Problem after new ignition switch and shudder
olopezm
02-18-2013, 09:56 PM
Hi guys,
As I posted before, I replaced the ignition switch in my car; everything went fine (other than the key release solenoid having problems). The problem is that now I get an occasional hard to start condition; I can usually just turn the key, wait until the fuel pump stops running and start the engine, works 99% of the time but form time to time it will either take a second try or crank longer for it to start.
I don't know why, it was fine before and it just started after replacing the ignition switch. The replacement part is not OEM but is identical to the one I removed. I'm pretty sure that all connectors are tight. Any ideas on this?
My second question is related to this shudder when accelerating from a stop at around 1000 RPM's only. It will go away above that and will not be felt until coming to stop and accelerating again at 1k RPM's. I thought about bad engine mounts so I've replaced all of them passenger side, driver side, dogbone mounts and even when the vibration has diminished to almost zero, it can still be noticed.
I also had replaced a dust boot on the passenger side CV joint (inner). I asked the mechanic and he said it was fine and only needed new grease. The remaining dust covers are intact and have no cracks on them.
The exhaust has two hangers missing (the ones by the cat converter) and the rest are fine, the guy who fixed a broken pipe used some metallic straps to fix it to the body. Never had any problems after that.
It all started after a "shop" fixed a cracked head, they took the entire engine out looking for cracks. Was rebuilt and reinstalled, and now I have this shudder!
What am I missing? There are no noises that could point to a cracked flywheel.
Thanks in advance,
Oscar.
As I posted before, I replaced the ignition switch in my car; everything went fine (other than the key release solenoid having problems). The problem is that now I get an occasional hard to start condition; I can usually just turn the key, wait until the fuel pump stops running and start the engine, works 99% of the time but form time to time it will either take a second try or crank longer for it to start.
I don't know why, it was fine before and it just started after replacing the ignition switch. The replacement part is not OEM but is identical to the one I removed. I'm pretty sure that all connectors are tight. Any ideas on this?
My second question is related to this shudder when accelerating from a stop at around 1000 RPM's only. It will go away above that and will not be felt until coming to stop and accelerating again at 1k RPM's. I thought about bad engine mounts so I've replaced all of them passenger side, driver side, dogbone mounts and even when the vibration has diminished to almost zero, it can still be noticed.
I also had replaced a dust boot on the passenger side CV joint (inner). I asked the mechanic and he said it was fine and only needed new grease. The remaining dust covers are intact and have no cracks on them.
The exhaust has two hangers missing (the ones by the cat converter) and the rest are fine, the guy who fixed a broken pipe used some metallic straps to fix it to the body. Never had any problems after that.
It all started after a "shop" fixed a cracked head, they took the entire engine out looking for cracks. Was rebuilt and reinstalled, and now I have this shudder!
What am I missing? There are no noises that could point to a cracked flywheel.
Thanks in advance,
Oscar.
olopezm
07-09-2013, 06:55 PM
Thought I would update this, in case someone else has the same shudder. It turned out to be a bad out-of-the-box right side engine mount replacement. I had replaced all of the mounts and nothing seemed to fix it; it was until I pinpointed the noise that one of the mounts had developed that realized it was the source of the problem. After installing a new replacement, the problem has gone away.
Oscar.
Oscar.
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