Water pump 6.0 2005

Yes, it's really a "Yukon". 6.0 Yukon XL Denali 1500 is a different part number than 6.0 Yukon XL 1500, CarQuest guy had them side by side with my original one, couldn't see any difference. And he didn't have the rubber gasket that goes around the thermostat either (thermostat goes into the water pump itself, so must be transfered over or a new one purchased). Yes, a standard type O-ring and a standard type gasket came with the water pump, but not the rubber gasket I needed, see below, and I was too timid/chicken/smart to try to make do with the traditional gasket only. When CarQuest told me yesterday that it wasn't generally available, I took that as fact, and it's not so. But how would I know if there was an update from GM (like happened on my old mechanical fuel pump for the V6 in my 1984 Cherokee, where GM or someone finally engineered a thicker and square cross section O-ring to stop the leakage there, former O-ring just looked like it wasn't thick enough to squish).

First, before starting, just with plastic cover air intake off.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Cussboy/DSC03272.jpg

Here's the the sucky GM hose clamps. Apparently there's a hook so they can be installed "open" without a tool, but this prevented me from opening it enough to slide the lower radiator hose off, and I cut my finger because of that (no photo of the cut).
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Cussboy/DSC03278.jpg

This (to me) shows the leakage.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Cussboy/DSC03276.jpg

The engine with the water pump off.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Cussboy/DSC03274.jpg

These are the parts I took off after the air intake. You can see the thermostat with its special rubber gasket/slotted O-ring.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Cussboy/DSC03273.jpg

Here's that special rubber O-ring/gasket; it's slotted to it fits snug around the thermostat rim. There's a tang for indexing this in the water outlet pipe, the tang lines up with the little flex pin/bleed pin.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Cussboy/DSC03280.jpg

New water pump bolted on, tensioner, thermostat, and water outlet not yet installed. see that the thermostat bolts into the water pump, unlike engines I've seen before.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Cussboy/DSC03277.jpg

Anyway, one week later, two tow jobs, no leaks !!!

And here's the Weber grill that was given to me, and I cut its legs shorter to make it into a portable backyard fire pit ($2.50 for set of rubber "feet" for the aluminum tubes). Mrs. Cusser says they are romantic, and we have a real one up north, so now we have one here.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/Cussboy/DSC03267.jpg

very good pictures. nice work.

your water pump/thermostat is different from my 5.3L 2000 engine. not that much but not the same.

the water pump gaskets do leak. the pump is with lots of force working on it so the mounting bolts need be torqued every year to keep it secure to the torque spec.

the GM clamps are a pain to remove but they work perfectly .

nows the time to get your vehicles in shape for the hot weather season.

I noticed your coolant had that gray color to it. I hope you use the distilled water to reduce that metal corrosion.

I also saw that the ac compressor belt had cracks. bettter change that out.

grass in AZ ???? you must be doing quite well .

That last picture is my favorite. I've got a nice tool I think it was made by Am-Pro that makes those clamps a breeze. It's a pair of handles like pliers attached to a sheathed cable thats attached to a sliding clamp that grabs the clamp tangs. It spreads the clamp and locks it open when you squeeze the handles. Available in better parts stores and tool trucks. Really great for remote locations where you cant get a tool into let alone manipulate it.
I've bought that t/stat O ring both separate and with the t/stat. Check other stores,brands.
Clean up those backside idler pulleys of any dirt and old belt rubber. Like mentioned by j cAT, flush the cooling system good and use the pre mixed 50/50 coolant or use distilled water with any coolant you mix up. If you're using DexCool, mix with distilled.
I dont see any beer bottles in the last shot. Guess you weren't done yet!

We had wine that evening by the fire, not beer. I've got 1100 SF of grass in the back yard. I do OK, much helped by doing my own maintenance and repairs on vehicles and 2 homes.

I used purchased 50/50 coolant, Peak, stated "For all Vehicles and Makes", bought at Pep Boys sale for $1 per gallon day after Thanksgiving. That was green, and there was a little pink fluid left in the system. So zero tap water was added.

My water pump bolts were not loose. I used blue Loctite on them anyway: that is damn good at keeping things tight, and also will prevent corrosion.

Like I said, water pump did not come with the same gasket as mine had, but AutoZone stocked those.

The AC compressor belt can be replaced separately on this so not a big deal, I'll take a look at that once spring gets here. I did replace the serpentine belt and the lower radiator hose as precautions.

