Catalytic converter E-Check

For almost a year now I have been trying to get my car (2004 Taurus) to pass the e-check. Every time I go they tell me that their computer cannot 'read' my cars catalytic converter information, and to drive the car around so that everything resets. I keep driving the car but nothing seems to change. I am SOOO frustrated because it is very important that I get plates for this car. I cannot buy any more 30 day tags. I have replaced the oxygen sensors and checked everything that I can think of. The engine light does NOT come on and the car runs great. What kinds of things could be blocking their computers from reading my catalytic converter?

It may be in your best interest to pick up an inexpensive scan tool that can monitor the "I/M Readiness" status of your car, and ideally monitor the datastream. It sounds like the Emissions Monitors are not coming up as "Ready" which could be due to a number issues, but confirming if the O2 sensors are providing readings and determining the I/M Readiness status will be good first steps. Such a scan tool could probably be acquired for less than what you spent on replacing the O2 sensors....

-Rod

OK I hooked up the scanner but I'm not sure how it helps. There were 3 LED's, one green, one yellow and one red for the I/M readiness part. The yellow one was on (see picture below). In the display the "CAT" indicator was flashing. The only indicator that wasn't on was the HCA indicator, and I think that's because the tester was never able to get to it because of the flashing CAT. The closest thing to a "code" was P1000. So what does this tell me?

Does that scan tool have a datastream mode where you can actually monitor sensor values while the car is running? What you displayed above confirms that you car has not completed the emissions readiness tests, basically a "Drive Cycle" was not able to complete. If you've had the car on the highway and driven several miles since the codes were last cleared, there's apparently some reason the drive cycle is unable to complete and you will probably need the datastream mode to help identify why.

If you've recently cleared the diagnostic codes, let us know and we'll be able to post the steps that should be able to get the Drive Cycle complete. Searching the Internet will likely also yield what it takes to complete the 2004 Ford Drive Cycle. Of course the steps do require some highway driving, I'm not sure if you're legally able to put this car on the roads or not.

-Rod

What you displayed above confirms that you car has not completed the emissions readiness tests, basically a "Drive Cycle" was not able to complete.
Yes but why? This all started back in March. Since then I have driven the car both in the city AND on the freeway. Surly the drive cycle should have completed many times over by now. I tried to find the 2004 drive cycle for the Taurus but all I could find was the 2001. I'm sure it's similar to the 2004 but according to the 2001 information I have completed many drive cycles. It is just so frustrating that nothings reseting.


If you've recently cleared the diagnostic codes, let us know and we'll be able to post the steps that should be able to get the Drive Cycle complete.
I was told not to clear the codes and not to disconnect the battery or I would basically be starting from square one all over again. I'm wondering if that might be a good thing in this case because obviously something is wrong and not resetting as it should.

When the bottom oxygen sensor was replaced it had to be moved over one inch because the old sensor was rusted/welded onto the exhaust pipe. Would that be causing any of this? It's mounted correctly (had to buy a special fitting) but I'm at a loss for why the catalyst section of the test won't reset, so I'm clutching at straws.

I'm not sure if you're legally able to put this car on the roads or not.
I have around one more week to drive the car before the final 30 day tag expires. This is one of the reasons why I'm starting to panic.

When the bottom oxygen sensor was replaced it had to be moved over one inch because the old sensor was rusted/welded onto the exhaust pipe. Would that be causing any of this?

It could be, but that's where you really need the datastream mode so you can monitor the oxygen sensor voltages while driving the car as well as the sensor heater current draws, Sensor 1 to Sensor 2 relationship, fuel trims, MAF sensor g/s readings, etc.

If you reset the codes, you'll be starting back with a P1000 code and all drive cycle monitors will be cleared/reset as well. Of course you don't really have anything to lose as that's where you are at today as well (P1000 active).

-Rod

I got a hold of the 2004 Ford service manual DVD. I am looking for where it talks about the drive cycle. Do you know what section it would typically be under, or do you know what the drive cycle is for a 2004 Taurus?