Windshield install issues

Need your help (again)

So I purchased a new (glass) windshield for the car. The first thing I noticed was that it wasn't going to go in with the rubber gasket/seal around it. I took the gasket/trim/seal off the glass and it barely fit on the top and sides, but it slipped in. Then I noticed the bottom. While the lower corners seem in place, there is a 3/4" to 1" gap between the middle/bottom of the glass and the body, as if the glass has a different contour on the bottom then the body/roof shell (Am I making any sense?)

When I got the car, the windshield was cracked. I pulled it, then removed the roof shell for painting and completely reinstalled it without the windshield. My first thoughts are I should loosen all the roof mounting bolts and see if I can reshape the lower mounting point (contour) for the windshield? If that doesn't work, build a brace between the dash panel and the lower windshieldsurface of the roof shell (Like I see on some of the GTS cars) and try to forcibly re-contour it?? Is there an easy fix that is escaping my limited experience with these cars?

As always, any advice is appreciated

Are you sure you got the right windshield. I can't remember for sure but I think its a '98 Mustang convertible??

Should be a drop in fit. Use lots of thick .25-.5" weather strip to support it. Key with glass is a "snug fit" not too tight or the chasis flex will crack it first run.

Other option is Lexan, but you have to make center supports. I got the last Lexan from Griggs Racing in Sonoma CA.

cheers,
Kevin
'08 GT3 Cup
GTS for sale

Are you sure you got the right windshield. I can't remember for sure but I think its a '98 Mustang convertible??

Should be a drop in fit. Use lots of thick .25-.5" weather strip to support it. Key with glass is a "snug fit" not too tight or the chasis flex will crack it first run.

Other option is Lexan, but you have to make center supports. I got the last Lexan from Griggs Racing in Sonoma CA.

cheers,
Kevin
'08 GT3 Cup
GTS for sale

All 94-98 windshields are identical, and I checked the part# on the glass to make sure. I considered Lexan. (FYI- Five Star racing bodies makes pre-fabed braces that work well) I opted for glass for mar and scratch resistance. At Sebring, we are normally the last run-group of the day. Driving into turn #17 @ 150+MPH directly into the sun could be a disaster with a scratched and/or dirty windshield, IMO. To me, the weight savings between glass and lexan is only a 1-2 pounds, Could be more I suppose,

I haven't even considered sealing the windshield yet, but I'm certain the gap I have would be too large. I have the skill and experience to cut and reshape the lower ledge for the windshield, but I'd prefer to find a simpler/easier solution, especially since the roof shell is already painted. I was curious if what I've encountered was a common problem with a tried and tested solution.

Well that is interesting. We have 3 (2 GTS, 1 GTRA) and all have been easy drop in windshield replacements. Basically lay down some foam weather strip and lay the windshield down. Then gently tighten the mounting clip.

Makes me wonder if something was customized or repaired?

sucks.

Kevin

I'm wondering if installing the roof without the glass in it was a mistake. In doing so, could I have placed it in a bind that somehow that changed the contour of the lower part of the windshield frame. I dunno. I'm gonna try loosening the bolts that hold the forward section to the dash/firewall and see if it moves. Keep yall posted.

I dont know if the pics are better than my explanation, but here are two.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb222/roval41/2012-12-14_15-49-07_319.jpg
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb222/roval41/2012-12-14_15-49-25_947.jpg

I dont know if the pics are better than my explanation, but here are two.



When I first got my car I cracked the screen on my first track day after sliding over some ripple strips. The resulting shower of shards of glass from the screen cracks quickly convinced me that lexan was a far safer option.

I had a local aircraft shop make me up 2 screens. 3 years later we are still on the same screen and we are running races up to 6 hours long pasing traffic all the time so lots of debris floating around.

I did fab up a chrome moly center support and 2 side supports for the screen. Only trick is to pick a thickness that will withstand the top speed of your local track. Otherwise would not look at glass for any reason.

Kel.

PS - I am sure the reason my glass screen cracked was due to pre loading due to poor fit. You may well be onto it regards unbuttoning the roof but you will need to be careful that you do not preload the screen when you zip everything back up again. Another trick is to make sure that no metal edges are touching the glass when it is installed as these will be hardpoints that will be crack initiation points.

Thanks to all who responded

Yeah, I think I'm going to use my new windshield (or as they say down under; screen :grinyes:) as a template and make one out of lexan. I stared at it for a while last night and fixing the contour of the roof shell would be major surgery. I'm sure what I spent on the windshield will not be the last money that will be wasted on a failed attempt. Anybody need a brand new windshield?

How if the lower section of your roof supported on the interior side? I've seen a few different methods on these cars from little "posts" like our car has to an aluminum panel/bracket that spans the entire cowl. If yours has the little posts like ours has it may just be sagging in the middle. FWIW I'm putting lexan in our car.

Here's what ours looked like as I was taking it all apart... 3 stud things and lots of rigged crap.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e158/cvbowers/Panoz%20Pics/PanozInterior.jpg

Vs. the later GTS cars...

http://allcarcentral.com/pixpano13.jpg

~Brian

Buy the bent "fit" piece from PAD. Its cheap and works great. I also braced the outer 2 lower windshield mounting holes with a heavy gauge metal bent to fit. I used those mounts and braced the upper mounts to the roll cage (welded them in place) to use for windshield bars to resist the 190MPH Daytona wind force.

Buy the bent "fit" piece from PAD. Its cheap and works great.
What part are you referring to?

The cowling support that you show in your picture with the hole in the center and the black molding on the top edge.

Cool so I can buy that from PAD and bolt or rivet it in place?

YES...I would bolt it in since drilling out the rivets will not be easy.