I do not agree with the compatible type of coolant.

unless the container states GM APPROVED DEXCOOL it is not dexcool.

the type you purchased should not have been used as it is not recommended / approved for your vehicle by GM.

I have found that the premixed coolant is a little low on the coolant and more on the water. not really 50%.

The water pump bolts do not unscrew. the bolts / gaskets change size which allows the coolant to start weeping out when hot [bolts expand].

the bolts in my opinion are a little too small to support that type water pump.

the ac belt had plenty of large cracks. when summer comes I guess you can change it in your air conditioned garage . I never seen a belt that damaged on a vehicle. I guess when its 120 deg f out your way the belt gets worked hard.

I do not agree with the compatible type of coolant.
unless the container states GM APPROVED DEXCOOL it is not dexcool.
the type you purchased should not have been used as it is not recommended / approved for your vehicle by GM.

I have found that the premixed coolant is a little low on the coolant and more on the water. not really 50%.

Peak's Information: "PEAK Long Life® 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze & Coolant
Features a Long Life coolant technology that is compatible for use in all automobiles and light-duty trucks, regardless of make, model, year or original antifreeze color. Its inhibitors provide maximum cooling system protection against damaging rust and corrosion.
•Compatible for use in all automobiles and light-duty trucks"

Manufacturers would LOVE if everyone used ONLY their parts and accessories. It's called marketing ploy. GM steel, aluminum, etc. not any different from the other manufacturers. Tell me about the quality of GM dashboard gauges, their wipers of the 1990s where they did only the minimum recall, stuff like that.


the ac belt had plenty of large cracks. when summer comes I guess you can change it in your air conditioned garage . I never seen a belt that damaged on a vehicle. I guess when its 120 deg f out your way the belt gets worked hard.

I'll look at that AC belt before summer, maybe even this week. Yes, belts take a beating here in the Arizona heat, batteries too, 2 years is good battery life here.

By the way, I don't have an air-conditioned garage, or any cooling in it. Summer temperatures inside the garage can readily reach 130 F. But that's better than in the sun outside !!!

Peak's Information: "PEAK Long Life® 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze & Coolant
Features a Long Life coolant technology that is compatible for use in all automobiles and light-duty trucks, regardless of make, model, year or original antifreeze color. Its inhibitors provide maximum cooling system protection against damaging rust and corrosion.
•Compatible for use in all automobiles and light-duty trucks"

Manufacturers would LOVE if everyone used ONLY their parts and accessories. It's called marketing ploy. GM steel, aluminum, etc. not any different from the other manufacturers. Tell me about the quality of GM dashboard gauges, their wipers of the 1990s where they did only the minimum recall, stuff like that.


I'll look at that AC belt before summer, maybe even this week. Yes, belts take a beating here in the Arizona heat, batteries too, 2 years is good battery life here.

By the way, I don't have an air-conditioned garage, or any cooling in it. Summer temperatures inside the garage can readily reach 130 F. But that's better than in the sun outside !!!

the GM spec is required to secure your warrantee. the vehicle you have this is not an issue , because the damaged created by the use of non GM approved coolant will be your problem.

you buy these products made by non GM manufactures. even prestone now has the GM approved dexcool.

when you purchase your new gm vehicle ,better read the owners manual and use the new oils required by GM or you will not be covered when the engine starts to fail. this is now a DEXOS TYPE OF OIL. mobil 1 now has this available says right on the front label GM dexos approved.

GM is not the only manufacturer that has special spec oils/fluids.

Toyota avalon 2005 must use a special transmission fluid. this fluid works great for 150,ooomi. owners have found this to be correct. no filters or wear materials in the design BUT you must use this special fluid.

this same vehicle also requires a special EXTRA long life coolant. this is very much the same as dexcool but has some sort of organic material in it to keep the coolant stabil.

here is a site for you to read .this has info about the DEXOS engine oils and also about GM approval and why these oils are needed to protect these newly designed engines with exotic internal controls.

http://www.gmdexos.com/dexostmlicensing.html


you don't drink wine in the summer ? too hot for me when I go out your way . this summer I believe we will be going out to scottsdale / vegas.

the GM spec is required to secure your warrantee.

