'00 Gp will crank but not start....
rubberman
01-07-2013, 09:32 AM
When i turn the key forward i do hear the fuel pump kick on. The car cranks and acts like its gonna start but wont. I do not get a security light and the battery is only a couple months old. Could it be a crank position sensor? i did check for codes which the scanner isnt showing no codes.
aleekat
01-07-2013, 09:44 AM
Check for spark before you throw parts at it. Any codes? Just because no CEL doesn't mean no codes.
rubberman
01-07-2013, 09:52 AM
And to test for spark I would pull plug and ground threads against block while someone starts that car? Right?
Tech II
01-07-2013, 10:13 AM
When i turn the key forward i do hear the fuel pump kick on.
You may hear the fuel pump come on, but that doesn't mean you have fuel pressure......if the temp is above freezing, try spraying carb cleaner into the intake....if it starts and runs as long as you spray(you need someone to crank the vehicle), you have a fuel delivery problem.....either not enough pressure or the injectors are not firing(could be disabled by the SECURITY system)....
The car cranks and acts like its gonna start but wont. I do not get a security light
What does that mean? If you have the Passkey system, turning the key to on, the SECURITY light should come on for 3 seconds and then go out......If you have the Passlock system, the light comes on and stays on until the vehicl starts.....
and the battery is only a couple months old. Could it be a crank position sensor? i did check for codes which the scanner isnt showing no codes.
If you have no spark, yes it could be the crank sensor, ICM, coil(s), etc. Could also be a bad MAF, disconnect it and try to start the vehicle....also pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator and check for fuel in the line....
Also most scanners/code readers only read "P" codes......they don't read "U" or "B" codes......
So if the vehicle doesn't start by disconnecting the MAF, or by spraying carb cleaner into the intake, then check for spark......Spark testers are fairly cheap, and less chance of getting "zapped" by grounding a spark plug...
You may hear the fuel pump come on, but that doesn't mean you have fuel pressure......if the temp is above freezing, try spraying carb cleaner into the intake....if it starts and runs as long as you spray(you need someone to crank the vehicle), you have a fuel delivery problem.....either not enough pressure or the injectors are not firing(could be disabled by the SECURITY system)....
The car cranks and acts like its gonna start but wont. I do not get a security light
What does that mean? If you have the Passkey system, turning the key to on, the SECURITY light should come on for 3 seconds and then go out......If you have the Passlock system, the light comes on and stays on until the vehicl starts.....
and the battery is only a couple months old. Could it be a crank position sensor? i did check for codes which the scanner isnt showing no codes.
If you have no spark, yes it could be the crank sensor, ICM, coil(s), etc. Could also be a bad MAF, disconnect it and try to start the vehicle....also pull the vac line off the fuel pressure regulator and check for fuel in the line....
Also most scanners/code readers only read "P" codes......they don't read "U" or "B" codes......
So if the vehicle doesn't start by disconnecting the MAF, or by spraying carb cleaner into the intake, then check for spark......Spark testers are fairly cheap, and less chance of getting "zapped" by grounding a spark plug...
rubberman
01-07-2013, 11:49 AM
I would think its getting fuel since it smells flooded with all the cranking i did.
rubberman
01-07-2013, 03:03 PM
update:
ok i checked the ignition fuse 1 and 2 which were both good. I swapped the ignition relay with cooling fan2 relay since they were the same and it started up. cooling fan1 is moving and cooling fan2 isnt so im assuming its a bad relay.
well i swapped them back and it still starts up. what could it be?
ok i checked the ignition fuse 1 and 2 which were both good. I swapped the ignition relay with cooling fan2 relay since they were the same and it started up. cooling fan1 is moving and cooling fan2 isnt so im assuming its a bad relay.
well i swapped them back and it still starts up. what could it be?
aleekat
01-07-2013, 03:13 PM
Cooling fan runs with a/c or defrost on. Cooling 2 only triggers when rad gets hot. You may have bad wiring/socket for the relay. Swapping out gave it better contact?
rubberman
01-07-2013, 03:37 PM
runs with either relay. and it idles and revs fine. no rough idle.
here are some info pulled from my scanner:
ABSLT TPS 0.4%
eng rpms 742
calc load 2.4%
MAF (lb/m) 0.57
MAP ("hg) 9.7
IAT 63`
ign advance 21.5`
ST FTRM1 -2.3% to 3.9%
LT FTRM1 -1.6% to 0.8%
fuel system1 - closed
O2S11 - .085v to .845v
ST FTRM11 -2.3% to 0.8%
O2S12 .760 to .145%
here are some info pulled from my scanner:
ABSLT TPS 0.4%
eng rpms 742
calc load 2.4%
MAF (lb/m) 0.57
MAP ("hg) 9.7
IAT 63`
ign advance 21.5`
ST FTRM1 -2.3% to 3.9%
LT FTRM1 -1.6% to 0.8%
fuel system1 - closed
O2S11 - .085v to .845v
ST FTRM11 -2.3% to 0.8%
O2S12 .760 to .145%
Tech II
01-08-2013, 12:34 PM
You can't diagnose a car when it starts, only when it doesn't......
Post #4.....
Post #4.....
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026
