qkr/0/XL/redbits-XL.jpg

Rosso Brunello Micalizzato going on. Nice colour, eh?

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-wkbpQG3/0/XL/body-in-red-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-qCXHpgf/0/XL/body-in-red-2-XL.jpg

You can just about see the "mica" in it... definitely slightly pearlescent in the flesh. Time for the 2K clear now...

bestest,
M.

Amazing wip mate!

The job is outstanding!

Keep Up!

Thanks!
... and here we go with the shiny:

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-J4S7jKq/0/XL/shiny-XL.jpg

There are a couple of areas on the body that'll need a bit of a polish, but that can wait a few days until this stuff has set thoroughly hard. You can see the brownish tint to the red here, though.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-11/i-dXjfP9w/0/XL/grille-XL.jpg

Rectangular grille etch arrived today (along with a Nardi steering wheel) As you can see, the basic mesh turns out to be far too big. However, gluing two pieces together with an offset doesn't look too bad. I'll keep an eye open for something better, but if I can't find it, I think this looks OK...

bestest,
M.

Here's something I have NOT been looking forward to...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-NnSh6XF/0/XL/engine-wiring-with-reference-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-2ZtBGgh/0/XL/engine-bits-XL.jpg

This Maserati is a GTi, it appears, with fuel injection. And two plugs per cylinder. And a duct for the wiring. So, armed with some more excellent reference material courtesy of Skip Jordan, we begin.

No way can I drill a distributor cap for 12 wires, so I used a piece of electric flex with the insulation cut back to leave twelve wires (with some superglue at the bottom to hold them in). These are glued into the widened end of some aluminium tube, which I then drilled for the individual plug wires. Those wires are fixed into holes drilled into the the plug locations in the cylinder head. Then I drilled the fuel injection system for some more shiny wires for the injector tubes.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-mKddRRx/0/XL/wired-2-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-mQs5z9F/0/XL/wired-1-XL.jpg

The end result after some cursing. There's a whole lot of touch-up and detail painting to do, but this is as good as I can manage (no tiny hose clamps for this cack-handed modeller!). And yes, those injection tubes really are a mare's nest like that on the real thing... I wonder if it's something to do with having the same length for each tube, despite some cylinders being much closer to the unit than others.

bestest,
M.

Awesome. I've never seen this level of detail and accuracy applied to this kit before. All of these parts are MUCH smaller than the photos would indicate. The engine block and valve covers, for example, are exactly 1" long.

...finally made it through the snow out to the workbench...

Something else I haven't been looking forward to:
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-9kHMBRF/0/XL/grille1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-69KpQFX/0/XL/grille2-XL.jpg

Not the greatest pictures (the lighting seemed to confuse the camera), but you can see the effect. I've removed the trident from the original one-piece kit grille, which of course doesn't fit the reshaped nose. A combination of Humbrol polished chrome spray and BMF does the rest.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-MSD3DBT/0/XL/engine-painted-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-h43jb3m/0/XL/engine-painted-2-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-8G2HtTQ/0/XL/engine-painted-3-XL.jpg

The engine with that detail painting and the last bits attached. Citadel metallics blended in various proportions for those details...

I think, looking out the window, that progress will be slow the next few days...

bestest,
M.

More stunning at every stage.

A small update... the snow has melted, so I can get back to the bench:

The seats are way too skinny, so I have bulked them out with plastic card:

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-4sfB7dH/0/XL/seats-unpainted-XL.jpg

The next stage of detailing is the interesting hinges, which allow the back of the seats to fold forward and twist inwards at the same time. Mine won't do that, but it accounts for the complicated "Flash Gordon" shape...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-Cp6hGLJ/0/XL/dash-started-XL.jpg

I've been worrying about the state of the decals. You can see the cracks across the number plates. I painted this with Microscale decal solution a couple of weeks ago, and I've used Klear to snug it down. It looks OK though, and this is the most critical of all of the decals... the others are replaceable or paintable relatively easily...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-pS5bcC3/0/XL/colis-XL.jpg

These are about 1cm (0.4") long. These coils are quite visible on the firewall. Teeny-tiny, but took over an hour to make between them! I hope it's worth it!