Yes. My guess it's a marketing ploy because auto manufacturers cannot scare buyers any longer that service from a non-dealership will void their warranty. All "100%" coolants are at least 95% ethylene glycol (some "environmental" ones are 95% propylene glycol). Halve that for the 50/50 mixes. Most modern coolants contain stuff like potassium 2-ethylhexanoate as inhibitor, that's what the Chevron Dexcool MSDS sheet lists; that's a sodium soap. And guess what: I'm in the soap analysis business, think I'll see take in some sample and assay it to see which organic acid is in the Peak; their MSDS states proprietary organic acid technology (soap is neutralized fatty acid), so may be exactly the same as the DexCool. Some brands like Ashland MSDS list 2-ethylhexanoic acid and potassium hydroxide, which makes, guess what: potassium 2-ethylhexanoate. Very few modern coolants contain silicates or phosphates like in the old days.

Thanks for pointing out about the AC belt, didn't pay much attention to that before, wanted to get that thing running. I looked tonight, definitely needs to be replaced, might even be the original !!! And local O'Reillys stocks Gates belt in that size.

Most modern coolants contain stuff like potassium 2-ethylhexanoate as inhibitor, that's what the Chevron Dexcool MSDS sheet lists; that's a sodium soap. And guess what: I'm in the soap analysis business, think I'll see take in some sample and assay it to see which organic acid is in the Peak; their MSDS states proprietary organic acid technology (soap is neutralized fatty acid), so may be exactly the same as the DexCool. Some brands like Ashland MSDS list 2-ethylhexanoic acid and potassium hydroxide, which makes - guess what: potassium 2-ethylhexanoate. Very few modern coolants contain silicates or phosphates like in the old days.

j cAT - Had some time today, brought in a sample of my Peak 50/50 coolant detailed earlier in this thread, which stated "For all Vehicles and Makes" and looked at it in the lab. It was about 5% solids, after the water and ethylene glycol had been driven off. FTIR of those solids indicated a soap, and gas chromatography interfaced with mass spectrometry identified the soap as being primarily from 2-ethyl hexanoic acid. So that means the same as genuine DexCool. So that's proof positive. But one can't call it DexCool unless one pays the licensing charge, like only Kimberly-Clark can legally call their tissues "Kleenex".

By the way, those old-style coolants which contain silicates and phosphates are too alkaline for aluminum parts, why they're no longer used in modern engines.

j cAT - Had some time today, brought in a sample of my Peak 50/50 coolant detailed earlier in this thread, which stated "For all Vehicles and Makes" and looked at it in the lab. It was about 5% solids, after the water and ethylene glycol had been driven off. FTIR of those solids indicated a soap, and gas chromatography interfaced with mass spectrometry identified the soap as being primarily from 2-ethyl hexanoic acid. So that means the same as genuine DexCool. So that's proof positive. But one can't call it DexCool unless one pays the licensing charge, like only Kimberly-Clark can legally call their tissues "Kleenex".

By the way, those old-style coolants which contain silicates and phosphates are too alkaline for aluminum parts, why they're no longer used in modern engines.

true about the silicates out of coolant/antifreeze in todays market.

with your ability to run tests on these coolants content get some dexcool and run it threw the test. compare the results. very interesting stuff.

GM must be getting a good amount of fees from this as a marketing gain.

with your ability to run tests on these coolants content get some dexcool and run it through the test. compare the results. very interesting stuff.

Yes, would be interesting. We oftentimes run side-by-side comparisons, very useful.

I've also used 3-minute FTIR assay to tell whether the oil supplied in the rebuilt compressor for my '88 Mazda truck was the correct type for R-12 refrigerant, but it wasn't. So I had to drain that, then flush a few times before I could add the correct amount of the right oil.

A few months later my co-worker bought a rebuilt compressor for his 1990 Mazda Protege (also R-12) and the test showed his DID have the correct type of oil.

GM must be getting a good amount of fees from this as a marketing gain.

Sure, and they advertise "keep your GM all GM", it's big bucks. My Frontier trucks (1998 and 2004) even have proprietary speaker mounts and wire harnesses to try to get folks to buy Nissan-brand replacements. It's a dirty business. Glad I work in the soap and detergent business, we are - by definition - "cleaner" !!!

Yes, would be interesting. We oftentimes run side-by-side comparisons, very useful.

I've also used 3-minute FTIR assay to tell whether the oil supplied in the rebuilt compressor for my '88 Mazda truck was the correct type for R-12 refrigerant, but it wasn't. So I had to drain that, then flush a few times before I could add the correct amount of the right oil.

