Front wheel stud PN? The longer ones I got have the wrong spline.

1. Purchased fresh ARPs that are slightly longer front/rear. Got one of the front hubs disassembled and found that the knurl (splines) on the ones that were on the car are narrower and longer vs. the ones I got for it. Are there longer studs that will work with these hubs?

http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/314229_4827102046672_1569973405_n.jpg

It looks like the correct ARPs are the ones linked below. There are no other ones that come up with the same knurl diameter and length. I measured with my calipers to verify.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7706/overview/

Knurl Diameter - 0.568"
Knurl Lenth - 0.710"
Underhead Length - 2.970"
Thread - 1/2 x 20 RH

2. Any issues using common sense and a mini-sledge to get the studs out? I've never dealt with an aluminum hub like this. I put it on a towel on my concrete garage floor, set the hub on the towel/floor, and hit the studs moderately to get them dislodged and out.

I've always done the same thing with my Corvette hubs which are sealed hub/bearing assemblies. They're also steel. For those you support the flange in your vise and hammer away.
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/421747_2921081517350_541407893_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/407083_2921966059463_1834511386_n.jpg

These Panoz hubs don't have a flat back edge to support in my vise. The lip that locates the rotor hat would get destroyed. Just want to ensure I'm not risking bending/warping the entire hub. I went slow and got one done and everything seems fine.

Brian,
I've usually done something similar as you and had no problems with steel hubs. I'm thinking it more likely that damage could happen with an aluminum hub. Could a press be used with a support for the hub around it's radius near the studs? Something like a 2 or 3 inch section of metal pipe of the appropriate diameter and thickness.

Mike

1. I don't have a press, something I eventually need to get. Never bothered because all too often people screw up their hubs pressing in studs cockeyed vs. pulling them in with a spare lug and a large wrench.

2. It'd take some fancy pieces to support the backside of the hub (it's an odd shape). You'd probably have to fashion a metal tube the size of the rotor hat (8 or 9 inches) to support the outer perimeter.

Considering I already did the one I'll just go ahead and do the other. Just wanted to see if it was some huge "no-no" or common knowledge to not use this method on aluminum hubs.

If it makes any difference I re-fit the hub to the rotor after removing the studs and everything lines up flush.

FWIW- I have a short handled four pound sledge that I've always used for stud removal and replacement. I normally only have to use one good whack and the studs come out. To reinstall, I have an old 3/4 drive, 1.5 inch, deep well socket. I lightly tap the studs in to get the knurl started, then place the old socket on the threaded side of the stud so I have something it hit against. I then only need 1 or 2 good strikes and its seated. Every so often I might find one that wasn't fully seated when I torque the wheels, but it normally only takes 1/2 a turn to correct. I personally have never been a fan of using an impact and a nut to pull the stud through. I think it stresses the threads too much. But that's me...

I never use an impact... I use a few washers, an old lug put on backwards, and a big ass wrench.