There's some "bigger picture" stuff going on off-stage, but as my old editor used to say, "only fules and bairns should see a job half done..."

bestest,
M.

Thos seats look way better!

And remember all the little dtails make it look better!
Keep it up

Thanks, Tom...

More progress today (it's being on holiday!)

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-5z7tcCZ/0/XL/door-liners-XL.jpg

Door liners, with body colour at the top.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-R4jZqp4/0/XL/cabin-colours-2-XL.jpg

Tan/beige upholstery, done using Vallejo Dark Sand for the seats and a Citadel "Stone" for the carpets.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-dMgKSvB/0/XL/dash-XL.jpg

Dash, awaiting the "grab handle" across the glovebox.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-Xj52h6H/0/XL/coils-fitted-XL.jpg

Coils in place in the engine bay, which was assembled using the chassis as a jig.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-vgdg5RG/0/XL/engine-bay-mockup-XL.jpg

And the engine bay mocked up, to see how it all fits. I need to build the front suspension before fixing it together properly.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-FrFBQxH/0/XL/benchtop-1-Apr-XL.jpg

...and this is how the bench is looking tonight. Suspension and those seat hinges next, I reckon...

bestest,
M.

really a great model Matt. congratulations. I love it.

Beautiful work! I can't wait for more updates.

Thanks, guys! It's been a rather busy "holiday" so far, but I finally got back to the bench today. First step, those hinges...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-K8vfX82/0/XL/naked-hinges-XL.jpg

They're a very distinctive shape, and pretty complex, because the seat backs tilt both forwards AND inwards to give access to the rear seat bench. Plastic card and rod, and some cursing...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-qKPWKMx/0/XL/interior-done-5-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-WtN4whx/0/XL/interior-done-2-XL.jpg

The seats are mounted canted up on higher, tapering rails. After a bit of washing with Citadel Gryffonne Sepia and a drybrush with beige, the leather interior is complete. The handbrake is in the wrong place, so I've shortened it and moved it forward. I also carved the cone-shaped gear-lever "glove" into something more soft-leather shaped and brushed it with liquid cement to smooth it a bit.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-vxkWk2r/0/XL/interior-test-XL.jpg

And here's a test fit to see how it looks with the dash. The lighting ain't great, but I think it DOES resemble the real thing... You can see that there will be some fudging, because the firewall will leave the side vents half in the cabin...

bestest,
M.

Spot the difference...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-gjGjgRb/0/XL/with-hinge-bits-XL.jpg

Now with the missing hinge lower part. I also refitted the "parcel shelf" at a lower angle, so that it doesn't end up half way up the back window. You need trim the mounting pillars to achieve this...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-hKxcMpt/0/XL/boot-liner-XL.jpg

Some interesting super tough PVC tape is doing duty as the textured vinyl boot liner -- an optional extra, apparently.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-pZ6WpJq/0/XL/test-fit-interior-XL.jpg

...and this is how it all looks together. I fitted the side vents as well (with a little careful trimming so that they slot under the new fairings at the front), because they'll soon need painting on the inside, split between carpet (stone) in the cabin, and matt black in front of the firewall. I suspect the vents are in the right place on the side of the car, but because of the overdone cut out at the base of the windscreen, the firewall is too far forward.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-HPJCx3v/0/XL/window-XL.jpg

I'm trying to reduce the visual impact of the "chrome" window frame, because the engraved areas are a bit heavy. This is a bit more high-contrast than it looks in real life. I've used a panel line chalk wash in dark grey (intended for "grey jet" modern aircraft" which delineates the engraving and represents the rubber seals.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-LwJnmnN/0/XL/wheels-XL.jpg