A few months later my co-worker bought a rebuilt compressor for his 1990 Mazda Protege (also R-12) and the test showed his DID have the correct type of oil.



Sure, and they advertise "keep your GM all GM", it's big bucks. My Frontier trucks (1998 and 2004) even have proprietary speaker mounts and wire harnesses to try to get folks to buy Nissan-brand replacements. It's a dirty business. Glad I work in the soap and detergent business, we are - by definition - "cleaner" !!!

with R12 you need mineral refrigerent oil. the use of the conversion oils or pag oils are not to be used. I found out that around here , it is not carried in the auto repair stores . It is only available at the refrigeration suppliers.

with the adding of R134 to a R12 designed system best clean out the entire system replace the filter dryer remove compressor then add the proper amount of conversion refrigerent oil.

one mistake many make is with an OEM R134 designed system you must use mineral based refrigerent oil on all those seals O rings.

This is because PAG oil reacts to the mositure , which causes leaks to occur.

a side by side test would be good . also on the premixed check the freeze point.

with R12 you need mineral refrigerent oil. the use of the conversion oils or pag oils are not to be used.

Yep, I used mineral type for R-12. Also, we have two large Internet AC parts suppliers here in Phoenix.


with the adding of R134 to a R12 designed system best clean out the entire system replace the filter dryer remove compressor then add the proper amount of conversion refrigerent oil.

Agree. But I'm not a huge fan of converting to R134a, maybe because I'm in Arizona, and we need all the cooling the system was designed for, and it was designed for R-12. Plus, cost of R134a is rising, and I still have stash of R-12 bought for $1 - $2 a can.

Yep, I used mineral type for R-12. Also, we have two large Internet AC parts suppliers here in Phoenix.




Agree. But I'm not a huge fan of converting to R134a, maybe because I'm in Arizona, and we need all the cooling the system was designed for, and it was designed for R-12. Plus, cost of R134a is rising, and I still have stash of R-12 bought for $1 - $2 a can.

I have some R12 myself . have a full case of the 12 oz cans. I payed about 50.oo for the case. since I did lots of much larger R22 cooling units I had all that info about the price increases due to the R12 from being produced. that was a long time ago .

the converting to r134 from R12 you can get away with it here up in new england . where you live you need the full advantage of the R12 which works much better than any R134 I ever used especially with the high humidity here. the coil spacing is very close with R134. the condensating water reduces the air cooling and mositure removal.

In the summer you get some days with the high humidity , at least the temps with that are not around 120.

Update:

I hope you use the distilled water to reduce metal corrosion.

Yes; I can get unlimited supply of deionized water here at work, we make pharmaceutical products so have cGMP quality ion-free and organic-free water.

I also saw that the ac compressor belt had cracks. better change that out.


I'll look at that AC belt before summer, maybe even this week. Yes, belts take a beating here in the Arizona heat.

Yes, I installed a new AC belt soon after the posting, very straightforward. I like having a separate AC belt too; the 2008 Mazda CX-7 (my daughter has one) has a history of its original compressor seizing up, either stalling the car immediately, or breaking the belt and doing engine damage. Mazda would warranty ony if it seized before 60K miles, no preventative replacements, and if one had 60,010 miles: screwed !!!


grass in AZ ???? you must be doing quite well .

Yes, we have 1100 SF of grass in the back yard. Mrs. Cusser puts down the winter grass each year, takes her 1.5 hours (not her flat rate). I've worked for same employer as a chemist for 40 years, and drive a 26-year-old well-maintained (by me) Mazda B2200 Cab Plus truck every day (203K), so saved a ton of $$$ by all of us not purchasing new vehicles, just repairing and maintaining them. So I'm doing just fine, both kids out of school and working, we have in addition to the 2005 Yukon my 1971 VW Convertible, the 1998 Frontier handed-back from my kids once the bought their own vehicles (bought in 2004 at 100K, now has 198K), and my future vehicle, a 2004 Frontier King Cab bought 2 years ago (91K). All except the Yukon are 4-cylinders and 5-speeds.

haven't heard from you for a while . I never made it to AZ this year. I am hoping next year I get to spend a week or so out your way .

last winter I escaped this frozen land for a month and a half down FT MYERS FLA. got a good deal on a place. walk to beach ... when I got home however I had 4 ft of snow across the driveway. should have stayed another month.