The wheels in the kit aren't great, and the tyres are in a real state. Goodness knows what they are made of, but as you can see (on the right) they are shot -- and that's before you try to glue in the fake hard plastic "white walls". I wonder if they were regular styrene in the original release... it would make more sense! The replacements (left) are from an Aoshima MGB. Any ideas on how to take the lettering off without messing up the tyre much appreciated -- a sharp knife doesn't work... I found that out already. If not, I'll just live with it and hope no one looks close enough to read the size... Although the MGB tyres are beefier, and the wheels very slightly larger, the overall diameter of the wheel and tyre combo is very slightly smaller than the originals, so they should fit OK, albeit rather snugly under the wheel arches. It'll probably look sporty, though...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-3Mcp5Lb/0/XL/bench-09-Apr-XL.jpg

...and finally, tonight's bench shot. The doors can be assembled when I've finished the other window, and I've also stripped, filled, sanded and repainted the sink-mark-ridden bumpers.

bestest,
M.

Beautiful work, Matt!

I wonder if there are any PE wheels available that could fit this car. The Aoshima wheels look pretty good, but still not as good as PE.

The Reinassance wheel/tire set is a perfect fit for this one...I used it on my Aston Martin DB4 build...


Beautiful work, Matt!

I wonder if there are any PE wheels available that could fit this car. The Aoshima wheels look pretty good, but still not as good as PE.

I don't disagree about the Renaissance wheels being a great option, but they are about £50 without tyres, about 4 times what I paid for the kit... which hurts. I'm looking at some K&R etched wires which are only £10 including tyres. We'll see how they turn out...

bestest,
M.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-vDGGXGC/0/XL/wheels2-XL.jpg

These are the K&R etched wheels (left). I'm still not SURE they are better than the Aoshima injected alternative (R), but they do have a wire axle the same size as the Aoshimas, so if I adapt the chassis axle parts to fit, the two options are interchangeable until quite late in the build...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-3MscVBM/0/XL/dash-done-XL.jpg

The dash completed, with a Renaissance Nardi steering wheel, horn boss printed with Skip Jordan's excellent reference images...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-bkh2Rrq/0/XL/with-doors-1-XL.jpg

The doors will fit nicely. Currently, I'm battling with the replacement windscreen, which needs to have a template cut before I can start with the BMF on the body...

bestest,
M.

Various bits and pieces today, but not much to photograph. These are the new tail-lights...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-JmTxSkK/0/XL/tail-lights-started-XL.jpg

I'm shaping them from a piece of perspex that used to be a recipe-book holder! It sands really nicely, and shapes easily.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-dMnNsgR/0/XL/two-light-blanks-XL.jpg

The two lozenges, waiting for paint and metal details...

bestest,
M.

Nice build Matt!

small observation, the drivers side window frame looks pulled out slightly at the top edge

Good work!

Various bits and pieces today, but not much to photograph. These are the new tail-lights...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-JmTxSkK/0/XL/tail-lights-started-XL.jpg

I'm shaping them from a piece of perspex that used to be a recipe-book holder! It sands really nicely, and shapes easily.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-dMnNsgR/0/XL/two-light-blanks-XL.jpg

The two lozenges, waiting for paint and metal details...

bestest,
M.

Just to bring this observation over from MCM, those are the wrong taillights -- they're the older 3500GT, not the GTi. Kit lights are correct, as seen in the GTi below:

http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz191/sjordan47/taillightcopy_zps8454e931.jpg (http://s827.photobucket.com/user/sjordan47/media/taillightcopy_zps8454e931.jpg.html)

Ah. Oh.

Darn it!

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-pgbcQV7/0/XL/wrong-lights-XL.jpg

...anyone want to buy a pair of slightly used Maserati 3500 GT tail lights?

Off they come...

;-(

bestest,
M

Well, if yesterday felt a bit "one step forward, two steps back", today feels more like real progress.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-WHLRMps/0/XL/chassis-mockup-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-NKxwJJg/0/XL/chassis-mockup-3-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-C6J9hQC/0/XL/chassis-mockup-2-XL.jpg

I've finally got the front end of the car built. The main chassis and the cabin are just mocked-up here to check the fit of the firewall, which is attached to the chassis. The most useful lesson of doing this was that I wont be able to join the two sections inside the car with the pedals in place (you'll remember ;-P, I need to do that so I can fit them into with the rear valance in place, as I built it earlier for better painting of the main body). So the pedals will have to be added from outside after the chassis is in place, but that's not a big chore.

I'm not trying the whole chassis inside the body until it's all well and truly set, but I couldn't resist trying the engine bay out...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-CbbCCXw/0/XL/engine-in-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-t9dn4bB/0/XL/engine-in-2-XL.jpg

I'm happy with that. The coil wires aren't connected yet. I don't want to mess with them until the firewall and engine are set absolutely solid on the chassis frame... it can wait a couple of days.

I'm now making CORRECT lights from clear sprue as we speak...

bestest,
M.

Very nice work!!:thumbsup:

Excellent progress! Bravo!!
Love the interior.
How you make the rear headlight. What is this clear rod, which you started?

Thanks, guys... George, I started with some clear runner/sprue from a Tamiya Alfa Giulietta kit, which just happened to be the right diameter.

And after quite some work sanding and shaping, drilling holes in the back end, BMF and the finishing touch in the form of fuse wire circles for the light bases, here we are:

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-CDzFPtF/0/XL/rear-lights-XL.jpg

Not the greatest picture, but you get the idea.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-Zf9Rbvr/0/XL/ockup-with-wheels-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-BpTcJKZ/0/XL/mockup-with-wheels-2-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-FrJqtjp/0/XL/mockup-with-wheels-3-XL.jpg

All very much mocked up, so don't worry too much about the ride height, but I think I'm happy with these Aoshima wheels...

Still battling with the windscreen. That has to be done before we can progress the BMFing on the body and make a dash for the finish line...

bestest,
M.

For those as are interested, these are the decals in my kit:

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-wqsxTc5/0/XL/3500GT-decals-XL.jpg

Mine is a pure Monogram-branded and styled box, but interesting that the decals are Revell AG, eh? I have no idea whether they are the originals, or if they were "acquired" from another boxing by the previous owner of this kit...

bestest,
M.

Great work! Interesting that the decals say both monogram & revell. I'd understand if it were a Testors kit as they don't produce any of their own kits...

Thanks!

Lengthy session with the BMF now completed, thanks goodness, not to mention messing about with windscreen blanks. I'm getting there with one, I think...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-sXZmD9j/0/XL/bmf-on-higher-angle-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-SBWc6Vj/0/XL/bmf-on-front-view-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-cghXFGz/0/XL/bmf-on-back-view-XL.jpg

None of the working parts are fixed with hinges yet. I'm thinking that I won't glue the windscreen and rear window in place until I've done all the flexing of the body I need to get the interior in -- I suspect they'll just pop out again if I glue them in place...

bestest,
M.

A couple of moments of truth today...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-CH3dNqn/0/XL/doors-open-XL.jpg

After leaving the hinge bearings to set very solidly, it seems that it IS possible to open them and close them again. If you're ever doing something like this, I recommend using silicone "plastic parts grease" from the local mountain bike shop to protect the pins and sockets. It helps them move more easily, but also, and more importantly, stops whatever glue you are using leaking into places that it shouldn't sticking things permanently... My tube cost 8 quid or so, but will last my entire modelling career and well into the afterlife...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-ccCj58D/0/XL/headliner-XL.jpg

Not the most beautiful modelling ever, but from a normal angle and distance this will look fine, I reckon. The sun visors are smoked glass on the real thing -- I just painted them with Tamiya "Smoke". A little bit of epoxy resin makes the reading lights a bit more realistic. The mirror is stolen from a Tamiya Jag which has gone to the small-scale auto breakers yard (someone messed up the main body parts, but the lovely wire wheels are destined for an E-type build, and many of the detail parts are coming in handy elsewhere). The door handles on this Maserati will be from the same source...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-2GF9rhr/0/XL/getting-inside-in-XL.jpg

This is how you get the chassis inside the body if you've stuck the rear valance in place early in the build for painting. It kinda "scissor-folds" in. I left the doors etc taped up so they didn't flap about while I got it all in place, but opened them to make sure the interior floor had snugged down into the sockets in the chassis.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-ZmkpPsQ/0/XL/clamped-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-Kfz4Hsb/0/XL/clamped-2-XL.jpg

The front end "floats" a bit, so I've glued the tops of the engine bay sides to the body interior with some strong, flexible glue that takes a couple of hours to set. It'll fill gaps, and won't run and leak to the wrong place. I'll be able to unclamp tomorrow morning, by which time it'll be bulletproof -- I hope!

The rear axle is assembled, ready to fit when everything is set solid tomorrow.

bestest,
M.

OMG, I'm absolutely cringing at the sight of those clamps on the paint job. Hope they don't leave scars...

ianc

OMG, I'm absolutely cringing at the sight of those clamps on the paint job. Hope they don't leave scars...

ianc

I thought the same thing :uhoh:

...don't worry. They're off now. Zero's 2K clear that's been cured for the best part of two months is pretty tough. And the clamps do have soft silicone tips...

bestest,
M.

More than you want to see, maybe, but...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-fxF64gH/0/XL/all-together-3-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-98ssKdK/0/XL/all-together-5-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-LMWZWLX/0/XL/all-together-2-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-N8gL3zh/0/XL/all-together-6-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-NvPS8rd/0/XL/all-together-4-XL.jpg

...I'm REALLY pleased to have to got to this stage...

bestest,
M.

Looks good. Tamiya's acrylics would have craters in them from that!

Car is looking great!

ianc

I think this'll probably be the last WIP update:

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-gvb6qZg/0/XL/nearly-done-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-T25J6jQ/0/XL/nearly-done-3-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-kHmQSmH/0/XL/nearly-done-2-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-t2mDqp4/0/XL/nearly-done-4-XL.jpg

Just the last external details to add now.

The windscreen could be better, but it's the best _I_ can manage! Decals held up remarkably well, considering how messed up they looked at first glance. Microscale decal film, and Klear used to apply them, worked wonders!

bestest,
M.

Right, I think this is done now...

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-FFNvzQC/0/XL/underside-done-1-XL.jpg

This is all straight OOB kit detail... I think it's pretty good, especially for the vintage.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-2bjjfmm/0/XL/done-on-bench-4-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-vGNBLGk/0/XL/done-on-bench-1-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-79pbK3F/0/XL/done-on-bench-2-XL.jpg

Most of the detail parts -- wipers, door handles, internal mirror -- are from a junked Tamiya Mk II Jag kit, which I bought for spares. I shaved the kit front indicators down to a base, and used epoxy again to make a clear "glass" on each, which I then painted clear orange. It looks much better than the chromed part, I reckon.

http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-RbWhkN2/0/XL/done-on-bench-7-XL.jpg
http://cmatthewbacon.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Car-Modelling/Models-Gallery-12/i-7TVnn8W/0/XL/done-on-bench-6-XL.jpg

You gotta love those working features!

Number plates to go on, a bit of a valet, and then proper pictures in better light in the morning...

Thank you for watching. ;-)

bestest,
M.

Beautiful!!! I liked every detail. Congratulations Matt

great overall build!
something to be proud of....

As I mentioned on another forum, I have researched this car and model versions for a few years, and you will never find a more authentic, more detailed and more well-executed example of this kit anywhere. It's a stunning one-of-a-kind.

As I mentioned on another forum, I have researched this car and model versions for a few years, and you will never find a more authentic, more detailed and more well-executed example of this kit anywhere. It's a stunning one-of-a-kind.

I agree. Just a fabulous build of an ancient tool. Superb work!!